OIL RECOMMENDATION IVE NARROWED IT DOWN!

I use the VR1 although I am conscious of the fact that a slightly lower grade say 10-15 would be benificial in winter.

I have also used the Millers CSR 20/50 for quite a while. This oil is used a lot by the Tuscan racer boys as it has a good zinc content and is cheap, (about £25.00 iirc).

Penrite HPR15 fully synthetic 15W-60 every time.





Buy it here:

http://classicoils.absolutewebhosting2.co.uk/Produ...

It's the perfect viscosity, is very high quality, contains the right levels of zinc, and just compare the price with any other fully synthetic.

You'll not find a more suitable oil for the RV8 at any price, but at £30.95 the fully synthetic Penrite HPR15 from "Classic Oils" is a no-brainer.




Oh and stick one of these on too:





http://www.v8filters.co.uk/




And I also have one of these clinging firmly to it:





http://www.shopfiltermag.com/




Finally, ditch the Range Rover sump plug & leaky copper crush washer, & replace with one of these:



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DAVID-BROWN-TRACTOR-SUMP...




Its the belt & braces perfect oil change package.

• The replacement round edged sump plug wont get caught on a sleeping policeman & unwind itself, and you'll never have to buy another leaky crushable copper sump plug washer again

• The FilterMag is reusable so once you've bought it it'll last a lifetime

• The V8 filter is a Cummins Fleetguard and uses fibreglass media technology, which is well proven in the punishing diesel commercial truck world to offer far superior filtration than a traditional paper filter element, and it's only really a few quid more

• Penrite oils are absolutely first rate quality, and at this price you can have the best at average quality mineral oil prices

Best in class engine protection that needn't break the bank

thanks chaps.. looks like Penrite tick all the boxes??? even for good for 107000 mile engines? if so ill order 2 lots a v8 oil filter and a david brown sump plug

Chimpongas top man! have you got the right code for the filtermag im guessing at RA365??

so when i get home:
oil/filter change
sump plug change
coolant change
fit rear Leven drop links
clean
polish
clean
polish
clean

Thats the fella mate.

Just understand there are two strengths of FilterMag out there:

The black body weak one which is for the Gahys (SS365), and the far far stronger red body one (RA365).

Obviously you'll be wanting the red body super strong model, here's the UK importer's details, I'm sure they'll confirm by email a retailer who sells to the public:

http://www.blue-diamond.co.uk/FilterMAG/FilterMAG....

If I remember correctly the weaker black body one is normally around £30, and the far stronger red one can be a rather expensive £55-£60, but the difference in strength is nigh & day.

Both will last for the life of the car, so it's a one off expense you'll never have to repeat.

You can see the model differences here on this American website:

http://www.expeditionexchange.com/filtermag/

I bought mine from a UK Range Rover specialist in the West Country somewhere, if you do struggle finding the proper red one in the UK you can buy it here:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ftm-ra365

I've bought a few bits off Summit Racing, and delivery from the States can be very fast indeed.

Just be careful when you fit the FilterMag, slide it on from the end rather than allowing it to snap on the side of the filter.

The magnets on the red body FilterMag are bonkers strong, it sounds daft but if you let the FilterMag snap onto the filter you run the real risk of it pinching the skin on your fingers.

The result will be a rather nasty blood blister and some choice swear words

At the next oil change remove the filter & FilterMag as one unit, only remove the FilterMag from the old filter after it's off the car.

This ensures you've trapped any ferrous metals in the old filter that you'll be disposing of in an environmentally sympathetic way.

Pop the new filter on, then slide the FilterMag onto it, you may then need to slide the FiterMag around the filter body a bit to find the most favorable position.

The V8 filter itself is very long compared with other Rover V8 oil filters, it's a little tricky to get it started on the thread as it sits very close the the chassis cross tubing, but I assure you it does fit.

Remember to fill the filter with fresh engine oil before fitting and expect to get some spillage down you're sleeve.

I've fitted loads of the V8 Filters on my Chimaera with no issues, and I genuinely believe they offer better filtration than a paper element type.

Hope all this helps, Dave.

Matter of interest- have you opened up one of the filters with filter mag on it after a change and seen any metal debris? A friend of mine who designs chemical process filters for a living did say he thought the magnets did not do a lot, although the glass fibre filters where very good- he said the best combination was glassfibre and a PTFE coating, as this stops water from adhearing to the filter internals, although I cant see that being an issue in a hot engine.

I`ve done my research and Penrite is made from recycled kangaroo dung and Aborigines underpants

Penrite is a small australian company and one would anticipate that they are not able to match it with the big players when it comes to R and D. I have had a bad experience with their product and it was directly related to them not doing enough R and D. If you want to know more, pm me.
Recycled, pure synthetic, mineral......it doesnt really matter if the product performs.

Its just Daz stirring things up for ships & giggles, I know his games well

We all love him really.

Just wondering where this was going, now I Know, nowhere!

Double check your engine mounts haven't dropped slightly FFG.

My car is a 4.0 litre Serp, so with respect to filter clearances I would have thought it should be exactly the same as your Griff.

Granted, the V8 filter is a tight fit, when I first tried one I very nearly gave up on it as I couldn't get the thread to start.

Eventually I found the angle and it span on just fine, I've been through four oil changes since then, each time using the excellent V8 filter.

These days I'm so used to fitting it I can spin one on in seconds, it's an angle thing, a bit of experience, and the knowledge it will definitely fit.

Pass the filter up from below holding it in the vertical plain, when its above & clear of the chassis cross tubes rotate downwards pointing the threaded end of the filter towards the male thread on the engine.

Spin the filter clockwise, while fractionally altering the angle between it & the male thread, don't force it, when the angle is just right you'll feel it winding on the thread.

The first turn of the filter feels like its just a little tight on the thread, but don't worry your not cross threading it, it's just the far end of the filter is still just touching the cross tube.

One more turn and it spins on free as a bird, pinch it up by hand and it's job done.

In practice all of this is far easier than I've made it sound, the more of these very long filters you fit the easier it will become.

I was also initially concerned it might foul the cross tubing once installed, but after it's fully wound on the thread there are absolutely no clearance issues whatsoever even as the running engine rocks naturally on its mounts.

Hopefully all this will give other Serp owners the confidence to try the V8 filter, it is huge (which is a good thing with a filter) but it defiantly does fit a Serpentine Chimaera.

I cant see why that would be any different for a Serpentine Griffith, unless the engine mounts have gone a little soft or they're not the original ones.

Have another bash at it FFG