evans waterless coolant - anyone using?

evans waterless coolant - anyone using?

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Discussion

FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

246 months

Tuesday 15th April 2014
quotequote all
Seen this on Wheeler Dealers and as I need to replace my coolant I did some searching. Its seem a bit of a no brainer to use this stuff and appreciate its more costly but the benefits seem to outweigh the price differential. Only question is do I need the Classic Cool or Power Cool?
Don't recall seeing any posts relating to its use or hearing anyone using it.
FFG

GlynMo

1,140 posts

248 months

Tuesday 15th April 2014
quotequote all
Have a look at the scare stories here http://www.pistonheads.com/GASSING/topic.asp?h=0&a... and the threads referred to therein. I've never used it though.

FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

246 months

Tuesday 15th April 2014
quotequote all
Only issue seems to be flammability but it is flammable over 500 degrees C and I'd be concerned if the engine/exhaust are getting anywhere near that level. Surely all the electrics will have melted by then?
If glycol is flammable at the same temp then I think its a safe risk.
Why suggestion are made about running the engine hotter - it runs at what it runs at. You just need to keep an eye on the gauge and compare against "normal" operating temps.
I'll check with my insurer though first.
FFG

Ab Shocks

1,686 posts

219 months

Tuesday 15th April 2014
quotequote all
I'm now a main dealer for Evans and on Lotus and Tvr I am convinced of the benefits, no need for the race stuff on road cars and if a few people are interested it can save money because the prep fluid can be used up to 3 times thus keeping costs down.
20% intro deal for Tiv owners as well

FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

246 months

Tuesday 15th April 2014
quotequote all
Nice Derek. You should have saved that offer for the Growl but its now out there.
I've been told by Evans to go for the Power Cool. I'll need 10 litres plus 5 of the prep fluid. Its £94 delivered for 5 litres of each plus £63 for the Power Cool alone on a certain auction site. How do you compare?
The positives for me are significantly more than outweighing any combustion issue. The water usually floods out the rad which is far enough away from the exhasut to be a concern. As there is no pressure the hoses shouldn't blow and maybe the rad lasts longer as ther is no pressure and no corrosion.
FFG

GlynMo

1,140 posts

248 months

Tuesday 15th April 2014
quotequote all
FlipFlopGriff said:
I've been told by Evans to go for the Power Cool. I'll need 10 litres plus 5 of the prep fluid. Its £94 delivered for 5 litres of each plus £63 for the Power Cool alone on a certain auction site. How do you compare?
I'd be interested to know too.

RichB

51,429 posts

283 months

Tuesday 15th April 2014
quotequote all
FlipFlopGriff said:
I'll need 10 litres plus 5 of the prep fluid. FFG
I've looked at this but not gone with it (yet) but can't figure out why you only need 5ltrs of prep fluid?

spitfire4v8

3,989 posts

180 months

Tuesday 15th April 2014
quotequote all
a friend used it in a turbo tasmin race car that promptly seized its engine the very next time out .. coincidence? maybe. Just saying.

Colin RedGriff

2,525 posts

256 months

Tuesday 15th April 2014
quotequote all
I like the idea of this but my main reservation is what to do if I need to drain the system for maintenance.

I've not got a drain point on my car so if I need to drain the system I have to pull a hose off and the coolant goes everywhere. I've tried syphoning it off but there's not really a suitable place to do that either, Syphoning from the swirl tank removes some coolant but the rad is still full to the top. Syphoning from the bleed hole on the rad removes some but not all of the coolant, I also lose some coolant just undoing the bleed screw.

I think if I went down this route I'd want an easy way to drain the fluid into a container so I could re-use it. It would need to be a tap that I can attach a pipe to ideally at the bottom of the radiator, but not sure how easy that would be to do or use in practise. Otherwise one of the lower hoses that returns from the rad to the engine may be possible.

Anybody worked out the best way to do this?

FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

246 months

Tuesday 15th April 2014
quotequote all
RichB said:
've looked at this but not gone with it (yet) but can't figure out why you only need 5ltrs of prep fluid?
Rich,
I read somewhere you dont need the same amount of prep fluid but couldn't find the evidence, other than this for now:

http://www.classic-oils.net/Product-363/Products-b...

Its just holding the remaining water and crap left after draining.
FFG

FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

246 months

Tuesday 15th April 2014
quotequote all
Also:
http://evanscooling.com/products/coolants/prep-flu...
States 1 gallon of fluid needed for petrol engines. 1 gallon = 4.5 litres so 5 should be enough.
FFG

Mr Tank

5,797 posts

274 months

Tuesday 15th April 2014
quotequote all
Hi Paul

I am using Evens in my collection slowly, four of them have been converted so far and I have nothing but good things to say about it!

Yes it's expensive to start with but once you have installed it you virtually have no costs with regard to the cooling system.
You get virtually no corrosion in the cooling system, or no pressure problems.

But it will not solve any problems which you may have. You have to sort them first.

When I convert a car, I first pressure test the system to see if there are any leaks, I replace the hoses, then the rad is at least flushed out.
After that I use the prep fluid.
Once this has been done and the Evans fluid fitted all you have to do is check the levels every now and again just in case you get a leak caused by outside forces i.e. stone in the rad etc.

The system will not cause you a problem if you prep it correctly.

How good is it well its completly different to use.

For example we have it in my 350SE and by chance the header tank cap was not fitted proberly when it was checked in Feb, now if that had been the old way of doing things the water would have p _ _ _ ed out, but as the Evans fluid doesn't boil you don't get and pressure, so we ran the car like that for over 300 miles before we found the cap problem and we had not lost any fluid at all.
People ask about the heater as the car runs a little bit cooler, but it's still hot enough to keep the wife happy with the hot air from the heater.

So to me it's a no brainer, plus it saves a lot of maintance for my collection!


Andy



FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

246 months

Tuesday 15th April 2014
quotequote all
I dont have any problems with cooling, but as a precat the opening at the front means the fans come on a fair bit. Just need to change the fluid anyway and saw the TR6 on Wheeler Delaers and it seems like a good idea.
I have an ally rad so it may last a bit longer with this and they are not cheap to replace.
FFG

Ab Shocks

1,686 posts

219 months

Tuesday 15th April 2014
quotequote all
We took it on for rotary engines because they were running hotter than we would have liked but with the insulation properties or GRP I did find occasions when my Chimaera ran too hot and Evans would have helped that
FFG
I'll have a work out and drop you a PM

billy no brakes

2,675 posts

264 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
quotequote all
I have had many a discussion about Evans Waterless Coolant and some say its good some say stay away from it

I have been told

it is corrosive for some metal / rubber more so than water ?

it makes your engine run at a lot higher temperature's and that cannot be good ?

if you get a leak, just say in France you will need to carry 5 litres or drain the system and put water in, then start all over again when you get home ?

I am hopeless with mechanics but the above was pointed out to me by someone I know

I would like to know the answers to the above then I might use it

spend

12,581 posts

250 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
quotequote all
Colin RedGriff said:
I think if I went down this route I'd want an easy way to drain the fluid into a container so I could re-use it. It would need to be a tap that I can attach a pipe to ideally at the bottom of the radiator, but not sure how easy that would be to do or use in practise. Otherwise one of the lower hoses that returns from the rad to the engine may be possible.

Anybody worked out the best way to do this?
I've done this, but it took a lot of work ~ much needed as plumbed oil cooler & remote stat at the same time.

Essentially ditched swan neck & ran rad return to pump along chassis rail then across to pump, 32mm pipe with specially made 32 - 38mm long 90deg bend for water pump connection. put in a banjo just behind the front wheel (and made this the lowest point) with a small bore pipe + tap + bung to drain. So remove bung (just safety in case tap leaks) and open tap to drain. The pipe run does just fit under the brake pipe bracket whilst clearing all the steering / wishbone travel / damper, but also needed several 135deg bends to clear....

Having used it to flush & refill it works very well, but must note it was just part of a complete coolant redesign; remote bypass stat, oil / water cooler, heater plumbed under manifold & at water pump nose, bleeds from heads & header tank where coil used to be....

Pink_Floyd

900 posts

220 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
quotequote all
spend said:
it was just part of a complete coolant redesign; remote bypass stat, oil / water cooler, heater plumbed under manifold & at water pump nose
Can you give more detail on what you did, pics etc. Is it better ? Perhaps it needs a new topic rather than hijack this one.

FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

246 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
quotequote all
billy no brakes said:
I am hopeless with mechanics but the above was pointed out to me by someone I know
And TVR's are unreliable and always break down - I heard this from a chap in the pub.
FFG

FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

246 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
quotequote all
billy no brakes said:
it is corrosive for some metal / rubber more so than water ?
Which metal. Seems to be non corrosive for metals in our engines. Rubbe r- no idea.

it makes your engine run at a lot higher temperature's and that cannot be good ?
From Evans waterless coolants website:
Q. Will Evans Waterless Coolant cause my engine to run at a higher temperature?
A. No. The operating temperature of the coolant may increase slightly, however the temperature inside the engine will be more consistent

if you get a leak, just say in France you will need to carry 5 litres or drain the system and put water in, then start all over again when you get home ?
From Evans waterless coolants website:
Q. Can I add water to Evans Waterless Coolant?
A. Yes, but only in an emergency. Evans Waterless Coolant is completely miscible with Water, however once you exceed 5% the benefits of Evans Waterless Coolant are compromised. We recommend that as soon as possible you refill with Evans Waterless Coolant to regain its benefits.
Q. What is bad about water in a coolant?
1.The boiling point of water is only 100°C.
2.Because an engine operates very close to the boiling point of water,(within the engine block and cylinder head boiling actually occurs), thus causing pressure within the cooling system.
3.The boiling point of water is the failure temperature of the cooling system.
4.Water vapour (steam) has almost no thermal conductivity.
5.Water is aggressive toward cooling system metals and promotes electrolysis between dissimilar metals within the cooling system.
6.Water contains Oxygen which encourages corrosion in any cooling system.

The Evans waterless coolant site is here:
http://www.evanscoolants.com/evans_vs_water_coolan...
FFG

GlynMo

1,140 posts

248 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
quotequote all
Ab Shocks said:
We took it on for rotary engines because they were running hotter than we would have liked but with the insulation properties or GRP I did find occasions when my Chimaera ran too hot and Evans would have helped that
FFG
I'll have a work out and drop you a PM
Me too if you wouldn't mind. I'm in the south of France, so anything that can help with cooling is of interest.