Griff not starting after lay up

Griff not starting after lay up

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S3DaveP

Original Poster:

160 posts

261 months

Tuesday 15th July 2014
quotequote all
Hi looking for some advice please I have looked through the forums and have an idea but would like a sanity check please !

My 97 500 Griff not starting after lay up, I've not been well recently so its sat unused for some time, being started occasionally. The problem I have is the fuel pump is not priming, when I push the alarm button (original Meta) after turning on the ignition the fuel pump would prime and I could start it.... but not anymore I can hear a faint click from behind the dash and shortly after another from the passenger footwell it turns over but does not fire.
I am thinking it may be a fuel pump fault? it has always whined a bit.

I don't know if this has any bearing on the problem but the alarm has recently been making strange faint beeping noises when locking and unlocking, this has now stopped.

I want to get it back on the road but need it to run to get it in for MOT/service.

5.0ltr

2,761 posts

199 months

Tuesday 15th July 2014
quotequote all
Has the battery been left flat for some time? May just need alarm reset procedure.

Pete Mac

755 posts

137 months

Tuesday 15th July 2014
quotequote all
S3DaveP said:
I can hear a faint click from behind the dash and shortly after another from the passenger footwell it turns over but does not fire.
I am thinking it may be a fuel pump fault? it has always whined a bit.

I don't know if this has any bearing on the problem but the alarm has recently been making strange faint beeping noises when locking and unlocking, this has now stopped.
It sounds like the immobiliser to me. Notoriously dicky. It's worth checking out the 20A fuel pump fuse first:



My immobiliser only works on the starter motor but yours may work on the fuel pump. Suspicious the clicking from behind the dash and then footwell, where normally the fuses, relays and the alarm are normally located, could be a sticky immobiliser relay. I am not sure about your technical knowledge but hopefully checking fuse should be OK, alarm may need to go to specialist. Pete


S3DaveP

Original Poster:

160 posts

261 months

Tuesday 15th July 2014
quotequote all
Hi Guys,

Thanks for the quick replies, the battery has been on the optimate so has never gone flat, its started fine two weeks ago

The immobilser on mine cuts the starter and the fuel pump and as the it turns over I am not sure that's the issue?
I am pretty sure the fuel pump relay is activating, I need to get it out of the garage to investigate more, hopefully I will have some time tomorrow evening and a one on my sons around to help with motive power to get it out.

5.0ltr

2,761 posts

199 months

Tuesday 15th July 2014
quotequote all
Get someone to hold the square silver relays in the spaghetti as you try and start normally, they should feel them both click. Mine have gone in past whilst just parked in garage.

Oldred_V8S

3,715 posts

238 months

Tuesday 15th July 2014
quotequote all
5.0ltr said:
Get someone to hold the square silver relays in the spaghetti as you try and start normally, they should feel them both click. Mine have gone in past whilst just parked in garage.
^^ This but replace both of them together as they are linked. They don't like not being used; I have had one fail after a winter lay-up.

BlueArsedFly

51 posts

214 months

Tuesday 15th July 2014
quotequote all
5.0ltr said:
Get someone to hold the square silver relays in the spaghetti as you try and start normally, they should feel them both click. Mine have gone in past whilst just parked in garage.
I had the same problem, changed both relays (the new ones I got were brown not silver) and problem solved. They're in the loom down by the battery/ECU box

Oldred_V8S

3,715 posts

238 months

Wednesday 16th July 2014
quotequote all
BlueArsedFly said:
5.0ltr said:
Get someone to hold the square silver relays in the spaghetti as you try and start normally, they should feel them both click. Mine have gone in past whilst just parked in garage.
I had the same problem, changed both relays (the new ones I got were brown not silver) and problem solved. They're in the loom down by the battery/ECU box
They may click but could still be faulty if it is the contacts that are dirty/burnt.

Adrian@

4,309 posts

282 months

Wednesday 16th July 2014
quotequote all
If you have not changed them in your ownership ...then change them (IMHO they should be treated as service items when you first buy a Griff/Chim IF you cannot see that they have been changed in the history).
Adrian@

S3DaveP

Original Poster:

160 posts

261 months

Wednesday 16th July 2014
quotequote all
Thanks for the advice, I think I am going to change the relays even if its not the fault, where is the best place to get the correct units, I did read that some replacements give problems?

BlueArsedFly

51 posts

214 months

Wednesday 16th July 2014
quotequote all
S3DaveP said:
Thanks for the advice, I think I am going to change the relays even if its not the fault, where is the best place to get the correct units, I did read that some replacements give problems?
This looks like the one I got - you'll need two of them though:
http://www.clever-trevor.net/TVR/Parts_details/M01...


S3DaveP

Original Poster:

160 posts

261 months

Wednesday 16th July 2014
quotequote all
I have changed both relays (correct OEM Bosch ) and both are working, both click once then the fuel pump one (blue socket)clicks again but still no fuel pump priming.

I have put my voltmeter on the live output side of the relays (pin 30) and there is no power getting to the contacts, I am a bit stumped as what to do next? any ideas appreciated.

I have reset the alarm by removing the battery for a couple of mins and then re-connect but still the same

V8 GRF

7,294 posts

210 months

Wednesday 16th July 2014
quotequote all
It may be that the relay in the Alarm unit itself has failed?

Colin RedGriff

2,527 posts

257 months

Wednesday 16th July 2014
quotequote all
S3DaveP said:
I have put my voltmeter on the live output side of the relays (pin 30) and there is no power getting to the contacts, I am a bit stumped as what to do next? any ideas appreciated.
Is there power on the input pin?

S3DaveP

Original Poster:

160 posts

261 months

Wednesday 16th July 2014
quotequote all
No power to the input pin on the relays (Pin30),so no power going to the pump, ECU is sending power to the relay coils and operating the relays all ok when the ignition is on and the immobiliser is pressed.

Colin RedGriff

2,527 posts

257 months

Wednesday 16th July 2014
quotequote all
Check back to the fuse box. Is there power to the fuse (and the fuse is not blown) ?
Check the fuse is seated properly

If there is power to the fuse then you'll need to trace the cables and look for a break in the cable from the fuse box to the relay.

If there is no power to the fuse then you need to trace back from there to the battery and find the break

S3DaveP

Original Poster:

160 posts

261 months

Wednesday 16th July 2014
quotequote all
Hi Colin, are you talking about the 20A fuel pump fuse (no 9 from the right) ? if I pull this one the alarm goes off and the fuse is OK so I an guessing that there's power there.

Oldred_V8S

3,715 posts

238 months

Wednesday 16th July 2014
quotequote all
BlueArsedFly said:
S3DaveP said:
Thanks for the advice, I think I am going to change the relays even if its not the fault, where is the best place to get the correct units, I did read that some replacements give problems?
This looks like the one I got - you'll need two of them though:
http://www.clever-trevor.net/TVR/Parts_details/M01...
Eurocar parts do them 450220610 = £7.84. They were the cheapest I could find at the time.

Colin RedGriff

2,527 posts

257 months

Wednesday 16th July 2014
quotequote all
S3DaveP said:
Hi Colin, are you talking about the 20A fuel pump fuse (no 9 from the right) ? if I pull this one the alarm goes off and the fuse is OK so I an guessing that there's power there.
Yes it sounds like you have power there. If it's not reaching the relay then there must be a break somewhere between the two. Not sure if there is a fuse inline to the relay or not. You may have to pull the fuse box out and trace the cable path.

Might be worth checking the inertia switch which I believe is mounted behind the dash above the glovebox but I thought that was wired in after the relay. There's a button on it which pops out if it's been activated I believe you can just press it back in to reset it

Loubaruch

1,169 posts

198 months

Wednesday 16th July 2014
quotequote all
If your Meta immobiliser/alarm is the same as mine ( 1996-500) then 3 circuits are isolated including the fuel pump. Some later Meta units apparently only isolate two circuits.

It could be your immobiliser is not sending +12 v to the pump relay.

I have the necessary wiring diagram to bypass that part of the immobiliser should you need it.

You can do this in the passenger footwell without accessing the imm/alarm units which are usually behind the dash.