Help - Stuck Handbrake Adjuster
Discussion
After swapping my rear calipers and everything back together again I've got a stuck handbrake adjuster. I'm talking about the nylon knurled wheel above the diff. The adjuster is presently fully backed off and now I want to tighten the cable I find I have a stuck adjuster. Accessibility is so limited I can't get any real leverage on the wheel. Importantly I can't remember which way I should rotate it to take up the cable slack. I don't want to force it in the wrong direction as this can only get it even more seized. So .... if looking from the back of the car in a forwards direction should it be turned clockwise or anti-clockwise?
Question 2 Anyone got a demon tip on getting more leverage on the wheel?
Question 3 If all this fails what is the last resort solution? Please don't say a body lift!
Question 2 Anyone got a demon tip on getting more leverage on the wheel?
Question 3 If all this fails what is the last resort solution? Please don't say a body lift!
Hi James, what calipers have you fitted? Is the handbrake mechanism compatible? When I readjusted the handbrake cable on my 1992 precat if I can remenber back a couple of years ago, I beleve I turned it ant-clockwise looking from the rear. If I remember this takes the slack out of the bowden cable, hence tighten. If all else fails you could try and remove the caliper(s) away from the disc, thereby removing the tension in the cable system? Can you release the cable from the caliper? All things you could try. If successful, make sure cable is slackened off well before refitting, check everything can move easily, just leave the handbrake lever up one notch then adjust, this will give an opportunity to relieve the pressure a little should it happen again! Good luck, Pete
Hi guys Just managed to sort out the problem. I got more light onto the subject and now understand the (simple) mechanism a bit better. There are two knurled wheels - the forward one is the adjuster and the rear one is static and meant to stop the outer cable from twisting when the adjuster is being turned. A bit of silicon lube spray on the threads and all went free. BTW the front knurled wheel turns clockwise from the rear view of the car (as would be expected). Apols for the taking up attention on the forum but thought I should close this off rather than waste the time of others giving advice on this.
Plan B said:
Hi guys Just managed to sort out the problem. I got more light onto the subject and now understand the (simple) mechanism a bit better. There are two knurled wheels - the forward one is the adjuster and the rear one is static and meant to stop the outer cable from twisting when the adjuster is being turned. A bit of silicon lube spray on the threads and all went free. BTW the front knurled wheel turns clockwise from the rear view of the car (as would be expected). Apols for the taking up attention on the forum but thought I should close this off rather than waste the time of others giving advice on this.
Well done James, glad you are sorted mate. PetePlan B said:
.....There are two knurled wheels - the forward one is the adjuster and the rear one is static and meant to stop the outer cable from twisting when the adjuster is being turned. .......
Yes the forward nut is the adjuster but the second (thin) nut is a lock nut. It has some lumps on the front face that lock into the back of the adjuster. So you set the adjustment then wind the lock nut against the adjuster. You should hear/feel a couple of clicks which will indicate the adjustment is locked.Steve
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