Griff stalling

Hi,

need some help - my Griff 500 when cruising at low rpm will suddently stall completely. It will only come to life again if I either increase the thottle or take away the thottle completely. It feels like the fuel supply stops so I was wondering if it could be related to the pressure regulator - vacuum ? At full throttle the car runs great why I don't think it is either fuel filter or pump.

Cheers,

Dan

Had similar, on mine it was throttle pot fault code. ECU reset and fine since.

My afm was faulty - Joolz at kitsandclassics found an intermittent fault with it - from memory there was no code thrown up on mine though, it was just experience/rolling road time that identified it, so may be worthwhile trying a known good unit as yours is already showing a fault?

The rover gauge software allows me to reset the fault codes but they keep coming back

The throttle pot can go intermittent with heat- and id suspect this more than the AFM to start with. The AFMs can make the car run really rich, but not die as such. You are getting the error codes as the output of the two sensors dont tally- ie- you cant have a high AFM output if the throttle is shut. You will get this situation if the TP goes open circuit momentarily when the car is under load however.

Hi...Not sure if this is true but i did hear that some HT leads if not correct fitment can cause an electrical magnetic field that can reset the ECU whilst driving..Obviously causing all manner of issues...Its probably nothing but thought it might be worth a mention...Cheers...Ziga

Hi mate...Not 100% sure about what you should use but here is some info on plug leads that may help..
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...

Also the coil needs to be kept away from heat sources..Especially exhaust headers...The Wedge has the coil bolted to the inner O/S wheel arch whereas the range rover had them on the plenum..If the latter then a heat jacket could be the answer...Not sure if our friend jonnyz makes them but give him a call...You never know
http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/parts-and-p...

Hope this helps...Cheers...Ziga

Hope it helps mate...I always buy good quality leads..Not mega expensive for my old 350i but change them and the king lead every year...If you are running a modified engine NEVER scrimp on parts...Or expect them to last as long as they would with a normal engine..The heat build up inside the Wedge is scary..I had a Supercharged 280i project but the bonnet was the early style and the top vent was a blessing..I still had to spend £900 on a specially cored alloy rad and a turbo 18" Kenlowe fan...

Not sure what its like under the Griffs..I think later bonnet designs took this into consideration..Or maybe not...It is a TVR...Although my friends Tamora bonnet looks effective as you can see the manifolds ....


....300 bhp turbo golf......Torque over bhp any day!..Using it through the gears is the key...Failing that stick a 100lbs NOS bottle on it and rig it up to the throttle..Instant madness...And death if you are not careful ....

Ecu disconnect will reset al fault codes and resets Lambda trimming.

AFM Testing :
Testing is performed in the following manner. Peel back the rubber boot on the airflow meter connector and leave it plugged in to the airflow meter. Set up the digital multimeter to read voltage. Insert the negative probe into the Red/Black wire (sensor ground), and the positive into the Blue/Green wire (Airflow signal).
Turn on the ignition, but do not start the engine. The meter should immediately indicate a reading of approximately 0.3-0.34 Volts. Most defective airflow meters will overshoot to 0.5 Volts or higher, and take at least 2 seconds to come down to the correct voltage.

Don't you have anyone nearby to swap AFM ?

Regards Ronald.

Ha!
The other B275 owner types faster than me