Griff 500 bouncing rev counter

Griff 500 bouncing rev counter

Author
Discussion

robsant

Original Poster:

26 posts

107 months

Tuesday 30th June 2015
quotequote all
I bought a 1998 griff 500 a few weeks back and the rev counter seems to bounce a lot when changing gear, is this normal?

if not what do I need to check /change?

Thanks,

Rob

ukdj

1,004 posts

184 months

Wednesday 1st July 2015
quotequote all
Yes it is quite common and a well known "feature" on TVR's of this era another case of TADTS(They all do that sir)

The supposed fix is to run the tacho signal wire through the coil of a standard relay to smooth out the spikes which cause the bouncing.

blitzracing

6,387 posts

220 months

Wednesday 1st July 2015
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Or you have magnecore spark plug leads fitted?

robsant

Original Poster:

26 posts

107 months

Wednesday 1st July 2015
quotequote all
Ahh thanks

The car has magnecor kv85 competition leads.

Why do they make the Rev counter bounce ?

neutral 3

6,453 posts

170 months

Wednesday 1st July 2015
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Photos of her and more details Robsant ?

blitzracing

6,387 posts

220 months

Thursday 2nd July 2015
quotequote all
robsant said:
Ahh thanks

The car has magnecor kv85 competition leads.

Why do they make the Rev counter bounce ?
They are about the worse leads you can fit to a road engine, as the lead resistance is very low, that leads to big voltage spikes in the coil primary as it switches. This causes the glitching of the rev counter. You can try more resistance in the spark path, like resistive plug shrouds or resistive plugs. The cheapest option however is to put a standard carbon cored king lead in from the coil to the distributor, which may be enough to calm things down.

robsant

Original Poster:

26 posts

107 months

Thursday 2nd July 2015
quotequote all
They were on the car when I bought it, and it seems very quick.

ideally don't want to reduce performance.

I can cope with the bouncing now I know it's not likely to be a major problem.

Thanks for all the information.

blitzracing

6,387 posts

220 months

Friday 3rd July 2015
quotequote all
The power the spark delivers is irrelevant once the combustion process has started, so you only need enough power to start the burn reliably and no more, as the excess energy simply burns the plug tips out and spikes the coil. Any idea that fitting low resistance race leads to a road engine to produce more power is just wishful thinking im afraid- not that stops anyone out to make a fast buck of of these highly over priced leads selling them.

robsant

Original Poster:

26 posts

107 months

Monday 6th July 2015
quotequote all
Thanks for all the information .

Which leads would you recommend ?

blitzracing

6,387 posts

220 months

Monday 6th July 2015
quotequote all
I would have said the Bosch OEM ones, but I gather they dont do them for the Rv8 any more. I think the genuine Lucas work well enough, but Id change them on a fairly regular basis in a hot TVR engine bay.

robsant

Original Poster:

26 posts

107 months

Tuesday 7th July 2015
quotequote all
On inspecting the leads a noticed this, so I assume worth changing ?



neutral 3

6,453 posts

170 months

Tuesday 7th July 2015
quotequote all
Looks like that ignition lead boot has touched the header ?

I'm also looking for new ignition leads, but am unsure which ones to get ?

GTRene

16,499 posts

224 months

Tuesday 7th July 2015
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looks like sparks found a way through that?

blitzracing

6,387 posts

220 months

Wednesday 8th July 2015
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So much for "85KV" voltage rating on the red leads rolleyes- the RV8 system peaks at no more than 40KV and thats what happens!

On plug leads in general, dont forget to check out plug lead sets for the Range Rover 3.9 classic, they should all fit apart from the king lead to the coil that I think is a different length on the TVR. You dont have to pay TVR tax.

TV8

3,122 posts

175 months

Wednesday 8th July 2015
quotequote all
robsant said:
On inspecting the leads a noticed this, so I assume worth changing ?


Speak with Magnecor, they will probably change that damaged one FOC.

V8Bart

788 posts

190 months

Monday 13th July 2015
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Well my advice, I've just spent 16 quid on genuine lucas ones and it solved my issues.

ChilliWhizz

11,992 posts

161 months

Tuesday 14th July 2015
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Bit more info and possibly useful linky here...

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

davep

1,143 posts

284 months

Tuesday 14th July 2015
quotequote all
blitzracing said:
They are about the worse leads you can fit to a road engine, as the lead resistance is very low, that leads to big voltage spikes in the coil primary as it switches. This causes the glitching of the rev counter. You can try more resistance in the spark path, like resistive plug shrouds or resistive plugs. The cheapest option however is to put a standard carbon cored king lead in from the coil to the distributor, which may be enough to calm things down.
These spurious voltage spikes for each spark you mention must also play havoc with the ECU's Spark Interrupt code especially when it's trying to calculate the Spark Ignition period, given that the White/Black feed to the Rev counter also goes to pin 39 of the ECU. There should be a series 6.8K Ohm dropper in the circuit but is that sufficient?