Clutch hydraulics not working after rebuild
Discussion
After leaving the master cylinder leak for way too long I have now had it off the car and put new seals in.
I also had the slave off and honed the bore slightly to remove some light rust.
Now I have put it all back together and bled it through (assistant up-down open-close method) but there is NO resistance in the pedal.
Anything obvious I am missing? Is it really tricky to bleed the Griff from empty? Could I have missed something rebuilding the cylinders ?
Going to go get an EzzeBleed in the morning and try that.
As an aside to the post, here is the spanner I 'made' to get on the bottom bolt - used blowlamp and a BIG hammer :-)
I also had the slave off and honed the bore slightly to remove some light rust.
Now I have put it all back together and bled it through (assistant up-down open-close method) but there is NO resistance in the pedal.
Anything obvious I am missing? Is it really tricky to bleed the Griff from empty? Could I have missed something rebuilding the cylinders ?
Going to go get an EzzeBleed in the morning and try that.
As an aside to the post, here is the spanner I 'made' to get on the bottom bolt - used blowlamp and a BIG hammer :-)
In the absence of any other replies,
never had to do it on the griff but I think they're the same or similar to most other set ups.
If the rest of the assembly is all in order and the only problem is air in the system then patience and different approaches will sort it out.
Ezzebleed can be quite effective, I use a 50ml plastic syringe on the end of a long piece of clear plastic tube on the end of the open nipple.
Some times you can fill the system from the bleed nipple and push the air out via the master cylinder.
Other times it won't cooperate but persistence help you will win through,
enthusiastic effort pumping pedal with the nipple open can sometimes succeed.
never had to do it on the griff but I think they're the same or similar to most other set ups.
If the rest of the assembly is all in order and the only problem is air in the system then patience and different approaches will sort it out.
Ezzebleed can be quite effective, I use a 50ml plastic syringe on the end of a long piece of clear plastic tube on the end of the open nipple.
Some times you can fill the system from the bleed nipple and push the air out via the master cylinder.
Other times it won't cooperate but persistence help you will win through,
enthusiastic effort pumping pedal with the nipple open can sometimes succeed.
I have never been able to bleed mine 100% using the traditional method, even with the nose of the car up in the air.
I remove the slave cylinder from the bellhousing and with bleed nipple end facing the sky push the piston in on the slave cylinder a few times and the bubbles will appear in the master. Bleeds it a treat perefect.
Just have some rags ready to catch any fluid around the master.
It also helps with this method if you have a flexi clutch pipe.
I remove the slave cylinder from the bellhousing and with bleed nipple end facing the sky push the piston in on the slave cylinder a few times and the bubbles will appear in the master. Bleeds it a treat perefect.
Just have some rags ready to catch any fluid around the master.
It also helps with this method if you have a flexi clutch pipe.
It sounds like you still have problem with the seals either in the master or slave cylinder. I assume that when you bleed the slave you are getting fluid out of the bleed nipple and that when you'v finished there are no more bubbles coming out.
A few possibilities spring to mind
The seals haven't been fitted correctly (the wrong way round)
The bores are worn and can't seal with the cylinder bore
You mentioned honing the bores in the slave cylinder so that is where I would look first.
A few possibilities spring to mind
The seals haven't been fitted correctly (the wrong way round)
The bores are worn and can't seal with the cylinder bore
You mentioned honing the bores in the slave cylinder so that is where I would look first.
Bit of a mystery this one. I assume from your thread that you have a pretty high level of competence so you must have thought of all the obvious things.
If it is the slave cylinder then I would have thought you would have a large pool of hydraulic fluid under the car. I assume you changed the seals after honing the bore.
Even if the system was not fully bled you would have thought there would be some resistance. If it was me I would return to the master cylinder (sorry I know it's a barsteward to get at). It sounds like the seals are not sealing, although I'm surprised you are not getting fluid in the foot well still.
I guess logic tells me that if it worked before but doesn't work now having changed something major (the master cylinder) then the first place to look is the thing you changed.
Keep us posted.
Pete
If it is the slave cylinder then I would have thought you would have a large pool of hydraulic fluid under the car. I assume you changed the seals after honing the bore.
Even if the system was not fully bled you would have thought there would be some resistance. If it was me I would return to the master cylinder (sorry I know it's a barsteward to get at). It sounds like the seals are not sealing, although I'm surprised you are not getting fluid in the foot well still.
I guess logic tells me that if it worked before but doesn't work now having changed something major (the master cylinder) then the first place to look is the thing you changed.
Keep us posted.
Pete
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