Chassis rust treatment !
Discussion
my preferred method is :-
wire brush off the loose powder coating and surface rust, then apply 2 brush coats of hammerite (silver looks best) - the brush allows you to force the paint around the less accessible bits.
then use the 'normal' clear waxoyl, I use 1 of the big cans per side as the spray head is a bit easier to use to force the wax between the bodywork and the tubes.
make sure you mask off the brake assemblies with a plastic bag to avoid getting any on the discs.
let it harden for a few hours before using the car again and you will probably get a strong smell in the car for a few days whilst it burns off the overspray in the engine bay!!
Takes a day to get it done right depending on the state of the chassis to start with and I've never found it to be as messy as some people make out!
costs about £20 all in and is best to do it about now whilst it's still (relatively) dry.
also take the chance to tighten up the rear body mounts (in the wheel arches behind the seats) as I discovered mine had loosened and were letting water into the boot.
wire brush off the loose powder coating and surface rust, then apply 2 brush coats of hammerite (silver looks best) - the brush allows you to force the paint around the less accessible bits.
then use the 'normal' clear waxoyl, I use 1 of the big cans per side as the spray head is a bit easier to use to force the wax between the bodywork and the tubes.
make sure you mask off the brake assemblies with a plastic bag to avoid getting any on the discs.
let it harden for a few hours before using the car again and you will probably get a strong smell in the car for a few days whilst it burns off the overspray in the engine bay!!
Takes a day to get it done right depending on the state of the chassis to start with and I've never found it to be as messy as some people make out!
costs about £20 all in and is best to do it about now whilst it's still (relatively) dry.
also take the chance to tighten up the rear body mounts (in the wheel arches behind the seats) as I discovered mine had loosened and were letting water into the boot.
I used an excellent paint called POR15. It's mail order from Frosts Restoration Techniques, 01706 658619. They do all sorts of useful stuff, it's worth getting their catalogue. I found this much better than Hammerite. I've used various paints and rust treatments over the years on many different cars and this stuff is definately the best. It's a bar steward to get off skin though. After painting the chassis with POR15, I then use waxoyl in an aerosol. The reason for this, is you can use the can either as a direct spray or you can fit one of the small plastic pipes into the end of the nozzle, similar to the ones you get with WD40. This makes it ideal to get waxoyl into very tight gaps and into the gap between the body and the chassis.
I get any loose stuff off with them wire brushes that go in a battery drill, then i rough up the good paint a little with emery cloth and give a new coat of Hammerite, followed by Waxoyle.
A messy job and a little time consuming but at least you know u got every where.
Have heard of people putting white spirits in the waxoyle so it gives a more of a misting but find if you leave it long enough in a bowl of hot water it is usually thin enough to give good coverage.
BB
A messy job and a little time consuming but at least you know u got every where.
Have heard of people putting white spirits in the waxoyle so it gives a more of a misting but find if you leave it long enough in a bowl of hot water it is usually thin enough to give good coverage.
BB
Ballistic Banana said:Yep, I did this a couple of weekends ago, I stood the gallon can of waxoyle in a bucket of hot water whilst I finished off the prep-work, then used a combination of brush-on and hand sprayer. For the sprayer I thinned it 50/50 with white spirit and used on old sprayer of the sort that wheel cleaner etc. comes in, actually worked really well. Rich... p.s. I used white "Smoothright" (Hammerite with a semi-matt finish)with a touch of black to get the perfect colour match for my chassis.
Have heard of people putting white spirits in the waxoyle so it gives a more of a misting but find if you leave it long enough in a bowl of hot water it is usually thin enough to give good coverage. BB
Iron gives up electrons during rusting - bonding with oxygen to form iron oxide. The device works by impressing a controlled current (free electrons) onto the chassis (and other metal bits connected). The rusting process takes these free electrons provided by the CAT system instead of removing electrons from the metal, leaving the metal substantially unchanged.
The system consists of a generator, a pair of sensors that are attached to the chassis and the car's battery which acts as the power supply.
Not a miracle cure - but it all helps.
The system consists of a generator, a pair of sensors that are attached to the chassis and the car's battery which acts as the power supply.
Not a miracle cure - but it all helps.
Use of POR15 is seconded. This stuff in unbeleivably tough - hammerite is too hard (ie brittle) and will leap off if a stone chip so much as looks at it. POR15 you can literaly bray with a hammer and it stays put. The chassis will dent before the paint comes off. It is also rust inhibiting I believe.
Anyone who cares at all how long their chassis stays in one piece really ought to get familiar with the Frosts catalogue, or their website. You won't get most of this stuff from Halfords.
And yes, the warning on the POR15 tins is for real. If you get the paint on the rim of the tin and reseal the lid IT WILL NOT EVER COME OFF AGAIN. Ditto skin, do not get any on yourself unless you want to look like a rambo refugee for a week.
Anyone who cares at all how long their chassis stays in one piece really ought to get familiar with the Frosts catalogue, or their website. You won't get most of this stuff from Halfords.
And yes, the warning on the POR15 tins is for real. If you get the paint on the rim of the tin and reseal the lid IT WILL NOT EVER COME OFF AGAIN. Ditto skin, do not get any on yourself unless you want to look like a rambo refugee for a week.
Just get the 0.5litre size (approx £15-17), I did and I've done half the chassis and there's loads left. I never use thinners, the stuff is very thin and spreads exceptionally well. Do follow the instructions on the can, especially the re-sealing the lid with clingfilm and decanting the paint into a small container for use. Don't use it as you would normal paint. It goes off quicker in damp conditions, so don't decant too much. I did and the stuff set in the bottom of the container before I'd had chance to use it. Make sure you invest in many pairs of rubber gloves aswell. There is a website that has many FAQ's about POR15, it's worth searching it out.
joolzb, used silver for the chassis and black for the suspension components.
Ordinary cellulose thinners, cleans the brushes enough. I tend to buy cheapo packs of brushes from Wilko's, because the bristles all get damaged when doing the job anyway, so they get binned after a couple of uses.
I found a good metal scraper and wire brushes sufficient to do my car, and then a bit of de-greasant just to make sure the surface was clean enough to paint on. It'll depend on how bad the original powder coating is on your car. The paint adheres very well to the rusty areas of metal.I also used some very coarse emery cloth, ideally the sort of stuff used in a metalwork shop, to rough up any powder coated surfaces that were still intact. This provided an excellent key for the paint. Without keying the surface the paint tended to just spread around.
Hope this answers all your questions. Feel free to email me direct if you have anymore.
Ordinary cellulose thinners, cleans the brushes enough. I tend to buy cheapo packs of brushes from Wilko's, because the bristles all get damaged when doing the job anyway, so they get binned after a couple of uses.
I found a good metal scraper and wire brushes sufficient to do my car, and then a bit of de-greasant just to make sure the surface was clean enough to paint on. It'll depend on how bad the original powder coating is on your car. The paint adheres very well to the rusty areas of metal.I also used some very coarse emery cloth, ideally the sort of stuff used in a metalwork shop, to rough up any powder coated surfaces that were still intact. This provided an excellent key for the paint. Without keying the surface the paint tended to just spread around.
Hope this answers all your questions. Feel free to email me direct if you have anymore.
I found a wallpaper scraper, of the pointy triangle variety, a good tool for scraping back to sound metal. I then cleaned all traces of rust off with wire brush attachments on a drill, then etched the metal with the metal prep you can get from Frosts. Nasty acid stuff to work with, but certainly prevents rust from reappearing. It also gives a nice surface for the paint to key.
I didn't trust there not to be traces of rust under the sound coating that was left so if I could access it it came off. I worked on the principle that if I couldn't get at it from in a pit then neither would it be likely to suffer stone chips, so I was happy to leave the unexposed parts. Everything got slathered with Waxoyl undersealer afterwards though, another very messy job.
I did make the mistake of undersealing some chassis tubing close to the exhaust though. It melts nicely every run out!
I didn't trust there not to be traces of rust under the sound coating that was left so if I could access it it came off. I worked on the principle that if I couldn't get at it from in a pit then neither would it be likely to suffer stone chips, so I was happy to leave the unexposed parts. Everything got slathered with Waxoyl undersealer afterwards though, another very messy job.
I did make the mistake of undersealing some chassis tubing close to the exhaust though. It melts nicely every run out!
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