What to look at, buying used 500s
Discussion
Hi there, I am intending to buy a used 500 next spring. In Germany it is however quite hard to find one at all, not even talking about less than 2 owners in its years on road and one being LHD (better for the overtaking..). Since many of you are experienced owners for many years, could you tell me what the weak parts are, where to take a very close look at and which technical details might even be worth bringing the car to a garage on own expense before purchasing ? Thanks for your advise !
München. I guess they might kick us out of this Forum if we start writing german ;o) - would be great if we could meet. I just read the thread on "Ever bought a lemon", makes me quite nervous, to be honest. Why did you sell yours ?
>> Edited by beavis123 on Friday 26th September 10:18
>> Edited by beavis123 on Friday 26th September 10:18
[quote=beavis123I just read the thread on "Ever bought a lemon", makes me quite nervous, to be honest. [/quote]
Why? most of the responses on there are positive. Like most things, whether it be kitchen fitters, furniture delivery or cars, it's only ever the bad stories that make the headlines.
They do give you more expense than a normal car to run... they also give you a damn sight more fun than a normal car too.
Good luck and I hope you find one
Why? most of the responses on there are positive. Like most things, whether it be kitchen fitters, furniture delivery or cars, it's only ever the bad stories that make the headlines.
They do give you more expense than a normal car to run... they also give you a damn sight more fun than a normal car too.
Good luck and I hope you find one
I have tasted blood a couple of years ago at a (relatively) nearby dealer - the fun was unbelieveable, but then: Who am I telling this ? :-) And I am well aware of the fact, that the SLK I had until last year outruns the Griffith in terms of quality. I noticed at the car I took on the test-drive things like a hood that fell of its rails when opened and humidity in some of the instrument. If its minor things like that, no problem. But I was hoping that the engine of the car is a real Ironheart, and as reliable as the US Smallblocks. This is also the reason I am looking for a 500, because I well remember stories about the early Cerberas being town back to the garage...and even if the Straight6 is now as reliable as a V8 with roots from back in the 50s should be (?): I am unfortunately not able to afford a new TVR. The price for the used cars are almost the same in the UK and Germany as far as I figured out...
>> Edited by beavis123 on Friday 26th September 16:45
>> Edited by beavis123 on Friday 26th September 16:46
>> Edited by beavis123 on Friday 26th September 16:45
>> Edited by beavis123 on Friday 26th September 16:46
Having lived in Munchen for a year, the sight of a Griff 500 burbling down Leopold Strasse in the middle of summer would be something I'd love to see. It'd sure make a change to all the Porsche Turbo's. Ferrari's and Lambo's you usually see and would certainly attract more attention. Best of luck with your search and I hope to see it next year when myself and a few friends have our annual visit to try and drink the Augustiner Braueri dry.
Hi Oliver,
I know it’s not the next door, but you could have a look at www.tvr.ch - the main (and only) Swiss dealer (10 km from Zurich Airport) has few LHD second-hand Griffiths for sale. And he (Charles Pulfer) is a nice guy, too.
Good luck.
Cheers, Ozren
I know it’s not the next door, but you could have a look at www.tvr.ch - the main (and only) Swiss dealer (10 km from Zurich Airport) has few LHD second-hand Griffiths for sale. And he (Charles Pulfer) is a nice guy, too.
Good luck.
Cheers, Ozren
Well no-one seems to be helping poor Beavis123 with his original question, so here are the answers (not mine, culled from another posting on the thread I was recalling...):
Bodywork
Check the driving lights at the bottom for cracks
Check how the doors hang - have they scraped against the inside due to being badly hung
Check how the hood is attached to the car - is the glue coming away
Condition of roof/seals
Chassis
Top ball joints (last 12k miles at best) – rock wheel with car’s weight on to check wear
Check dampers at each corner by bouncing
Dampers often leak and the valves knock
Front upper wishbones - corrosion
Front outriggers, behind front wheels – chips, corrosion
Chassis members under sills - corrosion
Suspension bushes collapse and suspension arms rub against chassis lugs
Front and rear chassis – accident damage/jacking damage
Ensure that the front bar of the chassis is straight
Check steering rack for leaks
Check brakes for leaks
Check for even tyre wear
Early cars have GKN diffs, often leak and big hassle getting seals and fitting them
Engine
Remove inspection hatch in inner wing (driver’s side) to check no clutch fluid leak
Exhaust – no smoke
Piston slap common from cold start
Smooth idle/nice tickover – 1000rpm
No hunting
Restarts when hot
Oil pressure – 25-30 psi
Coolant 70-80 while driving, fans cut in at 92
Check the cooling fans work - do both fans kick in at 90
Check the ventilation fan works (it's at the front of the car behind the left headlight) - they are pretty exposed and can fail
Coolant leaks in corners of radiators, hoses and water pump
Check exhaust manifolds and gaskets for leaks
Engines can be noisy
Listen for any valve clatter when warm - in particular when travelling at a constant speed in 2nd/3rd at 3K revs
Interior/Electrics
Windscreen de-lamination – milkiness around edge of glass
Check for water/rust/mould under carpets, on seat mechanisms. Check seatbelt operation
Look at the seats and if you can see any grain, it's vinyl rather than leather – leather should be smooth
Early 500 – black heating controls (in front of gearknob), reversed speedo & rev counter
Later 500 – aluminium heating controls, normal speedo (with mechanical tripometer) & rev counter, silver rinmmed 94>
Rover gearbox – reverser upper left, T5 gearbox – reverse lower right
Check all electrics work especially
• instrumentation
• the complicated electronic heater
• heated mirrors
• heated seats if fitted.
• electric windows (don't let them clunk at the bottom because it will eventually drop out the guides and refuse to go up again)
• lights
Test Drive
If steering binds when turned, UJ’s worn
Car should not drift to one side with no hands on wheel (unless cambered road)
No judder when brakes applied
Smooth acceleration
Misc
Options: PAS, A/C, leather, heated seats
Bodywork
Check the driving lights at the bottom for cracks
Check how the doors hang - have they scraped against the inside due to being badly hung
Check how the hood is attached to the car - is the glue coming away
Condition of roof/seals
Chassis
Top ball joints (last 12k miles at best) – rock wheel with car’s weight on to check wear
Check dampers at each corner by bouncing
Dampers often leak and the valves knock
Front upper wishbones - corrosion
Front outriggers, behind front wheels – chips, corrosion
Chassis members under sills - corrosion
Suspension bushes collapse and suspension arms rub against chassis lugs
Front and rear chassis – accident damage/jacking damage
Ensure that the front bar of the chassis is straight
Check steering rack for leaks
Check brakes for leaks
Check for even tyre wear
Early cars have GKN diffs, often leak and big hassle getting seals and fitting them
Engine
Remove inspection hatch in inner wing (driver’s side) to check no clutch fluid leak
Exhaust – no smoke
Piston slap common from cold start
Smooth idle/nice tickover – 1000rpm
No hunting
Restarts when hot
Oil pressure – 25-30 psi
Coolant 70-80 while driving, fans cut in at 92
Check the cooling fans work - do both fans kick in at 90
Check the ventilation fan works (it's at the front of the car behind the left headlight) - they are pretty exposed and can fail
Coolant leaks in corners of radiators, hoses and water pump
Check exhaust manifolds and gaskets for leaks
Engines can be noisy
Listen for any valve clatter when warm - in particular when travelling at a constant speed in 2nd/3rd at 3K revs
Interior/Electrics
Windscreen de-lamination – milkiness around edge of glass
Check for water/rust/mould under carpets, on seat mechanisms. Check seatbelt operation
Look at the seats and if you can see any grain, it's vinyl rather than leather – leather should be smooth
Early 500 – black heating controls (in front of gearknob), reversed speedo & rev counter
Later 500 – aluminium heating controls, normal speedo (with mechanical tripometer) & rev counter, silver rinmmed 94>
Rover gearbox – reverser upper left, T5 gearbox – reverse lower right
Check all electrics work especially
• instrumentation
• the complicated electronic heater
• heated mirrors
• heated seats if fitted.
• electric windows (don't let them clunk at the bottom because it will eventually drop out the guides and refuse to go up again)
• lights
Test Drive
If steering binds when turned, UJ’s worn
Car should not drift to one side with no hands on wheel (unless cambered road)
No judder when brakes applied
Smooth acceleration
Misc
Options: PAS, A/C, leather, heated seats
beavis said:A recent survey didn't show German marques in a good light regarding running costs, with expensive repairs being a major factor, so that cliche may be starting to look a little tired now (whichever side of it you look from).
And I am well aware of the fact, that the SLK I had until last year outruns the Griffith in terms of quality
Thanks a lot Simpo Two, it is quite a list: But very helpfull (Better spend 2 hours checking everything than buying a lemon). I did not even think of looking in Zürich, good idea, Ozren, that´ll widen chances to find a good one. Is there somebody driving their Griff also during the winter season ? Theoretically it should be no problem to get winter tyres in the appropriate size...Guess handling 300+ HP on snow and ice with no electronical helper is quite a challenge ;-)
There is a Griff buyers guide on www.tvrbooks.co.uk
As for snow driving... snow chains not recommended as there is not enough room to fit them without the big risk of bodywork damage.
The swiss dealer is TGE Automobile +41 1865 04 65
info@tge.ch
The number of LHD cars is extremely small so you may need to be very flexible!
Steve
As for snow driving... snow chains not recommended as there is not enough room to fit them without the big risk of bodywork damage.
The swiss dealer is TGE Automobile +41 1865 04 65
info@tge.ch
The number of LHD cars is extremely small so you may need to be very flexible!
Steve
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff