Exhaust manifold preparation

Exhaust manifold preparation

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FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

248 months

Thursday 28th August 2014
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I've acquired a decatted manifold in good condition and want to paint it. I've got the paint so should be easy. Its for the 500 so has lambda sensors also included. Do I need to take these out and if not should I clean the exposed end inside the manifold with something? I was just going to give the face that sits against the block a brush with some emery and fit new gaskets, nordlocks and ARP studs. Anything else?
FFG

FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

248 months

Thursday 28th August 2014
quotequote all
blitzracing said:
Leave the probes in so you can use them with your current fuel map.
Sorry Mark, probably wasn't clear. Just wondered if I should remove them to paint the manifold but knowing its not easy getting them out probably best as you say to leave them in. Should I clean the crap off the sensor end and if so with what?
FFG

FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

248 months

Friday 29th August 2014
quotequote all
It was me on f-bay, sorry. I've got other manifolds but all with cats other than a 500 without cats but no hole for the lambda sensors. Seemed easier to buy a decatted set rather than remove the cats in the existing set, and cheaper. I've got high temp POR paint which is POR15 (was POR20). I've used POR on loads of stuff - cast iron hoppers (and will do on guttering), Griff wishbones, brackets for outdoor lights, Victorian gates etc and no rust on any of it so I know its good stuff.

Looked at ceramic and its expensive and I've seen varying results after a short space of time.
FFG

FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

248 months

Friday 29th August 2014
quotequote all
brett84 said:
where abouts are you mate? I've got loads of POR20 left you could have?
Sandblasting of manifolds and down pipe was £20 at a local place then coated in POR20 (I bought a large tin and you hardly need any if you're giving them 3 coats).
It's been running loads on the drive, dulled down but nothing has burnt off yet, lasted longer than most things i've tried in the past. I don't think it would post easily though?

Many thanks for the offer, but I've got a tin (think its large just need to find it). Can't even recall what colour it is.
FFG

FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

248 months

Friday 29th August 2014
quotequote all
portzi said:
As phillpot mike said earlier they need to be sandblasted or the paint can't key properly. Stick the manifold in the oven first before painting!!. The paint will key better if metal is warm. l am sure Andrea won't mind!!!. l did not know it had changed names to POR15 same as the standard anti rust stuff. l had had mine on gore over 2 years now. There has been some minor flaking on the manifolds but the y piece has stayed flake free. The parts which flaked little l rubbed down and reapplied . POR is so runny that it will airbush fine patching up the minor flaking manifolds areas. smile.
The POR states it dries with moisture so I normally paint it later at night when the humidity is higher so can't see how sticking in an oven would help.
I was just going to rub the surface with a wire brush as its not smooth anyway and as long as there is a key it will stick - note how it stick to skin!!
FFG

FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

248 months

Friday 29th August 2014
quotequote all
brett84 said:
which POR are you using?
The high temp stuff will not work properly unless you get them blasted first, i've tried it in the past and checked out loads of other people online in the same situation.
I've done them with an angle grinder wire brush so they look completely clean but it still burnt off after about 10 minutes.
If I have to sandblast them I will. Got a blaster now and some aluminium oxide grit (which came with it) but this may spur me to finally get a compressor.
I'll get a socket anyway for £4 -thanks Pete.
FFG