What have you done in your garage...?
Discussion
In response to that other thread...
Go on, most of the other TVR sections have tinkering threads - post up what you've done in/next to your garage.
No "I got some peas out of the freezer" or "Pulled the wheelie bins out" thanks
I've put new wheels'n'tyres on mine...
Go on, most of the other TVR sections have tinkering threads - post up what you've done in/next to your garage.
No "I got some peas out of the freezer" or "Pulled the wheelie bins out" thanks
I've put new wheels'n'tyres on mine...
ChilliWhizz said:
Just opened up the garage doors with next door neighbour (who as it turned out is a bike/car nut), response was brilliant, "Oh my God" he said, "A TVR", "and it's a Chimaera... that's just absolutely I didn't know you played Golf old chap...boot's excellent on these isn't it..." Oh, hang on, sorry guys, just realised I'm posting on the wrong thread/forum... really sorry about that, must pay more attention 
No problem.This morning I are mostly be fitting a new coil.
Car died last night after maybe 20 miles - only 1/2 mile from home fortunately - but started ok today.
Coil was stamped col220 - which from searching on here suggests it's original 1997 vintage. I think it is the only original factory part left in the ignition system ,so was hopefully the cause of the fault - fuel pumping, just zilch ignition.
Resistance under 6k ohms, new Bosch prc6574 over 9k ohms.
Ign amp is genuine Lucas and new. I'm hoping the heat got to the old coil....
Dear PH, have I fixed it? Anyone know what resistance these should be?
Car died last night after maybe 20 miles - only 1/2 mile from home fortunately - but started ok today.
Coil was stamped col220 - which from searching on here suggests it's original 1997 vintage. I think it is the only original factory part left in the ignition system ,so was hopefully the cause of the fault - fuel pumping, just zilch ignition.
Resistance under 6k ohms, new Bosch prc6574 over 9k ohms.
Ign amp is genuine Lucas and new. I'm hoping the heat got to the old coil....
Dear PH, have I fixed it? Anyone know what resistance these should be?
griffdude said:
andy43 said:
Stupid low-slung sportscars. That is all.
#needabetterjack
Yep.#needabetterjack
Gearbox atf - tick.
Still on list - engine oil'n'filter, diff oil, tidy up 100A fuse, see if slave clutch cyl is really leaking, source and fit a cover for gaping 'ole in bellhousing to stop birds nesting in it, lie under vehicle and gaze upon the magnificence of the simple cable tie and how it revolutionised the car industry...well, in Blackpool anyway...
Valvoline VR1 oil and genuine LR filter this afternoon.
And an earful of engine oil dripping from a chassis tube near the filter. Pardon?
I shamefully had to use a monkey wrench on the sump plug - it's bloody huge!
And... more monkeys... always always check tyre pressures no matter what tyre monkey say.
New wheels'n'tyres - asked for 24 psi all round, confirmed with a 'yes, 24 psi' as I carried them out to my car boot.
33 psi. And that was the lowest one.
That'll be why it's been a bit lively on bumps then.
Next stop 100A fuse and holder. It's a 'midi' fuse holder like this I think.
And an earful of engine oil dripping from a chassis tube near the filter. Pardon?
I shamefully had to use a monkey wrench on the sump plug - it's bloody huge!
And... more monkeys... always always check tyre pressures no matter what tyre monkey say.
New wheels'n'tyres - asked for 24 psi all round, confirmed with a 'yes, 24 psi' as I carried them out to my car boot.
33 psi. And that was the lowest one.
That'll be why it's been a bit lively on bumps then.
Next stop 100A fuse and holder. It's a 'midi' fuse holder like this I think.
andy43 said:
I am Mystic Meg.Noticed a distinct lack of voltage yesterday. Tapping gauge Biggles-style didn't help.
Was caused by the under-car 100A fuse between alternator and battery having hairline cracked.
Fitted new fuse and holder that I'd bought a few weeks ago after looking at the state of the existing holder.
Battery disconnected first, blathered fuse terminals and holder in grease and now have a happy charging system again.
Yet again PH search facility comes to the rescue - I had visions of new alternators or regulators - I thought the 100A fuse was for the whole car not just the alternator feed.
Moral of the story - if it looks knackered, change it, don't just buy the bits and stick 'em on a shelf
Off to buy a lottery ticket now...
I'm going to have to get this rovergauge cable - watch me total the ecu with one key stroke
Today in t'garage mot preparations are afoot. Brake lights found to be u/s. Application of hammer (small) to bracket holding brake switch has effected a complete repair.
With new found confidence I will attempt a cam swap and Decat before tea. Maybe...
Today in t'garage mot preparations are afoot. Brake lights found to be u/s. Application of hammer (small) to bracket holding brake switch has effected a complete repair.
With new found confidence I will attempt a cam swap and Decat before tea. Maybe...
Passed. Flying colours, apart from replacing a swollen headlight bulb that was making the beam all blurred (no I hadn't heard of that either...)
If you didn't already know, be careful with the MOT - TVRs have a limited slip diff, so the MOT brake test needs doing out on the road, not on the brake test rollers as it can damage the diff.
Any excuse... but tester (also races hot rods) did say it's well balanced and drives lovely
Also done BTR diff oil - Morris Lodexol as recommended on here. Rear wheel off, adjustable wrench on filler, 13mm and a breaker bar on the drain plug and into a measuring jug - almost dead on 1.6 litres came out. I used 2 foot of 15mm speedfit plumbing pipe into the filler from the wheelarch with a funnel on the end and it made the pouring dead easy.
I have a sparkly Clive F Y piece sitting here winking at me now too...
...and today was sorting the heater/fan/controls/those 4 knobs - dead after hitting a bump in the road. I've found an overrated 20A fuse with a bit of meltage and corrosion so I'm wondering whether the fan motor is in need of lubrication. 20A hadn't blown, but not in the best of health.
I've had the fusebox out and all looks ok on the back, no signs of water ingress or loose wires. Correct 15A fuse now fitted, all ok. Fan sounds ok, gets up to speed, and crucially, compared to a precat it actually moves air about
Will have to see how long the new fuse lasts.
Question - four ally heater knobs, top right one is twist for fan speed (not 3 speed, it's infinitely adjustable speed if that makes sense), and push-push for fan on/off. When I push the knob, fan either starts or stops BUT I also get the 3 minute heated mirror red led come on. Is this right? Every time you switch the fan on or off do the mirrors heat up?
I've had the fusebox out and all looks ok on the back, no signs of water ingress or loose wires. Correct 15A fuse now fitted, all ok. Fan sounds ok, gets up to speed, and crucially, compared to a precat it actually moves air about
Will have to see how long the new fuse lasts.Question - four ally heater knobs, top right one is twist for fan speed (not 3 speed, it's infinitely adjustable speed if that makes sense), and push-push for fan on/off. When I push the knob, fan either starts or stops BUT I also get the 3 minute heated mirror red led come on. Is this right? Every time you switch the fan on or off do the mirrors heat up?
V8Bart said:
Cheers Andy,
First off, metal finshers Vernon Moss did a re chrome for 20 odd a piece.
The hard work was paint, cleaned with spirit.
Chose Rustoleum matte black spray, 4-5 light coats. (put the badges on a box so they can sit flat to avoids runs)
Left them for 24 hours, then used old credit card to carefully scrape the highest points back to chrome (easy on tvr badge, but very difficult for 500 badge)
What really helped me was then rubbing gently with spirit to clean chrome and this tidied the edges up.
Final thing I did was put them in the oven at roughly 150 for half hour, then let them sit in there for a few hours.
You've got me thinking about finding a chrome plating place now - my rear badge 'needs work'. Ta First off, metal finshers Vernon Moss did a re chrome for 20 odd a piece.
The hard work was paint, cleaned with spirit.
Chose Rustoleum matte black spray, 4-5 light coats. (put the badges on a box so they can sit flat to avoids runs)
Left them for 24 hours, then used old credit card to carefully scrape the highest points back to chrome (easy on tvr badge, but very difficult for 500 badge)
What really helped me was then rubbing gently with spirit to clean chrome and this tidied the edges up.
Final thing I did was put them in the oven at roughly 150 for half hour, then let them sit in there for a few hours.
johnzo said:
But ... as I was rooting around I found a drip of petrol out of the (what on my car is) a braided hose near driver's foot area. That was something TWO (so that wasn't my imagine that I could smell petrol recently). Ian at TrackVRoad sorted me out some non braided high spec hose, but how the heck do you get to the clip to remove it, let alone tighten a new one???
Every combo of socket, handle, extension, flex drive and its on now, but think I shall have another check down there before going too far!
John
This is worth a read - I won't be fitting braided fuel hoses! : http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...Every combo of socket, handle, extension, flex drive and its on now, but think I shall have another check down there before going too far!
John
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