Griff stalling
Discussion
Hi,
need some help - my Griff 500 when cruising at low rpm will suddently stall completely. It will only come to life again if I either increase the thottle or take away the thottle completely. It feels like the fuel supply stops so I was wondering if it could be related to the pressure regulator - vacuum ? At full throttle the car runs great why I don't think it is either fuel filter or pump.
Cheers,
Dan
need some help - my Griff 500 when cruising at low rpm will suddently stall completely. It will only come to life again if I either increase the thottle or take away the thottle completely. It feels like the fuel supply stops so I was wondering if it could be related to the pressure regulator - vacuum ? At full throttle the car runs great why I don't think it is either fuel filter or pump.
Cheers,
Dan
Hi,
Thanks for the feedback. I connected the car to the Rover Gauge software and it gave me fault codes 17 (Throttle potentiometer) and 19 (airflow meter). I had the throttle potentiometer checked at work and it seemed right (no noise - steady increase in resistance) - adjusted the mounting to get the right voltage output at idle but still getting those fault codes. Do you think I need to change the airflow meter - any way to check for sure if it is working ?
Cheers,
Dan
Thanks for the feedback. I connected the car to the Rover Gauge software and it gave me fault codes 17 (Throttle potentiometer) and 19 (airflow meter). I had the throttle potentiometer checked at work and it seemed right (no noise - steady increase in resistance) - adjusted the mounting to get the right voltage output at idle but still getting those fault codes. Do you think I need to change the airflow meter - any way to check for sure if it is working ?
Cheers,
Dan
Thanks for all the input.
The heat inside the bonnet of the Griff is mad.
Connected the car to rover Gauge software again and noticed AFM readings of 6% during iddle. According to the great documention from Blitzracing it should be around 35% at iddle. The Throttle Potentiometer shows 5%. I keep getting the fault codes 17 (throttle potentiometer) and 19 (AFM). Any way of checking if the AFM needs replacing ? Also does the ECU reset when you undo the battery ?
The heat inside the bonnet of the Griff is mad.
Connected the car to rover Gauge software again and noticed AFM readings of 6% during iddle. According to the great documention from Blitzracing it should be around 35% at iddle. The Throttle Potentiometer shows 5%. I keep getting the fault codes 17 (throttle potentiometer) and 19 (AFM). Any way of checking if the AFM needs replacing ? Also does the ECU reset when you undo the battery ?
Did some investigating. When measuring the output of the AFM I begin with a reading of 0.5V and only after 6 to 8 sec it comes down to 0.34 V.
When connecting the Rover Gauge software using direct I get 35% of the AFM reading and 7% on the Throttle Pot reading at idle. The car still stalls occasionally and it is driving me nuts.
What do you suggest me to change first - the AFM or the TP and from where can I buy them for a reasonable price ?
Thanks again
When connecting the Rover Gauge software using direct I get 35% of the AFM reading and 7% on the Throttle Pot reading at idle. The car still stalls occasionally and it is driving me nuts.
What do you suggest me to change first - the AFM or the TP and from where can I buy them for a reasonable price ?
Thanks again
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