diff removal

diff removal

Author
Discussion

jesfirth

Original Poster:

1,743 posts

243 months

Wednesday 18th November 2015
quotequote all
my diff needs a rebuild so I plan to pull it out. I have a large access panel on the rear shelf so it is easy to get at BUT. the last time I tried to undo the drive shaft bolts they would not move at all. is there a technique or am I being a wuss?

Also once the drive shaft bolts are undone do the drive shafts move easily or does a flange sit inside the diff wheel?

jesfirth

Original Poster:

1,743 posts

243 months

Wednesday 18th November 2015
quotequote all
Though so. I'm a girl. Yes I do have Allen sockets.. Will give it a go.

jesfirth

Original Poster:

1,743 posts

243 months

Thursday 19th November 2015
quotequote all
Thanks chaps. Glad I added a radiator in the garage now that it's getting cold. When it's going back in which loctite thread lock do I buy. There are about 10 different grades?

jesfirth

Original Poster:

1,743 posts

243 months

Sunday 6th December 2015
quotequote all
Finally got sone spare time today. Only took 4 hours to remove the exhaust and get all the bolts undone. All except one of the long bolts to the front lower diff mount on which the nut just will not shift. I am soaking it overnight so will try again tomorrow.

A dumb question but do I have to take off the rear top diff mount as well as removing the long bolt that goes through the bush. The diff is free but I am struggling to get the diff to drop forwards far enough to clear the rear top mount so I can rotate it to drop through the chassis. Maybe because the front lower mount is partly in the way?

The good news is that there is not a single spot of rust on the chassis in the tunnel or up near the diff. It is all perfect so I am pleased with that.

jesfirth

Original Poster:

1,743 posts

243 months

Monday 7th December 2015
quotequote all
Thanks. I will leave it on then. I will have to twist that front bracket to get the clearance.

jesfirth

Original Poster:

1,743 posts

243 months

Monday 7th December 2015
quotequote all
thanks. thought as much. I loosened the drivers side long bottom bolt and then just rotated the bracket upwards out of the way, but I just cannot shift the nut on the passenger side one. I am soaking it in penetrating oil for a day or so. if that doesn't work I will have to cut off the nut and get a new bolt.

jesfirth

Original Poster:

1,743 posts

243 months

Monday 7th December 2015
quotequote all
stesrg said:
Well mines all out :-) used an 8mm Allen socket and 3/8 air ratchet pre soaked all the threads bit of a wire brush 1st now for the gearbox removal :-)
Ste.
go one - rub it in

jesfirth

Original Poster:

1,743 posts

243 months

Saturday 12th December 2015
quotequote all
Well it's out emptied and ready to go off to readman racing for a rebuild

jesfirth

Original Poster:

1,743 posts

243 months

Saturday 12th December 2015
quotequote all
stesrg said:
jesfirth said:
Well it's out emptied and ready to go off to readman racing for a rebuild
Good good progress in the end :-) I just got to get the box out now !!
Ste.
Steve. Out of interest how does the propshaft come off the box and will you take the box off the bell housing or take it out with the bell housing still attached?

jesfirth

Original Poster:

1,743 posts

243 months

Monday 14th December 2015
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Thanks Steve. I will just pull it off then. I don't mind losing the gearbox oil as I will change it anyway.

jesfirth

Original Poster:

1,743 posts

243 months

Tuesday 15th December 2015
quotequote all
Yup T5 is the same. To refill I have a thin bore hose attached to a bottle of oil. Makes it a lot easier.