Who's had their throttle bodies modded with bearings?
Discussion
Have received my new modded TB's from RG now, and the machining of them for the throttle bodies is good.
BUT, im not impressed with the state of the rest of the TB's, my old ones were in better condition .
In general, its cosmetic, burrs here and there, like for instance the fuel hose faces have been used for holding for machining and they are all burred. The butterfly mechanical arms still have witness marks and indentations from where the small grub screw has dug in and scored the face of the arm. The engine clamping faces arent completely smooth either, slight burrs etc.
So, it means a day of cleaning up with the dremel, grinding stones and some scotchbrite! All can be corrected and there is no play where there shouldn't be, but just be aware your not getting new TB's from RG...and when they say 'reconditioned' that doesnt necessarily refer to the whole thing!!!
BUT, im not impressed with the state of the rest of the TB's, my old ones were in better condition .
In general, its cosmetic, burrs here and there, like for instance the fuel hose faces have been used for holding for machining and they are all burred. The butterfly mechanical arms still have witness marks and indentations from where the small grub screw has dug in and scored the face of the arm. The engine clamping faces arent completely smooth either, slight burrs etc.
So, it means a day of cleaning up with the dremel, grinding stones and some scotchbrite! All can be corrected and there is no play where there shouldn't be, but just be aware your not getting new TB's from RG...and when they say 'reconditioned' that doesnt necessarily refer to the whole thing!!!
Edited by Robertjp on Tuesday 19th January 09:16
Edited by Robertjp on Tuesday 19th January 09:17
Tonymg said:
Well i had my Mk 1 engine full rebuilt & crank at TVR Power at 27k & WOW Fabo then had my throttle bodies done at Str8-Six at 34k evan more WOW & extra Fabo... and then i did this at 36.5k so if you going to spend some money on your Car please dont do like what i did weeep weeep....
but im ok not a scratch.......... i only did me wallet in.......
Tony...................
Must be your name then.but im ok not a scratch.......... i only did me wallet in.......
Tony...................
As I mentioned, rebuild, new shocks throttle bodies alloys etc etc and then...
Tony 2
Have you fitted your new RG bodies yet Rob? Have they helped? I am thinking of replacing mine and am tempted to go for the full Dreadnought upgrade. But if the ones from Racing Green sort out the problem I may try them instead to keep the costs down.
One question though, what is involved in fitting the replacements? Do you just bolt them on and the ECU adapts, or does it need stuff done on a laptop etc? Thanks.
One question though, what is involved in fitting the replacements? Do you just bolt them on and the ECU adapts, or does it need stuff done on a laptop etc? Thanks.
Im fitting them next week...have a few days off.
I am replacing the throttle pots too, but even if i wasnt, when taking them off the old set and putting them back on the new set you should then reset the throttle pot positions before doing the throttle balancing and idle reset. This needs the laptop and a synchrometer.
If you can wait a week or 2 i will let you know if it has solved my problem!
....oh and im glad my name isnt Tony. Having said that, im still not taking any chances!!
I am replacing the throttle pots too, but even if i wasnt, when taking them off the old set and putting them back on the new set you should then reset the throttle pot positions before doing the throttle balancing and idle reset. This needs the laptop and a synchrometer.
If you can wait a week or 2 i will let you know if it has solved my problem!
....oh and im glad my name isnt Tony. Having said that, im still not taking any chances!!
Thanks Rob. Apologies if this is a stupid question, but when STR8-SIX changed a throttle pot on my car a couple of months ago, they just let it idle afterwards, and after about 30 seconds the 2 sides of the car equalised by themselves (or so it seemed).
If I'm reusing my throttle pots will it not just sort itself out again?
Edited to add:- the main reason I ask this is that I have the diagnostic software, but don't have a lead or laptop to run it on. And I don't know what the hell I'm doing either! :-)
If I'm reusing my throttle pots will it not just sort itself out again?
Edited to add:- the main reason I ask this is that I have the diagnostic software, but don't have a lead or laptop to run it on. And I don't know what the hell I'm doing either! :-)
Edited by RM75 on Monday 25th January 18:19
RM75 said:
Thanks Rob. Apologies if this is a stupid question, but when STR8-SIX changed a throttle pot on my car a couple of months ago, they just let it idle afterwards, and after about 30 seconds the 2 sides of the car equalised by themselves (or so it seemed).
If I'm reusing my throttle pots will it not just sort itself out again?
Edited to add:- the main reason I ask this is that I have the diagnostic software, but don't have a lead or laptop to run it on. And I don't know what the hell I'm doing either! :-)
Not sure i know either, but i am learning as i go along!! I set the cerby up myself and watched the professionals do it, the speed 6 isnt all that different - still has two separate banks to balance. If I'm reusing my throttle pots will it not just sort itself out again?
Edited to add:- the main reason I ask this is that I have the diagnostic software, but don't have a lead or laptop to run it on. And I don't know what the hell I'm doing either! :-)
Edited by RM75 on Monday 25th January 18:19
Im not sure on the answer to your question to be honest - i would be very surprised if a throttle pot could be replaced without 'zero' positioning...the software has no way of knowing where it is. I will stand corrected, but cant see it myself. Give Jason a call and ask i guess? If anyone knows he will!
Basil Brush said:
I think, unlike the Cerbera, the speed 6 ecu resets the min throttle position each time the ignition switch is cycled.
Im not sure about that, when i first connected the laptop to my car shortly after getting it, one TP was reading 18% and the other 15.4%. After resetting it, they have remained at 15.4 and 15.9%. Also if it reset each time the ignition was cycled it could cause major issues too, If you rest your foot lightly on the throttle it could take it to 20% (ignition off, you start the car and by what your saying it would reset back to default (15.x%) when you took you foot off the throttle it would then drop to 10% which is below the default.
Buffoon said:
so called said:
It quietend the mechanical noise down considerably
What did it sound like before you had it done?When you pressed a butterfly flap to hold it still it made more of a WWMMMMMMMMMMMMMM noise
The whaaaa seemed to be generated by lots of vibration and chatter due to the wear and play in the butterfly's.
Also the airflow was less stable because of the constantly moving butterfly flaps which also changed the engine sound.
My instant reaction after having the throttle bodies done was that the recently rebuilt engine now sounded like it had recently been rebuilt. (like new).
Anyway, flat battery on my new Tuscan so going out to play now.
Edited by so called on Thursday 28th January 13:30
BGB autosport said:
Basil Brush said:
I think, unlike the Cerbera, the speed 6 ecu resets the min throttle position each time the ignition switch is cycled.
Im not sure about that, when i first connected the laptop to my car shortly after getting it, one TP was reading 18% and the other 15.4%. After resetting it, they have remained at 15.4 and 15.9%. Also if it reset each time the ignition was cycled it could cause major issues too, If you rest your foot lightly on the throttle it could take it to 20% (ignition off, you start the car and by what your saying it would reset back to default (15.x%) when you took you foot off the throttle it would then drop to 10% which is below the default.
I always reset everything in sight if I do anything on mine just in case.
Robertjp said:
And if you have - why?
Just want to understand why people have had it done, was it due to poor running, keep going out of tune etc etc? Has it solved the problem?
I ask because i went to discuss this mod with a local vintage car restorer yesterday (they have a great reputation for this type of one-off machining, they prep vintage lemans cars, rally cars etc) and i had quite a lenghty debate over just how significant the impact of the air leakage past the bushes, or movement of the butterfly valves, could have.
For example, its been touted as a cause of high rev misfires (5k rpm +), but at full throttle (which is typically where you will be at that engine speed) is the wear affect really that significant?? Whats the mechanism causing the misfire, AFR presumaby but caused by leakage, vibration?
Im not questioning the logic of it at all, it makes perfect sense to replace the bushes, and indeed the company are happy to do the work if i want them too, and no doubt in time i will get it done, but wanted to understand the specifics of why people have done it.
Rob
Just got mine back from Str8six. Significantly different, drives smoother, more responsive to light inputs to the throttle, better tick over when warm. Has been too wet yesterday & its icy today to give it beans and see if it makes a difference when going for it. Don't want to end up posting like the poor chaps on the last page!!Just want to understand why people have had it done, was it due to poor running, keep going out of tune etc etc? Has it solved the problem?
I ask because i went to discuss this mod with a local vintage car restorer yesterday (they have a great reputation for this type of one-off machining, they prep vintage lemans cars, rally cars etc) and i had quite a lenghty debate over just how significant the impact of the air leakage past the bushes, or movement of the butterfly valves, could have.
For example, its been touted as a cause of high rev misfires (5k rpm +), but at full throttle (which is typically where you will be at that engine speed) is the wear affect really that significant?? Whats the mechanism causing the misfire, AFR presumaby but caused by leakage, vibration?
Im not questioning the logic of it at all, it makes perfect sense to replace the bushes, and indeed the company are happy to do the work if i want them too, and no doubt in time i will get it done, but wanted to understand the specifics of why people have done it.
Rob
Shep
shep1001 said:
Just got mine back from Str8six. Significantly different, drives smoother, more responsive to light inputs to the throttle, better tick over when warm. Has been too wet yesterday & its icy today to give it beans and see if it makes a difference when going for it. Don't want to end up posting like the poor chaps on the last page!!
Shep
What were your symptoms shep? out of tune quickly? hesitant at light throttle?Shep
Good to hear it feels nice. Jason seems to have lead the way with this mod...Hopefully fitting mine Tuesday...
Robertjp said:
shep1001 said:
Just got mine back from Str8six. Significantly different, drives smoother, more responsive to light inputs to the throttle, better tick over when warm. Has been too wet yesterday & its icy today to give it beans and see if it makes a difference when going for it. Don't want to end up posting like the poor chaps on the last page!!
Shep
What were your symptoms shep? out of tune quickly? hesitant at light throttle?Shep
Good to hear it feels nice. Jason seems to have lead the way with this mod...Hopefully fitting mine Tuesday...
Took it out for a blast today in the dry and it pulls like a train all the way to 7K, back to being scary quick!!. I would go as far to say that with such sharp throttle response thats how you get caught out and see the back end coming past your mirror if you are not careful.
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