laying a concrete floor

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thinfourth2

Original Poster:

32,414 posts

205 months

Tuesday 31st August 2010
quotequote all
Got all the kit and have the shuttering up just the question is is it better to lean towards a wet or dry mix if i am wanting a decent finish on the floor

It is only for a greenhouse floor so strength doesn't need to be huge but it will only be about 2inches thick in some places so it can't be too weak.

I laid a bit of it last night and found if it was too dry it was a complete bugger to float so i am tempted to lean towards a wet mix but could this give me problems later on.

Spudler

3,985 posts

197 months

Tuesday 31st August 2010
quotequote all
You can lay it wet, just strengthen it a bit more. 2" in some places?...that just wont work. You need a consistant thickness of about 4+" on a very sound base,(firm clay/hardcore) not soil or bricks broken in half.
Any shortcuts you'll regret next spring.

thinfourth2

Original Poster:

32,414 posts

205 months

Tuesday 31st August 2010
quotequote all
Well it is on very solid base just its not exactly level so its 6" at one end and 2" at the other

And no its not simple to dig it down further as i'm not hiring a JCB with a breaker to get through the rocks

Busamav

2,954 posts

209 months

Tuesday 31st August 2010
quotequote all
If you can lay your hands on any mesh at all it will help the 2" which is far from ideal even for "just" a greenhouse base

thinfourth2

Original Poster:

32,414 posts

205 months

Tuesday 31st August 2010
quotequote all
Cut and in position

Spudler

3,985 posts

197 months

Tuesday 31st August 2010
quotequote all
Ok. Could you raise the shuttering a good inch or so? you could then lay a sheet of reinforcing in to help minimise the likely hood of cracking.

thinfourth2

Original Poster:

32,414 posts

205 months

Tuesday 31st August 2010
quotequote all
Oh for fksake

Okay i have now changed it to 7 foot thick of military grade concrete

Whats the best way to get a decent finsh

Spudler

3,985 posts

197 months

Tuesday 31st August 2010
quotequote all
You know it makes sencesmile. Pour wet in the morning and return late in the day and float with a steel float for a smooth finish.

sleep envy

62,260 posts

250 months

Tuesday 31st August 2010
quotequote all
Make a fat mixture with lots of water, whenit bleeds float it off


Deva Link

26,934 posts

246 months

Tuesday 31st August 2010
quotequote all
thinfourth2 said:
And no its not simple to dig it down further as i'm not hiring a JCB with a breaker to get through the rocks
What about hiring a piling machine? smile

thinfourth2

Original Poster:

32,414 posts

205 months

Tuesday 31st August 2010
quotequote all
Deva Link said:
thinfourth2 said:
And no its not simple to dig it down further as i'm not hiring a JCB with a breaker to get through the rocks
What about hiring a piling machine? smile
Its a greenhouse if the steading next to it hasn't moved in the past few hundred years with no foundations i don't think a few tomatoes are going to cause massive problems

It is actually all the top soil removed and throughly pouned with a big vibrating roller and then sub base added which is then pounded again with a roller so it should be fine.

The ground is comedy hard with even a JCB struggling to dig more then a few feet down

StevieBee

12,967 posts

256 months

Tuesday 31st August 2010
quotequote all
thinfourth2 said:
Oh for fksake

Okay i have now changed it to 7 foot thick of military grade concrete

Whats the best way to get a decent finsh
laugh Joys of the internet mate, every answer you could ever need apart from the correct one!

Best get yourself one of these beauts for the ground work!:


Si 330

1,299 posts

210 months

Tuesday 31st August 2010
quotequote all
The problem is at just 50mm it will crack. Your choice you can stop this from happening now or regret later.


thinfourth2

Original Poster:

32,414 posts

205 months

Tuesday 31st August 2010
quotequote all
Si 330 said:
The problem is at just 50mm it will crack. Your choice you can stop this from happening now or regret later.
its a fkING GREENHOUSE

it built on fking granite rock not your namby pamby english soft squishy stuff

I don't give a flying fk if it cracks

Its a fking greenhouse

I just want to get a better surface finish so when i do the garage with 8" of concrete and rebar i can get is nice and flat

Si 330

1,299 posts

210 months

Tuesday 31st August 2010
quotequote all
thinfourth2 said:
Si 330 said:
The problem is at just 50mm it will crack. Your choice you can stop this from happening now or regret later.
its a fkING GREENHOUSE

it built on fking granite rock not your namby pamby english soft squishy stuff

I don't give a flying fk if it cracks

Its a fking greenhouse

I just want to get a better surface finish so when i do the garage with 8" of concrete and rebar i can get is nice and flat
Garage slab will be more than adequate with 150mm thick slab light mesh such as A142 to control cracking. You go from one extreme to the other, calm down. People give friendly advice and you get all upset.

thinfourth2

Original Poster:

32,414 posts

205 months

Tuesday 31st August 2010
quotequote all
Si 330 said:
thinfourth2 said:
Si 330 said:
The problem is at just 50mm it will crack. Your choice you can stop this from happening now or regret later.
its a fkING GREENHOUSE

it built on fking granite rock not your namby pamby english soft squishy stuff

I don't give a flying fk if it cracks

Its a fking greenhouse

I just want to get a better surface finish so when i do the garage with 8" of concrete and rebar i can get is nice and flat
Garage slab will be more than adequate with 150mm thick slab light mesh such as A142 to control cracking. You go from one extreme to the other, calm down. People give friendly advice and you get all upset.
The garage will have a 2 post lift and some rather large lumps of machinery like a lath and milling machine which i want damn solid

Si 330

1,299 posts

210 months

Tuesday 31st August 2010
quotequote all
Just been a tt

but isn't your "built on fking granite rock not your namby pamby english soft squishy stuff" hard enough to take your garage toys.

deeen

6,081 posts

246 months

Tuesday 31st August 2010
quotequote all
The reason people reccomend minimum 4" is because with less than that, the expansion and contraction of the concrete you lay could be enough to crack it. It's nothing to do with the base underneath.

Mesh will help

The answer to your question is wet

My suggestion which you didn't ask for would be to use a waterproof self-levelling screed inside the greenhouse for the best finish.

thinfourth2

Original Poster:

32,414 posts

205 months

Wednesday 1st September 2010
quotequote all
deeen said:
The reason people reccomend minimum 4" is because with less than that, the expansion and contraction of the concrete you lay could be enough to crack it. It's nothing to do with the base underneath.

Mesh will help

The answer to your question is wet

My suggestion which you didn't ask for would be to use a waterproof self-levelling screed inside the greenhouse for the best finish.
How do you make a self levelling screed?

I have a large pile of gravel and a small pile of sand and a fiesta full of cement bags

(fiesta is currently being used as small mobile garden shed/greenhouse which is great as you can drive your garden shed around the garden to where you need it.)

As to expansion and contraction i am making the base out of small bays with wood strips between them as expansion joints as recommended by my father who has been a builder for years and has always done it that way but is in spain so i can't easily call him

mk1fan

10,532 posts

226 months

Wednesday 1st September 2010
quotequote all
You buy it.