Aston Paint Finish
Discussion
brakedwell said:
yeti said:
What colour? What car? What age? You've got to do a bit better than that...
There is nothing wrong with my paint, 6yrs old and looks great
Mine is 7 years old and looks like new.There is nothing wrong with my paint, 6yrs old and looks great
Agree with commentators above. My Lightning Silver Vantage was delivered swirl free, nearly three years on its still like that. I was told it was soft so have followed a strict regime when cleaning it. Mind, I never let the dealer give it a complimentary scrub just to help keep it like that!
I'm in 'coatings', so like to think we know a reasonable amount . Mine is Quantam, so fairly dark kand as such softer as requires higher pigmentation. It's 12 months old in September.
Wash ot carefully and properly, but believe me, this is softer than say a 911. Lighter colours do not show swirls obviously and require less pigmentation.
Not all final finishes are water based by the way, if they are, they tend to be slightly softer anyhow. Surprised in this case, how soft.
Wash ot carefully and properly, but believe me, this is softer than say a 911. Lighter colours do not show swirls obviously and require less pigmentation.
Not all final finishes are water based by the way, if they are, they tend to be slightly softer anyhow. Surprised in this case, how soft.
I'm not disagreeing with you, but I think the point we're making is that it's manageable.
I've known people that drive crazily close to the car in front then complain about the stone chips, stone chips are a function of the distance from the car in front.
Oddly, people that regularly use a scouring brush car wash tend to be clueless about the finish on their cars, and don't seem to notice the damage they do.
Snow foam, two bucket washing, sensible distance from the cars in front, and avoiding car washes should mean the car will go years without showing damage.
I've known people that drive crazily close to the car in front then complain about the stone chips, stone chips are a function of the distance from the car in front.
Oddly, people that regularly use a scouring brush car wash tend to be clueless about the finish on their cars, and don't seem to notice the damage they do.
Snow foam, two bucket washing, sensible distance from the cars in front, and avoiding car washes should mean the car will go years without showing damage.
Slarti said:
I really should know this. I've heard it mentioned elsewhere. What is the 2 bucket method?
Btw, mine is 6yrs old and the paint work looks like new, a credit to the previous owner.
Two buckets, both with grit guards at the bottom. One with warm soapy water, the other used as a rinse for your sheepskin glove. Btw, mine is 6yrs old and the paint work looks like new, a credit to the previous owner.
Robbo66 said:
...
Not all final finishes are water based by the way, if they are, they tend to be slightly softer anyhow. Surprised in this case, how soft.
Indeed. Companies looking to reduce VOCs don't have to go down the water based route though it is the obvious choice for the big boys.Not all final finishes are water based by the way, if they are, they tend to be slightly softer anyhow. Surprised in this case, how soft.
Trying to get any type of quality on a 2 coat water based finish is nigh on impossible on my lines
As you lot know, I've seen my fair share of different Astons and I have to say that some colours are worse than others. Some are indeed very soft, but others just mask the swirls well. The silvers and whites are best for this. It's always good when people say their car is mint and when you get there, it's clearly not and then they are amazed at the difference after it has been detailed. One of the best looking cars I've detailed was mr rob gt's vantage. That's a wry good colour for hiding swirls. Sadly, mr jase b's db9 is the other end of the spectrum, being painted in "doom blue" and very easy to marr the paint. Looking good now though.
The best way of keeping your cra looking their best is to keep them waxed, so there is less water to mop up, therefore reducing the amount of contact with the paint.
Snowfoam, two bucket wash, open hose rinse to sheet the water off and pat dry with soft drying towels.
That's the best way to wash them.
The best way of keeping your cra looking their best is to keep them waxed, so there is less water to mop up, therefore reducing the amount of contact with the paint.
Snowfoam, two bucket wash, open hose rinse to sheet the water off and pat dry with soft drying towels.
That's the best way to wash them.
If you really want to look after your car, this is the stuff you need:
http://www.bamfordbody.co.uk/travel-gifts/bamfordr...
Makes it go much faster too
http://www.bamfordbody.co.uk/travel-gifts/bamfordr...
Makes it go much faster too
quench said:
paddy328 said:
pat dry with soft drying towels.
Why not reduce contact with the paint to a bare minimum (wash mitt only) and dry with a leaf blower? I've been doing this for a few years and I find it is both faster and safer.quench said:
Why not reduce contact with the paint to a bare minimum (wash mitt only) and dry with a leaf blower? I've been doing this for a few years and I find it is both faster and safer.
Not so good for me in hard water area. I did try a water softener for final rinse, then leave it to dry itself. It worked great for 6 washes before the resin lost its softening ability so I'm back to patting car dry.I also snow foam twice - initial foam, wash wheels with third bucket of water whilst foam works, jet rinse off, then another foam to act as lubricant for the sheepskin glove. Possibly borderline OCD but it works for me
Gassing Station | Aston Martin | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff