Removing S3C Facia

[davedogfish]

Happy new year all. My resolution for 2013 is to get the facia of my S3C veneered (its the single piece full-width variety with the central black plastic bezel for the heater controls). After studying the published words of wisdom of others who have successfully removed S3 facias, I removed seats, centre console and having dropped the steering column, settled down to a morning of relaxation in the footwells. Other than the mandatory severe lacerations to my wrists and forearms all six nyloc nuts holding the facia to the dash were removed surprisingly easily. Just the two 7mm nuts holding the U clamps at the rear of the heater controls to go then! Only these seem to be buried deep in a rectangular aperture in the fubreglass moulding that straddles the transmission tunnel and bulkhead. Tvrgit also appears to have encountered the same problem which he apparently overcame by using blocks of wood to wedge the dash away from the bulkheas brace. I regret that this doesn't work for me though as the amount of rearward movement that I am able to get is still insufficient to get access to the nuts on the back of the heater controls.

Before I resort to releasing the whole dashboard and pulling this backwards (and probably ripping the crash roll on top of the dash in the process) it struck me that some of you guys who have trodden this path before me must have found a simpler solution. If you think that I'm missing the 'bleedin' obvious' in trying to solve this conundrum then I'd be delighted to hear from you.

Assuming I eventually succeed in removing the facia, for refitting I'm minded to adopt Andrew's solution in his Tvrgit diaries and modify the U clamps to mount the heater controls to the newly veneered facia panel only rather than sandwiching dash and facia together.


Many thanks,
Dave

[tvrgit]

Dave

I trawled the forum during one of the times when the search function was actually working, and the common view seemed to be "it's awkward, it's fiddly and your hands will be cut to shreds". Even with the bits of wood, and taking out the oil gauge, it's as fiddly as hell. Believe me, I would have adopted a simpler solution if I could have found one.

[v8s4me]

I think yours is similar the V8S so my recommendation is to locate the screws which hold the main moulding and pull off the whole lot. This isn’t as hard as it sounds and will make removing the dash and heater controls a lot easier. You’ll also be able to get a lot of other jobs done behind there as well eg putting brighter bulbs in the instruments, with the big moulding out of the way. I’d also recommend making a cradle support for the steering column so that it’s not supported just by the bearing.

This was my experience

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Good luck

[davedogfish]

Thanks guys, really appreciate your help. I sat bolt upright in bed last night suddenly realising that I needed to release the 10mm fixings holding the bottom of the dash to the brackets at the outer side of each footwell. Did this and hey presto, the dash now flexes out sufficiently for me to see the nuts holding the 2 U clamps securing the heater controls. All I now need to do is wedge the dash out with some 2"x 2" wood rummage through my collection of small open-enders and offer up my hands and wrists to the great god Trevor.

Thanks again
Dave

[v8s4me]

Seriously, I would really think about removing the whole dash moulding as you’ll find it much easier to get at all the nuts and screws. You’ve already undone the side brackets so all you need to do now is remove the screws which hold the underside of the moulding to the tub (underneath windscreen). There will be between two and four depending on how many the TVR fitter could be bothered to put in. Remember, you’ve got to put it all back together again and I can promise you fitting the veneered panel to the moulding and then fitting the moulding to the tub is the easiest way to do it.

[foot2firewall]

Slightly off topic, does anyone have any experience of using this as a lower cost alternative to having the dashboard re-veneered:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-DI-NOC-FILM-VINYL-WG-...

[v8s4me]

I’m not sure if it was the same product but someone on here has used vinyl. It was very effective even having a “grain” and very easy to mistake for the real thing from outside the car.

[tvrgit]

Back to the "TVR Diaries" guys!

I used that same stuff (I'm sure it was), but in a "red cedar" finish.





It's a bit lighter than the original, but I like it.

Full details on how I did it are here: http://www.andrewc.org.uk/tvrgit/dashpanels.html

[DelboyH]

foot2firewall said:

Slightly off topic, does anyone have any experience of using this as a lower cost alternative to having the dashboard re-veneered:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-DI-NOC-FILM-VINYL-WG-...

There was an earlier thread on a similar subject here: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I got a copy of the .jpg that Steve (seb400) mentioned in that thread. I took it to a local print company who do vehicle wraps amongst other things, and they printed me out 2 full size copies with a high gloss lamination for the princely sum of £30.00. I haven't had the chance to fit it yet but it certainly looks good and the print company assure me that its easy to apply and sticks like sh*t to a blanket.

[davedogfish]

Joe,

Sorry, I had my hand stuck up behind the dash when you replied suggesting that releasing the whole dash moulding is the most sensible approach. Whilst I did manage to remove the facia this pm using Andrew's wooden block approach The thought of trying to get 7mm nuts started on their threads using only one finger has made me reappraise. I'll remove the screws and slide the moulding back once the dash and trim are back from being veneered. My only concern is the possibility of an overzealous application of mastic if/when the screen has been replaced at some time. I guess the sound of ripping vinyl will be the big giveaway!

I'm off now to compare the quality and prices of veneering from Chapman & Cliff, London Carriage Craft and Classical Dash then despatch the offending articles to the preferred supplier. Probably then spend the few weeks tidying wiring and electrics whilst awaiting the return of the trim then I guess its "teabreak over - back on my head".

Thanks again,
Dave

[v8s4me]

Very wise. Once you’ve spent the sort of money you’re thinking of spending you will not want to crack the new veneer by bending the steel panel. I’d also recommend grinding down the edges of the steel panel so it is a nice slide fit in and out of the moulding so you don’t have to force anything and risk chipping the veneer on the edges.

Using wing nuts where possible will help when you're putting the panel back on.

[tvrgit]

v8s4me said:

Using wing nuts where possible will help when you're putting the panel back on.

Yep - they are easier to start on the thread, and easier to tighten when you can only just get a fingertip near them.

[foot2firewall]

Thanks for the replies and the links to the previous topics and dash removal experiences. Dave, I'd be interested in your feedback on the various veneering companies.

[v8s4me]

tvrgit said:

Yep - they are easier to start on the thread, and easier to tighten when you can only just get a fingertip near them.

Perfect for the door panels as well.

[davedogfish]

Quotes from Chapman and Cliff and Classical Dash for veneering and varnishing dash, switch panel and door strakes are very similar and competitive at circa £370 inclusive of carriage and VAT. London Carriage Craft are quoting more than £500 to do the same though! Not sure whether there is a very significant quality advantage of the LCC product or whether the differential just reflects the need to cover London business rates and salaries. Unless someone advises me otherwise the panels will be off to C&C or Classical Dash on Monday.

Joe, dash moulding now released from the tub after removing three (in my case) easily accessible phillips screws - looking at the space I would have had to work with, other than satisfying my masochistic tendencies, I don't know why I didn't do this in the first place! Thanks for your help.

[foot2firewall]

davedogfish said:

Quotes from Chapman and Cliff and Classical Dash for veneering and varnishing dash, switch panel and door strakes are very similar and competitive at circa £370 inclusive of carriage and VAT. London Carriage Craft are quoting more than £500 to do the same though! Not sure whether there is a very significant quality advantage of the LCC product or whether the differential just reflects the need to cover London business rates and salaries. Unless someone advises me otherwise the panels will be off to C&C or Classical Dash on Monday.

Joe, dash moulding now released from the tub after removing three (in my case) easily accessible phillips screws - looking at the space I would have had to work with, other than satisfying my masochistic tendencies, I don't know why I didn't do this in the first place! Thanks for your help.

I removed the dash at the weekend and am now ready to get it re-veneered - any recommendations or feedback on whichever company you chose to do the work?

[davedogfish]

I chose Chapman and Cliff in the end - excellent reputation and most competitive price. The facia, switch panel and door trims were sent to them three weeks ago with a quoted five weeks to complete so I'm not expecting to receive them back until the second week of February. I'm using the time to do numerous other jobs which really needed the dash out to do properly (tidying wiring, replacing all nuts, bolts and washers with stainless and respraying the centre console). Rest assured I'll post an update when the facia etc. are back from C&C.

[foot2firewall]

davedogfish said:

I chose Chapman and Cliff in the end - excellent reputation and most competitive price. The facia, switch panel and door trims were sent to them three weeks ago with a quoted five weeks to complete so I'm not expecting to receive them back until the second week of February. I'm using the time to do numerous other jobs which really needed the dash out to do properly (tidying wiring, replacing all nuts, bolts and washers with stainless and respraying the centre console). Rest assured I'll post an update when the facia etc. are back from C&C.

No worries, I know what you mean about the wiring - I found another small bank of fuses and some wiring that seems to go nowewhere, all of which will most likely be the subject of a separate post once I've had a closer look at it all! I'm also going to take the opportunity to replace all the non working instrument lighting. I did want to go down the LED route, but that looks like quite an expensive option.

[party7]

foot2firewall said:

No worries, I know what you mean about the wiring - I found another small bank of fuses and some wiring that seems to go nowewhere, all of which will most likely be the subject of a separate post once I've had a closer look at it all! I'm also going to take the opportunity to replace all the non working instrument lighting. I did want to go down the LED route, but that looks like quite an expensive option.

I had my dash out a couple of months ago, whilst out I took the opportunity to replace the instruments bulbs with LED ones. I used these in green. They are a direct replacement for the existing bulbs and at approx 13p each not expensive.
The bulb for the clock is slightly different from the other instruments, you need a green LED type BA9 T4W 233 available from the same supplier.
The LED's make a big improvement to the illumination, I can actually read all the gauges at night now!

Edited by party7 on Monday 28th January 23:27

[Sandgrounder]

Gary (Party7), is your car an S3? If so, was your facia removal procedure the same as described by Tvrgit above?

I am a little bit daunted by the challenge, but would love to get my painted metal dash looking more like walnut. And replace all bulbs, etc....

Thanks,

Graham