Bought a Celica GT-Four yesterday!
Discussion
...and the journey home was rather enjoyable- aside from everyone trying to race at the lights (it's a red one with the high rise spoiler, so I feel quite conspicuous when driving!)
One thing that struck me was that it didn't feel that fast compared to other quick cars that I've driven (or as the figures would suggest), but it does currently have an error code showing- code 54 charge cooler level sensor.
I had put part of the slightly slow feel down to the refinement, but I'm fairly sure it isn't making the full power due to the error code. Does this sound about right? I know a lot of owners with the problem bridge the sensor and check the level themselves instead- does this sound like a good idea?
Edited to change that I've checked and it does have the correct coolant in the charge cooler!
One thing that struck me was that it didn't feel that fast compared to other quick cars that I've driven (or as the figures would suggest), but it does currently have an error code showing- code 54 charge cooler level sensor.
I had put part of the slightly slow feel down to the refinement, but I'm fairly sure it isn't making the full power due to the error code. Does this sound about right? I know a lot of owners with the problem bridge the sensor and check the level themselves instead- does this sound like a good idea?
Edited to change that I've checked and it does have the correct coolant in the charge cooler!
Edited by Twincharged on Sunday 24th May 09:32
A code 54 will put the car in limp mode, so no, you won't have full boost.
I have to ask why you bought a car with a CEL?
1st step - clear the codes (pull the ECU fuse for 10 mins).
Then drive it. If the code comes back, go out and buy some toyota red coolant.
Open bonnet **with cold engine**, take chargecooler cap off. Switch on engine. When you blip the throttle the pumps will run and the level will drop. Run the engine (you may need a friend) and a couple of thousand RPM and fill the chargecooler with the red coolant. Replace cap, have friend drop revs to idle. Turn the engine off and clear the codes.
Go for a drive. If it comes back you have a knackered chargecooler level sensor - which isn't hugely uncommon.
You can fix it or you can just bridge the sensor and check the CC fluid level every couple of weeks. Most of the GT4OC boys go for "bridge the sensor".
May be of further reading interest;
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=2313...
Good car by the way, and the correct colour. I passed on the spoiler...
I have to ask why you bought a car with a CEL?
1st step - clear the codes (pull the ECU fuse for 10 mins).
Then drive it. If the code comes back, go out and buy some toyota red coolant.
Open bonnet **with cold engine**, take chargecooler cap off. Switch on engine. When you blip the throttle the pumps will run and the level will drop. Run the engine (you may need a friend) and a couple of thousand RPM and fill the chargecooler with the red coolant. Replace cap, have friend drop revs to idle. Turn the engine off and clear the codes.
Go for a drive. If it comes back you have a knackered chargecooler level sensor - which isn't hugely uncommon.
You can fix it or you can just bridge the sensor and check the CC fluid level every couple of weeks. Most of the GT4OC boys go for "bridge the sensor".
May be of further reading interest;
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=2313...
Good car by the way, and the correct colour. I passed on the spoiler...
I had even taken the requisite paperclip to check the engine codes, but the owner agreed he'd knock a few hundred off the price. Knowing that the 54 is a common problem was a comfort too. The rest of the car is spot on though- checked the fig 8s (one side new, other side perfectly OK) 4 new tyres, low mileage,immaculate interior, new brakes and pads (brand new never used), just serviced- all in all a steal. I did do the chargecooler water pump check before, and I checked the levels so it's definitely just the sensor by the looks of things. I wouldn't want to do a pikey fix that merely hides the underlying problem! The buyer's guides I used were the ones off GT4OC which were very detailed, and did all the history checks (MOT history and the usual police/VCar register)
I did also think you would be the one to reply- I've admired your GT4 in the many hours I've been looking for a straight UK car (which has taken me about a year!) but thought I'd best throw it open to the floor.
As for the spolier, I didn't think I'd like it and originally thought I'd sell the raiser blocks (especially given that they go for quite a lot!) but on the drive home it was quite nice to see it in the rear view mirror, and it affords a good field of view which might be affected by the lower one (or so I keep telling myself!)
ETA: Once the level has dropped, do you fill it so that it returns to just under overflowing at idle?
Edit again: Turns out that forum topic has been copied and put into the .pdf file on GT4OC, so all of that is familiar! I have tried removing the ECU fuse and the light isn't on initially but comes on a few seconds later, so it appears its picking the error up again. I'll get some coolant and top up and go from there.
I did also think you would be the one to reply- I've admired your GT4 in the many hours I've been looking for a straight UK car (which has taken me about a year!) but thought I'd best throw it open to the floor.
As for the spolier, I didn't think I'd like it and originally thought I'd sell the raiser blocks (especially given that they go for quite a lot!) but on the drive home it was quite nice to see it in the rear view mirror, and it affords a good field of view which might be affected by the lower one (or so I keep telling myself!)
ETA: Once the level has dropped, do you fill it so that it returns to just under overflowing at idle?
Edit again: Turns out that forum topic has been copied and put into the .pdf file on GT4OC, so all of that is familiar! I have tried removing the ECU fuse and the light isn't on initially but comes on a few seconds later, so it appears its picking the error up again. I'll get some coolant and top up and go from there.
Edited by Twincharged on Sunday 24th May 15:43
Nice choice of car. These GT4s are often overlooked as an alternative to the more usual Evo or Scoobies. I know what you mean about heros at the lights. I had a nobber in a fiesta zetec S try to "do" me at the lights today. What he failed to notice was the scamera van parked up the road about 500 yards. I find I tend to look much further ahead since I've had the scoob.
Edited by scoobydude on Sunday 24th May 15:55
Cheers Mr E!
scoobydude said:
Nice choice of car. These GT4s are often overlooked as an alternative to the more usual Evo or Scoobies. I know what you mean about heros at the lights. I had a nobber in a fiesta zetec S try to "do" me at the lights today. What he failed to notice was the scamera van parked up the road about 500 yards. I find I tend to look much further ahead since I've had the scoob.
Yeah, I liked it because it was a bit different and much cheaper on insurance too. One of the main culprits yesterday was in a SL350 with the top down and his missus in the passenger seat who felt the need to gun away from the lights it to show that he could beat that lad in the red car with the big spoiler (in city centre traffic no less). Meanwhile, I pootled along trying to decide which of the next two turn offs I needed to take...Edited by scoobydude on Sunday 24th May 15:55
simple trick to refill charge cooler failure box on the celica gtfour 185 / rc/cs or st205 is to use a funnel that fits tightly into the filling neck, that way you can fill just over and bleed all the air out while blip'ing throttle activating charge cooler pump, seen far to many that are not filled correctly causing error code.
As for speed none of the celcia gt4 are super fast in stock trim ,civic type R will destroy.
most owners install ebc over driving turbo nuking engine overtime, most get abused with little proper maintenance leading to major engine problems later.whatch out for the DIY'er maintained four , seem's most are clueless working on performance cars only getting sold later with hidden problems, certainly very cheap to buy but expensive to maintain using oem parts etc.
find gt4 oc a little to chav these days much miss guided info, best place for good info is gtfours.co.uk and its free.
you don't want to drive around in limp mode to long.
good luck hope you get it sorted.
As for speed none of the celcia gt4 are super fast in stock trim ,civic type R will destroy.
most owners install ebc over driving turbo nuking engine overtime, most get abused with little proper maintenance leading to major engine problems later.whatch out for the DIY'er maintained four , seem's most are clueless working on performance cars only getting sold later with hidden problems, certainly very cheap to buy but expensive to maintain using oem parts etc.
find gt4 oc a little to chav these days much miss guided info, best place for good info is gtfours.co.uk and its free.
you don't want to drive around in limp mode to long.
good luck hope you get it sorted.
Wadeski said:
just out of interest, if you are a member of a few GT4 OCs, how much do the chargecooler cores and pipework go for when people part out their Celicas?
I'm thinking of fitting one to my MR2
Full setup here for £150 Wadey http://www.tbdevelopments.com/forum/viewtopic.php?...I'm thinking of fitting one to my MR2
marf, although I've tried to sign up to tbdev a couple of times, it never actually completes....i think its a problem at their end (they have to approve signups AFAIK and I'm guessing there is no one there to do so!)
can you copy / paste here?
I'm talking to two chappies on GT4OC about their chargewarmers at the moment, but they are £170 and they arent sure about some of the details like throttle socks etc!
cheers
can you copy / paste here?
I'm talking to two chappies on GT4OC about their chargewarmers at the moment, but they are £170 and they arent sure about some of the details like throttle socks etc!
cheers
dale on tbdev said:
as above, complete charge cooler setup off a st205 gtfour, all in good working order when came off the car, the cc radiator, the charge cooler and the pump all present.
charge cooler unit in perfect order on outside and fins all perfect on the inside and very clean. radiator in good condition, just the usual stone dints but no leaks or anything, all wrapped up at present.
£250 for the lot, situated in lincolnshire
cheers!
dale
charge cooler unit in perfect order on outside and fins all perfect on the inside and very clean. radiator in good condition, just the usual stone dints but no leaks or anything, all wrapped up at present.
£250 for the lot, situated in lincolnshire
cheers!
dale
dale on tbdev said:
price down to
£150 ono
dale
He doesn't mention the throttle sock or anything. The route you're going down talking to the bods on the GT4OC is probably the best way. I got my setup from a guy on there who had basically a whole car in bits so I got the bolts, throttle sock, throttle cable adapter etc.£150 ono
dale
Update: I've topped up the chargecooler as suggested (i.e. with some throttle at the same time) and the light has gone off so it is the coolant rather than the sensor. It did it again the next day and did the same again, so there was clearly some air in it that had bubbled to the surface.
One thing that this did teach me was that it's well worth having the chargecooler coolant sensor, as it had brought up an error code when the visual inspection seemed to suggest everything was fine. Therefore bridging it and checking yourself isn't really an option. I checked with a dealer and the sensor is £78+ vat, so not astronomical for the type of car really.
One thing that this did teach me was that it's well worth having the chargecooler coolant sensor, as it had brought up an error code when the visual inspection seemed to suggest everything was fine. Therefore bridging it and checking yourself isn't really an option. I checked with a dealer and the sensor is £78+ vat, so not astronomical for the type of car really.
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