£5k to spend.. must be jap
£5k to spend.. must be jap
Author
Discussion

Wadeski

8,899 posts

239 months

Friday 13th November 2009
quotequote all
Celica GT4, Civic Type-R, Nissan 200SX would all be good options. I wouldnt want a barge on a track, unless it was overpowered and RWD for drifty nonsense.

Plus a barge in London is a git to park. I wouldnt get something bigger than a 3 series unless i had to.

sparkyhx

4,200 posts

230 months

Friday 13th November 2009
quotequote all
TotalControl said:
sparkyhx said:
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?p=5002118#p...

450bhp 200sx - over 10k spent on it.

billy bargain
Need to sign up for that.
It really pains me to do this but it’s time to sell my S14. I have 2 other S13s (1 road and 1 track day car) and I’m building a 230PS Supercharged 2.0l XE Caterham type kit car.

I managed to keep hold of it for the last year (since I last advertised it here http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=377927) but now it needs to go. Apparently you can have, “TOO MANY xxxxxx CARS!”

I used some of the pics from last year but added a few of the dyno plots, NOS, new brakes, mileage and I also recently changed peelly D/S wing. Since last year I’ve also sorted the interior bits. The car has only done 3k in this time and it looks the same.

Basic Vehicle Spec
1994 S14 Touring (UK Car)
Mileage 126k
MOT Until April 2010
Tax until End-Dec 2009.
History – Old MOTs, regularly serviced with 10W50 Silkolene Pro-S. Fluid levels checked regularly. Last Service @ 122k.
Electrics – all work including the Airbags, ABS, etc…

Performance (Dyno Proven on 27th October 2009 plots below)
434BHP/6556rpm & 412lbft/4851rpm @ 1.7bar with 25bhp NOS to 7000rpm
407BHP/6665rpm & 374lbft/4975rpm @ 1.7bar without NOS
NOS Antilag from 2000rpm to 1bar controlled by pressure switch. Selectable so can run NOS to 1.7Bar and max rpm. Knocks 500rpm off the lag, making it feel like a big V8 between 2000-3500rpm – Plots show +30lbft @ 2500rpm, +50lbft @3000rpm, +75lbft @ 3500rpm, +80lbft @ 4000rpm.
EGTs below 900degs on Dyno, Injector duty ~70%, no det using detcans bolted to head. There was no smoke on dyno and the cooling pack and fans easily coped with runs.

Modifications (Total Cost £10,000 new)

Engine
Standard Engine - never opened. Good even compression on all cylinders. Always warmed up and idled before switch off. Only Run on 99 RON Optimax. Bore Scope used to check piston crowns and bores, etc... with no issues.

• Apex Super Hybrid 400BHP Turbo (GT2876R)
• 0.86A/R Turbine Housing - port matched to Manifold
• Tubular Stainless Steel 4 branch manifold port matched to head and turbo.
• New downpipe and elbow gaskets 1500miles ago.
• Forge Actuator with 3 springs running 18psi spring.
• Braided turbo oil and water hoses
• Spare 0.64 A/R Turbine Housing good for up to 350BHP.
• Denso IK27 Plugs
• Skyline Fuel pump good for ~450BHP
• FSE Adjustable FPR
• Nismo 555 injectors
• Jun 264deg Exhaust Cam - fitted with new Nissan rocker arms
• Toda 264deg Inlet Cam maintaining NVCS for more mid range torque - fitted with new Nissan rocker arms
• Larger 60mm throttle from SR20
• Mocal oil coiler, braided lines and thermostat take-off plate
• Radiator with Electric fans fitted.
• Stainless Steel Catch Can - 2x 15mm inlets and vent filter.

NOS System (£900 new)
• Wizards of Nos Minimax NOS Progressive Controller meaning the Nos comes in from 50% duty over 2 secs. This make the delivery very progressive.
• 10lbs Bootle
• Quick Release Bottle Bracket/Carrier
• Remote Bottle Opener
• Bottle Heater with Sensor meaning constant NOS pressure and therefore delivery.
• ERL Pressure Switch (turns NOS off between 0-30psi)
• NOS and Fuel Solenoids
• Combined NOS and fuel fogger in cool pipe before T/B fitted in TIG welded boss.
• Various Jets up to 200bhp, but I’ve never used more than the 25bhp jets, even though it was very tempting…
• Toggle Switches for Arming System, Bottle Opener, Bottle Warmer and Pressure override under stereo
• Comparing the plots you can see the NOS delivery is very good with stable AFR and no misfire. The slight lean excursion it due to the UEGO sensor or the 50%/2sec ramp in of NOS and fuel.

Gearbox (changed for Recon @ 80k)
• Short shifter
• Heavy Duty Clutch Cover with Nissan Plate - NEVER slips.

Exhaust
• Tubular Stainless Steel 4 branch manifold port matched to head and turbo.
• New downpipe and elbow gaskets 2000miles ago.
• Apex 3" turbo Elbow
• Apex 3" front pipe
• Apex 3” Decat
• HKS Silent Power Cat back Exhaust.

Intake
• Apexi Powerflow Airfilter good for 450BHP
• Custom Z32 intake
• Z32 MAF good for ~500BHP
• HKS recirc Sequential Dump Valve
• Custom 62mm Intercooler hot pipe replacing Greddy pipe work giving +15BHP
• Greddy Intercooler + Cold Pipe (spare Greddy through wing hot pipe)
• Small Varta Battery

Electronics• Power FC + In Car Controller + Controller Holder
• EVC 4 Boost Controller

Interior• Racing pedals
• Sparco gearknob
• Kenwood CD Player
• JBL Rear Speakers

Suspension• Cusco Carbon front strut brace
• KYB AGX front Shocks
• Eibach lowering springs
• Tein Front Camber plates
• WHITELINE adjustable rear anti roll bar
• Koni Adjustable rear shocks
• Rear Rose Jointed Camber Arms
• FRONT roll centre correction Ball joints fitted to lower arms
• REAR roll centre correction Ball Joints fitted to lower arms
• Front Lower Arm Poly bushes
• Front Tension Rod Poly bushes
• Apex Rear Subframe collars
• Roll Steer Correction Rod ends
• Poly rack bushes
• Wheels Tyres and Brakes
• OZ SuperTurismo 18x8J ET35 alloy wheels
• Conti Sport Contact 2 Tyres
• 225/40R18 Front & 245/40R18 Rear with Good Thread

Brakes
• DBPower 345mm Brembo Front Brake kit Fitted 500miles ago
• Ferodo Fast Road Front pads
• Rear Pads Mintex Extreme (spare set with car)

I’ve had the car for nearly 4 years/25k miles. Prior to that it’s been owned by two other SXOC members (Pops & Crispyscrump). In that time I’ve modified the car from ~250PS to 434PS. A lot of the parts were already fitted to the car when I bought it. I then added the bits I needed to get to this level. I’m a Automotive Engineer working at Ford in Essex. My job is vehicle performance and fuel economy so I know what works and what doesn’t and I’ve used the knowledge and resources available to me to get the car to this level. The mapping has been done by me and the guys responsible for Focus ‘ST’ & ‘RS’ calibrations so it is spot on and safe. Using the performance where I can it returns 28-30mpg on my daily commute, so it’s pretty economical as well. For the last two years I’ve had the car on a 3000miles per annum policy, using it less often but still on the daily commute where it’s never let me down.

I’ve mapped the engine up to 1.8bar but I run 1.7bar or 1.4bar in the wet. At the recent dyno session it didn’t smoke and the map was confirmed to be spot on giving very stable AFR. The mapping took months of logging PowerFC data and AFR (with Wide band Lambda) on the way to work, changing the map and the same on the way home. Then trips on quiet A roads for some prolonged WOT checking EGTs. We finally finished the map at Snetterton. We also logged fuel rail pressure, pre-turbine pressure, compressor outlet temp and manifold inlet temp to make sure the component set was right. The WOT map goes from 12.5:1 to 11:1 at the top end. The cruise map is up to 15.5:1 to improve fuel economy.
90% of the time was sent getting part throttle right. That's the only way to get good fuel economy and smooth delivery. WOT is relatively easy in comparison.

I have also performance tested the car using very accurate GPS measurement equipment and it has as fast acceleration as a 520BHP R33 GTR and Ferrari F430. I have the data to prove this. The car is VERY quick and not for the inexperienced, with wheel spin in a straight line in 3rd gear in the dry if you are clumsy with the throttle. Peak boost on the road in 5th is from 3500rpm( with NOS)-4000rpm and due to the cams it doesn’t run out of steam until the rev limit @ 7250rpm. On dyno peak boost was around 4500rpm due to the lower loads.

Handling is excellent. It’s been on the track twice and apart from fast Caterhams and Radials nothing could stay with it. It is setup for grip, not drifting but when it lets go it is progressive and easy to recover. The ride is pretty hard, but I like that. I have also corrected the geometry after lowering with front and rear roll centre correction ball joints, and front and rear camber adjustment. I’ve poly bushed and rose jointed a lot of the suspension so it is direct without the vagueness that many 200SXs suffer from.

The 345mm brakes are really good with ‘fast road’ ferodo pads. They give good progression and feedback and work well when cold and are fade free.

You can see from the pictures that the car is not a ‘show’ car. The point of this car is performance, grip and reliability as I use it regularly for work. The bodywork has a few scratches and dents and some lacquer on the bonnet, which I have touched in with a lacquer pen to stop it getting any worse.

I chose the Continental Sport Contact 2 tyres as they give great traction and grip in the dry and are progressive in the wet, no bargain rubber here! The wheels need a refurb’ but it has never bothered me. All wheels have kerb marks and some have nicks out of the rim. (I have high res’ pics on request). These are rallycar alloys so are super strong and have been like this since I’ve owned the car. I’ve changed the tyres a few times and they always balanced up fine.

The NOS kit was fitted to win a bet. I’ve only used one 10lbs bottle and I used it with 25BHP jets as a Nitrous Anti-Lag system to spin up the turbo. The bottle fitted now is about 75% full. It basically makes the turbo spin up quicker and knocks 500rpm off the boost response bringing it down to 3500rpm. I needed it to match the low rpm performance of my mates R33 GTR with 520PS, which it did quite nicely…! It basically makes the car feel like a big capacity V8 from 2000rpm. Then boost builds up to a preset limit (e.g. 15psi) and then the NOS turns off. This means it uses very little NOS. There is also an override so you can run NOS to the rev limit for the full monty. The NOS bottle is fitted in the boot replacing the spare wheel.

I’ve found it really tricky to value the car. The modified parts if bought new would cost £10,000 and I could break the car for at least £6-7000. I don’t want to break it though as I’ve spent many hours getting it where it is. I’d rather keep it on the road and let another enthusiast enjoy it.

So I’m asking £4495ono with the NOS fitted.

That’s a lot of performance for the money, in fact look in EVO Knowledge at what cars have ~350BHP/tonne. (F430 342bhp/tonne, Gallardo 343bhp/tonne, 911 GT3 (996) 339bhp/tonne)

I’m happy for people to view the car during the day near Basildon, Essex or any evening after 5pm or at weekends in Gravesend, Kent. I’ll also happy to do passenger rides to show the performance. You can contact via PM or Tel: 07733-481680 or Email: richteabisc@yahoo.com

There are lots of spares with the car. Including 4 worn 225/40R18 tyres, spare plugs, 3 spare coil packs, original Greddy Hot pipe, AC compressor,pipework & condenser which have been removed but I’m happy to refit if required, standard suspension arms, etc… These and anything else I can find are all included.

Thanks for looking, Rich.

fildigger

1,095 posts

231 months

Friday 13th November 2009
quotequote all
You are under selling your Car !........More Info' Needed rolleyes

RASTIVL

10 posts

200 months

Wednesday 18th November 2009
quotequote all
FOR 5GRAND A STARLET MATE AND THATS PUSHING IT , YOU WILL HAVETO PAY OUT IN THE FIRST 2YEARS 4 GRAND ON ANY TURBO JAP CAR IF IT COST YOU LESS THAN 8 GRAND TRUST ME IVE BEEN THERE, GET A VW IF YOU WANT A EASY LIFE OR IGNOR ME ITS JUST MY OPINION .
CHEERS

Munter

31,331 posts

267 months

Wednesday 18th November 2009
quotequote all
^^^ Where did that load of bks come from.

Shinobi

5,129 posts

216 months

Wednesday 18th November 2009
quotequote all
RASTIVL said:
FOR 5GRAND A STARLET MATE AND THATS PUSHING IT , YOU WILL HAVETO PAY OUT IN THE FIRST 2YEARS 4 GRAND ON ANY TURBO JAP CAR IF IT COST YOU LESS THAN 8 GRAND TRUST ME IVE BEEN THERE, GET A VW IF YOU WANT A EASY LIFE OR IGNOR ME ITS JUST MY OPINION .
CHEERS
Braap Braap

Marf

22,907 posts

267 months

Wednesday 18th November 2009
quotequote all
Shinobi said:
RASTIVL said:
FOR 5GRAND A STARLET MATE AND THATS PUSHING IT , YOU WILL HAVETO PAY OUT IN THE FIRST 2YEARS 4 GRAND ON ANY TURBO JAP CAR IF IT COST YOU LESS THAN 8 GRAND TRUST ME IVE BEEN THERE, GET A VW IF YOU WANT A EASY LIFE OR IGNOR ME ITS JUST MY OPINION .
CHEERS
Braap Braap
Innit.


vz-r_dave

3,469 posts

244 months

Wednesday 18th November 2009
quotequote all
fildigger said:
You are under selling your Car !........More Info' Needed rolleyes
Honestly though, it is a very good deal imo.


Marf

22,907 posts

267 months

Wednesday 18th November 2009
quotequote all
fildigger said:
You are under selling your Car !........More Info' Needed rolleyes
Its not his car, he's just copy/pasted the advert from SXOC

vz-r_dave said:
Honestly though, it is a very good deal imo.
Its alot of performance for the money, surprised its on the stock engine though, I didnt think the SR20 was that tough in OE trim.

Edited by Marf on Wednesday 18th November 22:02

rsstman

1,918 posts

213 months

Wednesday 18th November 2009
quotequote all
RASTIVL said:
FOR 5GRAND A STARLET MATE AND THATS PUSHING IT , YOU WILL HAVETO PAY OUT IN THE FIRST 2YEARS 4 GRAND ON ANY TURBO JAP CAR IF IT COST YOU LESS THAN 8 GRAND TRUST ME IVE BEEN THERE, GET A VW IF YOU WANT A EASY LIFE OR IGNOR ME ITS JUST MY OPINION .
CHEERS
you have owned every turbo jap car worth under £8000? and you had to spend £4000 on all of them? did you take out a mortgage?
so a turbo jap car worth £9000 is ok then?

chuntington101

5,733 posts

262 months

Thursday 19th November 2009
quotequote all
vz-r_dave said:
fildigger said:
You are under selling your Car !........More Info' Needed rolleyes
Honestly though, it is a very good deal imo.
Im with you on that one. Looks like your getting alot for your money. and if you wanted to push the car harder it again looks like the bases are covered upto about 450bhp (fuel pump). Ok you may need/want forged internals to get there but its do-able.

Is that much power common with stock internals on these engines????

Chris.

RASTIVL

10 posts

200 months

Thursday 19th November 2009
quotequote all
this is all going on you want a good car that will be with you for years .£8000 or more will get you a better standard of car duhh and that would normaly be because the person who owned it previously would of taken care of it ?, not like people who push there money to buy cars they cant aford to maintain such as jap cars under £5000 , but what do i know, compared to you guyes . cheers

Marf

22,907 posts

267 months

Thursday 19th November 2009
quotequote all
RASTIVL said:
this is all going on you want a good car that will be with you for years .£8000 or more will get you a better standard of car duhh and that would normaly be because the person who owned it previously would of taken care of it ?, not like people who push there money to buy cars they cant aford to maintain such as jap cars under £5000 , but what do i know, compared to you guyes . cheers
The only reason your post got picked on is because it was a concrete generalisation with no basis in reality. wink

I've owned an 1995 MR2 Turbo for around 18 months now, and have spent around £500 in repairs(necesary and stuff that didnt need doing but annoyed me), £350 on necessary maintenance, and about £1500 on upgrades.

Its been far and away the most reliable car I've owned, and it cost me the princely sum of £3400.

Edited by Marf on Thursday 19th November 17:22

Munter

31,331 posts

267 months

Thursday 19th November 2009
quotequote all
RASTIVL said:
but what do i know, compared to you guyes . cheers
Not a lot apparently.

I mean I'm hardly likely to take advise from someone who can't even use a keyboard am I.

RobCrezz

7,892 posts

234 months

Friday 20th November 2009
quotequote all
Marf said:
RASTIVL said:
this is all going on you want a good car that will be with you for years .£8000 or more will get you a better standard of car duhh and that would normaly be because the person who owned it previously would of taken care of it ?, not like people who push there money to buy cars they cant aford to maintain such as jap cars under £5000 , but what do i know, compared to you guyes . cheers
The only reason your post got picked on is because it was a concrete generalisation with no basis in reality. wink

I've owned an 1995 MR2 Turbo for around 18 months now, and have spent around £500 in repairs(necesary and stuff that didnt need doing but annoyed me), £350 on necessary maintenance, and about £1500 on upgrades.

Its been far and away the most reliable car I've owned, and it cost me the princely sum of £3400.

Edited by Marf on Thursday 19th November 17:22
+1 give or take a couple of £100

Considering the power, my MR2 turbo has been very reliable.

fildigger

1,095 posts

231 months

Saturday 21st November 2009
quotequote all
"Must Be Jap'"...............For the a Very Good & Obvious Reason!






nellyandruby

41 posts

203 months

Monday 23rd November 2009
quotequote all
sparkyhx said:
TotalControl said:
sparkyhx said:
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?p=5002118#p...

450bhp 200sx - over 10k spent on it.

billy bargain
Need to sign up for that.
It really pains me to do this but it’s time to sell my S14. I have 2 other S13s (1 road and 1 track day car) and I’m building a 230PS Supercharged 2.0l XE Caterham type kit car.

I managed to keep hold of it for the last year (since I last advertised it here http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=377927) but now it needs to go. Apparently you can have, “TOO MANY xxxxxx CARS!”

I used some of the pics from last year but added a few of the dyno plots, NOS, new brakes, mileage and I also recently changed peelly D/S wing. Since last year I’ve also sorted the interior bits. The car has only done 3k in this time and it looks the same.

Basic Vehicle Spec
1994 S14 Touring (UK Car)
Mileage 126k
MOT Until April 2010
Tax until End-Dec 2009.
History – Old MOTs, regularly serviced with 10W50 Silkolene Pro-S. Fluid levels checked regularly. Last Service @ 122k.
Electrics – all work including the Airbags, ABS, etc…

Performance (Dyno Proven on 27th October 2009 plots below)
434BHP/6556rpm & 412lbft/4851rpm @ 1.7bar with 25bhp NOS to 7000rpm
407BHP/6665rpm & 374lbft/4975rpm @ 1.7bar without NOS
NOS Antilag from 2000rpm to 1bar controlled by pressure switch. Selectable so can run NOS to 1.7Bar and max rpm. Knocks 500rpm off the lag, making it feel like a big V8 between 2000-3500rpm – Plots show +30lbft @ 2500rpm, +50lbft @3000rpm, +75lbft @ 3500rpm, +80lbft @ 4000rpm.
EGTs below 900degs on Dyno, Injector duty ~70%, no det using detcans bolted to head. There was no smoke on dyno and the cooling pack and fans easily coped with runs.

Modifications (Total Cost £10,000 new)

Engine
Standard Engine - never opened. Good even compression on all cylinders. Always warmed up and idled before switch off. Only Run on 99 RON Optimax. Bore Scope used to check piston crowns and bores, etc... with no issues.

• Apex Super Hybrid 400BHP Turbo (GT2876R)
• 0.86A/R Turbine Housing - port matched to Manifold
• Tubular Stainless Steel 4 branch manifold port matched to head and turbo.
• New downpipe and elbow gaskets 1500miles ago.
• Forge Actuator with 3 springs running 18psi spring.
• Braided turbo oil and water hoses
• Spare 0.64 A/R Turbine Housing good for up to 350BHP.
• Denso IK27 Plugs
• Skyline Fuel pump good for ~450BHP
• FSE Adjustable FPR
• Nismo 555 injectors
• Jun 264deg Exhaust Cam - fitted with new Nissan rocker arms
• Toda 264deg Inlet Cam maintaining NVCS for more mid range torque - fitted with new Nissan rocker arms
• Larger 60mm throttle from SR20
• Mocal oil coiler, braided lines and thermostat take-off plate
• Radiator with Electric fans fitted.
• Stainless Steel Catch Can - 2x 15mm inlets and vent filter.

NOS System (£900 new)
• Wizards of Nos Minimax NOS Progressive Controller meaning the Nos comes in from 50% duty over 2 secs. This make the delivery very progressive.
• 10lbs Bootle
• Quick Release Bottle Bracket/Carrier
• Remote Bottle Opener
• Bottle Heater with Sensor meaning constant NOS pressure and therefore delivery.
• ERL Pressure Switch (turns NOS off between 0-30psi)
• NOS and Fuel Solenoids
• Combined NOS and fuel fogger in cool pipe before T/B fitted in TIG welded boss.
• Various Jets up to 200bhp, but I’ve never used more than the 25bhp jets, even though it was very tempting…
• Toggle Switches for Arming System, Bottle Opener, Bottle Warmer and Pressure override under stereo
• Comparing the plots you can see the NOS delivery is very good with stable AFR and no misfire. The slight lean excursion it due to the UEGO sensor or the 50%/2sec ramp in of NOS and fuel.

Gearbox (changed for Recon @ 80k)
• Short shifter
• Heavy Duty Clutch Cover with Nissan Plate - NEVER slips.

Exhaust
• Tubular Stainless Steel 4 branch manifold port matched to head and turbo.
• New downpipe and elbow gaskets 2000miles ago.
• Apex 3" turbo Elbow
• Apex 3" front pipe
• Apex 3” Decat
• HKS Silent Power Cat back Exhaust.

Intake
• Apexi Powerflow Airfilter good for 450BHP
• Custom Z32 intake
• Z32 MAF good for ~500BHP
• HKS recirc Sequential Dump Valve
• Custom 62mm Intercooler hot pipe replacing Greddy pipe work giving +15BHP
• Greddy Intercooler + Cold Pipe (spare Greddy through wing hot pipe)
• Small Varta Battery

Electronics• Power FC + In Car Controller + Controller Holder
• EVC 4 Boost Controller

Interior• Racing pedals
• Sparco gearknob
• Kenwood CD Player
• JBL Rear Speakers

Suspension• Cusco Carbon front strut brace
• KYB AGX front Shocks
• Eibach lowering springs
• Tein Front Camber plates
• WHITELINE adjustable rear anti roll bar
• Koni Adjustable rear shocks
• Rear Rose Jointed Camber Arms
• FRONT roll centre correction Ball joints fitted to lower arms
• REAR roll centre correction Ball Joints fitted to lower arms
• Front Lower Arm Poly bushes
• Front Tension Rod Poly bushes
• Apex Rear Subframe collars
• Roll Steer Correction Rod ends
• Poly rack bushes
• Wheels Tyres and Brakes
• OZ SuperTurismo 18x8J ET35 alloy wheels
• Conti Sport Contact 2 Tyres
• 225/40R18 Front & 245/40R18 Rear with Good Thread

Brakes
• DBPower 345mm Brembo Front Brake kit Fitted 500miles ago
• Ferodo Fast Road Front pads
• Rear Pads Mintex Extreme (spare set with car)

I’ve had the car for nearly 4 years/25k miles. Prior to that it’s been owned by two other SXOC members (Pops & Crispyscrump). In that time I’ve modified the car from ~250PS to 434PS. A lot of the parts were already fitted to the car when I bought it. I then added the bits I needed to get to this level. I’m a Automotive Engineer working at Ford in Essex. My job is vehicle performance and fuel economy so I know what works and what doesn’t and I’ve used the knowledge and resources available to me to get the car to this level. The mapping has been done by me and the guys responsible for Focus ‘ST’ & ‘RS’ calibrations so it is spot on and safe. Using the performance where I can it returns 28-30mpg on my daily commute, so it’s pretty economical as well. For the last two years I’ve had the car on a 3000miles per annum policy, using it less often but still on the daily commute where it’s never let me down.

I’ve mapped the engine up to 1.8bar but I run 1.7bar or 1.4bar in the wet. At the recent dyno session it didn’t smoke and the map was confirmed to be spot on giving very stable AFR. The mapping took months of logging PowerFC data and AFR (with Wide band Lambda) on the way to work, changing the map and the same on the way home. Then trips on quiet A roads for some prolonged WOT checking EGTs. We finally finished the map at Snetterton. We also logged fuel rail pressure, pre-turbine pressure, compressor outlet temp and manifold inlet temp to make sure the component set was right. The WOT map goes from 12.5:1 to 11:1 at the top end. The cruise map is up to 15.5:1 to improve fuel economy.
90% of the time was sent getting part throttle right. That's the only way to get good fuel economy and smooth delivery. WOT is relatively easy in comparison.

I have also performance tested the car using very accurate GPS measurement equipment and it has as fast acceleration as a 520BHP R33 GTR and Ferrari F430. I have the data to prove this. The car is VERY quick and not for the inexperienced, with wheel spin in a straight line in 3rd gear in the dry if you are clumsy with the throttle. Peak boost on the road in 5th is from 3500rpm( with NOS)-4000rpm and due to the cams it doesn’t run out of steam until the rev limit @ 7250rpm. On dyno peak boost was around 4500rpm due to the lower loads.

Handling is excellent. It’s been on the track twice and apart from fast Caterhams and Radials nothing could stay with it. It is setup for grip, not drifting but when it lets go it is progressive and easy to recover. The ride is pretty hard, but I like that. I have also corrected the geometry after lowering with front and rear roll centre correction ball joints, and front and rear camber adjustment. I’ve poly bushed and rose jointed a lot of the suspension so it is direct without the vagueness that many 200SXs suffer from.

The 345mm brakes are really good with ‘fast road’ ferodo pads. They give good progression and feedback and work well when cold and are fade free.

You can see from the pictures that the car is not a ‘show’ car. The point of this car is performance, grip and reliability as I use it regularly for work. The bodywork has a few scratches and dents and some lacquer on the bonnet, which I have touched in with a lacquer pen to stop it getting any worse.

I chose the Continental Sport Contact 2 tyres as they give great traction and grip in the dry and are progressive in the wet, no bargain rubber here! The wheels need a refurb’ but it has never bothered me. All wheels have kerb marks and some have nicks out of the rim. (I have high res’ pics on request). These are rallycar alloys so are super strong and have been like this since I’ve owned the car. I’ve changed the tyres a few times and they always balanced up fine.

The NOS kit was fitted to win a bet. I’ve only used one 10lbs bottle and I used it with 25BHP jets as a Nitrous Anti-Lag system to spin up the turbo. The bottle fitted now is about 75% full. It basically makes the turbo spin up quicker and knocks 500rpm off the boost response bringing it down to 3500rpm. I needed it to match the low rpm performance of my mates R33 GTR with 520PS, which it did quite nicely…! It basically makes the car feel like a big capacity V8 from 2000rpm. Then boost builds up to a preset limit (e.g. 15psi) and then the NOS turns off. This means it uses very little NOS. There is also an override so you can run NOS to the rev limit for the full monty. The NOS bottle is fitted in the boot replacing the spare wheel.

I’ve found it really tricky to value the car. The modified parts if bought new would cost £10,000 and I could break the car for at least £6-7000. I don’t want to break it though as I’ve spent many hours getting it where it is. I’d rather keep it on the road and let another enthusiast enjoy it.

So I’m asking £4495ono with the NOS fitted.

That’s a lot of performance for the money, in fact look in EVO Knowledge at what cars have ~350BHP/tonne. (F430 342bhp/tonne, Gallardo 343bhp/tonne, 911 GT3 (996) 339bhp/tonne)

I’m happy for people to view the car during the day near Basildon, Essex or any evening after 5pm or at weekends in Gravesend, Kent. I’ll also happy to do passenger rides to show the performance. You can contact via PM or Tel: 07733-481680 or Email: richteabisc@yahoo.com

There are lots of spares with the car. Including 4 worn 225/40R18 tyres, spare plugs, 3 spare coil packs, original Greddy Hot pipe, AC compressor,pipework & condenser which have been removed but I’m happy to refit if required, standard suspension arms, etc… These and anything else I can find are all included.

Thanks for looking, Rich.
wot?

drgoatboy

2,016 posts

233 months

Monday 23rd November 2009
quotequote all
I know its not RWD but you may be able to get a colt CZT for £5K if you look around.
Nice and new, reliable, cheap to run, reasonable performance and great around town.
OK, maybe not a track day monster without spending some money on the suspension but as an everyday car that you can have some fun in its a great proposition...
150bhp as standard and only weighs a smidge over a ton, I believe you can get them remapped now to increase power to closer to 200bhp without spending too much money...

ponyboy

34 posts

199 months

Tuesday 8th December 2009
quotequote all
It's not RWD but you could get an excellent mitis FTO for that cash, probably about 30k on the clock with lots of work, probably still have £1.5k(ish) left over, too.

great fun, cheap motoring and very enjoyable.

UTH

11,966 posts

204 months

Tuesday 8th December 2009
quotequote all
ponyboy said:
It's not RWD but you could get an excellent mitis FTO for that cash, probably about 30k on the clock with lots of work, probably still have £1.5k(ish) left over, too.

great fun, cheap motoring and very enjoyable.
but.... you've seen what you look like in it haven't you? tongue out