1.9 TDi sluggish
Discussion
Not yet - guess that's the next thing on the list. Is that the N75 solenoid, or something else? To give you a little more detail, the acceleration is fine in 2nd all the way through the range right up to 5000+, but in third it will get to 3750rpm and the turbo will cut out; in 4th just below 3000rpm, and in 5th 2500rpm. When it cuts, it's gone until you restart the engine.
Tintern Jim said:
Not yet - guess that's the next thing on the list. Is that the N75 solenoid, or something else? To give you a little more detail, the acceleration is fine in 2nd all the way through the range right up to 5000+, but in third it will get to 3750rpm and the turbo will cut out; in 4th just below 3000rpm, and in 5th 2500rpm. When it cuts, it's gone until you restart the engine.
Hell i dont know. I have the 1.9 tdi and it started getting erratic and not boosting. Took it to audi and they replaced what they described as the boost control sensor and hey presto problem was gone full consistent boost.80/90 quid fitted.
Tallbut Buxomly said:
Tintern Jim said:
Not yet - guess that's the next thing on the list. Is that the N75 solenoid, or something else? To give you a little more detail, the acceleration is fine in 2nd all the way through the range right up to 5000+, but in third it will get to 3750rpm and the turbo will cut out; in 4th just below 3000rpm, and in 5th 2500rpm. When it cuts, it's gone until you restart the engine.
Hell i dont know. I have the 1.9 tdi and it started getting erratic and not boosting. Took it to audi and they replaced what they described as the boost control sensor and hey presto problem was gone full consistent boost.80/90 quid fitted.
In the past 4 months it's not gone into limp-home mode, and I make sure I use the full rev range at least once every week or so.
No mechanic but Sounds to me like the boost sensor then as its a consistent pressure point failure. The sensor thinks its reached max boost and cuts out.
As you accelerate in each gear the amount of boost is the same but the speed at which it is applied differs due to gearing. The sensor is misreading due to this i reckon.
Like i say no mechanic but suggest the boost pressure sensor and i said 80/90 parts and labour to help try narrow down exactly which part it is.
Sympton on mine was i would get boost as normal and then as i went through the gears it would on occasion just stop boosting and go leaden. Turn engine off then on and it would work again. Eventually got very bad very quick till one day i got up to motorway speed then ever so slightly altered accelerator position and enginefelt like it was dead just no power.
Normal reset didnt work. Drove 160miles to my client then drove
As you accelerate in each gear the amount of boost is the same but the speed at which it is applied differs due to gearing. The sensor is misreading due to this i reckon.
Like i say no mechanic but suggest the boost pressure sensor and i said 80/90 parts and labour to help try narrow down exactly which part it is.
Sympton on mine was i would get boost as normal and then as i went through the gears it would on occasion just stop boosting and go leaden. Turn engine off then on and it would work again. Eventually got very bad very quick till one day i got up to motorway speed then ever so slightly altered accelerator position and enginefelt like it was dead just no power.
Normal reset didnt work. Drove 160miles to my client then drove
Right, having first been given an N75 solenoid (which I believe is the same thing as the boost pressure sensor) which didn't fit - ordered by the Skoda delaership - I finally got one Friday that did. Changed it myself in less than 5 minutes and problem solved. What a relief. The mechanics that changed the turbo were surprised that the old one had worked at all, given what they saw when they took it off - so there were probably several things that were at fault affecting each other. But now it's all done and I'm a happy man. Thanks all for your help and comments.
Got what sounds like a similar problem with a very recently bought 80k miles A3 1.9tdi (07 105bhp model)
Missus was driving it and called to say car very sluggish and yellow/orange engine management light has come permantley on. Car is booked in for a service+cambelt on Thursday this week so I nipped down to the Audi Indy where its due for the service (was sluggish for me on the way there, felt like no turbo) and he read the code and said 'charge pressure error' mentioned it could need a new turbo or the boost solenoid and also number 3 glow plug is faulty so needs a new set of glow plugs?
On the way back it felt normal, if its intermittant surely it won't be the turbo that needs replacing as that would be permantley in limp mode? Finger x'd its the boost solenoid?
Car is running fine today.
Missus was driving it and called to say car very sluggish and yellow/orange engine management light has come permantley on. Car is booked in for a service+cambelt on Thursday this week so I nipped down to the Audi Indy where its due for the service (was sluggish for me on the way there, felt like no turbo) and he read the code and said 'charge pressure error' mentioned it could need a new turbo or the boost solenoid and also number 3 glow plug is faulty so needs a new set of glow plugs?
On the way back it felt normal, if its intermittant surely it won't be the turbo that needs replacing as that would be permantley in limp mode? Finger x'd its the boost solenoid?
Car is running fine today.
chillo said:
Got what sounds like a similar problem with a very recently bought 80k miles A3 1.9tdi (07 105bhp model)
Missus was driving it and called to say car very sluggish and yellow/orange engine management light has come permantley on. Car is booked in for a service+cambelt on Thursday this week so I nipped down to the Audi Indy where its due for the service (was sluggish for me on the way there, felt like no turbo) and he read the code and said 'charge pressure error' mentioned it could need a new turbo or the boost solenoid and also number 3 glow plug is faulty so needs a new set of glow plugs?
On the way back it felt normal, if its intermittant surely it won't be the turbo that needs replacing as that would be permantley in limp mode? Finger x'd its the boost solenoid?
Car is running fine today.
yup. Its gonna be the sensor. If it was the turbo you would have an unusually large amount of smoke out the back and you would be using a lot more oil as i understand it. Its also cheaper to change the boost control sensor than the turbo so start there.Missus was driving it and called to say car very sluggish and yellow/orange engine management light has come permantley on. Car is booked in for a service+cambelt on Thursday this week so I nipped down to the Audi Indy where its due for the service (was sluggish for me on the way there, felt like no turbo) and he read the code and said 'charge pressure error' mentioned it could need a new turbo or the boost solenoid and also number 3 glow plug is faulty so needs a new set of glow plugs?
On the way back it felt normal, if its intermittant surely it won't be the turbo that needs replacing as that would be permantley in limp mode? Finger x'd its the boost solenoid?
Car is running fine today.
Hi!
I have a '98 VW passat 1,9TDI with a simular problem. It revs easy to around 2500rpm and then it stays there, it smokes and knocks a lot and doesen't want to rev higher. No fault codes, previous owner got the turbo changed, but no difference. Tried it without the plug for the maf sensor, no differense, tried taking of the pipe from the intercooler, no difference, and the turbo blew air.
What could this be?
I have a '98 VW passat 1,9TDI with a simular problem. It revs easy to around 2500rpm and then it stays there, it smokes and knocks a lot and doesen't want to rev higher. No fault codes, previous owner got the turbo changed, but no difference. Tried it without the plug for the maf sensor, no differense, tried taking of the pipe from the intercooler, no difference, and the turbo blew air.
What could this be?
Sorry to rake up an old thread but getting desperate now.
i've got a 2002 1.4tdi polo(3 cylinder jobby) AMF engine code with non variable vane turbo.
Ok, i've been losing boost at around 2-2.5k revs when under load. I did a quick vagcom check and got this:
VAG-COM Version: Release 303.1
Control Module Part Number: 045 906 019 C
Component and/or Version: 0000SG 1479
Software Coding: 00002
Work Shop Code: WSC 00788
Additional Info: WVWZZZ9NZ2Y030733 VWZ7Z0A4370380
1 Faults Found:
17965 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation
P1557 - 35-00 - -
I've had a very gunged up EGR so i cleaned that.....tried again, and it still loses boost.
I also replaced the N75/N18 block with a new one..... still no joy.
Now some bloke of another site said its more than likely to be the vanes sticking so, taking his word i removed turbo today...only to find it has a standard wastegate and not the variable vane type turbo.
The turbo model is a Garrett GT15.
Is it worth rebuliding the turbo? Or could it just be the boost sensor?? I'm running out of options and money now so any help greatly appreciated.
i've got a 2002 1.4tdi polo(3 cylinder jobby) AMF engine code with non variable vane turbo.
Ok, i've been losing boost at around 2-2.5k revs when under load. I did a quick vagcom check and got this:
VAG-COM Version: Release 303.1
Control Module Part Number: 045 906 019 C
Component and/or Version: 0000SG 1479
Software Coding: 00002
Work Shop Code: WSC 00788
Additional Info: WVWZZZ9NZ2Y030733 VWZ7Z0A4370380
1 Faults Found:
17965 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation
P1557 - 35-00 - -
I've had a very gunged up EGR so i cleaned that.....tried again, and it still loses boost.
I also replaced the N75/N18 block with a new one..... still no joy.
Now some bloke of another site said its more than likely to be the vanes sticking so, taking his word i removed turbo today...only to find it has a standard wastegate and not the variable vane type turbo.
The turbo model is a Garrett GT15.
Is it worth rebuliding the turbo? Or could it just be the boost sensor?? I'm running out of options and money now so any help greatly appreciated.
Hiya, I have just purchased an Audi A6 1.9 Tdi (130 bhp) '04 reg. with 131,700 on the clock. Its mint & has been driven slowly by a lady owner this last year & has been parked up since December 2011. Had the Cambelt done just 50 miles ago by an approved garage & also has a full service history mainly done by Audi.
I got it cheap & for this reason!: It is very sluggish, topping out at 60 mph in 4th gear & 70 mph in 5th. Ive tried the "3rd gear test from 1200-1800 rpm" & its just as if the turbo's not there! Then, in 2nd, just once or twice it will race off leaving a plume of grey/black smoke in its wake & the engine management light came on! That was yesterday & the engine management light stayed on after I turned ignition off & on again a couple of times (aka the 'ignition cycle' I read about on here)
It was taken to local trusted garage by the owner (after I test drove & noticed problem, then said I'd return to re-test drive the Car after they tried to diagnose or fix the problem) as I was not put off completely buying the Car as I knew it would be something or nothing, having a fairly dcent knowledge of cars, but not so much newfangled modern engines admittedly! The garage reported that the Turbo is not knackered, they dont think it's the MAF meter, there was suspicion of the EGR Valve, but now they reckon it's not that! & something about Vacuum?? but now that's been ruled out too!! A Renault tech mate of mine reckons (without looking yet) it's the N75 ? Anyway, armed with all that background & info, can anyone of you fine gentlemen out there help me out with any ideas?? Very best regards, David
I got it cheap & for this reason!: It is very sluggish, topping out at 60 mph in 4th gear & 70 mph in 5th. Ive tried the "3rd gear test from 1200-1800 rpm" & its just as if the turbo's not there! Then, in 2nd, just once or twice it will race off leaving a plume of grey/black smoke in its wake & the engine management light came on! That was yesterday & the engine management light stayed on after I turned ignition off & on again a couple of times (aka the 'ignition cycle' I read about on here)
It was taken to local trusted garage by the owner (after I test drove & noticed problem, then said I'd return to re-test drive the Car after they tried to diagnose or fix the problem) as I was not put off completely buying the Car as I knew it would be something or nothing, having a fairly dcent knowledge of cars, but not so much newfangled modern engines admittedly! The garage reported that the Turbo is not knackered, they dont think it's the MAF meter, there was suspicion of the EGR Valve, but now they reckon it's not that! & something about Vacuum?? but now that's been ruled out too!! A Renault tech mate of mine reckons (without looking yet) it's the N75 ? Anyway, armed with all that background & info, can anyone of you fine gentlemen out there help me out with any ideas?? Very best regards, David
Its in limp home mode for some reason. Needs scanning with VCDS (I have it in Devon) to find out where the fault lies. If I had to suspect one thing your bit about "driven very slowly" probably means the turbo is a bit coked up and the VNT mechanism has sooted up, causing it to stick open when it should be closing the vanes under heavy power. I bet a VCDS scan will reveal the same fault as 2 above, i.e "1 Faults Found: 17965 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation"
An initial try might be to use an innotec turbo cleaning kit, which can be done without removing the turbo. Personally I would be tempted to remove it, open it up and clean all the insides, then reassemble.
One test to see if the vanes are sticking is to remove the hose from the actuator on top of the turbo and then try and move the actuator by hand, or even using a vacuum pump on the vacuum hose itself (disconnecting at the other end) On startup that vacuum hose gets sucked up pulling the vanes to max open, and then its meant to release as revs build. If its not releasing you get limp home mode and nil boost at all (to preserve the turbo)
Good luck!
An initial try might be to use an innotec turbo cleaning kit, which can be done without removing the turbo. Personally I would be tempted to remove it, open it up and clean all the insides, then reassemble.
One test to see if the vanes are sticking is to remove the hose from the actuator on top of the turbo and then try and move the actuator by hand, or even using a vacuum pump on the vacuum hose itself (disconnecting at the other end) On startup that vacuum hose gets sucked up pulling the vanes to max open, and then its meant to release as revs build. If its not releasing you get limp home mode and nil boost at all (to preserve the turbo)
Good luck!
Tame Technician said:
TDI Road test diagnosis.
You can ckeck for all the common 2.0TDI engine faults in one simple maneuver on the road test. (mostly applys to 1.9 too)
Once the engine is warm find a nice long clear stretch, (you will be doing 70 odd by the end)
Accelerate in 3rd or 4th gear from very low revs say 1200rpm but at absolutely full throttle.(in 2nd it happens to quick, so doesn't show up any faults). Make sure you start ar 1200, slow down and it will take a while to pick up)
It should slowly gather speed and take off at around 1500-1800 rpm, it should then accelerate smoothly and well upto about 3800 then slightly drop off, but keep on full throttle until around 4400. DO this 2 or 3 times, and Dont be alarmed if it smokes alot the first time you do it, means the current driver doesnt rev it high very often.
If it doesnt take off until 2200-2500 there is a vacuum issue or a fault with the N75.
If you get a smooth loss of performance over 3000rpm, the MAF is knackered.
If you get a sudden major loss of power on the second or third attemp (limp mode) the turbo is knackered.
If you get any misfiring (loss of performance that isnt smooth, propper juddering) above say 3000 then there is a loss of fuel pressure, either tandem pump or injector seals leaking.
I shall do this a couple times tomorrow on my way to work just to be sure nothing is wrong.You can ckeck for all the common 2.0TDI engine faults in one simple maneuver on the road test. (mostly applys to 1.9 too)
Once the engine is warm find a nice long clear stretch, (you will be doing 70 odd by the end)
Accelerate in 3rd or 4th gear from very low revs say 1200rpm but at absolutely full throttle.(in 2nd it happens to quick, so doesn't show up any faults). Make sure you start ar 1200, slow down and it will take a while to pick up)
It should slowly gather speed and take off at around 1500-1800 rpm, it should then accelerate smoothly and well upto about 3800 then slightly drop off, but keep on full throttle until around 4400. DO this 2 or 3 times, and Dont be alarmed if it smokes alot the first time you do it, means the current driver doesnt rev it high very often.
If it doesnt take off until 2200-2500 there is a vacuum issue or a fault with the N75.
If you get a smooth loss of performance over 3000rpm, the MAF is knackered.
If you get a sudden major loss of power on the second or third attemp (limp mode) the turbo is knackered.
If you get any misfiring (loss of performance that isnt smooth, propper juddering) above say 3000 then there is a loss of fuel pressure, either tandem pump or injector seals leaking.
Is it worth sticking a redex type treatment through the car every now and then to help prevent this turbo issue?
Cerys' Daddy said:
Hiya, I have just purchased an Audi A6 1.9 Tdi (130 bhp) '04 reg. with 131,700 on the clock. Its mint & has been driven slowly by a lady owner this last year & has been parked up since December 2011. Had the Cambelt done just 50 miles ago by an approved garage & also has a full service history mainly done by Audi.
I got it cheap & for this reason!: It is very sluggish, topping out at 60 mph in 4th gear & 70 mph in 5th. Ive tried the "3rd gear test from 1200-1800 rpm" & its just as if the turbo's not there! Then, in 2nd, just once or twice it will race off leaving a plume of grey/black smoke in its wake & the engine management light came on! That was yesterday & the engine management light stayed on after I turned ignition off & on again a couple of times (aka the 'ignition cycle' I read about on here)
It was taken to local trusted garage by the owner (after I test drove & noticed problem, then said I'd return to re-test drive the Car after they tried to diagnose or fix the problem) as I was not put off completely buying the Car as I knew it would be something or nothing, having a fairly dcent knowledge of cars, but not so much newfangled modern engines admittedly! The garage reported that the Turbo is not knackered, they dont think it's the MAF meter, there was suspicion of the EGR Valve, but now they reckon it's not that! & something about Vacuum?? but now that's been ruled out too!! A Renault tech mate of mine reckons (without looking yet) it's the N75 ? Anyway, armed with all that background & info, can anyone of you fine gentlemen out there help me out with any ideas?? Very best regards, David
Hi again, I took it to my Local Audi specialist today, & the guy there (who knows me quite well as I've had a few audi 80's & a mk1 jetta over the last 12 years!) put it on the scanner for free! Anyway, the Scanner showed up 3 things: 1: EGR PROBLEM 2:SOMETHING ABOUT PRESSURE DEVIATION (I forgot exactly what this sentence said - sorry!?) 3: ACTUAL MAF VALUES ARE 435-450, WHEN THEY SHOULD BE AROUND 250 HE SAID.I got it cheap & for this reason!: It is very sluggish, topping out at 60 mph in 4th gear & 70 mph in 5th. Ive tried the "3rd gear test from 1200-1800 rpm" & its just as if the turbo's not there! Then, in 2nd, just once or twice it will race off leaving a plume of grey/black smoke in its wake & the engine management light came on! That was yesterday & the engine management light stayed on after I turned ignition off & on again a couple of times (aka the 'ignition cycle' I read about on here)
It was taken to local trusted garage by the owner (after I test drove & noticed problem, then said I'd return to re-test drive the Car after they tried to diagnose or fix the problem) as I was not put off completely buying the Car as I knew it would be something or nothing, having a fairly dcent knowledge of cars, but not so much newfangled modern engines admittedly! The garage reported that the Turbo is not knackered, they dont think it's the MAF meter, there was suspicion of the EGR Valve, but now they reckon it's not that! & something about Vacuum?? but now that's been ruled out too!! A Renault tech mate of mine reckons (without looking yet) it's the N75 ? Anyway, armed with all that background & info, can anyone of you fine gentlemen out there help me out with any ideas?? Very best regards, David
So, do 3 things need replacing there or what?? (I am also aware of the Variable Vane Turbo probs) He said to book it in asap if my Renault mate can't sort in time (as he's pretty busy himself!) THANKS TO TDIFurby and Nick1point9 for responding & their kind Help in my 'quest' Lol! much appreciated gents
Breakthrough! - My Renault Tech mate found that the 1-way Valve fitted in-line between the N75 Valve & the EGR was upside-down! We suspect this was done when the cambelt was done recently according to the history, the Cambelt was done just 50 miles before I bought the Car. The Valve is near the Cam cover & was probably disconnected to make more space to get to the cam belt . Also, the Egr was very clean inside & looked recently cleaned (due to fresh looking scratches inside) & also a blanking plate made from a small square piece of mild steel was fitted inside the EGR Valve, which according to my mate is done to eliminate the EGR during fault finding, but should really have been removed after testing by whoever put it there - but wasn't! The Car speeds off fine now & feels more like a 130 bhp than a milk float!! All faults cleared but after a short test drive the Engine Management Light came on on the Dash, So using his Snap-on Scanner the only fault that came up again after we took it for a short test drive was "EGR 'A' pressure insufficient", but my mate reckons that is likely to be engine/EGR adaptives needing re-setting due to removing the egr, & a vag com would be needed in order to do this, or if not then a new EGR?? Anyway, he turned off the light & I drove home a little further distance of a mile or 2 than we did on the test drive yet the Light so far has not re-appeared??? So we will see what happens,
but for now, Has Anyone got any other ideas on theis small problem? Other than this, the Car drives great now!
but for now, Has Anyone got any other ideas on theis small problem? Other than this, the Car drives great now!
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