V8 Vantage on Axle stands
Discussion
Where the cut out is along the edge of the painted sill cover is the correct place to lift the car.There is one toward the front and one toward the rear. There is a hole with a grommit (grommit not always there) in it. That's the place we've always been trained to use. The subframes are generally OK so long as it is a point where a couple of points meet as there is extra strength there. The chassis rails (which I have always been advised not to use) have indents at either end so are relatively easy to spot.
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Sorry to drag this one back again..,
But.... If I use the jacking points as indicated above (also shown like this in my manual) ..the cup on my jack will extend beyond the rectangular areas indicated.. Therefore it will contact what looks like the undertray and obviously part of thie plastic sill that wraps under the car... Is this ok?
But.... If I use the jacking points as indicated above (also shown like this in my manual) ..the cup on my jack will extend beyond the rectangular areas indicated.. Therefore it will contact what looks like the undertray and obviously part of thie plastic sill that wraps under the car... Is this ok?
CatalystV12V said:
Sorry to drag this one back again..,
But.... If I use the jacking points as indicated above (also shown like this in my manual) ..the cup on my jack will extend beyond the rectangular areas indicated.. Therefore it will contact what looks like the undertray and obviously part of thie plastic sill that wraps under the car... Is this ok?
No, it is not OK. You run the risk of cracking the sill. Either use a different jack or use some kind of space in the cup. A lot of people take a hockey puck and trim it to the needed shape.But.... If I use the jacking points as indicated above (also shown like this in my manual) ..the cup on my jack will extend beyond the rectangular areas indicated.. Therefore it will contact what looks like the undertray and obviously part of thie plastic sill that wraps under the car... Is this ok?
yvr said:
I've had four aluminum blocks made -- one for each jacking point -- and I keep them in the car at all times in case I have to get emergency service at some out of the way garage. They're about 1" x 1.5" x 4".
I use hard maple blocks rather than aluminum because mine are semi-permanently attached to the car lifting points using very strong double-side carpet tape. The aluminum blocks would potentially fall off over time due to being much heavier than the wood version.Because of the wrap around nature of the sill, you can't see them unless you have your head against the ground, so they are not unsightly. I also have a couple spares in the car, just in case one were to fall off, but that is really unlikely. And they are really cheap, so you can make a lot of them at one time, just in case.
Dimensions of these blocks are:
Front: 2" x 4-1/2" x 1-3/4"
Rear: 2" x 6-1/2" x 1-1/4"
They are much larger than the ones mentioned in the quote because they provide more leeway when positioning a jack, or lifting arms on a 2-post lift.
To paraphrase yeti: "aluminium blocks for an aluminium car" 
though there's no good reason hardwood wouldn't work just as well. I keep them secured in the boot rather than having them mounted on the car. My measurements were approximate (from memory) and those quoted by DB9VolanteDriver seem very familiar.
though there's no good reason hardwood wouldn't work just as well. I keep them secured in the boot rather than having them mounted on the car. My measurements were approximate (from memory) and those quoted by DB9VolanteDriver seem very familiar.yvr said:
I've had four aluminum blocks made -- one for each jacking point -- and I keep them in the car at all times in case I have to get emergency service at some out of the way garage. They're about 1" x 1.5" x 4".
DB9VolanteDriver said:
I use hard maple blocks rather than aluminum because mine are semi-permanently attached to the car lifting points using very strong double-side carpet tape. The aluminum blocks would potentially fall off over time due to being much heavier than the wood version.
Because of the wrap around nature of the sill, you can't see them unless you have your head against the ground, so they are not unsightly. I also have a couple spares in the car, just in case one were to fall off, but that is really unlikely. And they are really cheap, so you can make a lot of them at one time, just in case.
Dimensions of these blocks are:
Front: 2" x 4-1/2" x 1-3/4"
Rear: 2" x 6-1/2" x 1-1/4"
They are much larger than the ones mentioned in the quote because they provide more leeway when positioning a jack, or lifting arms on a 2-post lift.
I’m really pleased to see this thread, thanks to CatalystV12V. Any chance of pictures?Because of the wrap around nature of the sill, you can't see them unless you have your head against the ground, so they are not unsightly. I also have a couple spares in the car, just in case one were to fall off, but that is really unlikely. And they are really cheap, so you can make a lot of them at one time, just in case.
Dimensions of these blocks are:
Front: 2" x 4-1/2" x 1-3/4"
Rear: 2" x 6-1/2" x 1-1/4"
They are much larger than the ones mentioned in the quote because they provide more leeway when positioning a jack, or lifting arms on a 2-post lift.
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