Tamiya 1/20 Tyrrell P34 (Six Wheeler) Build
Tamiya 1/20 Tyrrell P34 (Six Wheeler) Build
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Discussion

dr_gn

16,716 posts

206 months

Wednesday 27th March 2013
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As you say, not the best pictures, but honestly, it looks absolutely fine to me, irrespective of your experience of building kits.
Can you post higher resolution images of the bits you're not happy with?

ecsrobin

Original Poster:

18,500 posts

187 months

Wednesday 27th March 2013
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Red Firecracker said:
Well, it looks a hundred times better than it did before, you should be very happy with the save. It's not too shiny, which is very nice to see. One thing you might want to do with the tyres is to give them a bit of a worn look, which also removes the centre moulding line. Bit of sand paper and lightly sand the tyre, gets rid of the line and makes them look lightly used. Makes a big difference.

I'm glad you said the rear wing was dry fitted only as well!

More to the point though, are you happier with it now (I won't say happy, as I know I'm rarely fully happy with a model, there's always something)? Yes, I could be hyper critical and point little things out that I could/would have done differently, but that's not the point of this model, as I think you yourself have decided now. It's a stepping stone to greater things, which again, is the same for all of us. I'm really looking forward to the next update, always good to have another race car builder here smile
Yeah I had read about sanding the tyres, so they will be done at some point.

I am a lot happier now I think I was just being too critical and actually now I've progressed further than where I've been for a few weeks it actually makes me look and think I've built that smile and I'm still not finished.

Still got a long way to go and I've also been collecting a whats wrong how would I do it differently so maybe we can have a big discussion at the end of the build.

Eric Mc

124,684 posts

287 months

Wednesday 27th March 2013
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Modelling is about fun and enjoyment. If you are too harsh on yourself, you will ruin that aspect of the hobby. By all means strive to be better - but not to the extent that you are so dissatisfied with the outcome that it upsets you.

What is the point of that?

ecsrobin

Original Poster:

18,500 posts

187 months

Wednesday 27th March 2013
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Well everyone's words of wisdom have really spurred me on and also looking at my model in a new view of there will be mistakes has really made me crack on.

So already a point to take away from this I really wanted to photo each step but I'm enjoying it that much that I'm working quicker than I thought and that means I forget to take photos.

So today I've added further decals, really happy with how these have gone on except for the rear spoiler where I've applied it slightly wonky I shall call it "added character"


Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

You'll also note that I've added the final front suspension braces these just required a couple of holes drilled for it to fit which was a lot easier than I expected. I've also added the front chrome splitter thing above the front wing but the bloody thing snapped straight down the medal as I removed some mould marks frown luckily it was a clean break so I've managed to join them back together and is barely noticeable.


Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

You will notice the body isn't flush, that's only because its dry fitted at present, the front white cowling still needs another coating and you'll notice I haven't sprayed the seat gloss white yet.

I also feel its time to crack out my proper camera and this weekend will take some proper images instead of those off an iPhone.

fatboy69

9,424 posts

209 months

Wednesday 27th March 2013
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That looks good. I had forgotten how good the First National City white cowling livery looks - breaks up the Elf blue.

Also makes you realise how mental the 6 wheeler was & how innovation such as that is now frowned upon in F1. Mores the pity!!!

perdu

4,885 posts

221 months

Wednesday 27th March 2013
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I really like this

Gonna be great when you finish the transfers

OK decals, I'm an old man/git and still call them what they were when I was learning how to do it from people like Alan Hall

That Tyrell was an amazing creation, you are doing it justice. Well made model. Thanks for allowing us into the build process.


bill

ecsrobin

Original Poster:

18,500 posts

187 months

Monday 8th April 2013
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Well a bit of an update on the Tyrrell. I've finished spraying the cowling in white and applied some decals slightly misaligned near "travellers" but ill be displaying it with the cowling off so not too concerned. The only one is the F on the elf has decided to come away when picking it up frown but ill get some more decals to replace it.


Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr


Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

Still got the other side to do.

I've also noticed most models that I've seen done as Peterson's have not cut away the built in wing mirrors and added the correct external mirrors. But I felt it had to be as accurate as possible.

dr_gn

16,716 posts

206 months

Monday 8th April 2013
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It looks fine.

Question: Did you spray the white bodywork or not?

ecsrobin

Original Poster:

18,500 posts

187 months

Monday 8th April 2013
quotequote all
dr_gn said:
It looks fine.

Question: Did you spray the white bodywork or not?
The white bodywork was sprayed with tamiya spray paint. And I used revell Plasto to remove the join line down the middle of the fairing.

Krikkit

27,805 posts

203 months

Monday 8th April 2013
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What a great looking model! Looks like a very decent finish on the paintwork without an airbrush, how did you find the Tamiya weathering kit?

I can recommend Hobby and Leisure for Tamiya (and just about every other brand of) paints if you're stuck, I've always had good service from them. I tend to buy a kit, find a copy of the manual online and buy all the stated paints in one go.

ecsrobin

Original Poster:

18,500 posts

187 months

Monday 8th April 2013
quotequote all
Krikkit said:
What a great looking model! Looks like a very decent finish on the paintwork without an airbrush, how did you find the Tamiya weathering kit?

I can recommend Hobby and Leisure for Tamiya (and just about every other brand of) paints if you're stuck, I've always had good service from them. I tend to buy a kit, find a copy of the manual online and buy all the stated paints in one go.
Thanks for the link its worth noting as I do struggle to find some tamiya paints in my local model shops the furthest I've traveled is 45min just for some paint (more an excuse just for a drive!)

To be fair I don't know if I'm using the tamiya weathering kit correctly as I couldn't find much on how to use it online but I'm happy with the result and the engine now certainly looks oily and "weathered" so I'm happy but not sure about using it to weather the bodywork.

dr_gn

16,716 posts

206 months

Tuesday 9th April 2013
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ecsrobin said:
Krikkit said:
What a great looking model! Looks like a very decent finish on the paintwork without an airbrush, how did you find the Tamiya weathering kit?

I can recommend Hobby and Leisure for Tamiya (and just about every other brand of) paints if you're stuck, I've always had good service from them. I tend to buy a kit, find a copy of the manual online and buy all the stated paints in one go.
Thanks for the link its worth noting as I do struggle to find some tamiya paints in my local model shops the furthest I've traveled is 45min just for some paint (more an excuse just for a drive!)

To be fair I don't know if I'm using the tamiya weathering kit correctly as I couldn't find much on how to use it online but I'm happy with the result and the engine now certainly looks oily and "weathered" so I'm happy but not sure about using it to weather the bodywork.
Just use an old paintbrush - twirl it around in the powder square for a bit then gently brush over raised details and it will highlight them. You can also use the sponge thing in the tray to create subtle streaks on smoother areas of plastic.

ecsrobin

Original Poster:

18,500 posts

187 months

Tuesday 9th April 2013
quotequote all
dr_gn said:
Just use an old paintbrush - twirl it around in the powder square for a bit then gently brush over raised details and it will highlight them. You can also use the sponge thing in the tray to create subtle streaks on smoother areas of plastic.
That might be why my sponge is damaged already used it on the block, but I also purchased the large applicator brush as I didn't realise it came with one. Ill try swirling the brush for longer as I just didn't feel like I was getting anything picked up.

dr_gn

16,716 posts

206 months

Tuesday 9th April 2013
quotequote all
ecsrobin said:
dr_gn said:
Just use an old paintbrush - twirl it around in the powder square for a bit then gently brush over raised details and it will highlight them. You can also use the sponge thing in the tray to create subtle streaks on smoother areas of plastic.
That might be why my sponge is damaged already used it on the block, but I also purchased the large applicator brush as I didn't realise it came with one. Ill try swirling the brush for longer as I just didn't feel like I was getting anything picked up.
Try abrading the surface of the powder block a bit with a scalpel blade. You don't want too much on the brush or it'll look too thick, just be patient and gradually build up the layers. It's sometimes good to compare it with an untreated part of the same colour - it can be deceptive how much you are applying.

ecsrobin

Original Poster:

18,500 posts

187 months

Tuesday 9th April 2013
quotequote all
I think I achieved the desired affect on the engine I'm just about nervous about doing the bodywork. Also is it best to seal it in with a clear coat or weather above the clear coat?

dr_gn

16,716 posts

206 months

Tuesday 9th April 2013
quotequote all
ecsrobin said:
I think I achieved the desired affect on the engine I'm just about nervous about doing the bodywork. Also is it best to seal it in with a clear coat or weather above the clear coat?
Bodywork with weathering powder? Why?

ecsrobin

Original Poster:

18,500 posts

187 months

Tuesday 9th April 2013
quotequote all
Ok, how would I weather the bodywork? I don't want it all shiny from a museum so the engine is looking in a used state but I need some dirt on the car, I have been saving the rubber from the tyres that I've sanded, thinking it would be good to add on to the tyres to show the marbling.

ecsrobin

Original Poster:

18,500 posts

187 months

Tuesday 9th April 2013
quotequote all
So a quick update, I noticed that id fitted the wrong rollbar to the vehicle so ive had to remove the old one and fir the correct one:

Old


Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

New (sorry for the angle)


Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

I've also added more decals including the tiny 1 & 2 for the wheel numbering which ive noticed often gets omitted from most peoples versions of this car.

The decal sheet also has an "E" electrical shut off sticker but is not listed on the model instructions and I cant find any reference to it looking at real life pictures but im sure it must be somewhere??

Red Firecracker

5,329 posts

249 months

Tuesday 9th April 2013
quotequote all
Starting with the tyres, your issue is going to be scale. The bits you've sanded off will be too large and look just like what they are, bits of rubber glued back on. I find the best way is to use a slightly rougher paper than normal and gently scrap the tyre over it. As with most things, it's easier to add than take away, so do a little, check, do a little, check and stop before you think you need to.

Body weathering wise, my advice is to pick up a cheap 1:18th diecast model, of any car, and practice on that. The technique I tend to use is with an airbrush, apply a very very weak (thinned down) mix of Tamiya matt acrylics (light browns) and move in the direction of the air, so front to back in long strokes. If you can see this paint going on it's either too thick or you're applying too much. You're just trying to knock back the body colour. Once that is dry, I tend to use pastel chalks to create the effects of the race track and dirt, applied with various brushes. Remember, you'll need lots of reference material before starting. All of this is done over the top of an initial gloss coat and once happy with the overall effect, a matt/satin coat to seal (depending on severity of weathering/prototype).

Bear in mind, it's blooming hard to remove any of this once you've started without damaging what's underneath, which is why I recommend practicing on a meaningless model first.

dr_gn

16,716 posts

206 months

Tuesday 9th April 2013
quotequote all
ecsrobin said:
Ok, how would I weather the bodywork? I don't want it all shiny from a museum so the engine is looking in a used state but I need some dirt on the car, I have been saving the rubber from the tyres that I've sanded, thinking it would be good to add on to the tyres to show the marbling.
No idea about weathering the bodywork, I've never tried it. I think it would be very, very easy (even for an experienced modeller)to make a bad job of it TBH.

Good idea about the marbles on the tires. Again this is my own preference: I'd sand the tyres with wet'n'dry to get rid of the mould line and make them grained on the 'slick' part...and leave it at that. At the risk of re-posting pictures of other models (which I know can get a bit dull), that is what I did with the tyres of the XJR9LM (Tamiya 1:24):



I actually used a belt sander to do these because it was taking forever by hand with wet'n'dry.

Edited by dr_gn on Tuesday 9th April 22:22