valvoline VR1 Raceing mineral oil 20/50...anyone using it?
Discussion
carsy said:
Didnt you take your engine to Dom for its little ends etc. What did he recon was the cause. Have you asked his advice on oil, would be interesting to hear what he has to say.
Think they use 10w40 .I don`t think there is to much to worry about ,all modern oil is good ,just don't go to thin .Ian... a bit at Chesmans, a bit at John Eales, Dom did me a free re-hone and a deal on some pistons (top man)... and heads by Spend
(cheers Dave!)... and all put back together by yours truly having checked all dim's, clearances and replacement of the cam bearings 
I think Daz is correct in the 10-40.. they also used to use CarLube before Mobile 1... so does make you think we might be going OTT?
Just been reading Millers classic 20-50 Semi Synthetics blurb... sounds good and 1400 PPM of Zink. and best of both worlds with mineral and synthetic oil?..
wonder if anyone is using this ???
(cheers Dave!)... and all put back together by yours truly having checked all dim's, clearances and replacement of the cam bearings 
I think Daz is correct in the 10-40.. they also used to use CarLube before Mobile 1... so does make you think we might be going OTT?
Just been reading Millers classic 20-50 Semi Synthetics blurb... sounds good and 1400 PPM of Zink. and best of both worlds with mineral and synthetic oil?..
wonder if anyone is using this ???

TVR Beaver said:
Ian... a bit at Chesmans, a bit at John Eales, Dom did me a free re-hone and a deal on some pistons (top man)... and heads by Spend
(cheers Dave!)... and all put back together by yours truly having checked all dim's, clearances and replacement of the cam bearings 
I think Daz is correct in the 10-40.. they also used to use CarLube before Mobile 1... so does make you think we might be going OTT?
Just been reading Millers classic 20-50 Semi Synthetics blurb... sounds good and 1400 PPM of Zink. and best of both worlds with mineral and synthetic oil?..
wonder if anyone is using this ???
Your better off using Millers css 20w60 ! Trouble with some of the classic oils is they are mono grade and do not have any detergents.So you are effectively buying 50 year old oil.
(cheers Dave!)... and all put back together by yours truly having checked all dim's, clearances and replacement of the cam bearings 
I think Daz is correct in the 10-40.. they also used to use CarLube before Mobile 1... so does make you think we might be going OTT?
Just been reading Millers classic 20-50 Semi Synthetics blurb... sounds good and 1400 PPM of Zink. and best of both worlds with mineral and synthetic oil?..
wonder if anyone is using this ???

That's why its used for running engines in .
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MILLERS-OILS-CSS-20w60-C...
Edited by SILICONEKID343HP on Wednesday 19th June 20:22
Just discovered this thread which has some useful info within . . .
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=116...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=116...
Zinc been removed from all road engine oils because it fouls the catalysts, hence the "race " use. Zinc not a lubricant as such but stops micro welds occurring in high load contact areas like cam lobes when the oil film shears, but of course synthetic oil technologies have come on a long way in terms of shear strength since the days of mineral oils.
fausTVR said:
Mine's just been serviced, now has VR1 20/50 installed for the 1st time. Mine has the common 5 ltr chattering at low rev overrun (car has 25k miles now). Opinions seem to differ as to the cause of the sound (cam / lifters / small ends / tappets) but I hoped the VR1 may stifle it a bit, don't think it's much altered. Was on Mobil 1 10/60 longlife, I'm glad I'm not shelling out for that stuff any more -ouch.
I believe that the chattering noise on over-run may be the timing chain.TVR Beaver said:
I have semi-synthetic Millers Titan 10-40 in there now.. just to flush out the mineral oil....
I'm still not sure where to go thereafter
... so many conflicting reccomendations from mineral only. to semi's.. to full synths
Honestly you really cant go wrong with any of these three:I'm still not sure where to go thereafter
... so many conflicting reccomendations from mineral only. to semi's.. to full synthsMineral: Valvoline VR1 20w/50w
Semi-synthetic: Millers CSS 20w/60
Fully-synthetic: Penrite HPR15 15w/60
On a freshly built engine and after the initial 300 mile running-in oil change (running-in oil is always straight mineral for very good reason), I would be inclined to give it the mineral Valvoline VR1 20w/50w for the first 3,000 miles.
Then switch to the Millers CSS 20w/60 semi-synthetic for the next two 3,000 mile oil change intervals.
Followed by a final switch at the 9-10,000 mile point to the fully-synthetic Penrite HPR15 15w/60, and keep it on that from there on in.
Above all the three most important rules to follow are:
1) Change the oil & filter every 3,000 miles, or every year whichever comes soonest
2) Always use a high quality oil filter replacing it every time you change your oil
3) Avoid overheating your oil at all costs
If you track the car an oil cooler is a worthwhile addition, if you you predominantly use the car on the road an oil cooler is largely unnecessary.
As long as your RV8 has been built correctly with quality components, you adopt the gradual mineral to fully-synthetic evolution strategy and stick religiously to the three above rules, you will not have any oil related issues with your engine.
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