valvoline VR1 Raceing mineral oil 20/50...anyone using it?
valvoline VR1 Raceing mineral oil 20/50...anyone using it?
Author
Discussion

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

206 months

Wednesday 19th June 2013
quotequote all
so guess the choice is Pro S and risk the chatter happening again?.. Or VR1 and risk it being de-graded before the change at 2500 miles?? wink

carsy

3,019 posts

191 months

Wednesday 19th June 2013
quotequote all
Didnt you take your engine to Dom for its little ends etc. What did he recon was the cause. Have you asked his advice on oil, would be interesting to hear what he has to say.

SILICONEKID343HP

14,997 posts

257 months

Wednesday 19th June 2013
quotequote all
carsy said:
Didnt you take your engine to Dom for its little ends etc. What did he recon was the cause. Have you asked his advice on oil, would be interesting to hear what he has to say.
Think they use 10w40 .I don`t think there is to much to worry about ,all modern oil is good ,just don't go to thin .



TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

206 months

Wednesday 19th June 2013
quotequote all
Ian... a bit at Chesmans, a bit at John Eales, Dom did me a free re-hone and a deal on some pistons (top man)... and heads by Spend wink (cheers Dave!)... and all put back together by yours truly having checked all dim's, clearances and replacement of the cam bearings smile

I think Daz is correct in the 10-40.. they also used to use CarLube before Mobile 1... so does make you think we might be going OTT?

Just been reading Millers classic 20-50 Semi Synthetics blurb... sounds good and 1400 PPM of Zink. and best of both worlds with mineral and synthetic oil?..
wonder if anyone is using this ??? smile


Digger

16,482 posts

217 months

Wednesday 19th June 2013
quotequote all
Hard to tell from reading the blurb but does Fuchs Race 15w50 have much zinc content?

SILICONEKID343HP

14,997 posts

257 months

Wednesday 19th June 2013
quotequote all
TVR Beaver said:
Ian... a bit at Chesmans, a bit at John Eales, Dom did me a free re-hone and a deal on some pistons (top man)... and heads by Spend wink (cheers Dave!)... and all put back together by yours truly having checked all dim's, clearances and replacement of the cam bearings smile

I think Daz is correct in the 10-40.. they also used to use CarLube before Mobile 1... so does make you think we might be going OTT?

Just been reading Millers classic 20-50 Semi Synthetics blurb... sounds good and 1400 PPM of Zink. and best of both worlds with mineral and synthetic oil?..
wonder if anyone is using this ??? smile
Your better off using Millers css 20w60 ! Trouble with some of the classic oils is they are mono grade and do not have any detergents.So you are effectively buying 50 year old oil.

That's why its used for running engines in .

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MILLERS-OILS-CSS-20w60-C...

Edited by SILICONEKID343HP on Wednesday 19th June 20:22

Digger

16,482 posts

217 months

Wednesday 19th June 2013
quotequote all
Just discovered this thread which has some useful info within . . .

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=116...

blitzracing

6,419 posts

246 months

Wednesday 19th June 2013
quotequote all
Zinc been removed from all road engine oils because it fouls the catalysts, hence the "race " use. Zinc not a lubricant as such but stops micro welds occurring in high load contact areas like cam lobes when the oil film shears, but of course synthetic oil technologies have come on a long way in terms of shear strength since the days of mineral oils.

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

206 months

Wednesday 19th June 2013
quotequote all
Geting into the -60's is quite a lot I think... I want to max out at -50 I think....
Is there a good 15-50 or 20-50 Semi synthetic out there with a good bit of zinc etc???

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

206 months

Thursday 20th June 2013
quotequote all
Getting into mixing your own... how do you know on the PPM scale how much to add... you don't want to go over about 1200 as it only becomes detrimenral to the cat?.

And good Semi synth 15-50's?


V8isa

99 posts

239 months

Thursday 20th June 2013
quotequote all
fausTVR said:
Mine's just been serviced, now has VR1 20/50 installed for the 1st time. Mine has the common 5 ltr chattering at low rev overrun (car has 25k miles now). Opinions seem to differ as to the cause of the sound (cam / lifters / small ends / tappets) but I hoped the VR1 may stifle it a bit, don't think it's much altered. Was on Mobil 1 10/60 longlife, I'm glad I'm not shelling out for that stuff any more -ouch.
I believe that the chattering noise on over-run may be the timing chain.

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

206 months

Thursday 20th June 2013
quotequote all
no.. its the small ends... just done mine... same timing gear... issue solved wink


Any good Semi synth 15-50's?


Digger

16,482 posts

217 months

Thursday 20th June 2013
quotequote all
Fuchs Titan Race Pro R 15W50. Fully Synthetic though!

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

206 months

Thursday 20th June 2013
quotequote all
Think thats what caused my problems in the first place wink

carsy

3,019 posts

191 months

Tuesday 25th June 2013
quotequote all
What you decided on John.

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

206 months

Wednesday 26th June 2013
quotequote all
I have semi-synthetic Millers Titan 10-40 in there now.. just to flush out the mineral oil....

I'm still not sure where to go thereafter rolleyes... so many conflicting reccomendations from mineral only. to semi's.. to full synths

ChimpOnGas

9,637 posts

205 months

Wednesday 26th June 2013
quotequote all
TVR Beaver said:
I have semi-synthetic Millers Titan 10-40 in there now.. just to flush out the mineral oil....

I'm still not sure where to go thereafter rolleyes... so many conflicting reccomendations from mineral only. to semi's.. to full synths
Honestly you really cant go wrong with any of these three:

Mineral: Valvoline VR1 20w/50w

Semi-synthetic: Millers CSS 20w/60

Fully-synthetic: Penrite HPR15 15w/60

On a freshly built engine and after the initial 300 mile running-in oil change (running-in oil is always straight mineral for very good reason), I would be inclined to give it the mineral Valvoline VR1 20w/50w for the first 3,000 miles.

Then switch to the Millers CSS 20w/60 semi-synthetic for the next two 3,000 mile oil change intervals.

Followed by a final switch at the 9-10,000 mile point to the fully-synthetic Penrite HPR15 15w/60, and keep it on that from there on in.

Above all the three most important rules to follow are:

1) Change the oil & filter every 3,000 miles, or every year whichever comes soonest

2) Always use a high quality oil filter replacing it every time you change your oil

3) Avoid overheating your oil at all costs

If you track the car an oil cooler is a worthwhile addition, if you you predominantly use the car on the road an oil cooler is largely unnecessary.

As long as your RV8 has been built correctly with quality components, you adopt the gradual mineral to fully-synthetic evolution strategy and stick religiously to the three above rules, you will not have any oil related issues with your engine.

Pupp

12,910 posts

298 months

Wednesday 26th June 2013
quotequote all
Why on earth would anyone change fully synthetic oil at 3000 miles (unless fuel contaminated)?

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

206 months

Wednesday 26th June 2013
quotequote all
20-60. I do like the sound of the Millers Semi but I've great oil pressure using 10-40 now. Will see if they do a CCS15-50 I think wink