The learner driver Ford Ka
Discussion
Not much to report on the learner driver front, as girl child is now getting stuck in to lessons with a proper instructor. Once she has the basics and the instructor gives me the thumbs up, I will be taking her out daily for experience.
So in the meantime the Ka has become my little run around whilst the Volvo gets new brakes front and rear.
Have to admit I am enjoying driving the little beastie immensely. Something to be said for utter boggo basic driving. Makes a refreshing change to the Tesla and the xc90!
Couple of improvements on my list. It's very very noisy on most road surfaces and the steering feels very dead. It steers straight, but I am thinking the tracking might need checking. If that doesn't cure it, the yinglang ditchfinders on the front can get replaced with something a bit more quality (and hopefully quieter)
Rear left brake light still needs investigation
I think it has a slight blow on the back box
Both ford badges are tiny splodges of blue on a silver disk. Totally faded and peeled. Might get some retro replacements.
Front windscreen needs a polish. No matter what it looks dirty and grainy like it's got 15 years of mould residue stuck to it. Only really noticeable when the sun shines on it, but I know it's there and it bothers me.
Slight stuttering/misfire feeling at light throttle around 1500rpm seems to be improved now it's had a tank full of petrol and some enthusiastic driving. Might treat it to a tank full of expensive premium stuff and drive it to the office in Manchester next week. 95miles on the motorway at a decent lick with £££ go-go juice should qualify as a Spanish tune up.
So in the meantime the Ka has become my little run around whilst the Volvo gets new brakes front and rear.
Have to admit I am enjoying driving the little beastie immensely. Something to be said for utter boggo basic driving. Makes a refreshing change to the Tesla and the xc90!
Couple of improvements on my list. It's very very noisy on most road surfaces and the steering feels very dead. It steers straight, but I am thinking the tracking might need checking. If that doesn't cure it, the yinglang ditchfinders on the front can get replaced with something a bit more quality (and hopefully quieter)
Rear left brake light still needs investigation
I think it has a slight blow on the back box
Both ford badges are tiny splodges of blue on a silver disk. Totally faded and peeled. Might get some retro replacements.
Front windscreen needs a polish. No matter what it looks dirty and grainy like it's got 15 years of mould residue stuck to it. Only really noticeable when the sun shines on it, but I know it's there and it bothers me.
Slight stuttering/misfire feeling at light throttle around 1500rpm seems to be improved now it's had a tank full of petrol and some enthusiastic driving. Might treat it to a tank full of expensive premium stuff and drive it to the office in Manchester next week. 95miles on the motorway at a decent lick with £££ go-go juice should qualify as a Spanish tune up.
Nicks90 said:
Couple of improvements on my list. It's very very noisy on most road surfaces and the steering feels very dead. It steers straight, but I am thinking the tracking might need checking. If that doesn't cure it, the yinglang ditchfinders on the front can get replaced with something a bit more quality (and hopefully quieter)
Rear left brake light still needs investigation
I think it has a slight blow on the back box
Both ford badges are tiny splodges of blue on a silver disk. Totally faded and peeled. Might get some retro replacements.
Front windscreen needs a polish. No matter what it looks dirty and grainy like it's got 15 years of mould residue stuck to it. Only really noticeable when the sun shines on it, but I know it's there and it bothers me.
Slight stuttering/misfire feeling at light throttle around 1500rpm seems to be improved now it's had a tank full of petrol and some enthusiastic driving. Might treat it to a tank full of expensive premium stuff and drive it to the office in Manchester next week. 95miles on the motorway at a decent lick with £££ go-go juice should qualify as a Spanish tune up.
Been proper lazy and the only thing I've done is polish the front screen and treat it to some nice fuel and a long run.Rear left brake light still needs investigation
I think it has a slight blow on the back box
Both ford badges are tiny splodges of blue on a silver disk. Totally faded and peeled. Might get some retro replacements.
Front windscreen needs a polish. No matter what it looks dirty and grainy like it's got 15 years of mould residue stuck to it. Only really noticeable when the sun shines on it, but I know it's there and it bothers me.
Slight stuttering/misfire feeling at light throttle around 1500rpm seems to be improved now it's had a tank full of petrol and some enthusiastic driving. Might treat it to a tank full of expensive premium stuff and drive it to the office in Manchester next week. 95miles on the motorway at a decent lick with £££ go-go juice should qualify as a Spanish tune up.
Misfire / surging feeling is now much reduced after two trips (200 miles) to the office and the windscreen is actually clear!!!
But to pay me back for my laziness, it's developed a squeak from the front right when going over speed bumps. Could be a control arm or an anti roll bar bush, but I'm definitely going to take a look this weekend
In other news, driving lessons with mini nicks90 has begun. She's had 4 'proper' lessons with an instructor, so I've been taking her out around Wakefield and Dewsbury nearly every day for extra experience.
Two points to note, driving instructors are pussies. So far he has taught her basic driving, left turns at a junction, right turns at a junction and thats about it. No roundabouts, no reversing, cross roads etc..
FFS, Istr that when I learnt to drive it was just in and get on and listen carefully as you go along to the instructor
Point 2, she can drive. She can listen and takes instructions well. 'we're coming to a roundabout, look right and if a cars coming from the right stop at the line. If a car isn't coming from the right, boot it and take the 2nd exit'. Bosh, she's off! Hahaha. So in my lessons, she's done left and right turns off the main road, left and right turns at T junctions, roundabouts (both mini and large and main motorway roundabouts), box junctions, the usual residential roads with cars parked on both sides and incoming traffic, and mostly all around 5-6pm in rush hour traffic. Hehehehe
She's said each time she's nervous as hell, I can tell when she gets very nervous though - as she saws at the wheel, but she's improving massively each time we go out. The more experience she has of driving in those conditions the quicker she will learn and the more confident she will become. Plus her hazard awareness is great, much better than I was at her age and she drives much less aggressively than I did/do
Edited by Nicks90 on Tuesday 23 April 21:46
Nicks90 said:
Couple of improvements on my list. It's very very noisy on most road surfaces and the steering feels very dead. It steers straight, but I am thinking the tracking might need checking. If that doesn't cure it, the yinglang ditchfinders on the front can get replaced with something a bit more quality
For all they'll cost scrap the ropey Chinese Dye-yuns and put a decent brand set of matching tyres on it.Nicks90 said:
But to pay me back for my laziness, it's developed a squeak from the front right when going over speed bumps. Could be a control arm or an anti roll bar bush, but I'm definitely going to take a look this weekend
Mega turn up for the books, went for another driving lesson yesterday, but with the wife in the back as we wanted to get some shopping whilst out and aboutEdited by Nicks90 on Tuesday 23 April 21:46
The squeak is fixed!
What I thought was a squeak from the front suspension turned out to be a bit of trim just below the drivers seat on the cill. Wife gave it a thump and it clipped in to place and the squeak has gone.
The Ka continues to impress me, so far with either a) me driving it like I stole it b) learner driver - it's returned 51mpg since we got it.
MUST get round to looking at that brake light.......
I bought a Ka for my daughter who is learning to drive, great choice
.
I often use it for running around locally. Uses half the fuel of my E43 , it’s fun to drive, the manual box is nice too.
Managed to pick up a Titanium spec with leather interior. Just went through its MOT needing just one tyre and a shock absorber (learner driver’s not yet tuned to avoiding potholes and we have been over loads in the last few months).
.
I often use it for running around locally. Uses half the fuel of my E43 , it’s fun to drive, the manual box is nice too.
Managed to pick up a Titanium spec with leather interior. Just went through its MOT needing just one tyre and a shock absorber (learner driver’s not yet tuned to avoiding potholes and we have been over loads in the last few months).
6 weeks in and an update.
Crotch goblin has had 12 lessons from a proper instructor and nearly 500 miles of seat time with me in the ford ka.
She's taken to this driving thing like a duck to water.
The Ka continues to impress and has returned an overall average of 46.5mpg in the past 900 miles (I like driving it too!)
Things to do,
Ford badges are really bugging me being so faded, so I must get some new ones
It's developed a blowing exhaust, just a tiny bit, so lower priority than the ford badges
The front left has a minor creaking sound when you are turning the wheel right when stationary...hmmm. but doesn't crack when you turn the wheel back to centre or left. Very strange. I did take a look under the left arch and couldn't obviously pinpoint it. But I did see the front left strut is nearly brand new
This piqued my interest so I looked under the front right arch and that was also nice and shiny new! Even the little pinch clips holding the rubber shock boot are uncorroded. Must be at most a year old.
Back left brake light is temperamental and decides when it wants to work, so it hasn't completely fixed itself. Must get around to looking at that.......
As some of you have guessed, my enthusiasm for getting dirty fingernails is very low - for now
As it's being used and abused by a learner, there's no point throwing time and effort getting everything sorted, only for the inevitable to happen 2 minutes later and her hitting a massive pothole or curb (or worse), so I am literally doing nothing as long as the thing starts and stops.
However when she has passed her test and has managed couple of months without crashing it, it will go up on my mates ramps for a week and get a thorough seeing too.
On the cards are new front bottom arms, ARB links, track rod ends, exhaust and new brakes front + rear, plus anything else I see that might not be spot on. She should then be right and can be used and abused as she sees fit for the next few years at uni.
Crotch goblin has had 12 lessons from a proper instructor and nearly 500 miles of seat time with me in the ford ka.
She's taken to this driving thing like a duck to water.
The Ka continues to impress and has returned an overall average of 46.5mpg in the past 900 miles (I like driving it too!)
Things to do,
Ford badges are really bugging me being so faded, so I must get some new ones
It's developed a blowing exhaust, just a tiny bit, so lower priority than the ford badges
The front left has a minor creaking sound when you are turning the wheel right when stationary...hmmm. but doesn't crack when you turn the wheel back to centre or left. Very strange. I did take a look under the left arch and couldn't obviously pinpoint it. But I did see the front left strut is nearly brand new
This piqued my interest so I looked under the front right arch and that was also nice and shiny new! Even the little pinch clips holding the rubber shock boot are uncorroded. Must be at most a year old.
Back left brake light is temperamental and decides when it wants to work, so it hasn't completely fixed itself. Must get around to looking at that.......
As some of you have guessed, my enthusiasm for getting dirty fingernails is very low - for now
As it's being used and abused by a learner, there's no point throwing time and effort getting everything sorted, only for the inevitable to happen 2 minutes later and her hitting a massive pothole or curb (or worse), so I am literally doing nothing as long as the thing starts and stops.
However when she has passed her test and has managed couple of months without crashing it, it will go up on my mates ramps for a week and get a thorough seeing too.
On the cards are new front bottom arms, ARB links, track rod ends, exhaust and new brakes front + rear, plus anything else I see that might not be spot on. She should then be right and can be used and abused as she sees fit for the next few years at uni.
Edited by Nicks90 on Wednesday 5th June 02:16
Minor update and a call out for some help!
Car has been ace, pootling around it's just impressive in it's nippiness and economy. Very easy to drive and the heater is pretty decent too in these less than ideal temperatures
Decided to get in with a few bits and bobs in preparation for mini-me doing her driving test in the new year (waits for a test are insane!!!)
Tracking done, it's about 4mm out and now drives much nicer
Arb link done and the squeak has gone
Dashcam fitted
New wing mirror as the old one had saggy mechanism and everytime you went over a speed bump the mirror would start pointing at the ground and need readjustment
Now on to the call for help. Brakes lights
Drivers side works perfectly, passenger side is now totally broken. Got my trusty meter out and rigged up something for the brake pedal and identified which track does the brake bulb and tested both sides. Drivers side a nice steady full voltage. Passenger side 3.4v
Hmmm
Find which wire in the connector block feeds the track and stick the meter in it and that's also only delivering 3.4v
Bugger
Any ford experts have a suggestion as to why it's only delivering 3v and if it's a broken wire in the loom further up, where the common points are - before I have to remove the majority of the interior to manually track it?
Alternatively is it feasible to break in to the 12v drivers side brake bulb wire and run a feed from that across the boot floor and snip the passenger side wire inside the boot and feed it from the drivers side? I know, proppa boggit n leggit, but need must on an old car
Edited to add, the high level brake light and other boot lid wiring it notorious for being s
t, and I've had to do a repair on that already. I don't suppose the left hand brake light circuit also feeds the high level light and it's leaking eeeelectrikery on a dodgy joint in the boot lid?
Car has been ace, pootling around it's just impressive in it's nippiness and economy. Very easy to drive and the heater is pretty decent too in these less than ideal temperatures
Decided to get in with a few bits and bobs in preparation for mini-me doing her driving test in the new year (waits for a test are insane!!!)
Tracking done, it's about 4mm out and now drives much nicer
Arb link done and the squeak has gone
Dashcam fitted
New wing mirror as the old one had saggy mechanism and everytime you went over a speed bump the mirror would start pointing at the ground and need readjustment
Now on to the call for help. Brakes lights
Drivers side works perfectly, passenger side is now totally broken. Got my trusty meter out and rigged up something for the brake pedal and identified which track does the brake bulb and tested both sides. Drivers side a nice steady full voltage. Passenger side 3.4v
Hmmm
Find which wire in the connector block feeds the track and stick the meter in it and that's also only delivering 3.4v
Bugger
Any ford experts have a suggestion as to why it's only delivering 3v and if it's a broken wire in the loom further up, where the common points are - before I have to remove the majority of the interior to manually track it?
Alternatively is it feasible to break in to the 12v drivers side brake bulb wire and run a feed from that across the boot floor and snip the passenger side wire inside the boot and feed it from the drivers side? I know, proppa boggit n leggit, but need must on an old car
Edited to add, the high level brake light and other boot lid wiring it notorious for being s
t, and I've had to do a repair on that already. I don't suppose the left hand brake light circuit also feeds the high level light and it's leaking eeeelectrikery on a dodgy joint in the boot lid?Edited by Nicks90 on Sunday 8th December 12:01
If you're getting 3.4v I'd be looking for corroded joints or wires - obvious places are the back of the plug that goes into the brake light assembly, but could be anywhere there is a joint. If that is the only light in that cluster with a problem then the earth will be OK.
Rig up a temporary wire from the other side to prove the cluster is OK and then work backwards.
Use the temporary wire as you work backwards to bypass parts of the loom until you find the problem
Putting a. Permanent link in is definitely bodgit and scarper, OK provided the wire the the first light is big enough to take double the current 😉😉
Rig up a temporary wire from the other side to prove the cluster is OK and then work backwards.
Use the temporary wire as you work backwards to bypass parts of the loom until you find the problem
Putting a. Permanent link in is definitely bodgit and scarper, OK provided the wire the the first light is big enough to take double the current 😉😉
Konrod said:
If you're getting 3.4v I'd be looking for corroded joints or wires - obvious places are the back of the plug that goes into the brake light assembly, but could be anywhere there is a joint. If that is the only light in that cluster with a problem then the earth will be OK.
Rig up a temporary wire from the other side to prove the cluster is OK and then work backwards.
Use the temporary wire as you work backwards to bypass parts of the loom until you find the problem
Putting a. Permanent link in is definitely bodgit and scarper, OK provided the wire the the first light is big enough to take double the current ????
Yeah it's definitely the only bulb in the cluster with a problemRig up a temporary wire from the other side to prove the cluster is OK and then work backwards.
Use the temporary wire as you work backwards to bypass parts of the loom until you find the problem
Putting a. Permanent link in is definitely bodgit and scarper, OK provided the wire the the first light is big enough to take double the current ????
The plug connector looks ok, but what I might do is pierce the insulation on the boot side of the wire and check the voltage their, rather than at the pin. If that's still 3v I will know it's a wiring fault and not a ropey connector block on the back of the light unit
High level light on the boot lid is 12v and shining bright, so I don't see how my previous "edit: is that f
king it up" would be the case, so let's see what happens by piercing the wire further up tells me.Hates electric. Mechanical is good, you can see / feel / hear when it's knackered....but electrics is all black magic
Late to this thread.
I bought 2 Ford Ka’s for my daughters. A Zetec which appears to be quite good and a Style which is ok.
Both eat rear light clusters for breakfast.
I just buy a second hand unit on eBay and swap them out.
I too have a brake light issue. So it’ll need a new cluster. Check that the pins in the connector are not bent.
I then sell the old ones as spares and repairs and get most of my money back.
Couple of things you do need to know about Ka’s
If you get a Knocking from the rear is rear shocks. Piece of piss to change get them done.
They need a cambelt at 60k miles or 10 years.
Thermostat will fail. Again a piece of piss to change, don’t get suckered into being told it’s something else when the coolant runs out and the temperature goes into the red.
Also clutch slave cylinder fails. Again a piece of piss to change.
They do do clutches and gearboxes so keep an eye out for that.
Change the gearbox oil regularly, if the gearlinkage is a bit stiff then change it it’s not that bad a job and makes all the difference. The perception is that the gearbox is on the way out, but it’s often a sticky linkage
If the ABS light comes on it’s the rear sensor and wiring into the hub. Again easy to change.
It probably doesn’t stop/start either. That’s down to not having the correct battery fitted.
I bought my kids cars, service them, tax them but I get them to pay for the insurance, else they’ve got a company car!
Finally there are loads of repair videos on YouTube but I find searching for Fiat 500 repairs brings better results.
I bought 2 Ford Ka’s for my daughters. A Zetec which appears to be quite good and a Style which is ok.
Both eat rear light clusters for breakfast.
I just buy a second hand unit on eBay and swap them out.
I too have a brake light issue. So it’ll need a new cluster. Check that the pins in the connector are not bent.
I then sell the old ones as spares and repairs and get most of my money back.
Couple of things you do need to know about Ka’s
If you get a Knocking from the rear is rear shocks. Piece of piss to change get them done.
They need a cambelt at 60k miles or 10 years.
Thermostat will fail. Again a piece of piss to change, don’t get suckered into being told it’s something else when the coolant runs out and the temperature goes into the red.
Also clutch slave cylinder fails. Again a piece of piss to change.
They do do clutches and gearboxes so keep an eye out for that.
Change the gearbox oil regularly, if the gearlinkage is a bit stiff then change it it’s not that bad a job and makes all the difference. The perception is that the gearbox is on the way out, but it’s often a sticky linkage
If the ABS light comes on it’s the rear sensor and wiring into the hub. Again easy to change.
It probably doesn’t stop/start either. That’s down to not having the correct battery fitted.
I bought my kids cars, service them, tax them but I get them to pay for the insurance, else they’ve got a company car!
Finally there are loads of repair videos on YouTube but I find searching for Fiat 500 repairs brings better results.
Edited by Dynion Araf Uchaf on Sunday 8th December 21:06
Dynion Araf Uchaf said:
Late to this thread.
I bought 2 Ford Ka’s for my daughters. A Zetec which appears to be quite good and a Style which is ok.
Both eat rear light clusters for breakfast.
I just buy a second hand unit on eBay and swap them out.
I too have a brake light issue. So it’ll need a new cluster. Check that the pins in the connector are not bent.
I then sell the old ones as spares and repairs and get most of my money back.
Couple of things you do need to know about Ka’s
If you get a Knocking from the rear is rear shocks. Piece of piss to change get them done.
They need a cambelt at 60k miles or 10 years.
Thermostat will fail. Again a piece of piss to change, don’t get suckered into being told it’s something else when the coolant runs out and the temperature goes into the red.
Also clutch slave cylinder fails. Again a piece of piss to change.
They do do clutches and gearboxes so keep an eye out for that.
Change the gearbox oil regularly, if the gearlinkage is a bit stiff then change it it’s not that bad a job and makes all the difference. The perception is that the gearbox is on the way out, but it’s often a sticky linkage
If the ABS light comes on it’s the rear sensor and wiring into the hub. Again easy to change.
It probably doesn’t stop/start either. That’s down to not having the correct battery fitted.
I bought my kids cars, service them, tax them but I get them to pay for the insurance, else they’ve got a company car!
Finally there are loads of repair videos on YouTube but I find searching for Fiat 500 repairs brings better results.
Cheers for that, really helpful - as the clutch is starting to feel a bit whooly, so I think a slave cylinder might be on the cards as a first step before paying for a new clutch.I bought 2 Ford Ka’s for my daughters. A Zetec which appears to be quite good and a Style which is ok.
Both eat rear light clusters for breakfast.
I just buy a second hand unit on eBay and swap them out.
I too have a brake light issue. So it’ll need a new cluster. Check that the pins in the connector are not bent.
I then sell the old ones as spares and repairs and get most of my money back.
Couple of things you do need to know about Ka’s
If you get a Knocking from the rear is rear shocks. Piece of piss to change get them done.
They need a cambelt at 60k miles or 10 years.
Thermostat will fail. Again a piece of piss to change, don’t get suckered into being told it’s something else when the coolant runs out and the temperature goes into the red.
Also clutch slave cylinder fails. Again a piece of piss to change.
They do do clutches and gearboxes so keep an eye out for that.
Change the gearbox oil regularly, if the gearlinkage is a bit stiff then change it it’s not that bad a job and makes all the difference. The perception is that the gearbox is on the way out, but it’s often a sticky linkage
If the ABS light comes on it’s the rear sensor and wiring into the hub. Again easy to change.
It probably doesn’t stop/start either. That’s down to not having the correct battery fitted.
I bought my kids cars, service them, tax them but I get them to pay for the insurance, else they’ve got a company car!
Finally there are loads of repair videos on YouTube but I find searching for Fiat 500 repairs brings better results.
Edited by Dynion Araf Uchaf on Sunday 8th December 21:06
As for the rear clusters, appreciate what your saying, but in this case it's the voltage toooo the cluster that seems to be the issue, not the light itself
Further digging will take place this weekend
[quote] They need a cambelt at 60k miles or 10 years.
Thermostat will fail. Again a piece of piss to change, don’t get suckered into being told it’s something else when the coolant runs out and the temperature goes into the red. [/Quote]
Hers is on 64k and 14 years old. What's the bet it's never been changed.
Another thing for the list of jobs
Thermostat will fail. Again a piece of piss to change, don’t get suckered into being told it’s something else when the coolant runs out and the temperature goes into the red. [/Quote]
Hers is on 64k and 14 years old. What's the bet it's never been changed.
Another thing for the list of jobs
sorry all, another reach out to the ford massive on here regarding electrics
so previously i said i was getting 3v to the left hand rear brake light - turns out my mm was a bit squiffy and it actually reads 5v
decided to test properly and disconnected both rear light clusters and peel a tiny bit of insulation off both the wires just inside the boot. now i am properly confused.
ignition on and brake pedal pressed
back left 5v at the wire and 5v at the connector
back right 5v at the wire and 5v at the connector
wtf
so remove the bulb holders from the plastic light lens unit and plug both the rear bulb holders back in and get
back left 5v at the wire and 5v on the metal track on the bulb holder
back right 12v at the wire and 12v on the metal track on the bulb holder
soooooooo - i am presuming somehow that there is a fault in the bulb holder unit on the back left and its not doing something thats upping the draw from 5v to 12v
never ever have i come across this before so i am totally confused. Do i just buy a new rear left light cluster, or is this indicative of something utterly frikkin bonkers with the electrics on this car?
and typically its mot runs out next week.
so previously i said i was getting 3v to the left hand rear brake light - turns out my mm was a bit squiffy and it actually reads 5v
decided to test properly and disconnected both rear light clusters and peel a tiny bit of insulation off both the wires just inside the boot. now i am properly confused.
ignition on and brake pedal pressed
back left 5v at the wire and 5v at the connector
back right 5v at the wire and 5v at the connector
wtf
so remove the bulb holders from the plastic light lens unit and plug both the rear bulb holders back in and get
back left 5v at the wire and 5v on the metal track on the bulb holder
back right 12v at the wire and 12v on the metal track on the bulb holder
soooooooo - i am presuming somehow that there is a fault in the bulb holder unit on the back left and its not doing something thats upping the draw from 5v to 12v
never ever have i come across this before so i am totally confused. Do i just buy a new rear left light cluster, or is this indicative of something utterly frikkin bonkers with the electrics on this car?
and typically its mot runs out next week.
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