replacing clutch master cylinder
Discussion
alright, my clutch master cylinder needs replacing as it has a leak, i believe they recommend changing the slave at the same time?
firstly is it a tvr specific part? or can i avoid the tvr premium by buying whatever it from somewhere else
also where do i tackle this from? it appears to live in a void infront of the bulkhead under the wing. is there an access panel in the wing to get to it? or is it all down the hole which is over the resevoir?
firstly is it a tvr specific part? or can i avoid the tvr premium by buying whatever it from somewhere else
also where do i tackle this from? it appears to live in a void infront of the bulkhead under the wing. is there an access panel in the wing to get to it? or is it all down the hole which is over the resevoir?
I am not a mechanic! I only know how to drive cars! I am only tying to help!This needs verifying!(Disclaimers complete)
Master cylinder in the "void" under a plastic cover. Sealed in - I used a stanley knife to get to mine (be careful!).
Slave, although mine wasn't changed when I got a new master, is above the pedal.
Master cylinder in the "void" under a plastic cover. Sealed in - I used a stanley knife to get to mine (be careful!).
Slave, although mine wasn't changed when I got a new master, is above the pedal.
It's under the removeable cover on the driver's side inner wing, usually stuck on with silicone and has screws.
First thing to do once you got the cover off is to drain as much of the fluid as you can cos any leaks will run down and get on your footwell carpet.
If you are planning to take it out on your own, don't! You need to remove the nyloc nuts above and below the body of the cylinder, so will need somebody down the footwell on the other end of the bolts.
Undo the pipe union, nuts as above, and remove the split pin and rod where the pushrod attaches to the clutch pedal (again down the footwell, obviously).
A new TVR part will be 50 quid plus. A new land rover/morris marina one of the same bore will be anything from 12 quid (ebay) to 25 quid (Willwood one from Rally Design). Unless you get the TVR one you will probably have to remove the section of copper pipe to the cylider, by undoing the union high up on the left side of the footwell. This union goes through into the engine bay and is undone by holding the union still with one size spanner and undoing with another spanner, both from inside the footwell. Do not get someone to hold the engine side (as that could undo the wrong bit of tube IYSWIM). Get your local friendly brake place to replace and reflare the union to fit to the new cylinder, as TVR used odd sized unions (probably deliberately to make the cheap 'uns not fit!). My local place did a union like this for a quid. If you get stuck Rally Design can make up a braided section of pipe to match the relevant fittings for a tenner.
Good luck, and BTW you might need a cranked spanner to get the lower mounting nut off the cylinder, access is a b
h!
Replace, bleed (you will need to refill the cylinder VERY often to avoid blowing air into the system, guess how I know
)
First thing to do once you got the cover off is to drain as much of the fluid as you can cos any leaks will run down and get on your footwell carpet.
If you are planning to take it out on your own, don't! You need to remove the nyloc nuts above and below the body of the cylinder, so will need somebody down the footwell on the other end of the bolts.
Undo the pipe union, nuts as above, and remove the split pin and rod where the pushrod attaches to the clutch pedal (again down the footwell, obviously).
A new TVR part will be 50 quid plus. A new land rover/morris marina one of the same bore will be anything from 12 quid (ebay) to 25 quid (Willwood one from Rally Design). Unless you get the TVR one you will probably have to remove the section of copper pipe to the cylider, by undoing the union high up on the left side of the footwell. This union goes through into the engine bay and is undone by holding the union still with one size spanner and undoing with another spanner, both from inside the footwell. Do not get someone to hold the engine side (as that could undo the wrong bit of tube IYSWIM). Get your local friendly brake place to replace and reflare the union to fit to the new cylinder, as TVR used odd sized unions (probably deliberately to make the cheap 'uns not fit!). My local place did a union like this for a quid. If you get stuck Rally Design can make up a braided section of pipe to match the relevant fittings for a tenner.
Good luck, and BTW you might need a cranked spanner to get the lower mounting nut off the cylinder, access is a b
h!Replace, bleed (you will need to refill the cylinder VERY often to avoid blowing air into the system, guess how I know
)If your master cylinder is leaking, try to stop any drips getting on any other parts of car i.e. pedals/carpet etc. – clutch fluid is nasty stuff.
The master clutch cylinder is supposedly a specific part, although you will find references to casting numbers etc for the main body, however apparently they were valved specifically for TVR. The casting number is referenced to a Hillman Imp according to one of the alternative parts pages, but good luck finding anyone who can source them.
I replaced mine recently, and spent the best part of two days trying to find any alternative parts that would fit, as didn’t want to pay what seems like twice the price for what is basically the same Ford part. I ended up finding a proper part at a breakers – but was lucky. As you have been advised, you may be better off purchasing a proper part for piece of mind, and ease of finding.
Yes, master cylinder can be found under the oval plastic cover on the driver’s side wing which is sealed with mastic. This, and from the pedal side seems to be the only means of access. It’s not difficult to replace, but is a bit fiddly, and much easier with two people. Accessing and tightening the bolts to hold it in place is the tricky bit.
Good luck.
The master clutch cylinder is supposedly a specific part, although you will find references to casting numbers etc for the main body, however apparently they were valved specifically for TVR. The casting number is referenced to a Hillman Imp according to one of the alternative parts pages, but good luck finding anyone who can source them.
I replaced mine recently, and spent the best part of two days trying to find any alternative parts that would fit, as didn’t want to pay what seems like twice the price for what is basically the same Ford part. I ended up finding a proper part at a breakers – but was lucky. As you have been advised, you may be better off purchasing a proper part for piece of mind, and ease of finding.
Yes, master cylinder can be found under the oval plastic cover on the driver’s side wing which is sealed with mastic. This, and from the pedal side seems to be the only means of access. It’s not difficult to replace, but is a bit fiddly, and much easier with two people. Accessing and tightening the bolts to hold it in place is the tricky bit.
Good luck.
Teetertank - can't think you'd need specific valving for what is a simple part that just moves a bit of fluid from one cylinder to another? I reckon TVR just ordered a bog standard part but used the next size up fitting to the commonly used one to make the part "TVR specific". ISTR someone on here did that - bought a triumph bit and drilled and tapped the female fitting to fit the tivver union...
If it was brakes I think you would need to be careful in selecting the right pattern M/cyl but a slightly different clutch pedal feel isn't going to compromise safety? By the sound of it, clutches vary in feel a lot from car to car anyway?
Cheers
Schmo
If it was brakes I think you would need to be careful in selecting the right pattern M/cyl but a slightly different clutch pedal feel isn't going to compromise safety? By the sound of it, clutches vary in feel a lot from car to car anyway?
Cheers
Schmo
Changed both the Slave and Master units on my 1993 Chim
I have to agree with the comments above it really is a two person job but can be done in just over an hour.
The slave Cylinder is mounted on the gearbox so you do require axle stands etc to gain access
I purchased the correct TVR parts from the TVR shop and to be honest the hassle factor of trying to fit alternative parts and the few extra pounds seemed worthwhile
I have to agree with the comments above it really is a two person job but can be done in just over an hour.
The slave Cylinder is mounted on the gearbox so you do require axle stands etc to gain access
I purchased the correct TVR parts from the TVR shop and to be honest the hassle factor of trying to fit alternative parts and the few extra pounds seemed worthwhile
Schmo, The TVR specific valving is what at least one clutch supplier gave as the reason I shouldn’t use an alternative part. I suspect you are right though, and even at the time felt it was probably just scaremongering. I ended up with a used TVR part so at least I knew it would fit – but had major problems trying to source an alternative unit, and having never replaced one before, just wanted to be safe, and avoid any necessary modifications. I’m sure your right in what you say.
dorrick and teeter, it's always the toss up between time spent/wasted finding the bit and shelling out for the guaranteed expensive bit that will fit. Dorrick, if you managed to change the clutch and brake m/cyls in an hour then 
! took me two days with the pedal box out!
The above shows the importance of the alternative parts list. Speaking of which, it used to be a wiki but it's gone?
! took me two days with the pedal box out!The above shows the importance of the alternative parts list. Speaking of which, it used to be a wiki but it's gone?
dorrick said:
Changed both the Slave and Master units on my 1993 Chim
I have to agree with the comments above it really is a two person job but can be done in just over an hour.
The slave Cylinder is mounted on the gearbox so you do require axle stands etc to gain access
I purchased the correct TVR parts from the TVR shop and to be honest the hassle factor of trying to fit alternative parts and the few extra pounds seemed worthwhile
What he said. By the time you've found either the braided flexy or done the flaring/renew union to fit the TVR branded replacement you'll have spent £20-£30!! in petrol, phone calls and general frustration.I have to agree with the comments above it really is a two person job but can be done in just over an hour.
The slave Cylinder is mounted on the gearbox so you do require axle stands etc to gain access
I purchased the correct TVR parts from the TVR shop and to be honest the hassle factor of trying to fit alternative parts and the few extra pounds seemed worthwhile
I did my master cylinder just before LeMans last year, think it was £52 + VAT from clevor trevor(?). I found a good blob of superglue on both bolts pushing them thru the holes on the cylinder casting, allowed me to locate the cylinder on the pedal box frame and tighten up the nyloc nuts - Job done. Made easier with the bleeding kit with a NRV on it to allow one man operation.
HTH Nick
just confirm, i've been looking around and there are girling part numbers for the master cylinder, but will the union be wrong?
can i not just get a seal kit and rebuild? considering i need to get the damn thing working pronto am i best just to stick a new one in, 70 quid delivered though is a bit bloody steep
if i got a seal kit how long would it take to do?
can i not just get a seal kit and rebuild? considering i need to get the damn thing working pronto am i best just to stick a new one in, 70 quid delivered though is a bit bloody steep
if i got a seal kit how long would it take to do?
Seal kit can last a long time and can be fitted from inside the car without removing the master cylinder. It's a Lucas/Girling SP2102 and costs about £8 from a decent motor factors. If the piston or cylinder is scored (very likely) the seal kit won't last as long.
When you remove the pushrod from the clutch pedal, make a note of which hole it's attached to in the pedal: there are often two, close together, but using one would leave the pushrod more off-square than the other.
When you remove the pushrod from the clutch pedal, make a note of which hole it's attached to in the pedal: there are often two, close together, but using one would leave the pushrod more off-square than the other.
OK folks Smokin1 gives some good money saving tips here.
The master cylinder is Girling part number 64066117.
The important thing to know is the bore size, WHAT YOU NEED IS A 0.70" GIRLING CYLINDER.
This cylinder was actually used by TVR way back in the 1960's, hover the true origin is a left hand drive Triumph TR6 if you absolutely must have the correct push rod.
Most of the Triumph TR specialist should be able to help you.
But why bother paying over the odds when this is such a common part, the Girling 0.70" cylinder was fitted to lots of 1960's BMC junk, only the push rod changes from application to application.
Changing the push rod is no more difficult than removing a circlip, just use your old pushrod in the new cylinder.
So find a cheap new 0.70" cylinder and get your circlip pliers from the bottom of your tool box (a small flat blade screwdriver will do it).
The Wilwood one from Rally Design is as cheap as you will find anywhere, well done Smokin1 you found a great price.
With a complete new cylinder for less than £30.00 I wouldn't bother re-sealing your old one, Girling and the later repro companies all made the bore from chocolate, a small score will have you starting all over again in a few days.
Do it right, do it once.
The master cylinder is Girling part number 64066117.
The important thing to know is the bore size, WHAT YOU NEED IS A 0.70" GIRLING CYLINDER.
This cylinder was actually used by TVR way back in the 1960's, hover the true origin is a left hand drive Triumph TR6 if you absolutely must have the correct push rod.
Most of the Triumph TR specialist should be able to help you.
But why bother paying over the odds when this is such a common part, the Girling 0.70" cylinder was fitted to lots of 1960's BMC junk, only the push rod changes from application to application.
Changing the push rod is no more difficult than removing a circlip, just use your old pushrod in the new cylinder.
So find a cheap new 0.70" cylinder and get your circlip pliers from the bottom of your tool box (a small flat blade screwdriver will do it).
The Wilwood one from Rally Design is as cheap as you will find anywhere, well done Smokin1 you found a great price.
With a complete new cylinder for less than £30.00 I wouldn't bother re-sealing your old one, Girling and the later repro companies all made the bore from chocolate, a small score will have you starting all over again in a few days.
Do it right, do it once.
has anyone got any instructions for changing the seals in situ? also any instructions for bleeding the system, never done this before but would like to have a go, as whats the worst that can happen.......... no clutch at the moment, if i balls it up still no clutch and a few scratches to my knuckles
cheers
cheers
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