Duratec / imperial chassis build thread.
Discussion
I recon the rosejoint is fine, but I'd be inclined to use an 8.8 grade bolt.
My thinking on this is it's softer, so would bend first, so less likely to shear than the harder grade. Just my opinion. I stand to be corrected.
Regarding parts, I find the guys realy helpfull. I think it must be whoever picks the parts that doesn't read the notes.
I took loads of wrong parts back to Dartford on my last visit to U.K.
3 sets of ARB droplinks
2 sets of watts belcranks
1 set of watts linkage rosejoints
1 set watts belcrank spacers
and other stuff I can't remember.
To be fair, the second set of bellcranks where correct, but the rosejoints wouldn't fit them, because they where wrong.
I've had to send back two suspension hardware packs,(Metric)and when my special order 8% LHD SV rack arrived (£315+VAT! I still have a sore bum from that one!)it was a 22%.
That's not mentioning the shortages. I ask you, who orders 1 steering rack clamp? or half a column clamp?
And I still have quite a bit more stuff to come.
It's quite frustrating, as it costs a fortune to send stuff back from here, and it's an hour in the post office. (Spanish apathy)
Anyway, as I say, they where very good at sorting it all out for me.
But so they should be eh?
So back to your car...any more pics?
My thinking on this is it's softer, so would bend first, so less likely to shear than the harder grade. Just my opinion. I stand to be corrected.
Regarding parts, I find the guys realy helpfull. I think it must be whoever picks the parts that doesn't read the notes.
I took loads of wrong parts back to Dartford on my last visit to U.K.
3 sets of ARB droplinks
2 sets of watts belcranks
1 set of watts linkage rosejoints
1 set watts belcrank spacers
and other stuff I can't remember.
To be fair, the second set of bellcranks where correct, but the rosejoints wouldn't fit them, because they where wrong.
I've had to send back two suspension hardware packs,(Metric)and when my special order 8% LHD SV rack arrived (£315+VAT! I still have a sore bum from that one!)it was a 22%.
That's not mentioning the shortages. I ask you, who orders 1 steering rack clamp? or half a column clamp?
And I still have quite a bit more stuff to come.
It's quite frustrating, as it costs a fortune to send stuff back from here, and it's an hour in the post office. (Spanish apathy)
Anyway, as I say, they where very good at sorting it all out for me.
But so they should be eh?
So back to your car...any more pics?
Purespeed said:
Talking of pedal boxes, is my M8 rose joint on the brake master cylinder a bad idea or not??
cheers
Jason
I think on a safety critical item like this, there will be a reluctance to offer comment on the web. But if you want a test driver, I’d be happy to oblige. cheers
Jason
If you’re unhappy, why not put a second rose joint on the other side and connect them together at the threaded end with a thick plate (or nuts welded together). It would help reduce the twisting on the bolt and provide some redundancy.
Edited by David Long on Sunday 12th December 12:40
Jason,
So I assume you have discounted the standard clevis as the pedal and master cylinder shaft will not be aligned?
Two things spring to mind, one change the pedal to one with a bend in it so that the top would align with a standard clevis but the pedal pad is in the same location as present.
Or two, add a section to the top of the brake pedal to form a fork at the top so that the rose joint bolt is in double shear. The rose joint it's self will be rated for axial load. By measuring the pedal ratio you can calculate the load going through the joint. 500N is the legal max pedal load used in brake testing but of course if you have hulk legs you could push more than this. So you could allow a factor of safety of may be 1.5 to 2? Where would that place you compared to the joints rated max load?
Cheers
Guy
So I assume you have discounted the standard clevis as the pedal and master cylinder shaft will not be aligned?
Two things spring to mind, one change the pedal to one with a bend in it so that the top would align with a standard clevis but the pedal pad is in the same location as present.
Or two, add a section to the top of the brake pedal to form a fork at the top so that the rose joint bolt is in double shear. The rose joint it's self will be rated for axial load. By measuring the pedal ratio you can calculate the load going through the joint. 500N is the legal max pedal load used in brake testing but of course if you have hulk legs you could push more than this. So you could allow a factor of safety of may be 1.5 to 2? Where would that place you compared to the joints rated max load?
Cheers
Guy
Good install, the p clips are working nicely. I know you have fitted it but is there room infront of the passenger footwell in the engine bay to accept the dry sump tank, you may find it would get 'x' litres/kg closer to the center of the car, although if the battery is there it might not be viable.....my one sits in the passenger footwell which might not suit as well. You can also put the batt where the heater sits.....if you havent got one!!
http://www.hwrmotorsport.co.uk/gallery/
Have a look at four down three in on the photos.
http://www.hwrmotorsport.co.uk/gallery/
Have a look at four down three in on the photos.
Jason
I like your scuttle fixing method with the dome screws. But what have you done about the fixings behind the heater ? I am looking at doing similar and I am considering cutting away some of the heater plastic to provide clearance, and fabricating a bracket to hold the rubber seal. My aim is to be able to remove scuttle without disturbing heater.
Great build, by the way !
Angus
I like your scuttle fixing method with the dome screws. But what have you done about the fixings behind the heater ? I am looking at doing similar and I am considering cutting away some of the heater plastic to provide clearance, and fabricating a bracket to hold the rubber seal. My aim is to be able to remove scuttle without disturbing heater.
Great build, by the way !
Angus
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