S3 Fuel sender - help

[Smokey Boyer]

The fuel gauge on my S3 has never reliably worked since I purchased the car a few weeks ago. The seller did point this out, and as he said it worked occasionally when the tank had more fuel in it, I assumed it was a loose/faulty electrical connection given that they are exposed in the rear wheel arch.

Today, I have cleaned the spades on the fuel sender, and put new ends on the green and black cables. The fuel sender is S29L 10039 according to other posts and is the one with three vertical spade connections, with the wires connected to the top two.

I have proved (I think) that the gauge and wiring is ok, as the gauge reads a full tank if I connect the two wires together.

Despite this the gauge still does not show anything when connected to the sender.

Is there anything else to check before I buy another sender.

Assuming that I do need a new sender, can anyone confirm what parts I need. Looking at some of the other posts on this site I think this is the right part ebay

Other posts suggest that the wire needs bending on the new sender, but I am keen to know what shape it needs bending to. Is this a tricky job to do, and is there anything to watch out for that might go wrong (other than burning my car and house down to the ground).

[mikel003003]

That looks right, you will be able to copy the wire when you take the old one out

[Smokey Boyer]

Are there any other earth connections on the tank that I need to check?

[v8s4me]

My fuel gauge has the same symptoms so I may need to do this job myself so I’ll be watching this thread with interest. Based on earlier threads on this subject I would guess the tricky part will be getting the new part to seal and not leak. What success have others had? Ines a V8S but I’m assuming the part is the same.

[mikel003003]

My tank has got an earth tab but no wire connected, got a good seal with plenty of instant gasget

[Griffinr]

Mine played up the same when I had the car, bounced around all over the place, but I managed to fix it. Took the sender out bent the contact a bit to make sure it pressed against the track and also re-soldered the 2 connections to the circuit board. They looked ok but must have been dry joints. Been fixed 2 years now and still works perfectly apart from the usual drift on corners.

Rob.

[Smokey Boyer]

I have got a new sender, lock ring, seal and gasket sealant on order, and will tackle this later in the week when I have an hour or two spare.

I will try and repair the sender in the car, as I am sure it is just a dry joint or loose connection, but if that fails I have the new sender on hand and ready to put in with a re-shaped wire.

Will let you know how I get on, and try and remember to take some photos.

[v8s4me]

Did you know a V8S will do 236.9 miles on a tank of petrol? Luckily the last 0.1 was down hill. I really ought to fix that fuel gauge

[Smokey Boyer]

With all the bits, I set out to change the fuel sender this morning.

Took about 45 minutes to do, including time spent cleaning the tank to ensure that the seal was good.

I have left the hermetite to seal, and will go and fill the tank tomorrow - hoping the sender still works and there are no leaks.

I did try and remember to take some photos, but as is always the case, got carried away with the job itself. However there are some here


One of the photos shows the old sender (the brown part, with the new sender fitted with the original float and wire, and the new wire to the side. The wire was very easy to remove and swap over.

The lock ring is easy enough to remove, giving it some gentle persuasion with a hammer and wooden block. I fitted a new lock ring and seal. The parts were from ebay and cost about £20.

[v8s4me]

Thanks for the update and good luck on the seal. Was that red Hermetite you used?

[Smokey Boyer]

yes it was - putting my faith in that

[v8s4me]

Old school but used to work wonders on my old British motor bikes.

[Gerald-TVR]

If you find it difficult to get the seal petrol tight Adrian Venn Exactly TVR get new seals made in various thicknesses if I recall correctly it took a 5mm thick seal and good old red hermatite to get my sender sealed.

Norman

[Smokey Boyer]

Filled up this morning on my way to the Wonderland Car show at Hoveringham, Notts. Gauge appears to be working ok, and no obvious leaks so far.

[v8s4me]

Brilliant! Well done and thanks for the info. I’ll do this once it comes off the road in September. Any sooner would be tempting fate

[v8s4me]

Just a quick double check please before I buy. Was this the item you bought?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330853614580?ssPageName=...

Many thanks.
Joe

[mikel003003]

That's the one.

[Smokey Boyer]

Yes, that is the right one. You can just swap the float and wire from the old sender the the new one.

Make sure you get a new lock ring and seal, which is not included despite them being in the picture.

[v8s4me]

Thanks for the tip. Where do I get the new ring and seal from?

[Ragtop]

From the same dealer - read the advert!

Graham