Cossy sold and Jag bought - the hard work begins next week
Discussion
LLantrisant said:
i started reading this thread with interest...until the stage where the chassis got painted....i was shocked...how somebody can invest so much work in a car and than the chassis-paintjob is done in such a way?
it would have been so easy in that stage to get the chassis on bare metal (e.g. chemical reoval by a specialst) and than built up a new coating (powder, galvanizing, paint)....now it really looks like a botch in a shed job....sorry to say that.
Why does anyone feel the need to criticise others hard work (although well intended I'm sure) ?it would have been so easy in that stage to get the chassis on bare metal (e.g. chemical reoval by a specialst) and than built up a new coating (powder, galvanizing, paint)....now it really looks like a botch in a shed job....sorry to say that.
If its not for you that's fine, but personally I would prefer to read promotion (ie. Of your work) rather than the condemnation of others efforts.
(Politicians take note)
T.
Blue 30 said:
Why does anyone feel the need to criticise others hard work (although well intended I'm sure) ?
If its not for you that's fine, but personally I would prefer to read promotion (ie. Of your work) rather than the condemnation of others efforts.
(Politicians take note)
T.
I'm sure it was well intended, but there are usually more than one way to do any job correctly. There has been a few recent threads on various coatings used on chassis with probable better longevity than powder coating. My experience is that unless the preparation is spot on then powder coating can end up with rust under it. But it would be the preferred method if brushing or spraying cannot reach all areas e.g. trailing arms. If its not for you that's fine, but personally I would prefer to read promotion (ie. Of your work) rather than the condemnation of others efforts.
(Politicians take note)
T.
The chassis on my S is in great condition with no rust but I wanted to change it's colour to black hence a couple of coats of smoothrite.
Re chassis , i had a tvr s2 back in 1991 , it was a 89 car , owned by tvr as a protoptype model , s2 with cats and air con .nimbus grey with dark green leather . it had been crashed and we bought it from the salvage yard and repaired it ..
Getting to the point , it had a white powder coated chassis , and in numerous places the powder coating had water under it that had rusted the chassis ..by 2000 it need a new rear swinging arm .
regards
robert.
Getting to the point , it had a white powder coated chassis , and in numerous places the powder coating had water under it that had rusted the chassis ..by 2000 it need a new rear swinging arm .
regards
robert.
Back to the build - This is my last week off before going back full time for 2 months.
Plumbed the clutch and brake lines to the master cylinders - will add fluid tomorrow
Wired the Speedo and Reverse to the gearbox - sod of a job and had my hand stuck for ten minutes while trying to get my hand back out from above the exhaust - trapped
Wired the crank sensor, all 6 coil on plugs, both vvt's, cam sensor and the O2 sensor in the exhaust.
Started to make the inlet
sits nice and low
Plumbed the clutch and brake lines to the master cylinders - will add fluid tomorrow
Wired the Speedo and Reverse to the gearbox - sod of a job and had my hand stuck for ten minutes while trying to get my hand back out from above the exhaust - trapped
Wired the crank sensor, all 6 coil on plugs, both vvt's, cam sensor and the O2 sensor in the exhaust.
Started to make the inlet
sits nice and low
ivanhoew said:
Re chassis , i had a tvr s2 back in 1991 , it was a 89 car , owned by tvr as a protoptype model , s2 with cats and air con .nimbus grey with dark green leather . it had been crashed and we bought it from the salvage yard and repaired it ..
Getting to the point , it had a white powder coated chassis , and in numerous places the powder coating had water under it that had rusted the chassis ..by 2000 it need a new rear swinging arm .
regards
robert.
I rebuilt a westfield SEiW a while ago that had been crashed. The powder coated chassis was in a bad state & all of the PC came off in sheets. I think I sanded around 5%. The repaint was onto very heavily keyed tube with a dense zinc based galvanizing paint & then two coats of black enamel.Getting to the point , it had a white powder coated chassis , and in numerous places the powder coating had water under it that had rusted the chassis ..by 2000 it need a new rear swinging arm .
regards
robert.
Major problem with PC is repairing it. Whereas paint is a few minutes to sand it & more black enamel.
GreenV8S said:
magpies said:
Looks very neat. Are those silicon elbows going to see manifold vacuum? If so, they'll need some internal support. I faced the same issue on mine. I solved it with an internal spring to stop the hose collapsing under vacuum.magpies said:
spent over an hour trying to make a satisfactory spring but gave up and forced 50mm st st tube into the hose right up to the change in direction at the 90 - so only the small section of actual bend is unsupported.
If there's a problem, it won't be immediately catastrophic. Keep an eye on the hose under vacuum and see whether you're happy with it being stretched like that. If you decide to have another go winding a spring, I suggest you wrap it round a rod/dowel a little smaller than the hose ID. And it doesn't need to be perfect. They aren't expensive to buy if you get fed up with the hassle.
Thant's coming along very nicely Mick. Will you be able to get away without a bonnet bulge?
I think the OD of the spring would be larger than the connecting tubes so it would be very unlikely that one would get sucked out of the silicone. So long as it was a tight fit in the hose anyway. Even then, it would have to find it's way round the bend in the silicone tube. And even it it managed all that, it would still be bigger than the inlet port. That's all just theory though
Keep up the good work
I think the OD of the spring would be larger than the connecting tubes so it would be very unlikely that one would get sucked out of the silicone. So long as it was a tight fit in the hose anyway. Even then, it would have to find it's way round the bend in the silicone tube. And even it it managed all that, it would still be bigger than the inlet port. That's all just theory though
Keep up the good work
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