Overheating woes....still.

Overheating woes....still.

Author
Discussion

HeyAndy

423 posts

251 months

Monday 8th September 2003
quotequote all
Had the same problems with my Wedge. I took the rad out and got it re-cored to a 4 core spec, changed the hoses, flushed out the system. The best thing I've done so far as the car's temp is now a lot healthier.

I'm also going to fit an over ride switch and dump the otter setup as its a waste of time.

Jonzo

Original Poster:

163 posts

262 months

Monday 8th September 2003
quotequote all
RZR...yep the cold pipe from swirl was the problem at first as i think there may have been an air pocket but all pipes are getting hot now, just that the fan is kicking in too late. Anyone else fitted these variable temp switches ?

Paul V

4,489 posts

279 months

Monday 8th September 2003
quotequote all
I had a Kenlowe adjustable one fitted on my S, it was fine for the first few months then started to play up, I ended up going back to the standard otter switch in the end.

Rozza!!!

654 posts

278 months

Monday 8th September 2003
quotequote all
Jonzo said:
Okay, fixed my temp gauge, the wire had got cut somehow between two small resistors near the sender unit. Anyone know what these resistors do?..at present i have used ordinary cable and the gauge seems to be working fine.



As far as I can tell, these resistors are put in to crudely calibrate the gauge. IE if you was to remove the resistors, your gauge would read higher for the same water temperature. It could be worth checking your water temp with a thermometer to compare temperatures with your gauge - (a), to see if the resistors have been put in to calibrate the gauge and to see if they are needed and (b), to see if they have been put there to make it look like the car isnt overheating when actually it is!

Roy.


>> Edited by Rozza!!! on Monday 8th September 15:33

gilesy

78 posts

269 months

Tuesday 9th September 2003
quotequote all
It could be that your fan is working OK and your gauge is wrong, after all you have been having problems with it.

The temp. senders on the Colonge V6 are colour coded as there are several types (resistances) and these are matched to a gauge type. The colours are identified by the insulation between the centre post and the outer case, the one on my S2 is brown. If you have the wrong value fitted then your gauge will not read correctly, the standard Granada sender is green.

As you have resistors fitted in the wiring (!!!) then it looks as if someone has played about with sender/gauge wiring, as mentioned earlier, therefore the gauge may not be giving the correct information and your otter switch is fine after all.

Just a thought.

Cheers
Ian

Jonzo

Original Poster:

163 posts

262 months

Tuesday 9th September 2003
quotequote all
Thanks Gilesy, so if i buy a new sender does it come with all the relevant resistors etc in place, so that i just have to connect the relevant wiring? The two resistors that were 'in-line' in the wire were sage green with a red, yellow and white stripe around them, if that means anything to anyone??...it could explain why the gauge is reading say 10 degrees higher than 90?

ratman

103 posts

251 months

Tuesday 9th September 2003
quotequote all
Jonzo. Don't worry about colouring on the resistor. The stripes are just a code to indicate the actual value of the resistor in ohms and nothing to do with the type of gauge or sender unit.

gilesy

78 posts

269 months

Thursday 11th September 2003
quotequote all
I'm not so sure about those resistors. My car certantly doesn't have them.

Is your gauge a standard TVR one. If not it may be that someone has replaced at sometime, not all gauges read the same temp. for a given resistance (oops, sorry if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs ) and found that they had to recalibrate the sender to get a reading that was about right but not spot on.

I wouldn't dream of telling you how to spend your money and I would feel awful if you did and it didn't work but it's worth investigating.

Cheers
Gilesy

Jonzo

Original Poster:

163 posts

262 months

Thursday 11th September 2003
quotequote all
Gilesy, yes it is the standard TVR gauge (with the logo in middle) and being that the wire with resistors seemed to be in 3 parts i would say soemone has tampered with the sender at some point! So back to original query, should i just go and get a new sender and will that come with relevant wiring/resistors ?
thanks.

Rozza!!!

654 posts

278 months

Friday 12th September 2003
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Jonzo, if your gauge is working then you may not need to change your temp sender. Get the engine up to temperature and then compare the gauge temperature with a thermometer reading, unless they are vastly different I wouldn't bother changing the sender.

Edited to say that taking the caps off when the engine is hot and the coolant is under pressure is not a good thing, so get the engine up to temp with the swirl pot cap off!

Roy.

>> Edited by Rozza!!! on Friday 12th September 10:25

gilesy

78 posts

269 months

Friday 12th September 2003
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I'd do what Rozza says and if it's no good try bypassing those resistors and do it again.

RichardR

2,892 posts

270 months

Friday 12th September 2003
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Jonzo said:
Gilesy, yes it is the standard TVR gauge
I didn't realise that TVR did a standard anything!

Jonzo

Original Poster:

163 posts

262 months

Friday 12th September 2003
quotequote all
Gilesy & Rozza, well yeah the gauge is working but on occasion, seems erratic in that it seems to rise and fall quite dramatically and it didn't do that before said wire with resistors was broken. So ?....
Would an auto-electrician be able to pinpoint any probs at the sender end ?

Paul V

4,489 posts

279 months

Friday 12th September 2003
quotequote all
Wondering if it could be a bad earth, does the gauge move when you turn the lights on? My S had gauge problems until I cleaned the earth behind the N/S front wheel.

Rozza!!!

654 posts

278 months

Friday 12th September 2003
quotequote all
Jonzo said:
Gilesy & Rozza, well yeah the gauge is working but on occasion, seems erratic in that it seems to rise and fall quite dramatically and it didn't do that before said wire with resistors was broken. So ?....
Would an auto-electrician be able to pinpoint any probs at the sender end ?


If the readings are erratic it could be either that your gauge is faulty or you may still have a bad connection in the loom. How have you connected up the wires after removing the resistors?

As far as I know, if a temperature sender goes it goes open circuit and therefore wouldnt work at all. Unless anybody else knows any better!

Roy.