Steering bearing guide
Discussion
s1.5f said:
Am I right in thinking the older nylon version should now by replaced by the roller type? I have read that the only difference fitting it is that you need to drill the bolt holes in bulkhead... If this is true where's the best place to order one from (mail-order) or would my local main dealer (who also deals Skoda!) be able get one from TVR at a fixed price ie I don't want to pay a premium for using a main dealer!
BEWARE!
If you order the same parts as Rozza, then you might find that the older S1 bearing housing version as on mine (and mine is an S1.5) does not align with the new style bolt centers. You have spotted this. But what you don't realise is that if you remove the old bearing housing, which is a squarish steel plate arrangement with 4 bolts one in each corner, then amount of GRP in which you have to drill the new bolt centers in IS MIGHTY SMALL and in IMHO is dangerous to do. I RECOMMEND that if you want to use the new steel bearing and housing then leave the old steel plate ON and drill through that and use longer bulk head bolts. The new housing will need a little pairing back to allow the clutch to depress slightly, since the old housing bolts will lift it about 3/4 mm off the bulk head - but since you are leaving the old nylon bearing in place strength isnt an issue.
Trust me the steering is rock solid after you've done.
All that said its as Rozza has described Hope this reply improves your ego Rozza - great pics btw.
Phew!!!
s1.5f said:
Am I right in thinking the older nylon version should now by replaced by the roller type? I have read that the only difference fitting it is that you need to drill the bolt holes in bulkhead... If this is true where's the best place to order one from (mail-order) or would my local main dealer (who also deals Skoda!) be able get one from TVR at a fixed price ie I don't want to pay a premium for using a main dealer!
BEWARE!
If you order the same parts as Rozza, then you might find that the older S1 bearing housing version as on mine (and mine is an S1.5) does not align with the new style bolt centers. You have spotted this. But what you don't realise is that if you remove the old bearing housing, which is a squarish steel plate arrangement with 4 bolts one in each corner, then amount of GRP in which you have to drill the new bolt centers in IS MIGHTY SMALL and in IMHO is dangerous to do. I RECOMMEND that if you want to use the new steel bearing and housing then leave the old steel plate ON and drill through that and use longer bulk head bolts. The new housing will need a little pairing back to allow the clutch to depress slightly, since the old housing bolts will lift it about 3/4 mm off the bulk head - but since you are leaving the old nylon bearing in place strength isnt an issue.
Trust me the steering is rock solid after you've done.
All that said its as Rozza has described Hope this reply improves your ego Rozza - great pics btw.
Phew!!!
Great work Roy, especially the detailed photos! 
Another tip I've heard is not only to pack the top UJ with copper grease (as you've done) but to then to also cover it with a length of mountain bike inner tube, zip strapped at both ends (the inner tube obviously needs to be put on the column before you reassemble it). This helps to keep all the crap from the front wheel out of the UJ (and the grease!).
Rozza!!! said:Like Le TVR's, the centre bush on mine is also inserted into the bearing the other way. It's kept in place by a 'special washer' which is available from Ford dealers for 25p (originally from a Sierra steering column. This slides up the triangular part of the steering column (not as easy as it sounds) to rest against the bush and keep it from sliding out (in theory). If anyone else has this arrangement and does a replacement, I'd be interested to know if the bush could be reversed to match yours.
If the centre bush is in the other way then in theory it could come out of position (although I agree it probably would never happen due to its tightness in the bearing). I would be interested to see a pic of the arrangement on your car Le TVR.
I guess its another case of TVR couldn't make its mind up which way round some of the bits on the S should go.
Roy.
Another tip I've heard is not only to pack the top UJ with copper grease (as you've done) but to then to also cover it with a length of mountain bike inner tube, zip strapped at both ends (the inner tube obviously needs to be put on the column before you reassemble it). This helps to keep all the crap from the front wheel out of the UJ (and the grease!).
rpage said:I had exactly the same problem - it does bump up the cost of the job somewhat!
Great stuff. Exactly as I remember it. I changed the top UJ at the same time. Sheared both bolts and took two days to drift the UJ off the spline..!!
Yes please,
I like the idea of the photos on the web. Your article Roy was great! I am planning a little experiment with a spherical bearing and home-made GRP flange. In theroy this should work for absolutley any car, tilt wheel, kit car.. etc, and be water proof. Just a matter of changing the bearing to fit the shaft. Also means you can keep the original holes in your bulkhead. The main drawback is the spherical bearings are like £40 delivered, and you can only get stainless with PTFE innards. (moght just be the 0.75" versions) I estimate play in the bearing will be around 0.05mm . I just need to figure out how to cut the holes in the fibreglass sheeting to make the flange up...
-Jim
I like the idea of the photos on the web. Your article Roy was great! I am planning a little experiment with a spherical bearing and home-made GRP flange. In theroy this should work for absolutley any car, tilt wheel, kit car.. etc, and be water proof. Just a matter of changing the bearing to fit the shaft. Also means you can keep the original holes in your bulkhead. The main drawback is the spherical bearings are like £40 delivered, and you can only get stainless with PTFE innards. (moght just be the 0.75" versions) I estimate play in the bearing will be around 0.05mm . I just need to figure out how to cut the holes in the fibreglass sheeting to make the flange up...
-Jim
Hi Rozza,
Thought you might like to look at this PDF from the TR7 club.
www.tr8.com/members062131/TR7TR8OC/Visitor/pdf/SteeringBush.pdf
-Jim
Thought you might like to look at this PDF from the TR7 club.
www.tr8.com/members062131/TR7TR8OC/Visitor/pdf/SteeringBush.pdf
-Jim
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