water pump to swirl pot hose
Discussion
I am just fitting a new water pump to my S2. (I suspect I may be the last person on the planet still using red hermatite on paper gaskets!) but I am having trouble routing a new 16mm hose between the pump and halfway down the swirl pot (hose 31 on the diagram in FAQs). The shaped hose doesn’t seem to be available in rubber or silicone so I am using a straight hose but I can’t get it to bend to a tight enough radius without flattening and I don’t fancy running it through the fan belt. The only other alternative seems to be to use copper elbows and I don’t think that would look good. Has anyone come up with a solution to this? Any advice gratefully received.
Thanks & Best regards
Don
Thanks & Best regards
Don
Sorry I dont know how to do links but this is the diagram.
Other posts on this forum noted that silicon hose kits only supply a straight hose for No 31. So I hadn't considered ACT. Do they now supply a shaped hose for this one? Has anyone had one from them, if so did it fit well?
Edited by lewdon on Monday 21st March 22:26
Sorry, I thought you meant the other hose (5). Yest that one is straight in the ACT kit. I'm fitting remote oil filter with heat exchanger so will be using a preformed 180 hose and then a long 90 back to the pump. I will probably have to get the 90 specially made with the right length tails. However, Sir Phil of Pot from the land of Stainlessdom has used a swept 90 cooper bend for a few years now.
Might take a join or two but can't you make something up with this selection?
Or keep it simple and go through the fan belt, how often do you need to change/replace that?
... and if you do it's a 30 second job to slip the hose of, feed in belt and back on, virtually no coolant loss..... should the belt fail you'll probably overheat and need to top up anyway unless you're alert enough to notice the ignition light come on
I'm also in the middle of this job.
The 'fat' hose from the swirl pot to the thermostat housing (5) is pre-shaped in the ACT kit so no issue with that one.
The smaller pipe (31) from the swirl to the thermostat bypass connection simply follows the same route and so can be tie wrapped at the top of the bend to keep the route. This was the original arrangement and you can see where the ties were (loosely.) ont He top hose in the photo above.
The 'fat' hose from the swirl pot to the thermostat housing (5) is pre-shaped in the ACT kit so no issue with that one.
The smaller pipe (31) from the swirl to the thermostat bypass connection simply follows the same route and so can be tie wrapped at the top of the bend to keep the route. This was the original arrangement and you can see where the ties were (loosely.) ont He top hose in the photo above.
This has been discussed before, I don't know why it's not been mentioned,
for some reason the S2 runs better without this hose.
The engine will warm up faster and maintain temperature better.
Some on here have re routed this and teed in to the return hose, I blanked it off at each end.
The result is that the thermostat acts on a greater proportion of the flow from the water pump and makes a very noticeable difference to the temperature stability in traffic. The thermostat has an 8mm bypass anyway.
No brainer.
for some reason the S2 runs better without this hose.
The engine will warm up faster and maintain temperature better.
Some on here have re routed this and teed in to the return hose, I blanked it off at each end.
The result is that the thermostat acts on a greater proportion of the flow from the water pump and makes a very noticeable difference to the temperature stability in traffic. The thermostat has an 8mm bypass anyway.
No brainer.
Alan461 said:
This has been discussed before, I don't know why it's not been mentioned,
for some reason the S2 runs better without this hose.
The engine will warm up faster and maintain temperature better.
Some on here have re routed this and teed in to the return hose, I blanked it off at each end.
The result is that the thermostat acts on a greater proportion of the flow from the water pump and makes a very noticeable difference to the temperature stability in traffic. The thermostat has an 8mm bypass anyway.
No brainer.
I blanked the swirlpot and tee'd my bypass hose into the bottom hose several years ago and the temp gauge stays exactly in the middle at any speed or outside temperature. I think there is a secondary problem with the original arrangement in that when the thermostat is fully open I suspect there may be reverse flow through the bypass back into the engine causing over heating issues. Only a theory though. Mine runs perfectly and the fan rarely operates.for some reason the S2 runs better without this hose.
The engine will warm up faster and maintain temperature better.
Some on here have re routed this and teed in to the return hose, I blanked it off at each end.
The result is that the thermostat acts on a greater proportion of the flow from the water pump and makes a very noticeable difference to the temperature stability in traffic. The thermostat has an 8mm bypass anyway.
No brainer.
Rob.
RayTVR - have you found the straight silicon pipe supplied with the hose kit flexible enough to follow the original route without flattening. (I am trying with rubber).
Alan461 - Thanks for the tip. But as mine seems to warm up quickly and to be rock solid on temperature whatever the traffic conditions (albeit with the fan cutting in when required) I am reluctant to change the layout. on the basis of it aint bust dont fix it.
Philpott - Your logic of going through the fanbelt is impeccable and will be my fall back option.
Thank you all for all the input
Alan461 - Thanks for the tip. But as mine seems to warm up quickly and to be rock solid on temperature whatever the traffic conditions (albeit with the fan cutting in when required) I am reluctant to change the layout. on the basis of it aint bust dont fix it.
Philpott - Your logic of going through the fanbelt is impeccable and will be my fall back option.
Thank you all for all the input
lewdon said:
RayTVR - have you found the straight silicon pipe supplied with the hose kit flexible enough to follow the original route without flattening. (I am trying with rubber).
I'm fitting new silicone hoses, and there doesn't seem to be a problem, the bend radius isn't particularly tight so the straight hose just takes up a natural curve.Here's a photo of the original hoses - does it kink at the bottom near the swirl pot connection?
It would appear that the silicon hose must be more flexible than rubber and therefore follows the original route without kinking at the swirl pot. I may fit one next winter.
(I also decided not to do away with the hose entirely, or to re-route it to the bottom hose, as my cooling system seems to work fine as it is).
However as time is running out for the car to come off SORN on the first of April, and after messing around with copper pipe and elbows etc which just did not look right, I have now run the rubber hose through the fanbelt as you advised. a simple and elegant solution. Thank you Gentlemen your excellent advice is, as always, very much appreciated.
(I also decided not to do away with the hose entirely, or to re-route it to the bottom hose, as my cooling system seems to work fine as it is).
However as time is running out for the car to come off SORN on the first of April, and after messing around with copper pipe and elbows etc which just did not look right, I have now run the rubber hose through the fanbelt as you advised. a simple and elegant solution. Thank you Gentlemen your excellent advice is, as always, very much appreciated.
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