Sump & engine mount replacement

[anonymous-user]

With invaluable help from Steve J, we traced a small oil leak that appears to come from the bottom of the sump. This has been caused by the sump sitting on top of the anti-roll bar.

Can anybody answer the following questions;

How easy is it to remove the sump?
Can the sump be patched up in situ (what metal is the sump made from) or does it mean a new one?
Can the engine be jacked up from underneath to replace the engine mounts?

I am asuming that the engine mounts have either compressed over the years or they have been replaced with the wrong size. This is on a 1991 S3C, so does anybody know the part number for the correct size?

And finally, is there anything else I should be aware of when tackling this job?

Many thanks,
Lee

[clive f]

I think you can remove the sump if you remove the roll bar first, best check in the bible.
you cannot weld onto the sump unless it is removed and thoroughly cleaned out first.
Is it also possible to fit some packers underneath the roll bar mounts to give a little more clearance from the sump?

Edited by clive f on Tuesday 29th August 12:09

[anonymous-user]

Hi Clive,

Wouldn't putting packers underneath the mounts actually push the roll bar up into the sump?

Lee

[clive f]

your right, getting confused with my griff one which I played with recently, the s is supported ontop of the chassis instead of underneath, sorry.

[F908 Tim]

It is certainly possible to remove the sump in situ once the mountings are undone together with the exhaust,waterhoses to swirlpot,roll bar and perhaps the starter(can't remember) but not sure about replacement mounts.See the 'S' parts list and have a word with Tvrcarparts?
Suggest new sump from breakers is better than trying a repair.

[steve j]

Having seen Lee`s car and looked at the alternative parts list, this is indeed a tricky one. Apparently the S2 and S3 have different mountings, the S2 mount is shorter than the S3 but according to the parts list the mounts may be off of a Transit????? We need a expert on this and TVR Carparts may help, it is possible that Lee`s car has S2 mounts on instead of S3 as the existing mounts look pretty good. So has anyone lifted the engine high enough without the use of a hoist to change the mounts? Any thoughts lads, poor ole Lee is in need of some advice, please help

[Mr Plow]

I had the same problem, so took the engine out to replace the sump. Mine had already been welded by the previous owner. Got a whole engine from a scrappy for £40. Not sure if the sump will come off with the engine in, you need a fair amount of clearance to get the sump past the oil strainer in side ? Could have a look later if needed.

TVR car parts can supply the mountings, about £50 for the pair I think.

Be careful though, my plan was to take the engine out, replace the sump and clutch, I am now a year into a full body off rebuild !!

[F908 Tim]

Just a thought, but, wouldn't it be possible to lift the engine on a hoist,
remove the sump and replace(think it is possible even with oil pickup filter in place...don't quote me)and before lowering it down again,slip some more rubber sheet with a hole cut out of the centre (to accommodate the centre bolt) over the top of the existing mounting hence making it thicker and the engine a fraction higher?
A big washer or plate over the top of the new rubber would stop ware.

(Thinking here without the benefit of looking at the engine in situ.)

Seem to remember when my engine was out that locatng the mountings again was easy and there was a lot of adjustment possible to accommodate thicker mounts.

Frankly, with both jobs to do,I would take the whole lump out and do both with space rather than try to do the sump in situ.It is quick enough to zip around the bell housing and remove the ancillaries.

[Rockey]

Just removed my engine from the chassis (S3) and the rubber mounts are 2" thick and both sides have been packed with around 1/8th of plate at some time or other, presumably after a while the rubber softens and drops.
If you decide to lift the engine out make sure you get someone to hold the prop on for you to stop all the oil running out (Ooops)

Edited by Rockey on Wednesday 30th August 17:04

[clarenceboddiger]

See thread below
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=11&t=273889

I bought the EM670 their dimensions are
Rubber Diameter 75mm
rubber thickness 38mm
Stud length 20mm (Handy that as it can be cut down if your stuck for room)
Outside thread diameter 10mm (or imperial equivalent)
they were only £8ea delivered within 2 days
hope that helps a bit.
Just noticed a comment about someones being packed out??, if you go on their site they show thicker ones EM1534 for the 2000 Capri I’m sure they would give you dimension if you rang them on . 01633 263400 or 256067

[anonymous-user]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the information.

It looks like a job that will have to be spread out over several weekends during the winter months. I can also see the phrase 'as I've got this out, I might as well replace it' cropping up.

Many thanks.

[anonymous-user]

Is the sump made of aluminium? If so, I've had a price from the local scrappy....sorry, Independant Car Dismantlers, of £50. Is he 'aving a larf?

[clarenceboddiger]

You have to take it off regardless, why not just weld a plate over the holed area,this would give protection in that area to stop it happening again.I dont think the sump is ali,and at that price I'd be wanting titanium.

[dickkark]

I just used mk1 transit perkins diesel ones in the v8 capri,the off side rocker box sit`s about half an inch from the servo,steering column runs next to the offside wastegate acutator equally close.
even outright abuse has not made them meet once.(polished cover,would mark instantly)
I think they were less than a fiver each from partco ,just looked through the book and picked them out,they have a long 1-3/4" stud either end which is good for adjustment with big washers.
they are good insulators of vibration and so far unbreakable,if the engine is still in the car and you use these if you dont have slot`s just holes to fit them into be prepared for some serious grunting and swearing as new ones are usually bigger and far less pliant than the soggy old ones which usually only just come out... good luck.

[jagman2]

Hello All,

The bolts on the back of the sump (between bellhousing and sump) are, as I experienced impossible to remove without the gearbox and bellhousing removed from the engine. Spanners nor thin wall sockets will fit between bellhouse and sump.
(I'm working on the 2.9 EFI)

Removing sump "in situ" is according to me not possible...

Good luck and hope this reassuring news helps :-)

Cheers

Olav Bergman
The Netherlands