Discussion
The Hatter said:
The Seats are MG Montego/Maestro and are wider than the normal TVR fit; the narrower centre spine of the SEACs makes this possible.
Aye, looking again it's obvious your seats are wider than the norm, so yours have unmodified runners. Most of BL/Jaguar's seats were made by Callow & Maddox Bros (Cambro) in Coventry; I used to pass their factory visiting clients but not sure if they're still going now.TVRleigh_BBWR said:
The Hatter said:
The accelerator cable was about the only thing that came out easily... but predicably enough it's frayed at the pedal end and the nut where it passes through the bulkhead was almost cut through by the cable running over it - that's why it came out easily. I'm hoping new cables are available; anyone know where from or even if it's off another vehicle (SD1?).
Martin.
For the racer I bought a kit of ebay, came with a long length of cable inner and outer sheaf and every end you can think off.Martin.
That way you can make it how you want it, not make what you have fit.
I think it was this one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Universal-Throttle-Cable-Kit...
Speedy Cables
They also offer gauge repairs amongst other things.
Great project, great read.
Chris.
I've tried Adam's idea of running some solder into the cable to stop the fraying; it appears to have worked but it remains to be seen how durable it'll be. I'll get a better idea when I re-assemble the pedal box... if it doesn't look good then speedy-cables it may be.
Handbrake's cleaned up and working cleanly
I had to cut through the nut and angled spacer to get it off the car, now I can't find a replacement nut; it's 16tpi and standard conduit fittings are now 18tpi - bugger. I may have to try and put a blob of weld on it and file it smooth; the danger being it'll muck up the thread.
It's a masterpiece of stamping/fabrication, it looks too good for TVR production volumes so I guess it's sourced from another vehicle, no idea what though.
It acts on a lever mechanism inside the transmission tunnel before it goes though to the calipers at the back so I need to clean up that mechanism too.
There's two cables, one of which runs over the RH rocker cover and close to the exhaust so I suspect that's full of cooked grease - another reason for the thing to be ineffective! Hopefully when it's all cleaned up it'll work well; I'll need it at BBWF to stop it rolling off the trailer and hitting something...
Handbrake's cleaned up and working cleanly
I had to cut through the nut and angled spacer to get it off the car, now I can't find a replacement nut; it's 16tpi and standard conduit fittings are now 18tpi - bugger. I may have to try and put a blob of weld on it and file it smooth; the danger being it'll muck up the thread.
It's a masterpiece of stamping/fabrication, it looks too good for TVR production volumes so I guess it's sourced from another vehicle, no idea what though.
It acts on a lever mechanism inside the transmission tunnel before it goes though to the calipers at the back so I need to clean up that mechanism too.
There's two cables, one of which runs over the RH rocker cover and close to the exhaust so I suspect that's full of cooked grease - another reason for the thing to be ineffective! Hopefully when it's all cleaned up it'll work well; I'll need it at BBWF to stop it rolling off the trailer and hitting something...
I vaguely remember that when I were a lad my dad had a couple of cars with umbrella handbrakes (some had column gearshift as well 
) but for the life of me I can't recall what they were... he had an old (finned) Zodiac; an 'aircraft carrier' Zephyr, Mercedes 300 Adenauer, Rover 12, Austion Maxi, Vauxhall Viva/Velox/Cresta, Escort vans... and then there were the works vans and his customers' cars, so almost anything on the road!
) but for the life of me I can't recall what they were... he had an old (finned) Zodiac; an 'aircraft carrier' Zephyr, Mercedes 300 Adenauer, Rover 12, Austion Maxi, Vauxhall Viva/Velox/Cresta, Escort vans... and then there were the works vans and his customers' cars, so almost anything on the road!The Bedford CA van had a 3-speed column change and an umbrella handle type handbrake.
I used to drive one around London and all over the country when I was 18...sometimes towing a caravan too.
Great in summer with both doors slid back. Not much health and safety then.
.
I used to drive one around London and all over the country when I was 18...sometimes towing a caravan too.
Great in summer with both doors slid back. Not much health and safety then.
.
Edited by grahamw48 on Thursday 9th June 10:28
Transmitter Man said:
Steve,
I had mine moved to the left hand side of the cockpit, a less tortuous routing, a new cable and it's as sweet as a nut.
I could not even find the damn lever when I first purchased the car without becoming Houdini.
Phil
420 SEAC
Glad you've sorted it,never trusted mine,always left it in gear just incase.I had mine moved to the left hand side of the cockpit, a less tortuous routing, a new cable and it's as sweet as a nut.
I could not even find the damn lever when I first purchased the car without becoming Houdini.
Phil
420 SEAC
Wedg1e said:
I vaguely remember that when I were a lad my dad had a couple of cars with umbrella handbrakes (some had column gearshift as well ) but for the life of me I can't recall what they were... he had an old (finned) Zodiac; an 'aircraft carrier' Zephyr, Mercedes 300 Adenauer, Rover 12, Austion Maxi, Vauxhall Viva/Velox/Cresta, Escort vans... and then there were the works vans and his customers' cars, so almost anything on the road!
Remember driving a Toyota Hiace down the M1 it had column shift,first time i ever drove one. Struggled for ages to get it in 5th on my last attempt at ramming it in i pulled the gear lever clean off.) but for the life of me I can't recall what they were... he had an old (finned) Zodiac; an 'aircraft carrier' Zephyr, Mercedes 300 Adenauer, Rover 12, Austion Maxi, Vauxhall Viva/Velox/Cresta, Escort vans... and then there were the works vans and his customers' cars, so almost anything on the road!Rob
carob said:
Remember driving a Toyota Hiace down the M1 it had column shift,first time i ever drove one. Struggled for ages to get it in 5th on my last attempt at ramming it in i pulled the gear lever clean off.
Rob
Fab things, drove one of them.....1 ton payload but had 2 ton of wet sand on the back.....didn't half wander down the road! Scraping its rear mudflaps on the tarmac too!Rob
Tony
The Hatter said:
Yes, I meant roll bar not roll cage; I know some cars have them so I'll do the rounds for research at BBWF!
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=8&t=1014858&i=20&mid=&nmt=JR said:
There just isn't enough room in a TVR to do the job properly, unless you are very short. IIRC the RAC recommendation was for 6" clearance above your helmet. Most of the hoops shown don't even have the clearance above the head. You need this clearance because in an accident things will stretch and distort a lot.
are you going to race?
Are you going to use 4 / 6 point harnesses and a helmet?
a cage has to be built to a spec and generic minimum design then certified. This is a lot diferent to putting some tubes in a road car that won't save your life in a crash and may well end it prematurely.
Andy robinson is one of many good fabricators out there who can install a custom made cage for you but a cage should always be used in conjunction with the other 2 items. You need to be very specific with what you mean by "intrusive"I dont see why you would hate posts like this??
the whole point of the post is to discuss options, the fact that i stated rollcage should tell you i'm not after the usual bar that may not stand up in a roll as the screen could collapse,
i will want to track the car but probably not full on race as it is a road car
and will use a 4 point harness,
the comment on intrusiveness was aimed at still being able to get in and out of the car without being hudiniWhat I mean is that a road car with a cage installed and driven by a bloke without a lid is more likely to kill its occupant in a crash than a car without a cage. cages are a system designed to work with a driver that cannot move about and also a driver with a lid protecting his head from damage. if you are building a compromise car which is part road and part competition then fair enough which is what I meant by being desctiptive of "intrusive" A cage built to look neat in a road car may not actually be very good at what a cage is supposed to be installed for in a race car.
How many road cars have you rolled?
As an alternative thought how many times have you been involved in a rear end shunt minor bump etc but remained in the upright position. Its all well and good building the compromise car for the odd track day but if you drive said car on road more than you track it then you should be considering whether you are putting yourself at greater risk due to the imbalance in frequency of track / road driving?All fair comments! a friend of mine sustained some brain damage after a track day, driving home the steering went and he came off the motorway and rolled down a bank the hit a tree he was obviously not wareing a helmet on the way home, it was in a caterham with a full cage and harness.
the cage undoubtedly saved his life but could also have killed him in the process.
where i am coming from is something to stop total collapse if the worst should happen but not kill you in a normal accident senario. if that makes scence?My recommendation is not to fit one.
If you are tracking your car you are essentially driving alone on a track and passing people in a safe controlled manner. All your cage is going to do in your road car is make you slower because they are heavy.
A cage in a chim or griff which retains the roof will certainly be very close to your head. a door bar will be very low to allow you access which also means it will have diminished purpose. top rails built to remain in a roof will skim your tempral lobe. you will find that any decent fabricator will refuse to make what you want. because what you want will not save your life in a crash
My view is that you have a road or a race car but not both.
A road car with compromised race bits is possibly dangerous.
A road car with a fully trimmed cage built into the structure would be prohibitavely expensive
at the end of the day it is your car and you are free to do what you want but in my opinion a compromise cage in a compromise car will only do both things worse than going one way or another.
I know Andy Race has a road registered race griff so he would be your first call to look at what he has done. i am pretty sure he will have a similar opinion to mine though that the use of the car is foremost.
A good friend of mine had to examine a TVR to assist the police after a survivable rear end shunt cause the death of the Drivers daughter who was a passenger at the time of the accident. The cause was the daughters head being thrown back into the cage.
This is why I have such strong opinion on race cages and road cars which become neither one thing or another.
heightswitch said:
slideways said:
heightswitch said:
slideways said:
heightswitch said:
slideways said:
[
regards andy(APM)Thanks Andy i will take a look.
I hate posts like this one.APMAUTO said:
slideways said:
I would like to look at getting a full rollcage for the Chimaera, the sort of thing that Cerberas have but one that is not too intrusive in the cabin. i have done a search and and found a couple but to be honest they look a bit unwealdy.
so has any one done any reasearch into this subject?
Pictures would be great if you have them.
try speaking to andy robinson at www.robinson-race-cars.co.uk one of the best fabricators in the uk did our cage in the gt cup cerbera and also made suspension parts we needed,heavily into drag racing so you wont find safer or better!so has any one done any reasearch into this subject?
Pictures would be great if you have them.
regards andy(APM)
are you going to race?
Are you going to use 4 / 6 point harnesses and a helmet?
a cage has to be built to a spec and generic minimum design then certified. This is a lot diferent to putting some tubes in a road car that won't save your life in a crash and may well end it prematurely.
Andy robinson is one of many good fabricators out there who can install a custom made cage for you but a cage should always be used in conjunction with the other 2 items. You need to be very specific with what you mean by "intrusive"
the whole point of the post is to discuss options, the fact that i stated rollcage should tell you i'm not after the usual bar that may not stand up in a roll as the screen could collapse,
i will want to track the car but probably not full on race as it is a road car
and will use a 4 point harness,
the comment on intrusiveness was aimed at still being able to get in and out of the car without being hudini
How many road cars have you rolled?
As an alternative thought how many times have you been involved in a rear end shunt minor bump etc but remained in the upright position. Its all well and good building the compromise car for the odd track day but if you drive said car on road more than you track it then you should be considering whether you are putting yourself at greater risk due to the imbalance in frequency of track / road driving?
the cage undoubtedly saved his life but could also have killed him in the process.
where i am coming from is something to stop total collapse if the worst should happen but not kill you in a normal accident senario. if that makes scence?
If you are tracking your car you are essentially driving alone on a track and passing people in a safe controlled manner. All your cage is going to do in your road car is make you slower because they are heavy.
A cage in a chim or griff which retains the roof will certainly be very close to your head. a door bar will be very low to allow you access which also means it will have diminished purpose. top rails built to remain in a roof will skim your tempral lobe. you will find that any decent fabricator will refuse to make what you want. because what you want will not save your life in a crash
My view is that you have a road or a race car but not both.
A road car with compromised race bits is possibly dangerous.
A road car with a fully trimmed cage built into the structure would be prohibitavely expensive
at the end of the day it is your car and you are free to do what you want but in my opinion a compromise cage in a compromise car will only do both things worse than going one way or another.
I know Andy Race has a road registered race griff so he would be your first call to look at what he has done. i am pretty sure he will have a similar opinion to mine though that the use of the car is foremost.
A good friend of mine had to examine a TVR to assist the police after a survivable rear end shunt cause the death of the Drivers daughter who was a passenger at the time of the accident. The cause was the daughters head being thrown back into the cage.
This is why I have such strong opinion on race cages and road cars which become neither one thing or another.
Strong feelings about roll bars - I'm very conscious of safety so I'll consider my options carefully.
The handbrake is now back in and functioning, my drive's flat so I can't get a feel for how good it is yet. The steering column's back in too so it can be manouvered at BBWF. Interesting to see the Jag handbrake pics; it's definitely based on that but has a TVR mod to eliminate the Jag part that holds the outer cable, that probably explains it's ineffectiveness as on my car the cable outer is free to float around. It sits at a strange angle too so the driver can't get a decent pull on it, I may have to re-visit it...
It's got a hood on it too now (thanks Phil!), but it pi**ed down with rain today so I couldn't get any decent pics. Very nerve-wracking drilling the hood clamp bar that holds it to the rear deck but it's worked out OK with the holes in the right place, the tension on the hood seems OK.
Getting there with the wiring; it's very confusing as the wiring codes don't correspond with the bible and there's multi-block connections with one colour wire on one side connecting to a different colour on the other! One problem is that the centre console wires have been ripped out at some point presumably in an attempt to steal the car; plus there's loads of unused wires and others that relate to the alarms. I suspect this'll take several iterations once it's back on the car.
The switches are in a sorry state too and need replacing.
The handbrake is now back in and functioning, my drive's flat so I can't get a feel for how good it is yet. The steering column's back in too so it can be manouvered at BBWF. Interesting to see the Jag handbrake pics; it's definitely based on that but has a TVR mod to eliminate the Jag part that holds the outer cable, that probably explains it's ineffectiveness as on my car the cable outer is free to float around. It sits at a strange angle too so the driver can't get a decent pull on it, I may have to re-visit it...
It's got a hood on it too now (thanks Phil!), but it pi**ed down with rain today so I couldn't get any decent pics. Very nerve-wracking drilling the hood clamp bar that holds it to the rear deck but it's worked out OK with the holes in the right place, the tension on the hood seems OK.
Getting there with the wiring; it's very confusing as the wiring codes don't correspond with the bible and there's multi-block connections with one colour wire on one side connecting to a different colour on the other! One problem is that the centre console wires have been ripped out at some point presumably in an attempt to steal the car; plus there's loads of unused wires and others that relate to the alarms. I suspect this'll take several iterations once it's back on the car.
The switches are in a sorry state too and need replacing.
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