Another body off!
Discussion
It's triangulated back down the original suspension tower by around 2" rather than hanging off the top tube only which as you say is pretty weak as only 1.6mm thick - although you can't see it from the above pic due the the angle.
Will have to keep an eye on it once she is back on the road.
Will have to keep an eye on it once she is back on the road.
Edited by B@man on Thursday 7th May 21:18
More progress, slow progress but progress all the same.
The made to order mintex rear pads eventually arrived and dropped in with a set of new pins.
Front hubs have been stripped, bearing repacked and refitted, almost ready for the wheels !!
Track rod ends fitted and all castellated nuts fitted with split pins (previously a novelty that I can't belive was missed on at least 3 MOT's !)
That will be all for a week or as I'm moving house !
The made to order mintex rear pads eventually arrived and dropped in with a set of new pins.
Front hubs have been stripped, bearing repacked and refitted, almost ready for the wheels !!
Track rod ends fitted and all castellated nuts fitted with split pins (previously a novelty that I can't belive was missed on at least 3 MOT's !)
That will be all for a week or as I'm moving house !
Some new 'top hat' hub-centric spacers knocked up by the machine shop at work, arrived on my desk this week
Time to chuck a couple of the wheels that have been sat in the back of lock up on, a bit of cleaning up needed on the centre bores but the fit is good.
Rear hubs both painted, problematic wheel bearing replaced with liberal bearing retainer and yes it still has play in one axis... I'm beginning to suspect the stub axle, I'm going to try the other drive shaft before I give up and accept it's always going to have some play in it (To recap, that's now three wheel bearings and two different hub housings that have play only in the vertical axis) Anyway bearings packed with plenty of grease and housings painted ready to go back on.
Time to chuck a couple of the wheels that have been sat in the back of lock up on, a bit of cleaning up needed on the centre bores but the fit is good.
Rear hubs both painted, problematic wheel bearing replaced with liberal bearing retainer and yes it still has play in one axis... I'm beginning to suspect the stub axle, I'm going to try the other drive shaft before I give up and accept it's always going to have some play in it (To recap, that's now three wheel bearings and two different hub housings that have play only in the vertical axis) Anyway bearings packed with plenty of grease and housings painted ready to go back on.
Hi Ian,
With a pair of internal calipers I couldn't see anything, however I will get the spare hub measured on the CMM at work as I really do want to get to the bottom of this once and for all. For now though it's a case of keep going....
16 May 2014 :
28 May 2015 :
Not quite ready for the big lift, the shell has a couple of holes underneath caused by the 2003 "off" and I have the exhaust to modify while access is easier.
With a pair of internal calipers I couldn't see anything, however I will get the spare hub measured on the CMM at work as I really do want to get to the bottom of this once and for all. For now though it's a case of keep going....
16 May 2014 :
28 May 2015 :
Not quite ready for the big lift, the shell has a couple of holes underneath caused by the 2003 "off" and I have the exhaust to modify while access is easier.
As mentioned above the next task was to do something about this hole in the inner sill, based on the position and the damage in the area it was part of the 2003 incident that resulted in the car being a Cat D, I suspect that the position of the chassis made repair impossible at the time.
As is the norm the damage was much worse than expected, the seatbelt /door lock /hood support bar was badly bent causing a 1/2" gap between the striker plate return edge and the shell, clearly the muppets who "repaired" the car knew this as they had shortened the bar that runs across the parcel shelf to make it all fit, oh yes and they seem to have had a good time with the drill getting the door to latch correctly.
Having removed the bent/bastardised bits the floor is in pretty poor state.
3 layers of 450gm matting plus plenty of resin later
I also cut the seat belt bar in half, re-welded straight (it was twisted about 15 degrees) added some extra bracing and made a new "foot"
Laying up the GRP underneath was interesting, with resin running down my arm I settled for a single layer of mat and a layer of surface tissue.
However, this recent work has take it's toll on the interior
As a fill in job while the resin set I've fitted one of the cars new toys
As is the norm the damage was much worse than expected, the seatbelt /door lock /hood support bar was badly bent causing a 1/2" gap between the striker plate return edge and the shell, clearly the muppets who "repaired" the car knew this as they had shortened the bar that runs across the parcel shelf to make it all fit, oh yes and they seem to have had a good time with the drill getting the door to latch correctly.
Having removed the bent/bastardised bits the floor is in pretty poor state.
3 layers of 450gm matting plus plenty of resin later
I also cut the seat belt bar in half, re-welded straight (it was twisted about 15 degrees) added some extra bracing and made a new "foot"
Laying up the GRP underneath was interesting, with resin running down my arm I settled for a single layer of mat and a layer of surface tissue.
However, this recent work has take it's toll on the interior
As a fill in job while the resin set I've fitted one of the cars new toys
And onto the exhaust...
A big box of bits arrived from www.304stainlessexhaustparts.com, custom made 2.5" to 2x 2" Y piece to my specifications four 2" bends, a 2.5" flange (oh err..) and a couple of rather nice 3" tailpipes, plus a roll of 308 mig wire form fleabay..
After a bit of cutting, quite a lot of welding (first go at stainless
went reasonably well)
Y Piece attached to the original "silencer" via the flange, chassis cleanance is much like the rest of the system and measured with my new special tool..
Hmm could stick the tailpipes on and go for Elise look, maybe not, the rest will have to wait until the body is on....
A big box of bits arrived from www.304stainlessexhaustparts.com, custom made 2.5" to 2x 2" Y piece to my specifications four 2" bends, a 2.5" flange (oh err..) and a couple of rather nice 3" tailpipes, plus a roll of 308 mig wire form fleabay..
After a bit of cutting, quite a lot of welding (first go at stainless
went reasonably well)
Y Piece attached to the original "silencer" via the flange, chassis cleanance is much like the rest of the system and measured with my new special tool..
Hmm could stick the tailpipes on and go for Elise look, maybe not, the rest will have to wait until the body is on....
Step by Step - Body Back on !
Step 1 : Assemble 12 petrolheads (creating Chaos in the street is a bonus)
Step 2 : "pit Box" marked on the drive to show where the chassis will end up, body pushed into the same box, in theory body will need to be lifted, dolly pulled out and chassis (with some 4" blocks attached) wheeled under, body put down.
"Test" lift didn't go well and we had to move a few people around to get a better balance of biceps on each side.
Step 3 : UP !- Dolly out - no going back
Step 4 : Arghh up a bit more - Chassis rolled under
Step 5 : Down onto the blocks
Step 6 : Blocks out at the front and the inner wing bolts dropped in to stop the shell moving
Step 7 : Blocks out at the rear and OMG the two holes we transferred from the old mounting plate to the jig to the new mounting plate line up perfectly !
Step 8 : Bug it back in the garage and head to the pub !
Step 1 : Assemble 12 petrolheads (creating Chaos in the street is a bonus)
Step 2 : "pit Box" marked on the drive to show where the chassis will end up, body pushed into the same box, in theory body will need to be lifted, dolly pulled out and chassis (with some 4" blocks attached) wheeled under, body put down.
"Test" lift didn't go well and we had to move a few people around to get a better balance of biceps on each side.
Step 3 : UP !- Dolly out - no going back
Step 4 : Arghh up a bit more - Chassis rolled under
Step 5 : Down onto the blocks
Step 6 : Blocks out at the front and the inner wing bolts dropped in to stop the shell moving
Step 7 : Blocks out at the rear and OMG the two holes we transferred from the old mounting plate to the jig to the new mounting plate line up perfectly !
Step 8 : Bug it back in the garage and head to the pub !
Hopefully assuming I've not screwed up with the youtube upload this should be a video
Got all of the bolts fitted today, well almost the thread was damaged on the last one so it needs a tickle with the grinder. Jacked up the boot section and packed as appropriate to set the door gap which is now better than it was before I took it apart !
For anyone contemplating any body off action the following is a list of the bolts sizes (400SE)
Front Chassis rail 2x M10x70* (A2 Hex Set Screws + repair washer)
Inner Wing 2x M6x50 (A2 Button Head + repair washer)
Front Outrigger 2x M10x40* (A2 Button Head Set Screws + repair washers)
Front Tunnel 2x M10x40 (A2 Button Head Set Screws + repair washers)
Seatbelt Outer 2x M10x60 (HT 8.8 ZP)
Rear Outrigger 2x M10x40 (HT 8.8 ZP)
Boot Floor 2x M10x70* (A2 Hex Set Screw + repair washers)
Got all of the bolts fitted today, well almost the thread was damaged on the last one so it needs a tickle with the grinder. Jacked up the boot section and packed as appropriate to set the door gap which is now better than it was before I took it apart !
For anyone contemplating any body off action the following is a list of the bolts sizes (400SE)
Front Chassis rail 2x M10x70* (A2 Hex Set Screws + repair washer)
Inner Wing 2x M6x50 (A2 Button Head + repair washer)
Front Outrigger 2x M10x40* (A2 Button Head Set Screws + repair washers)
Front Tunnel 2x M10x40 (A2 Button Head Set Screws + repair washers)
Seatbelt Outer 2x M10x60 (HT 8.8 ZP)
Rear Outrigger 2x M10x40 (HT 8.8 ZP)
Boot Floor 2x M10x70* (A2 Hex Set Screw + repair washers)
- = Required trimming - depending on how many layers of rubber between the shell and chassis
350zwelgje said:
Are both lines connected directly to each individual front brake/caliper on your wedge?
Rob
Hi Rob,Rob
Yes both front calipers are fed direct from the master cyl, I just replumbed it how it was but with a bit more care.
Having a T further down the line shouldn't make much difference, this style of master just has the T built in !
I think my master cylinder has survived, but I did plug the outlets to keep the brake fluid in. Got the brakes bled tonight and considering all of the pipework is new cupronickel which from experience is a t
t to bleed as air bubbles stick to the inside of the pipe
pipe. That eazy bleed was £20 well spent!
Yeah half the weight of the car must be in the body, my dad was somewhat apprehensive of the method but it worked well once the muscle had been distributed evenly (ish).
t to bleed as air bubbles stick to the inside of the pipepipe. That eazy bleed was £20 well spent!
Yeah half the weight of the car must be in the body, my dad was somewhat apprehensive of the method but it worked well once the muscle had been distributed evenly (ish).
Edited by B@man on Wednesday 17th June 07:59
Postman (& credit card) taking a bashing now, this lot arrived over the course of the week
Radiator ready to go back in, I'm routing the oil lines around the offside of the rad rather than half way around the car.
PAS pump reservoir is now where the oil stat was so the stat is going somewhere here...
Radiator ready to go back in, I'm routing the oil lines around the offside of the rad rather than half way around the car.
PAS pump reservoir is now where the oil stat was so the stat is going somewhere here...
Hi Cambelt,
The oil cooler fittings are available from Think Automotive and Merlin Motorsport, I used Merlin as they it came out a bit cheaper, although some of their pictures are not quite right so having the Think Auto catalogue open for cross reference is handy.
The Hose is 5/8" ID and the Cooler threads are 5/8 BSP
The oil cooler fittings are available from Think Automotive and Merlin Motorsport, I used Merlin as they it came out a bit cheaper, although some of their pictures are not quite right so having the Think Auto catalogue open for cross reference is handy.
The Hose is 5/8" ID and the Cooler threads are 5/8 BSP
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