400se restoration part 2
Discussion
more work done today just got to remove the old loom tape and replace it during the week also fit the new slave cylinder .got to take the new clutch release arm into work to weld a plate on the back to beef it up as the original one the push rod had made a hole in it i now this is a weak point better safe than sorry also got my son to put the gearbox back in for me


Edited by barrington on Sunday 22 January 20:03
blaineuk said:
It is easier to put engine and gearbox in together.
You think so? I didn't have any probems putting the 'box in first, apart from the usual jiggle to get the input shaft to line up with the clutch and crank. Less weight to move, and less risk of anything swinging wildly and clouting the bodywork too, I'd have said.Engine & Box together no problem other than making sure you have good clearance by raising the the rear end of the car and dropping it in without manifolds. I dropped mine in on my own having my engine crane under the front n/s wheel so I could push the engine in. A trolley jack supporting the engine is also a must whilst getting the mounts bolted on....
im fitting the engine on its own as i dont have a hoist but do have a bigger beam in the roof of the garage and block and tackle i have fitted them both ways but find it easy this way the silver on the chassis is heat sheild got to have some bling cheers dave
Edited by barrington on Monday 23 January 20:07
barrington said:
I have welded a plate on like you did, but also metal strips to each side as well, just to be safe and avoid potential bending of the fork. After replacing the clutch it felt a lot lighter then before, even when I expected it to be heavier as the clutch is a bit upgraded/good quality. So perhaps welding the sides wasn't needed, but now I can sleep at night.And used a metal clutch release bearing, not the plastic stuff. It then needs the metal sleeve/slider if you want to use it, but had a couple lying around from old boxes.
Rob
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