Questions about OZ split-rim nuts(and Bolts)
Discussion
The 16x9 OZ racings I bought do have brand new rims after polishing.
The 30 nuts and bolts per wheel are not in a good condition.
My question is: Can I remove these little bolts one at the time , clean them , and put them back ? What torque ?
Or, can I buy new ones in a package of 4x30=120 ?
Are they titanium or steel ?
Or is it better to give it to an expert ?
thanks in advance
William
The 30 nuts and bolts per wheel are not in a good condition.
My question is: Can I remove these little bolts one at the time , clean them , and put them back ? What torque ?
Or, can I buy new ones in a package of 4x30=120 ?
Are they titanium or steel ?
Or is it better to give it to an expert ?
thanks in advance
William
Hans Daallhuisen was doing titanium replcements at one point if memory serves? Don't know if he is still doing it. Try looking at the News tab on the Wedgepages website and then have a look at News Archive '02 - about half way down you will find some lovely pictures and some contact details.
You never know what you might find on my site if you have a poke around
I would suspect that they are torqued up to a certain setting and in a particular order(?) and the split rims sealed with something other than mastic!
Try prising some infomation out of one of the refurbishing companies that have done OZ wheels in the past - renowheel etc to see what they say.
MikeB
You never know what you might find on my site if you have a poke around
I would suspect that they are torqued up to a certain setting and in a particular order(?) and the split rims sealed with something other than mastic!
Try prising some infomation out of one of the refurbishing companies that have done OZ wheels in the past - renowheel etc to see what they say.
MikeB
cantus said:
My question is: Can I remove these little bolts one at the time , clean them , and put them back ?
thanks in advance
William
I believe that's the way Hans D. did it, but as I'm sure you know, the bolts are not a conventional head pattern. You need two tools, as the bolt heads are a different size to the nuts. Speak to Hans.
7.
I got mine from Hans for the OZ's for the Griff (refurbed about 18 months ago). There was an option of titanium or stainless, but there was only 10 or 15p per bolt and nut in it. Total was just over £200 for all 120 bolts. You'll probably find when you remove them they are pretty bad inside the wheel - mine were and so were others who've had the job done.
You need a special tool to seperate the wheel and they are apparently like rocking horse sh1t - not sure how true this is.
FFG
You need a special tool to seperate the wheel and they are apparently like rocking horse sh1t - not sure how true this is.
FFG
FlipFlopGriff said:
You need a special tool to seperate the wheel and they are apparently like rocking horse sh1t - not sure how true this is.
FFG
Hens teeth a easier to find. the alternative is the angle grinder at the risk of damaging the rims....
Tower View have the tool set and can split them BTW.
Wouldn't it be safer to drill them out?cantus,
Almost guarantee that the bolts are past their best by looking at the heads. Go for new ones otherwise these will spoil the good work and will probbly go rusty again pretty soon. if you split them you'll need to seal them too - not sure what it is but it isn't just any old silicon (not M&S either).
FFG
Almost guarantee that the bolts are past their best by looking at the heads. Go for new ones otherwise these will spoil the good work and will probbly go rusty again pretty soon. if you split them you'll need to seal them too - not sure what it is but it isn't just any old silicon (not M&S either).
FFG
I am presently re-furbing my wheels. None of the bolts on mine look as bad as yours and I have experienced hellish trouble getting them apart. You will not be able to remove your bolts without destroying them. The bolts have a special 10 point head and obtaining the correct tool for removal is difficult. I obtained the pair of nuts (picture posted by ceneus): the idea is that you insert the nuts inside standard sockets. I found it imposssible to get the sockets in to do the job. I manipulated the 'nut inserts' with an open ended spanner. I found the inserts simply not tough enough to take on gauled titanium. I attempted to bang a socket over the head of the nut and remove it using brute force - this did,nt work for me - I suspect that even given the correct factory tool they will resist removal. I have taken to removing mine, using a dremel with a flexi shaft entension and fibre-glass reinforced cut off wheels. With the wheel shiney side up cut a slot in the head of the bolt, down to the shoulder. Turn the wheel over and cut off the nut down to the shoulder. Carefully drill away the centre of the nut/ bolt until you have weakened the assemby to be able to turn the bolt via your slot. You need time and strong arms and shoulders - believe me... Simply attemping to drill out the bolt/ nuts is possible, but you will break/ blunt drill bits. If you still want to have a go yourself I suggest you contact Hans before you start.
A very nice chap in Norway - via an article which is featured under one of the Lotus Forums (search on OZ wheels). I believe he plasma cuts them from a stainless material -type 316, or 304, etc - unfortunately this is not tool quality, (as he states) - if you could run off infinite sets cheaply in this material then you could be in with a chance of removing all your bolts and completing the job.
The bolts are M7's, an unusual size outside of the automotive trade. I will of course replace my bolts with non OZ items, (either stainless or titanium); I am presently investigating a couple of options. I'am sure stainless, despite some opinions to the contary, regarding strenghth and differntial rates of expansion, etc. will be fine. Compomotive use stainless M7's on their split rims, and they will sell the bolts to you (they are quite approachable). Speaking with a guy in the office who's just had his split rims re-furbed by one of the professional wheel refurbishers, and having spoken with another well respected wheel re-furber, I can confirm that they both use stainless bolts.
>> Edited by wedgienauld on Saturday 3rd December 11:40
The bolts are M7's, an unusual size outside of the automotive trade. I will of course replace my bolts with non OZ items, (either stainless or titanium); I am presently investigating a couple of options. I'am sure stainless, despite some opinions to the contary, regarding strenghth and differntial rates of expansion, etc. will be fine. Compomotive use stainless M7's on their split rims, and they will sell the bolts to you (they are quite approachable). Speaking with a guy in the office who's just had his split rims re-furbed by one of the professional wheel refurbishers, and having spoken with another well respected wheel re-furber, I can confirm that they both use stainless bolts.
>> Edited by wedgienauld on Saturday 3rd December 11:40
Hallo all,
Hans Daalhuisen will visit me tomorrow with all necessary tools and bolts.
Last night I started to clean the wheels on the inside and I can tell you that a steelbrush on a drill machine makes it almost shine ! This week I will replace the bolts by taken them out one by one.
I will keep you informed about the progress.
William
Hans Daalhuisen will visit me tomorrow with all necessary tools and bolts.
Last night I started to clean the wheels on the inside and I can tell you that a steelbrush on a drill machine makes it almost shine ! This week I will replace the bolts by taken them out one by one.
I will keep you informed about the progress.
William
Hormone said:
Can anyone tell me where can I get me a set of those wheels and how much?
Theres a set of 4 in my workshop
Brian, how many do you need ? I may sell them, or some of them if it gets you out of a mess
Yeah I was thinking of having some tools made up, with cuneus or cantus (or maybe both) interested I've got about 7 takers so far.
They will be better that the nut type ones, more like a standard torx socket (except of course 10-point).
I hadn't realised until now that each taker will need 2 sockets. One for the back, one for the front.
So - now to measuring up and getting them made.
They will be better that the nut type ones, more like a standard torx socket (except of course 10-point).
I hadn't realised until now that each taker will need 2 sockets. One for the back, one for the front.
So - now to measuring up and getting them made.
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