Wedge Radiator Removal

[Unders]

Hi there,

My 400SE is nearly ready to go back on the road and only a couple of things need doing before this can happen. My biggest problem is removing the radiator so I can get it reconditioned.

Is there an easy way to remove the radiator?

I have tried for hours to get it to fit out the gap above, and there appears to be no way to get it out the bottom either.

Please help! I cant wait to get her back on the road!!

[ed_crouch]

You'll need to remove the front underspoiler/bumper.

Then disconnect battery and raise headlights by hand (actually best to do this first as it makes access easier to the bumper retaining nuts).

Disconnect all hoses, otter switch wiring.

Theres a bracket each side of the rad, bolted through the body. Undo both nuts and bolts on both sides.

Radiator is heavy, but will drop out the bottom with brackets attached.

Its a slightly modified Rangerover rad. I paid £130 to get mine reconned.

[Grady]

And consider replacing that snap-on otter switch with a soldered-in mount for a threaded sender. I guess otter switches don't blow out often but it looked iffy to me. Grady

[Unders]

That underspoiler looks to be one large piece that doesnt come off. I will have another go this weekend. Thanks for your help

[rev-erend]

As Ed says - it comes out underneath..

Also worth saying - there is usually an access hot behind the front number plate.

[Number 7]

Unders said:

That underspoiler looks to be one large piece that doesnt come off. I will have another go this weekend. Thanks for your help

He may have been referring to the 350i set-up, which has a detachable spoiler.
And you obviously need to remove the oil cooler (not necessary to disconnect the oil lines though, as long as they don't get strained whilst unsupported) and its far easier if you take off the fan first - held by 3 or 4 allen headed bolts usually.

7.

[ed_crouch]

The bumper assembly is held on by 4 or 6 10mm nuts. If you raise the headlamp pods, you can reach in through the holes under the pods with a 10mm ratchet spanner and undo the nuts. Bumper drops down. Access may be obscured if the car has a bib-spoiler underneath. This may need to be removed first.

It is possible that the studs the nuts screw onto are quire rusty and may even shear off!

If any of the studs are well manky or sheared off, www.bighead.co.uk and buy a bunch of 316 stainless studs to replace them. £50 minimum order. They said they used to sell a SHEDLOAD to TVR when I phoned! If its GRP and screwed to a wedge body, its secured with a bighead.

Ooorrrrrr, talk nicely to me and for a pint I'll supply you with some cos I've got a bunch left!

Ed.

[Pooh]

I recently changed the rad on my 400SE, remove the fans, oil cooler(no need to disconnect the hoses) and all water hoses, unbolt the rad mounts from the body and it drops out the bottom. It is a bit fiddly but I did not have to remove the light pods to do it.

[AM400]

Recently rebuilt the cooling system on my 400. I replaced the useless otter switch with an M22mm boss which opens up a whole lot of possible replacements including adjustable.Had the original hole sealed and the new hole cut at the front under the top inlet. The otter can be removed easily now with the rad in situ. I currently have an 80 degree switch fitted.

Edited by AM400 on Wednesday 19th August 23:05

[Unders]

Pooh said:

I recently changed the rad on my 400SE, remove the fans, oil cooler(no need to disconnect the hoses) and all water hoses, unbolt the rad mounts from the body and it drops out the bottom. It is a bit fiddly but I did not have to remove the light pods to do it.

I dont know how you managed to drop it out the bottom. On mine there is a wooden panel either side of the rad that it bolts onto and is fibreglassed IIRC in some way to the wooden panel underneath the rad. This is what is puzzling me really as I dont see a way of it coming off to get the rad out the bottom.

All hoses are disconnected, and cowling is out so the rad is just sat in there waiting to find its way out.

[rev-erend]

With all this talk of wooden panels .. sounds like you have a boat .. not a TVR.

Also sounds like a previous owner has made a few mods.. never seen one with wooden panels before.

[Pooh]

Unders said:

Pooh said:

I recently changed the rad on my 400SE, remove the fans, oil cooler(no need to disconnect the hoses) and all water hoses, unbolt the rad mounts from the body and it drops out the bottom. It is a bit fiddly but I did not have to remove the light pods to do it.

I dont know how you managed to drop it out the bottom. On mine there is a wooden panel either side of the rad that it bolts onto and is fibreglassed IIRC in some way to the wooden panel underneath the rad. This is what is puzzling me really as I dont see a way of it coming off to get the rad out the bottom.

All hoses are disconnected, and cowling is out so the rad is just sat in there waiting to find its way out.

As Rev-erend said, it sounds like yours is non standard, there is no wood round the radiator in mine.
Good luck getting it out, you will probably need a saw.

[AM400]

Mine has plywood at either side of the radiator, this forms the sides to the light pod recess and is what the rad mounting brackets bolt to. It has just been fibreglassed in, but there is no wood underneath the rad. Once the fan and cowling have been removed the radiator just managed to side out from underneath although it is very tight.

[jmorgan]

Mine would not drop out the bottom until I had, er, modified the area around the bottom hose exit. Came out a treat then.

The bottom of the rad on mine has two spikes that sit in the rad bracket holes then two nut and bolts to hold it in at the top, one either side. No wood?

[ed_crouch]

I reckon its photo time, if you are able to. Then we'd quickly be able to tell you if the wooden panel is standard or not. Sounds odd, once the bumper is off, the bottom of the rad should cant forwards a bit and then slide out?

Ed.

[Unders]

Cheers for the help,

I will have another go at it this weekend and if I'm unsuccessful I will post up a couple of pictures.

[Wedg1e]

AM400 said:

Mine has plywood at either side of the radiator, this forms the sides to the light pod recess and is what the rad mounting brackets bolt to.

Technically, they are the Wedge's front crumple zones

[AM400]

Wedg1e said:

AM400 said:

Mine has plywood at either side of the radiator, this forms the sides to the light pod recess and is what the rad mounting brackets bolt to.

Technically, they are the Wedge's front crumple zones

who needs waxoil when Cuprinol will do!

[combine]

ed_crouch said:

I reckon its photo time, if you are able to. Then we'd quickly be able to tell you if the wooden panel is standard or not. Sounds odd, once the bumper is off, the bottom of the rad should cant forwards a bit and then slide out?

Ed.

Yes to the above as I need to remove my rad to get it reconned soon , would like to make sure of ease of removal beforehand .

[blaineuk]

combine said:

ed_crouch said:

I reckon its photo time, if you are able to. Then we'd quickly be able to tell you if the wooden panel is standard or not. Sounds odd, once the bumper is off, the bottom of the rad should cant forwards a bit and then slide out?

Ed.

Yes to the above as I need to remove my rad to get it reconned soon , would like to make sure of ease of removal beforehand .

mine has got wood either side of the radiator, not ideal but does the job.