RE: Ginetta G4
Discussion
I have a Dare G4 with the 2.0 Zetec and it runs HOT. I have replaced the radiator with a racing aluminum radiator and was wondering if any of you have the same problem and, whether fitting a stronger fan would make a difference.
The car runs too hot in traffic (I smell coolant, steam, etc.) when in traffic below 20 MPH for an extended period of time.
Thoughts?
The car runs too hot in traffic (I smell coolant, steam, etc.) when in traffic below 20 MPH for an extended period of time.
Thoughts?
Suspect if that was the problem it would over heat all the time, and be generally unhealthy. Have a look here for the explanation on water pump www.zetecinside.com/xr2/stepbystep.htm#step3
If your instalation is the same as mine, then you should not need an overflow bottle as there should be an expansion tank on the left side of the engine compartment in front of the bulhead. It is one of the few non-new bits that Dare use, having been sourced from a second-hand Metro, I believe. It would be worth checking that the cap is sealing properly, and that the tank is about half full when cold.
Also, you will find that the heater valve is a cable-operated device that sits in the heater hose above the gearbox. Because the system is effectively sealed (no pressure cap), it runs at high pressure and to be honest the average kitcar heater valve struggles to cope. I have found that the valve leaks quite a lot when closed, but not when open which has the added benefit of passing hot water through the heater matrix and taking a little more heat out of the engine.
Heater on or off, the cabin gets opressively hot on long journeys due to heat-soak through the bulkhead, so I just open the port-holes ( i cannit call them windows!).
Also, you will find that the heater valve is a cable-operated device that sits in the heater hose above the gearbox. Because the system is effectively sealed (no pressure cap), it runs at high pressure and to be honest the average kitcar heater valve struggles to cope. I have found that the valve leaks quite a lot when closed, but not when open which has the added benefit of passing hot water through the heater matrix and taking a little more heat out of the engine.
Heater on or off, the cabin gets opressively hot on long journeys due to heat-soak through the bulkhead, so I just open the port-holes ( i cannit call them windows!).
Hi I am trying to contact the North America Ginetta Owners club NAGOR???
It was mentioned on a post ealier (nagor.org) but this dos'nt work. anyone know if the club still exists.
I have available G4 fixed head 1/43rd scale models and would like to let them know about them.
Thanks
Rae
It was mentioned on a post ealier (nagor.org) but this dos'nt work. anyone know if the club still exists.
I have available G4 fixed head 1/43rd scale models and would like to let them know about them.
Thanks
Rae
Regarding reverse, this is the one cog in a Type 9 Ford box - I think - that is not synchro, so it could be a dragging clutch. If not, then something mechanical is broken down there.... but try checking the oil level in the box first - the Type 9 is prone to leaks, and a lack of oil can lead to gear selection problems.
This is bad news - although the oily bits are straight-forward enough, getting them out requires the engine out as well - the box will not come out from underneath as the chassis is in the way.
Back to the overheating, our car has a valve that sits above the box and controls the flow of hot water to the heater, and leaks profusely when it is closed, so we leave the heater on...
This is bad news - although the oily bits are straight-forward enough, getting them out requires the engine out as well - the box will not come out from underneath as the chassis is in the way.
Back to the overheating, our car has a valve that sits above the box and controls the flow of hot water to the heater, and leaks profusely when it is closed, so we leave the heater on...
Check out this video, for anyone who didnt believe the performance a specked G4 can offer..............
www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtYkmVL0qH8
www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtYkmVL0qH8
it a Dare G4. anyone who knows anything will recognise the bonnet etc...
thats the noise a 230 BHP 2.0 lt Zetec makes!!!!. its got no soundproofing. This was posted by the Driver i think............! (on Youtube)
It IS the Ex- mark Walklett G4!!!!!!!!!!!
It was quicker than anything else,,,, as u can see
thats the noise a 230 BHP 2.0 lt Zetec makes!!!!. its got no soundproofing. This was posted by the Driver i think............! (on Youtube)
It IS the Ex- mark Walklett G4!!!!!!!!!!!
It was quicker than anything else,,,, as u can see
geeeman
like i said i am no genius about ginetta g4's i have never driven either a g4 or g12 just seen them in mags and books
i have only talked to spadge hopkins of cottage classics in the u.k. about g4's and g12's before he steered me towards TVR's (i did turn down the opportunity to buy a very rare ginetta g10 from spadge but was lucky in that my good friend bought it and is restoring it about two hours north of tulsa)
spadge is able to make a g12 if anyone is interested he can do a car in primer with no engine or transaxle for about 20,000 to 25,000 u.s. dollars just google cottage classics very nice guy very honest got me interested in tvrs and tvrs with v-8's in them so i was lucky enough to buy a 71 vixen converted to 302 ford power has a new chromoly chassis with triumph tr6 front suspension and jag e independent rear suspension with inboard discs, four speed toploader transmission, 385 hp, 1900 lbs, etc.
but if you are interested in doing a ginetta g4 or g12 give spadge a chance to make one for you i think a ginetta g12 completed except for motor and transaxle for 20 to 25,000 dollars is respectable i think this would be a very basic car but it would be a g12 i am not sure if he can do a g4 but you would need to talk to him about that project i am almost 100 percent sure that his prices would be much less expensive than a Dare product; however, the Dare product might have different suspension, etc. than the original g4's were using in the sixties i am not sure that would make them better handling or faster would be interested in getting feedback from someone who has actually driven both of the cars
kash
tulsa
like i said i am no genius about ginetta g4's i have never driven either a g4 or g12 just seen them in mags and books
i have only talked to spadge hopkins of cottage classics in the u.k. about g4's and g12's before he steered me towards TVR's (i did turn down the opportunity to buy a very rare ginetta g10 from spadge but was lucky in that my good friend bought it and is restoring it about two hours north of tulsa)
spadge is able to make a g12 if anyone is interested he can do a car in primer with no engine or transaxle for about 20,000 to 25,000 u.s. dollars just google cottage classics very nice guy very honest got me interested in tvrs and tvrs with v-8's in them so i was lucky enough to buy a 71 vixen converted to 302 ford power has a new chromoly chassis with triumph tr6 front suspension and jag e independent rear suspension with inboard discs, four speed toploader transmission, 385 hp, 1900 lbs, etc.
but if you are interested in doing a ginetta g4 or g12 give spadge a chance to make one for you i think a ginetta g12 completed except for motor and transaxle for 20 to 25,000 dollars is respectable i think this would be a very basic car but it would be a g12 i am not sure if he can do a g4 but you would need to talk to him about that project i am almost 100 percent sure that his prices would be much less expensive than a Dare product; however, the Dare product might have different suspension, etc. than the original g4's were using in the sixties i am not sure that would make them better handling or faster would be interested in getting feedback from someone who has actually driven both of the cars
kash
tulsa
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