Oil Advice and Recommendations Here

[K4TRV]

powerlord said:

thanks to the advice here (and my high oil consumption at the moment of 1.5 litres per 500 miles) I mentioned to Kerridges about the possibility of putting a heavier oil in my tusc. they always use mobil 0w40, but I mentioned I'd heard advice (here and from others) that 5w40, 10w50 or even castrol RS 10w60 is good. They hadn't heard this and said they'd check with the factory. The factory (to my surprise to be honest) came back saying that yes, they recommend 10w60 as being very suitable and will dramatically reduce oil consumption. so.. it's getting that in it (assuming they can find it somewhere... apparently it's more expensive than mobil 1!!! christ I though that was the most expensive) as it's in for it's 24K service at the moment. I'll let you know how it goes. stu

Powerlord - I don't work for any oil company, but if you go to:www.castrolclassicoils.co.uk/ you'll see a banner running at the top of the page proclaiming a deal for a case of 4 x 4ltrs of Castrol RS synthetic for £109.99 post free in UK.

Cheers

Trev McM

[crankedup]

Thank you Dr Oil for the help regards R/R 20/25, very helpful indeed.

[fatboy chim]

opieoilman said:

Your gearbox calls for a automatic transmission fluid. Meeting the spec of DexronII, something like the Fuchs ATF3000. For the diff I would suggest the Silkolene Syn 5 75w-90, this is a competition oil used in many diffs. E-mail me and I will forward some prices on to you. Cheers Guy.

Guy,
Mole Valley TVR fitted SHC80W-140ID in my GKN diff (95 Chimaera), so would your recommendation of 75W-90 be as good or better
Andy

[GarryM]

K4TRV said:

powerlord said: thanks to the advice here (and my high oil consumption at the moment of 1.5 litres per 500 miles) I mentioned to Kerridges about the possibility of putting a heavier oil in my tusc. they always use mobil 0w40, but I mentioned I'd heard advice (here and from others) that 5w40, 10w50 or even castrol RS 10w60 is good. They hadn't heard this and said they'd check with the factory. The factory (to my surprise to be honest) came back saying that yes, they recommend 10w60 as being very suitable and will dramatically reduce oil consumption. so.. it's getting that in it (assuming they can find it somewhere... apparently it's more expensive than mobil 1!!! christ I though that was the most expensive) as it's in for it's 24K service at the moment. I'll let you know how it goes. stu Powerlord - I don't work for any oil company, but if you go to:www.castrolclassicoils.co.uk/ you'll see a banner running at the top of the page proclaiming a deal for a case of 4 x 4ltrs of Castrol RS synthetic for £109.99 post free in UK. Cheers Trev McM

Just a thought - as Dr Oil has been so helpful why don't you buy it from him? His price is about £3 more than that but hey if it wasn't for him you still be putting 0W/40 in your P&J. I'm not connected BTW.

[cosmoschick]

CiderwithCerbie said:

They used to recommend Castrol Magnatech 10w-40 for the Speed 6's...

That's what I've been using for my Chim - am I to assume that this is now a "no no" and in future I should use the recommended 10w-50?

[opieoilman]

fatboy chim said:

opieoilman said: Your gearbox calls for a automatic transmission fluid. Meeting the spec of DexronII, something like the Fuchs ATF3000. For the diff I would suggest the Silkolene Syn 5 75w-90, this is a competition oil used in many diffs. E-mail me and I will forward some prices on to you. Cheers Guy. Guy, Mole Valley TVR fitted SHC80W-140ID in my GKN diff (95 Chimaera), so would your recommendation of 75W-90 be as good or better Andy

Andy,

The 80w-140 is usually a mineral oil hence it has to be that thick so it can cope with the loads generated in the diff. This is generally known as the GL5 rating. The 75w-90 I suggested is a clever oil as in its a full synthetic, that contains ester but it has both the GL4 properties needed for a gearbox and the GL5 load carrying propeties needed for a diff. Because it is a full synthetic that contains ester it does not have to be as thick as a mineral to hold greater loads.

This is a competitoin oil and we supply it to drifiting teams with great results as their diffs really get used hard.

Cheers

Guy.

[opieoilman]

cosmoschick said:

CiderwithCerbie said: They used to recommend Castrol Magnatech 10w-40 for the Speed 6's... That's what I've been using for my Chim - am I to assume that this is now a "no no" and in future I should use the recommended 10w-50?

The Castrol is not a "no no" but you can just do a lot better if you wish, with these lovely TVR's it would be a shame not to do the best for them.

The 10w-40 Castrol is mineral multigrade oil, it is of the right viscosity, however if the car is pushed hard than the SAE40 of a mineral oil will not last that long meaning it will begin to "shear" down quite rapidly and your looking at 3000 miles oil changes to keep the oil in good condition and at dealer prices as well.

Remember dealers will only put in what oil they have signed an agreement for, not necessarily what is best for the car.

The V8 due to its old design does like a thicker oil so a good 10w-50 PAO or Ester/PAO (true synthetic) is ideal for our UK climate. A well looked after engine will always benfit from a good synthetic and your oil change intervals can be around 9000 miles+ depending on use and brand.

Cheers

Guy.

[opieoilman]

Our website has been updated with new data sheets and it now includes the MOTUL range which incorporates the popular 300V Double Ester range.

Happy browsing!

www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm

Cheers
Guy

[oldred]

Guy

What's your recommendation for:

Car: TVR V8S
Year: 1992 - 35000 miles
Engine: 4.0 litre Rover V8
Current Oil: N/K
Mods: None

Cheers Guy...

Paul.

[opieoilman]

oldred said:

Guy What's your recommendation for: Car: TVR V8S Year: 1992 - 35000 miles Engine: 4.0 litre Rover V8 Current Oil: N/K Mods: None Cheers Guy... Paul.

Paul,

I recomend a full synthetic, a lot of people assume a fully synthetic is too thin for the V8, but this is not true. Synthetics come in the same viscosities as mineral and semi so I would look at a 10w-50 grade made from PAO or Ester/PAO base stocks, ie not petroleum used.

My personaly suggestion would be silkolene, however, Mobil, Motul and Redline all do top quality synthetics around this grade.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Guy.

[oldred]

opieoilman said:

oldred said: Guy What's your recommendation for: Car: TVR V8S Year: 1992 - 35000 miles Engine: 4.0 litre Rover V8 Current Oil: N/K Mods: None Cheers Guy... Paul. Paul, I recomend a full synthetic, a lot of people assume a fully synthetic is too thin for the V8, but this is not true. Synthetics come in the same viscosities as mineral and semi so I would look at a 10w-50 grade made from PAO or Ester/PAO base stocks, ie not petroleum used. My personaly suggestion would be silkolene, however, Mobil, Motul and Redline all do top quality synthetics around this grade. Hope this helps. Cheers Guy.

Thanks for the advice Guy.

[HarryW]

Anyone know who supplies Carrefour supermarkets in France . Picked up some 100% fully synth own brand 5/50 stuff, usual API/ACEA SL/CF A3/B3 accreditations. Taking a hint from previous posts I've ignored the fact it says diesel cars oil as a just marketing gimic .
Bought it for the everyday hack but given the API/ACEA standards, shirley it must be good enough for the Tiv .

Harry

btw 5ltrs + 2 ltr free for 24Euros .

[opieoilman]

A word of caution – You get what you pay for!

Below is an article written by John Rowland, Silkolene/Fuchs Chief R & D Chemist for 40 years.

Quote:

Costs of synthetics vary considerably. The most expensive are the “Ester” types originally only used in jet engines. These cost 6 to 10 times more than high quality mineral oils. The cheapest synthetics are not really synthetic at all, from a chemists point of view. These are in fact specially refined light viscosity mineral oils known as “hydrocracked”. These have some advantages over equivalent mineral oils, particularly in lower viscosity motor oils such as 5w-30 or other oils with a low “W” rating such as 5w-50 etc and they cost about 1.5 times more than good quality mineral fractions. We use several different grades of this base oil, where appropriate. This is the “synthetic” which is always used in cheap oils that are labelled “synthetic”. Yes it’s a cruel world, you get what you pay for!

Now, you may ask, why are these special mineral oils called “synthetic”? Well, it was all sorted in a legal battle that took place in the USA about ten years ago. Sound reasons (including evidence from a Nobel Prize winning chemist) were disregarded and the final ruling was that certain mineral bases that had undergone extra chemical treatments could be called “synthetic”. Needless to say, the marketing executives wet their knickers with pure delight! They realised that this meant, and still does, that the critical buzz-word “synthetic” could be printed on a can of cheap oil provided that the contents included a few percent of “hydrocracked” mineral oil, at a cost of quite literally a few pence.

So, the chemistry of “synthetics” is complex and so is the politics!

The economics are very simple. If you like the look of a smart well-marketed can with “synthetic” printed on it, fair enough, it will not cost you a lot; and now you know why this is the case. But, if you drive a high performance car, and you intend to keep it for several years, and maybe do the odd “track day”, then you need a genuine Ester/PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin) synthetic oil, such as PRO S or PRO R. This oil costs more money to buy, because it costs us a lot of money to make, very simply, you always get what you pay for!

UNQUOTE:

This article is something that all car owners should read and understand before buying oil and I’ve posted this with Johns permission.

The 5w-50 will be fine for the daily hack, but I would not put it in the tiv.

Cheers

Guy.

[HarryW]

IC............... what does this mean for the API/ACEA grading then, if a cracked mineral is SL/CF & A3/B3 then it meets their highest standards . Is there a higher recognised standard to judge these oils from reading the label. Only ask, as very few oils actually put ester/PAO on the label and I am very cautious of the 'it cost a lot, therefore it must be good' school of buying things. There are too many people/companies prepared to take advantage of that one IMHO .

Harry

[opieoilman]

HarryW said:

IC............... what does this mean for the API/ACEA grading then, if a cracked mineral is SL/CF & A3/B3 then it meets their highest standards . Is there a higher recognised standard to judge these oils from reading the label. Only ask, as very few oils actually put ester/PAO on the label and I am very cautious of the 'it cost a lot, therefore it must be good' school of buying things. There are too many people/companies prepared to take advantage of that one IMHO . Harry

Harry,

I agree. The API specs are there to be met for use in engines, it is easy to pass these specs but exceeding them is a diffrent matter.

Very similar to super market coke cola, passes the test for human consupmtion, using cheap ingredients, but traditional branded coca cola passes the same tests, but go beyond it making it a nicer drink, a loose comparason I know but hopefully explains the difference.

Most true synthetics pao or pao/ester manufacturers are proud of there product and will put it on the can Silkolene, Motul, Redline, Fuchs to name a few, but many wont and these are the cons.

High street shops will not stock these oils as they are expensive to buy, once they have put their mark up on it no-one would buy, hence the shelves are full of snake oils claiming to be something they are not for an attractive price.

Top quality synthetics are only really available through distributors like myself.

Heres some explanations.

PI = American Petroleum Institute
S = Service - Petrol Engine Performance
C = Commercisl - Diesel Engine Performance

PETROL

SG - Introduced 1989 has much more active dispersant to combat black sludge.

SH - Introduced 1993 has same engine tests as SG, but includes phosphorus limit 0.12%, together with control of foam, volatility and shear stability.

SJ - Introduced 1996 has the same engine tests as SG/SH, but phosphorus limit 0.10% together with variation on volatility limits

SL - Introduced 2001, all new engine tests reflective of modern engine designs meeting current emmissions standards

DIESEL

CD - Introduced 1955, international standard for turbo diesel engine oils for many years, uses single cylinder test engine only

CE - Introduced 1984, improved control of oil consumption, oil thickening, piston deposits an wear, uses additional multi cylinder test engines

CF4 - Introduced 1990, further improvements in control of oil consumption and piston deposits, uses low emmission test engine

CF - Introduced 1994, modernised version of CD, reverts to single cylinder low emission test engine. Intended for certain indirect injection engines

CF2 - Introduced 1994, defines effective control of cylinder deposits and ring face scuffing, intended for 2 stroke diesel engines

CG4 - Introduced 1994, development of CF4 giving improved control of piston deposits, wear, oxidation stability and soot entrainment. Uses low sulphur diesel fuel in engine tests

CH4 - Introduced 1998, development of CG4, giving further improvements in control of soot related wear and piston deposits, uses more comprehensive engine test program to include low and high sulphur fuelsSG - Introduced 1989 has much more active dispersant to combat black sludge.

ACEA Specifications
(Association des Constructeurs Europeens d’Automobiles)

ACEA ratings are prefixed with “A” for petrol, “B” for light or passenger car diesel and “E” for heavy duty diesel.

The current specifications are:

A1 Fuel economy petrol
A2 Standard performance level
A3 High performance and/or extended drain
A4 Reserved for future use in certain direct injection engines
A5 Combines A1 fuel economy with A3 performance

B1 Fuel economy diesel
B2 Standard performance level
B3 High performance and/or extended drain
B4 For direct injection car diesel engines
B5 Combines B1 fuel economy with B3/B4 performance

E1 Non-turbocharged light duty diesel engines
E2 Standard performance level
E3 High performance and extended drain
E4 Higher performance and longer extended drain
E5 High performance and long drain plus API performances

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Guy.

[HarryW]

Pretty much understand that, hence the quoting of SL/CF A3/B3 in the post. Which if taken on face value means it is good enough for high performance cars . Perhaps a more regular change interval . Need to source some of the said oils then, having never read the label on one of the quoted brands to see the magical[/] PAO/Ester words on it.

Harry