Oil Advice and Recommendations Here
Discussion
Pheonix,
I had a look at your profile and webiste, all I can say is holy sh#t!!! is that thing for real???
The oil I would suggest is the Silkolene Pro R 15w-50 ester/pao syntheitc.
Tech data here www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm
With an engine like this, I have also contacted the technical team and chemists at Silkolene to see if they can add any other recomendations for you.
Cheers
Guy.
I had a look at your profile and webiste, all I can say is holy sh#t!!! is that thing for real???
The oil I would suggest is the Silkolene Pro R 15w-50 ester/pao syntheitc.
Tech data here www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm
With an engine like this, I have also contacted the technical team and chemists at Silkolene to see if they can add any other recomendations for you.
Cheers
Guy.
opieoilman said:
Pheonix,
I had a look at your profile and webiste, all I can say is holy sh#t!!! is that thing for real???
The oil I would suggest is the Silkolene Pro R 15w-50 ester/pao syntheitc.
Tech data here www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm
With an engine like this, I have also contacted the technical team and chemists at Silkolene to see if they can add any other recomendations for you.
Cheers
Guy.
Thanks Guy.
Yup she's foreal. 6 weeks to go before things start coming together.
Excellent, email me offline with the Silkolene recommendations.
Ash.
Advice on S6 3.6L currently at 8000 miles,
Handbook recommends 0W-40 fully synthetic Carlude triple R for 6000 miles and on.
At last service TMS put in Castrol formula RS but it does state what grade.
I did notice after the service however oil P had risen from 8 - 15 psi at tickover depending on temp to 13 - 25 psi
and risen from 48 psi to 54 psi at high revs
Any thoughts appreciated
Handbook recommends 0W-40 fully synthetic Carlude triple R for 6000 miles and on.
At last service TMS put in Castrol formula RS but it does state what grade.
I did notice after the service however oil P had risen from 8 - 15 psi at tickover depending on temp to 13 - 25 psi
and risen from 48 psi to 54 psi at high revs
Any thoughts appreciated
I just looked up the figures and I can't find the Carlube 0w-40 but it will be a typical 0w-40 from a viscosity point of view so here are the differences.
Castrol RS 0w-40
@40degC = 73.5cst
@100degC = 12.90cst
Castrol RS 10w-60
@40degC = 159cst
@100degC = 22.70cst
These would account for the oil pressure differences unless I'm mistaken!
Cheers
Guy
Castrol RS 0w-40
@40degC = 73.5cst
@100degC = 12.90cst
Castrol RS 10w-60
@40degC = 159cst
@100degC = 22.70cst
These would account for the oil pressure differences unless I'm mistaken!
Cheers
Guy
Just been told by the lady on the service desk that they use 10W - 60 Castrol formula rs on all tvr servicing. Can you give me technical info for back up for when i phone them tomorrow please, ie pros and cons and what i should change too.
Many thanks
Not sure why a dealer would use 10w-60 when tvr recommend 0w-40
Many thanks
Not sure why a dealer would use 10w-60 when tvr recommend 0w-40
nickfb1 said:
Just been told by the lady on the service desk that they use 10W - 60 Castrol formula rs on all tvr servicing. Can you give me technical info for back up for when i phone them tomorrow please, ie pros and cons and what i should change too.
Many thanks
Not sure why a dealer would use 10w-60 when tvr recommend 0w-40
I can't understand what posessed them to do this.
If the handbook says 0w-40 then use a 0w-40 (Castrol RS 0w-40 or M1 0w-40 are readily available) and stick with it.
The difference is at both ends of the scale.
10w is poorer cold start than 0w and the sae 60 is just too thick which will cause excess friction and heat in the engine. Both factors cause more wear long term.
Cheers
Guy
My thoughts are that its apples and pears here, they're completely different.
I personally wouldn't use thicker than a 10w-50 and would look at a 5w-40 in preference. They should be decent synthetic ones of course.
Remember RS 10w-60 is not a true synthetic, it's petroleum based.
Cheers
Guy
I personally wouldn't use thicker than a 10w-50 and would look at a 5w-40 in preference. They should be decent synthetic ones of course.
Remember RS 10w-60 is not a true synthetic, it's petroleum based.
Cheers
Guy
The place I have been taking my chimarea 450 uses Shell Helix Ultra 5w 40, which from what I have been reading would appear to be a bit thin. Thier view is it offers better cold start performance. I Have a leven cooling kit installed which keeps the running temp to a maximum of 85 degrees and I change the oil less than 3000 mile intervals. No oil pressure or excessive usage problems.
I would really apreciate your view on this.
Many thanks,
Gareth.
I would really apreciate your view on this.
Many thanks,
Gareth.
5w-40 is fine as long as you're getting good oil pressure and not excessive usage.
The benefits of low viscosity oils far outweigh the benefits of using a thick oil everytime.
Better cold start = less engine wear
More BHP at the wheels
Better fuel consumption
Low viscosity oils dissapate heat better
Cheers
Guy
The benefits of low viscosity oils far outweigh the benefits of using a thick oil everytime.
Better cold start = less engine wear
More BHP at the wheels
Better fuel consumption
Low viscosity oils dissapate heat better
Cheers
Guy
TVR S1 1988
Engine Cologne 2.8 V6
Full rebuild 7000 miles ago with alloy timing gear,polished ports, new cam and unleaded heads
Now starting to loosen up and easily revs up to 5500rpm after lengthy running in for first 5000miles
First oil change at 500 then every 5000
Oil used
Valvoline Durablend
Synthetic blend
SAE 10W-40 API:SL/CF ACEA:A3/B3 MB:229.1,
VW 505.00/505.00(1/97)
It uses about 1pt every 2000miles and runs at 55lb and tickover at 25lb.
Is this oil and the change period OK
Engine Cologne 2.8 V6
Full rebuild 7000 miles ago with alloy timing gear,polished ports, new cam and unleaded heads
Now starting to loosen up and easily revs up to 5500rpm after lengthy running in for first 5000miles
First oil change at 500 then every 5000
Oil used
Valvoline Durablend
Synthetic blend
SAE 10W-40 API:SL/CF ACEA:A3/B3 MB:229.1,
VW 505.00/505.00(1/97)
It uses about 1pt every 2000miles and runs at 55lb and tickover at 25lb.
Is this oil and the change period OK
bills1 said:
TVR S1 1988
Engine Cologne 2.8 V6
Full rebuild 7000 miles ago with alloy timing gear,polished ports, new cam and unleaded heads
Now starting to loosen up and easily revs up to 5500rpm after lengthy running in for first 5000miles
First oil change at 500 then every 5000
Oil used
Valvoline Durablend
Synthetic blend
SAE 10W-40 API:SL/CF ACEA:A3/B3 MB:229.1,
VW 505.00/505.00(1/97)
It uses about 1pt every 2000miles and runs at 55lb and tickover at 25lb.
Is this oil and the change period OK
All seems fine to me.
The Valvoline is a semi syntheitc and is ideal to finnish of the running in process, you could use a good quality full syntheitc if you wished to improve on quality and increase your drain intervals, also a good idea if the car is driven hard, if not then you will be fine as is.
Cheers
Guy.
widjit said:
opieoilman said:
s2art said:
One thing that has not been emphasised here is the importance of the smaller number eg 5w 50, with respect to the speed six.
As we all suspect a top end lubrication issue when first starting the engine the smaller the number the better. This is particularly important in winter. Are there any 5w 50's or better still 0w 50 oils out there any more? I would have thought they would be far beter than a 10w 50.
Yes this is important to a point, 5w is better than 10w etc for cold start.
However the numbers are extreme for UK Climate.
To meet the 0w test an oil has to pour at -35 degC and for 5w -30 degC!
These temps are brass monkey stuff, 10w is fine for UK and most European climates.
Cheers
Guy
This is misleading at best! All oils will pour at any temperature, it is the speed of pour which is important
Not strictly true. Oil will freeze as I'm sure opieoilman will tell you.
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