Oil Advice and Recommendations Here
Discussion
So, Guy, have you moved the mouldy old cabin cruiser that's propping up the wall between your site and Morrish's chip shop yet?
And could you give me your opinion on Synta fully synthetic as supplied by the VAG group? How does the TBN compare with Silkolene Pro R?
Not trying to catch you out just interested, that's all.
And could you give me your opinion on Synta fully synthetic as supplied by the VAG group? How does the TBN compare with Silkolene Pro R?
Not trying to catch you out just interested, that's all.
widjit said:
s2art said:
One thing that has not been emphasised here is the importance of the smaller number eg 5w 50, with respect to the speed six.
As we all suspect a top end lubrication issue when first starting the engine the smaller the number the better. This is particularly important in winter. Are there any 5w 50's or better still 0w 50 oils out there any more? I would have thought they would be far beter than a 10w 50.
Yes this is important to a point, 5w is better than 10w etc for cold start.
However the numbers are extreme for UK Climate.
To meet the 0w test an oil has to pour at -35 degC and for 5w -30 degC!
These temps are brass monkey stuff, 10w is fine for UK and most European climates.
Cheers
Guy
This is misleading at best! All oils will pour at any temperature, it is the speed of pour which is important
Hi Oilman
So for no one as said they use Motul Oils, I have used Motul 300V Competition 15W50 for the last eighteen months with no problems, prior to this i used Millers CFS 10w60(Millers do list this as FULLY/ 100% sythetic) how do motul rate compared to the others you recomend as the price is roughly the same. Also gearbox oil, I was advised some time ago (by a Motul distributor) not to use ATF in the gearbox, but use fully synthetic engine oil, so I have been using Motul in the G/box as well(although when I changed the clutch earlier this year I couldn't get Motul so used Silkolene R instead) I have to say that the gear change and feel is much inproved since the change from ATF. In the diff I'm using Millers CRX LS Enduro 80w140bm, the car is lightly modified making around 300 BHP. How bad can the car lube stuff be (TVR approved after all)I had been thinking of switching to this, and changeing the oli more often , every 1500mls instead of every 3000 or after each track day.
your thoughts will be gratefully received.
So for no one as said they use Motul Oils, I have used Motul 300V Competition 15W50 for the last eighteen months with no problems, prior to this i used Millers CFS 10w60(Millers do list this as FULLY/ 100% sythetic) how do motul rate compared to the others you recomend as the price is roughly the same. Also gearbox oil, I was advised some time ago (by a Motul distributor) not to use ATF in the gearbox, but use fully synthetic engine oil, so I have been using Motul in the G/box as well(although when I changed the clutch earlier this year I couldn't get Motul so used Silkolene R instead) I have to say that the gear change and feel is much inproved since the change from ATF. In the diff I'm using Millers CRX LS Enduro 80w140bm, the car is lightly modified making around 300 BHP. How bad can the car lube stuff be (TVR approved after all)I had been thinking of switching to this, and changeing the oli more often , every 1500mls instead of every 3000 or after each track day.
your thoughts will be gratefully received.
s2art said:
OK. What is the best 0w 40 or 5w 40 oil around? Given the 0w 50 or 5w 50 are not available. This is for the speed six. Huge longevity is not really important as we all change oil and filters every 6000 miles.
The best 0w-40 or 5w-40 oils are in my opinion, and on paper Mobil, Castrol, Fuchs, Silkonene, Redline. Would be my top.
However for the speed 6 I would go no thinner than a 5w-40.
Cheers
Guy.
Tyre Smoke said:
So, Guy, have you moved the mouldy old cabin cruiser that's propping up the wall between your site and Morrish's chip shop yet?
Good bit of history as thats been the depot since 1925 however we have been based up at Cardrew for 10 years now, Buckets hill is just a forcourt with a few pumps on it now, and yes that dodgy old boat has gone thank god as people thought it was mine. Prey tell, how do you know us?
Tyre Smoke said:
And could you give me your opinion on Synta fully synthetic as supplied by the VAG group? How does the TBN compare with Silkolene Pro R?
Not trying to catch you out just interested, that's all.
The synta oil is a home brand oil if you like, it is produced for VAG for their supply at dealers etc, however it is made to a cost, a bit like Tescos own brand Coke Cola, drinkable but made to a cost. Compared to Silkolene Pro its not even close.
If you are looking for oil to put in a VAG engine then go for Fuchs as they do all the factory fill for VAG/BMW/Mercedes etc.
Cheers
Guy.
budd said:
Hi Oilman
So for no one as said they use Motul Oils, I have used Motul 300V Competition 15W50 for the last eighteen months with no problems, prior to this i used Millers CFS 10w60(Millers do list this as FULLY/ 100% sythetic) how do motul rate compared to the others you recomend as the price is roughly the same. Also gearbox oil, I was advised some time ago (by a Motul distributor) not to use ATF in the gearbox, but use fully synthetic engine oil, so I have been using Motul in the G/box as well(although when I changed the clutch earlier this year I couldn't get Motul so used Silkolene R instead) I have to say that the gear change and feel is much inproved since the change from ATF. In the diff I'm using Millers CRX LS Enduro 80w140bm, the car is lightly modified making around 300 BHP. How bad can the car lube stuff be (TVR approved after all)I had been thinking of switching to this, and changeing the oli more often , every 1500mls instead of every 3000 or after each track day.
your thoughts will be gratefully received.
The Motul 300V is good oil, we had that one tested and were quite suprised with the results so no problem there, do not know about their other grades though.
The Millars 10w-60 is belived to be a full synthetic however the 10w-60 is grade is just not required by modern engines. It seems be an grade based on the belief thicker is better and that is not true. As the 10w-60 is when hot as thick as some gear oils, imagine the power needed to pump it around, it will also generate higher temps due to resitance of the thick oil.
Using engine oil in the gearbox is fine, other than a few GL4/GL5 issues gearboxes in my experience are trial and error to find what each individual likes, what I may consider a nice gear change you may not etc. However there are many gear products out there which claim to have different abilities in terms of gear load.
Car lube, to be honest I do not rate that highly, I think you will find it is TVR approved because of sponsorship for TVR challenge and the like.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Guy.
nasz said:
Make: TVR
Model: Chimaera
Year: 1992
Engine size and type: 4.3 V8
Any significant modification: None
Brand and viscosity currently used (if known)
10/40w
Thanks in advance - been thinking about this for sometime.
Nic
The 10w-40 is most likely to be a semi synthetic or mineral oil. If you are happy with it fine however you can go better. The V8 will like a thick oil due to its old design but that does not mean you cannot use a full synthetic, If you go for a Full synthetic around the 10w-50 or 15w-50 grade it will be fine plus you get all the benefits of using a synthetic oil.
Cheers
Guy.
opieoilman said:
Prey tell, how do you know us?
The synta oil is a home brand oil if you like, it is produced for VAG for their supply at dealers etc, however it is made to a cost, a bit like Tescos own brand Coke Cola, drinkable but made to a cost. Compared to Silkolene Pro its not even close.
If you are looking for oil to put in a VAG engine then go for Fuchs as they do all the factory fill for VAG/BMW/Mercedes etc.
Cheers
Guy.
Guy, I lived in Redruth for 25 years, my parents still live in Trewirgie. There's nowhere to hide!
The specification of Synta far exceeds a lot of comparable oils, it's equal to Mobil 1 according to the specification on the side of the container. I used it successfully for many changes in my 4.0 Chimaera. For about £15 quid for 5 litres I thought it was excellent. I'm still interested in the TBN comparison though.
Wasn't Redline an old pre war 'Esso' brand name?
Guy,
I've just rebuilt the T5 gearbox on my 96 Griff 500, what would you recommend filling it with, and what would you recommend for the GKN diff as Mobil gear oil stockists are few and far between around here.
What you suggest that might be more available in the usual outlets (castrol etc)?
Cheers
Neil
I've just rebuilt the T5 gearbox on my 96 Griff 500, what would you recommend filling it with, and what would you recommend for the GKN diff as Mobil gear oil stockists are few and far between around here.
What you suggest that might be more available in the usual outlets (castrol etc)?
Cheers
Neil
neilmac said:
Guy,
I've just rebuilt the T5 gearbox on my 96 Griff 500, what would you recommend filling it with, and what would you recommend for the GKN diff as Mobil gear oil stockists are few and far between around here.
What you suggest that might be more available in the usual outlets (castrol etc)?
Cheers
Neil
Your gearbox calls for a automatic transmission fluid. Meeting the spec of DexronII, something like the Fuchs ATF3000. For the diff I would suggest the Silkolene Syn 5 75w-90, this is a competition oil used in many diffs.
E-mail me and I will forward some prices on to you.
Cheers
Guy.
opieoilman said:
OK. What is the best 0w 40 or 5w 40 oil around? Given the 0w 50 or 5w 50 are not available. This is for the speed six. Huge longevity is not really important as we all change oil and filters every 6000 miles.
The best 0w-40 or 5w-40 oils are in my opinion, and on paper Mobil, Castrol, Fuchs, Silkonene, Redline. Would be my top.
However for the speed 6 I would go no thinner than a 5w-40.
Cheers
Guy.
Still a little puzzled. At normal running temps a 0w 40 will be practicaly the same 'thickness' as a 10w 40. So the only difference is when the engine is cold. What is it about the speed six that makes you consider a 0w 40 too thin? (particularly when firing it up in winter from stone cold)
s2art said:
s2art said:
OK. What is the best 0w 40 or 5w 40 oil around? Given the 0w 50 or 5w 50 are not available. This is for the speed six. Huge longevity is not really important as we all change oil and filters every 6000 miles.
The best 0w-40 or 5w-40 oils are in my opinion, and on paper Mobil, Castrol, Fuchs, Silkonene, Redline. Would be my top.
However for the speed 6 I would go no thinner than a 5w-40.
Cheers
Guy.
Still a little puzzled. At normal running temps a 0w 40 will be practicaly the same 'thickness' as a 10w 40. So the only difference is when the engine is cold. What is it about the speed six that makes you consider a 0w 40 too thin? (particularly when firing it up in winter from stone cold)
These 0w grade oils are generally for the new breed of engines that are coming out at the monent. They are designed to allow the engine to meet new MPG regs and emissions. The energy required to pump around a 0w is minimal so the MPG is increased. They are also very thermally stable oils as the engines now run much hotter to burn more gasses thus less emissions.
The speed 6 enigne does not really come under this bracket, it is more raw if you like. A 5w-40 would be fine or 10w-50 if used hard.
Does this clarify a bit?
cheers
Guy.
I use a type 1 vw beetle engine of 1776 c.c.in a beachbuggy and intend to run a stroker motor of 2.4 litres in my next one. What oils work best with these aircooled flat fours? I do know that synthetics are not recommended due to their inability to absorb much heat,
Thanks for all your help.
Thanks for all your help.
opieoilman said:
opieoilman said:
s2art said:
OK. What is the best 0w 40 or 5w 40 oil around? Given the 0w 50 or 5w 50 are not available. This is for the speed six. Huge longevity is not really important as we all change oil and filters every 6000 miles.
The best 0w-40 or 5w-40 oils are in my opinion, and on paper Mobil, Castrol, Fuchs, Silkonene, Redline. Would be my top.
However for the speed 6 I would go no thinner than a 5w-40.
Cheers
Guy.
Still a little puzzled. At normal running temps a 0w 40 will be practicaly the same 'thickness' as a 10w 40. So the only difference is when the engine is cold. What is it about the speed six that makes you consider a 0w 40 too thin? (particularly when firing it up in winter from stone cold)
These 0w grade oils are generally for the new breed of engines that are coming out at the monent. They are designed to allow the engine to meet new MPG regs and emissions. The energy required to pump around a 0w is minimal so the MPG is increased. They are also very thermally stable oils as the engines now run much hotter to burn more gasses thus less emissions.
The speed 6 enigne does not really come under this bracket, it is more raw if you like. A 5w-40 would be fine or 10w-50 if used hard.
Does this clarify a bit?
cheers
Guy.
Not really Guy. Perhaps if you could tell me, technically, what the downside is to using a 0w 40 in the speed six that would clarify your point. All the points you make about 0w 40 oil seem to be positive ones, and the point I made about speed of circulation from cold still seems relevant.
Even when driven hard it is difficult to get the oil temp to reach 100 C, in fact I have only seen it in the high nineties when stuck in traffic for long periods. Normally it is much less (60-70 C when cruising), so what does a thicker oil achieve?
DuncanM said:
Guy,
Would be interested in your (or anyone elses) opinion on Royal Purple racing oils.
Many thanks.
Duncan
Duncan,
We have had Royal Purple chemically tested along side other American oils, Redline for one. American oils are usually very good even with the VI Improver problems they have. Also they are way over priced.
I am afraid Royal Purple did not come out all that great, especially for the money you pay for it.
Cheers
Guy.
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