Meta alarm help please....
Discussion
So, after confirming my starter motor is good and my battery up to the job, the car will not turn over. At present the brain of the alarm (M99t) is out as it had to be sent off for two new blippers to be made up (never had the 15 digit code). The guy who I sent the brain to said that the car should still start once the immobiliser stick/lollipop thingy had been used to switch off the immobiliser (M36), which he said only affects the fuel pump and ignition and is separate to the M99t. When I do this the fuel pump primes but I get no ignition feed at the starter. My question is then, has the immobiliser gone south since the alarm brain came out (I couldn’t disarm it before removal so the alarm was still ‘on’), or do the alarm and immobiliser work together so that one won’t work without the other (which would mean that once my alarm brain is back in the car the immobiliser fault will clear and it’ll start). Any views? Thanks in advance.
Edited by SwanJack on Monday 4th June 11:11
SwanJack said:
So, after confirming my starter motor is good and my battery up to the job, the car will not turn over. At present the brain of the alarm (M99t) is out as it had to be sent off for two new blippers to be made up (never had the 15 digit code). The guy who I sent the brain to said that the car should still start once the immobiliser stick/lollipop thingy had been used to switch off the immobiliser (M66), which he said only affects the fuel pump and ignition and is separate to the M99t. When I do this the fuel pump primes but I get no ignition feed at the starter. My question is then, has the immobiliser gone south since the alarm brain came out (I couldn’t disarm it before removal so the alarm was still ‘on’), or do the alarm and immobiliser work together so that one won’t work without the other (which would mean that once my alarm brain is back in the car the immobiliser fault will clear and it’ll start). Any views? Thanks in advance.
You need Carl Baker - car and bike installations - google them
Big Al. said:
Already spoken to him, he is a very long way from me and the car wont start!! He was very helpfull, although essentially he just wanted to put a new system in, which it doesn't need. He's quite a lot more expensive when compared to the guy that's reprogramming my blipper (66% more in fact), and if the immobilser is shot, I can get a new one for £66. SwanJack said:
Thanks, that's what I feared, I guess I'll put the brain back in when i get it and see what happens when i reset it.
Would appreciate any info on what you are doing as i have only one blipper for my car and that isnt the best. What part is the "brain" as you call it and where/who did you send it to. If i read this right you are having 2 new blippers made to operate your existing alarm, is that correct? Any one know where i can get a new meta siren as that is also knackered on my car. All the alarm works etc it sets and unsets will go off etc at any attempt to gain access to the car, its just has no siren.TJC46 said:
Would appreciate any info on what you are doing as i have only one blipper for my car and that isnt the best. What part is the "brain" as you call it and where/who did you send it to. If i read this right you are having 2 new blippers made to operate your existing alarm, is that correct? Any one know where i can get a new meta siren as that is also knackered on my car. All the alarm works etc it sets and unsets will go off etc at any attempt to gain access to the car, its just has no siren.
Since owning the car (11 years)I have only ever had one blipper and no red card that carries the 15 digit code to make up a new one. Last week my luck ran out as the blipper's plastic case, which was already cracked, disintegrated, taking the little black button on the circuit board inside the case, with it. Spoke to Meta who put me in touch with Abacus Alarms in London, who can make up two new blippers provided they have the main alarm box (brain), which lives under the dash, and just unplugs from the alarm loom. In other words the new blippers are coded from the brain and not the 15 digit code. It costs £99 (or £119 if you want the combined key blipper) and takes 48 hrs. They also sell new plastic blipper cases for £15, unfortunately I found this out too late....They will also sort you out with a siren, I think you need a new siren and an adapter cable. The Guy is very helpful and knows how the Meta Alarms were installed by TVR. Edited by SwanJack on Saturday 2nd June 20:03
x works said:
Hi, have you checked for a live feed directly to the starter? Make shure the land rover loop wire block on the loom (above battery) is ok. Also have you fully disconnected the alarm, immobiliser and connection loom then re connected. If you get stuck give us a ring .Heath
There is no live feed to the starter energiser spade connection. The starter is okay as I jumped the spade connection with the main feed and it turned the starter. Not sure what you mean about the land rover loop though. The alarm brain is no longer in there as its gone away for two new blippers to be coded (no red card), do you mean disconnecting the multiplug at the end of the immobliser and then reconnecting? Cheers.SwanJack said:
Already spoken to him, he is a very long way from me and the car wont start!! He was very helpfull, although essentially he just wanted to put a new system in, which it doesn't need. He's quite a lot more expensive when compared to the guy that's reprogramming my blipper (66% more in fact), and if the immobilser is shot, I can get a new one for £66.
He may know a tad more than you do about them.Wouldn't trust anyone else with the alarm system on our TVR's and I don't think he's expensive. Possibly the only person I've never seen negative comments about, other than yourself.
FFG
SwanJack said:
He was very helpfull, although essentially he just wanted to put a new system in, which it doesn't need. He's quite a lot more expensive when compared to the guy that's reprogramming my blipper (66% more in fact), and if the immobilser is shot, I can get a new one for £66.
There are often situations when starting with a new alarm system is the best route to take, it isn't always a sales pitch.As a DIY person you have the option to fix things as you see fit, if it goes wrong again and lets you down, your problem.
Someone doing this professionally cannot do that because when a CAT1 install goes wrong the car doesn't move, his problem.
The knowledge Carl has on TVR electrics has taken time and money to gain and that, not unreasonably, has to be paid for.
FlipFlopGriff said:
He may know a tad more than you do about them.
Wouldn't trust anyone else with the alarm system on our TVR's and I don't think he's expensive. Possibly the only person I've never seen negative comments about, other than yourself.
FFG
I dont think i have said anything negative, in fact if you would care re-read my post I said how helpfull he was. I would say that if someone is charging £166 and another is doing the same service for £99 then one is more expensive than the other. At no time did I say that I knew more about the alarm than him and my post doesn't suggest it. I disagreed with the fact that he pushed for a new alarm was needed without seeing the car, i'll stand by my decision (made after talking to others and a bit of research) that it doesnt need a whole new system and take it from there. Wouldn't trust anyone else with the alarm system on our TVR's and I don't think he's expensive. Possibly the only person I've never seen negative comments about, other than yourself.
FFG
Edited by SwanJack on Monday 4th June 11:07
Edited by SwanJack on Monday 4th June 11:33
SwanJack said:
At no time did I say that I knew more about the alarm than him ................
Based on that, if your unit is off having remotes coded (Sam?) you would do well to get the immobiliser paired at his end and get the two sent back already working together.What is an M66 immobilser BTW, not familiar with it?
Gazzab said:
They are fitted to fiats as well and so aren't as hard as might be thought by some.
The only complicated part is getting the two halves talking to each other, not everyone has the equipment and more importantly the software to do it with when they decide not to.Other than that they are just like any other alarms.
Before I send my Meta ECU off the Abacus, can anyone advise me whether there is a more simple route available?
Similar to the OP I have a Meta36 immobiliser and a Cat2-Cat1 Meta99 upgrade. Both remotes function and are servicable, but appear to have become out of sync with the control unit (three out of range presses on the button can do this, I believe).
I have both remote fobs and the red code card, but the service I am being offered is exactly the same as I would be if I had the alarm control unit and nothing else. For £99 I will get two new fobs programmed to my original ECU, but this seems excessive when theres physically nothing wrong with my original kit.
Similar to the OP I have a Meta36 immobiliser and a Cat2-Cat1 Meta99 upgrade. Both remotes function and are servicable, but appear to have become out of sync with the control unit (three out of range presses on the button can do this, I believe).
I have both remote fobs and the red code card, but the service I am being offered is exactly the same as I would be if I had the alarm control unit and nothing else. For £99 I will get two new fobs programmed to my original ECU, but this seems excessive when theres physically nothing wrong with my original kit.
GC8 said:
Before I send my Meta ECU off the Abacus, can anyone advise me whether there is a more simple route available?
Similar to the OP I have a Meta36 immobiliser and a Cat2-Cat1 Meta99 upgrade. Both remotes function and are servicable, but appear to have become out of sync with the control unit (three out of range presses on the button can do this, I believe).
I have both remote fobs and the red code card, but the service I am being offered is exactly the same as I would be if I had the alarm control unit and nothing else. For £99 I will get two new fobs programmed to my original ECU, but this seems excessive when theres physically nothing wrong with my original kit.
Not really sure what difficulties your having. Are you saying that the fobs wont turn off the alarm i.e open the doors and deactivate the sensor? or are you saying that the fob wont turn off the immobiliser when you press the button with the ignition just before the ignition barrel's third position. If you were out of range, how would the alarm know the button's being pressed?? From what I can gather if you change the 99 or the 36 separately, then they become out of sync and you need to push the fob and use the immobiliser key to switch both off. I would imagine though that someone like Carl Baker could get overcome this. Similar to the OP I have a Meta36 immobiliser and a Cat2-Cat1 Meta99 upgrade. Both remotes function and are servicable, but appear to have become out of sync with the control unit (three out of range presses on the button can do this, I believe).
I have both remote fobs and the red code card, but the service I am being offered is exactly the same as I would be if I had the alarm control unit and nothing else. For £99 I will get two new fobs programmed to my original ECU, but this seems excessive when theres physically nothing wrong with my original kit.
Abacus has an online forum/message board upon which the owner replies to posted questions.
Edited by SwanJack on Saturday 9th June 21:13
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