Discussion
I've booked the Chim into Leven (once they've shifted Podie's old heap out of the way ;))for a waxoyl before winter sets in.
Three hour slot booked to clean/scrape/dry/apply. A previous well known garage whom I shan't name offered the same job for £80. Glad I didn't go there - what is the point of Waxoyling straight over the old cr@p (no way a proper job for that money).
Makes you wonder about 'Waxoyled' TVRs advertised which have no more protection than abused ones??
Three hour slot booked to clean/scrape/dry/apply. A previous well known garage whom I shan't name offered the same job for £80. Glad I didn't go there - what is the point of Waxoyling straight over the old cr@p (no way a proper job for that money).
Makes you wonder about 'Waxoyled' TVRs advertised which have no more protection than abused ones??
V8 Kieran said:
I've booked the Chim into Leven (once they've shifted Podie's old heap out of the way )for a waxoyl before winter sets in.
Cheeky sod
Grifter - perhaps that's the difference between a specialist and an owner... they have the appropriate equipment and do them regularly... oh and mine's in good nick after having it done a year ago...
Yep probably. Just in the middle of my Chassis prep. Cleaned off the old Waxoyl, which took hours and hours, And half covered in ACT's new 2 pack Epoxy coating. MEssy business but it does dry hard.
Then as I'm not too impressed by Waxoyl as it seems to melt off all of the chassis aside from the rear suspension.
So I am trying Tectyl, which I hope to be better than waxoyl.
If I had the foresight and cash to pay someone, I would. It has taken me a good 3 days or so now and I'm still not done.
Then as I'm not too impressed by Waxoyl as it seems to melt off all of the chassis aside from the rear suspension.
So I am trying Tectyl, which I hope to be better than waxoyl.
If I had the foresight and cash to pay someone, I would. It has taken me a good 3 days or so now and I'm still not done.
griffter said:
To be honest I'd wonder how on earth they can do a half-decent job in 3 hours - but their reputation is good. Owners who do it themselves seem to take 3 weeks or even 3 months (in my case) - but it depends what you find when you scrape...
Thats the reason I had mine done at Austec. 2 day job involving full strip, repaint and wax-oil. Lot more expensive at £295 + VAT but worth it for peace of mind. Thats not to say Leven wouldn't have done a good job but I just wanted to know in my mind it had had proper time and attention spent on the job.
zippee said:
To be honest I'd wonder how on earth they can do a half-decent job in 3 hours - but their reputation is good. Owners who do it themselves seem to take 3 weeks or even 3 months (in my case) - but it depends what you find when you scrape...
Thats the reason I had mine done at Austec. 2 day job involving full strip, repaint and wax-oil. Lot more expensive at £295 + VAT but worth it for peace of mind. Thats not to say Leven wouldn't have done a good job but I just wanted to know in my mind it had had proper time and attention spent on the job.
Picking mine up from Austec tomorrow. I'll take some photos and post...
Nuggs said:
Picking mine up from Austec tomorrow. I'll take some photos and post...
Photos of a waxoyled chassis...!?! I can barely contain my excitement...!!!
Leven cleaned, prepared and waxoyled the chassis on my Chimaera. After a year of being driven in all weathers, covering around 16k miles and living outside, it's still in good condition. I'm happy with the job that was done, and the car seems to be fine as well.
I'm sure if you asked, and paid accordingly Leven would treat the chassis as you see fit...
>> Edited by Podie on Friday 28th October 11:51
sideways mostly said:
dumb question from dumb owner
Do the new cars need treating?
There is no suggestion of it in the owners hand book but then I don't know if there ever was in the Griff hand book either
>> Edited by sideways mostly on Friday 28th October 11:29
YEs. Best to put mesures into practice straight away rather than once the rust has started in.
zippee said:I'd have to agree with the sentiments here. No matter how good their reputation, 3 hours is not going to result in the quality of application you appear to think you'll get. This job takes time, flake removal, cleaning, further flake removal, cleaning, surface prep including wait time, paint including wait time, then you get the waxoil task. Now if it's just waxoil application then 3 hours is probably right but it sounds like you think you're getting all the prep work too.
To be honest I'd wonder how on earth they can do a half-decent job in 3 hours - but their reputation is good. Owners who do it themselves seem to take 3 weeks or even 3 months (in my case) - but it depends what you find when you scrape...
Thats the reason I had mine done at Austec. 2 day job involving full strip, repaint and wax-oil. Lot more expensive at £295 + VAT but worth it for peace of mind. Thats not to say Leven wouldn't have done a good job but I just wanted to know in my mind it had had proper time and attention spent on the job.
V8 Kieran said:Half a day doesn't work though. Any exposed metalwork should be chemically treated and that treatment need curing time. All exposed metal will also need painting and that also needs cure time. Is this half a day spread out over three days? That may work. If it's all complete inside half a day then it's not possible using conventional methods to complete all the steps.
Maybe I shouldn't have been so specific on the time. Leven booked me in for a half-day slot, probably will run over 3 hours, and don't suppose waiting times are charged.
I know Leven have a solid reputation but it would be worth asking how they deal with exposed metal. I'd be interested because waiting for curing time is a pain.
My understanding (or rather assumption) is the fixed fee does not include extra painting work, which no doubt would be extra. I am not expecting this as my chassis is in good nick, but I have the option to leave the car a second day anyway. I'll know the answers next week once it's done.
>> Edited by V8 Kieran on Friday 28th October 13:23
>> Edited by V8 Kieran on Friday 28th October 13:23
Please tell me to shut up if I'm labouring the point too much but I have experience and assuming yours is a 97 car then I would think you are kidding yourself if you think the chassis is OK.
The exposed chassis in the wheel arches and the tops of the outriggers are going to need work even if the car has never been wet. The wheel arch work is easy but the outriggers are a real problem. What happens is little stones get trapped between body and rail and grind through the paint. This is evident on every body lift picture I've seen. From the visible side of the rail all looks OK while out of sight on the top the rail is completely rusted through. To treat the rails with the body on, all stones must be removed and that is a bugger of a job. Then all loose material needs scraping out with a variety of home made scrapers. Some people use a high pressure water jet for this step. Then rust treat with a long bristled brush, paint also with a brush then ease waxoil around the rails with a brush. I found that spraying waxoil was not effective for the outriggers. The body bolting plates are also normally flaky on the exposed side and where they contact the boby. These aren't too much of a problem because they can be removed and replaced with the body in situ.
I'll shut up now.
The exposed chassis in the wheel arches and the tops of the outriggers are going to need work even if the car has never been wet. The wheel arch work is easy but the outriggers are a real problem. What happens is little stones get trapped between body and rail and grind through the paint. This is evident on every body lift picture I've seen. From the visible side of the rail all looks OK while out of sight on the top the rail is completely rusted through. To treat the rails with the body on, all stones must be removed and that is a bugger of a job. Then all loose material needs scraping out with a variety of home made scrapers. Some people use a high pressure water jet for this step. Then rust treat with a long bristled brush, paint also with a brush then ease waxoil around the rails with a brush. I found that spraying waxoil was not effective for the outriggers. The body bolting plates are also normally flaky on the exposed side and where they contact the boby. These aren't too much of a problem because they can be removed and replaced with the body in situ.
I'll shut up now.
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