ACT Chassis Prep Kit
Discussion
As winter is approaching, I decided to go for the chassis prep option of painting, scraping and proofing. I had earlier put one coat of waxoyl on the car just as a preventative measure.
The question was what to use: Hammerite, POR 15, Waxoyl, underseal???
After talking to Tim at ACT hementioned that he was considering launching a chassis prep kit for those of us who like to get down and dirty and do the job ourselves. He graciously allowed me to test the components that may comprise the kit, if launched.
The main ingredients are the paint and the proofer. The paint is a two pack epoxy coating (mine was coloured white/grey) and Tectyl 506 rust proofer.
The main job at had was to get rid of the previous waxoyl and dirt. For this I used a paint brush, a gallon of white spirt, and around 16 hours of my evenings and weekends. Add another 8 or so to scrape down the chassis (luckily I have new wishbones and the chassis was in good conddition with only a little surface rust) and I was ready to go.
The epoxy come in two tubs the paint part and an activator. Without the activator the other part will not dry. You mix it in approximately 3:1 ratio and you're off. It is not as sticky as other one pack paints and you have to apply it sparingly, and as I was doing this on my back it went over me. It goes on easily and leave a good finish. The temperature was around 16 degrees when I was painting and the epoxy was still easy to apply after around an hour. Although after half and hour it had started going a bit jelly like. I found that doing the front of the car, then the back was the easiest way.
The epoxy completes it's cure cycle after 3-4 days after which it is rock solid! I had spilt some on the sidewall of my tyre as it was under the car, and it took quite a bit of effort to get it off. The epoxy also leaves a smooth finish to the chassis, covering up surface rust marks, and adhereing to the non powder coated surface well. As said before my epoxy was a grey/white colour. The best part of the epoxy system is that where you have applied the paint thicker, or you have a few drips it is not like paint where the centre is softer, the thicker parts are just as hard as the thinner parts, the drips being very solid! I tested this by banging the coating with a small hammer and nothing.
After the epoxy there is the proofer. Most use waxoyl and I have for many years, but after the last application of it on the Griff I was less than enthused. The waxoyl all round tmy engine bay and exhaust had completely melted off leaving the chassis dry. As most will know waxoyl needs to be heated to make it liquid and applicable via a spray system. The down side to this is tha TVRs produce a lot of heat and I'm sure that I am not the only owner to be greeted by the smell of waxoyl on a hot day, as it melts off.
The Tectyl is a produst by Valvoline and is labled as:
[quote=Valvoline's Website]
"A water-displacing, solvent cutback, wax base, general purpose, corrosion preventive compound suitable for the widest range of application requirements for vehicle rustproofing, protection of machinery and parts in storage. It protects parts in indoor and outdoor storage as well as domestic and international shipments. 506-WD cures to a dark amber coloured, waxy transparent, firm film."[/quote]
Not totally sure about this I decided to test if temperature made any difference to it, by soaking it in a bucket of hot-boiling water for a while. Not difference. So there was no chance of it melting off at all. To apply it you can use a a brush or a spray system. I used the latter as I am lucky enough to have a compressor and gun, but I am sure it will work well enough through a pressure gun system, such as the one sold for waxoyl.
The smell is certainly nicer than waxoyl, but as with all solvent based product wearing a mask is reccomended.
It goes on very easily and combined with the light colouring of the epoxy it is very easy to see where you have missed or been sparce. Needless to say my out riggers are now a very dark amber colour. Curing time is somewhat longer than waxoyl as it is not temperature dependent and does not cure as soon as it hits cool air. This does mean where you have sprayed on thickly it will take a little longer to dry but it is worth it.
All in all I have to say top marks to ACT and I hope that they do decide to launch the kit, as it looks to be a very effective way of looking after the chassis. :thumbup:
Sadly my digital camera has given up the ghost and I am unable to take pics. :(
The question was what to use: Hammerite, POR 15, Waxoyl, underseal???
After talking to Tim at ACT hementioned that he was considering launching a chassis prep kit for those of us who like to get down and dirty and do the job ourselves. He graciously allowed me to test the components that may comprise the kit, if launched.
The main ingredients are the paint and the proofer. The paint is a two pack epoxy coating (mine was coloured white/grey) and Tectyl 506 rust proofer.
The main job at had was to get rid of the previous waxoyl and dirt. For this I used a paint brush, a gallon of white spirt, and around 16 hours of my evenings and weekends. Add another 8 or so to scrape down the chassis (luckily I have new wishbones and the chassis was in good conddition with only a little surface rust) and I was ready to go.
The epoxy come in two tubs the paint part and an activator. Without the activator the other part will not dry. You mix it in approximately 3:1 ratio and you're off. It is not as sticky as other one pack paints and you have to apply it sparingly, and as I was doing this on my back it went over me. It goes on easily and leave a good finish. The temperature was around 16 degrees when I was painting and the epoxy was still easy to apply after around an hour. Although after half and hour it had started going a bit jelly like. I found that doing the front of the car, then the back was the easiest way.
The epoxy completes it's cure cycle after 3-4 days after which it is rock solid! I had spilt some on the sidewall of my tyre as it was under the car, and it took quite a bit of effort to get it off. The epoxy also leaves a smooth finish to the chassis, covering up surface rust marks, and adhereing to the non powder coated surface well. As said before my epoxy was a grey/white colour. The best part of the epoxy system is that where you have applied the paint thicker, or you have a few drips it is not like paint where the centre is softer, the thicker parts are just as hard as the thinner parts, the drips being very solid! I tested this by banging the coating with a small hammer and nothing.
After the epoxy there is the proofer. Most use waxoyl and I have for many years, but after the last application of it on the Griff I was less than enthused. The waxoyl all round tmy engine bay and exhaust had completely melted off leaving the chassis dry. As most will know waxoyl needs to be heated to make it liquid and applicable via a spray system. The down side to this is tha TVRs produce a lot of heat and I'm sure that I am not the only owner to be greeted by the smell of waxoyl on a hot day, as it melts off.
The Tectyl is a produst by Valvoline and is labled as:
[quote=Valvoline's Website]
"A water-displacing, solvent cutback, wax base, general purpose, corrosion preventive compound suitable for the widest range of application requirements for vehicle rustproofing, protection of machinery and parts in storage. It protects parts in indoor and outdoor storage as well as domestic and international shipments. 506-WD cures to a dark amber coloured, waxy transparent, firm film."[/quote]
Not totally sure about this I decided to test if temperature made any difference to it, by soaking it in a bucket of hot-boiling water for a while. Not difference. So there was no chance of it melting off at all. To apply it you can use a a brush or a spray system. I used the latter as I am lucky enough to have a compressor and gun, but I am sure it will work well enough through a pressure gun system, such as the one sold for waxoyl.
The smell is certainly nicer than waxoyl, but as with all solvent based product wearing a mask is reccomended.
It goes on very easily and combined with the light colouring of the epoxy it is very easy to see where you have missed or been sparce. Needless to say my out riggers are now a very dark amber colour. Curing time is somewhat longer than waxoyl as it is not temperature dependent and does not cure as soon as it hits cool air. This does mean where you have sprayed on thickly it will take a little longer to dry but it is worth it.
All in all I have to say top marks to ACT and I hope that they do decide to launch the kit, as it looks to be a very effective way of looking after the chassis. :thumbup:
Sadly my digital camera has given up the ghost and I am unable to take pics. :(
Chris
Nice review - some good products there.. I'd be interested in a kit if it was sold. It would save me having to but it all individually.
FRosts sell the POR15..
www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp?catID=55
Nice review - some good products there.. I'd be interested in a kit if it was sold. It would save me having to but it all individually.
FRosts sell the POR15..
www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp?catID=55
At this stage we are just looking into the possiblity of producing a kit, my chassis has been painted with this epoxy coating and i wanted to let somebody else trial it, thanks Wildfire, if we do produce it i'll let you do the press release 
The epopxy is used for under water industrial applications the spec is OTT, not as straight forward to apply as POR15 as it needs mixing and therefore has a pot life, i've heard good reports about POR15 but if we produce a kit we'll still use the 2 pack epoxy.
The epopxy is used for under water industrial applications the spec is OTT, not as straight forward to apply as POR15 as it needs mixing and therefore has a pot life, i've heard good reports about POR15 but if we produce a kit we'll still use the 2 pack epoxy.
jon h said:
Just started cleaning my chassis down for a POR15 treatment... half done and about 10 hours in so far! Whilst on the subject, does anyone know if it can be applied OK over sound powder coat (with a bit of flatting off) or does every little bit need to come off.
Jon H
Bump!
good Q&A on here
http://prp-porshop.com/porstordosan.html
seems a bit pointless to paint on rubbed down powder coat as it is not getting to the metal to adhere ,if you want to match the colour get some por15 primer which will allow to top paint with anything
>> Edited by spivvy on Monday 21st November 13:52
http://prp-porshop.com/porstordosan.html
seems a bit pointless to paint on rubbed down powder coat as it is not getting to the metal to adhere ,if you want to match the colour get some por15 primer which will allow to top paint with anything
>> Edited by spivvy on Monday 21st November 13:52
As POR15 has such a good reputation with Pistonhead members, I need to consider this aswell, no cheaper than epoxy but easier to apply, i must try some.
If the original powder coating is intact and not pitted or lifting there won't be any rust underneath so not essential to paint over with anything except to make it look uniform, if you do paint with POR15 it won't stop the powder coating from lifting off the chassis later, all we are doing is sealing the metal from oxygen & moisture, i would still recommend waxing the chassis after the paint has cured, try to use industrial products as they stay on during the hot weather.
If the original powder coating is intact and not pitted or lifting there won't be any rust underneath so not essential to paint over with anything except to make it look uniform, if you do paint with POR15 it won't stop the powder coating from lifting off the chassis later, all we are doing is sealing the metal from oxygen & moisture, i would still recommend waxing the chassis after the paint has cured, try to use industrial products as they stay on during the hot weather.
cerby4.5 said:
POR 15 is all that is required! Easy to apply, and really hard wearing. My Chim's chassis/underside has never been better!! Why make things complicated when this does it all!!
Because I wanted to try somthing different. Also compred to the Tectyl I don't rate the Waxoyl at all.
Tim, Are you the distributer for Tectyl? I have just been on their website, but cannot I find an English distributer, altho I am sure there is one.....
Also, if I wanted ultimate rust protection, but also wanted to avoid anything 2 pack, how does POR 15 with a coat of Tectyl 506 WD over the top of it sound?
Also, if I wanted ultimate rust protection, but also wanted to avoid anything 2 pack, how does POR 15 with a coat of Tectyl 506 WD over the top of it sound?
BIG DUNC said:
Tim, Are you the distributer for Tectyl? I have just been on their website, but cannot I find an English distributer, altho I am sure there is one.....
Also, if I wanted ultimate rust protection, but also wanted to avoid anything 2 pack, how does POR 15 with a coat of Tectyl 506 WD over the top of it sound?
Yes i will be able distibute the stuff, but don't at present.
POR15 with 506WD over sounds ideal , I think the 2 pack epoxy will be more appropriate for total restoration jobs.
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