Im looking for advice on a TVR
Discussion
Hi all, its been a longe time since ive been on hear, ive been working away for some time.
Well im thinking of getting a TVR 420 SEAC
1988 with about 50,000 miles on the clock and a lot of TVR history,
What im looking for is a lot of advice on its good points, bad points and prices to by.
It the chassis any thing to worry about for its age or the suspention bushes, CV's and if any one has a phone number I can call to talk to some one about this model. I have a lot of knowledge on cars and you can find a lot on line but im looking for a more indepth look into this kind of car,if you can help me that would be grate and if I do decide to get the car ill have to come south and show it off.
Im going to give the guy that owns the car a call tomorrow and if i can learn a bit more befor then its going to be a bonice.
One again thanks to you all for you assistance.
Campbell
Well im thinking of getting a TVR 420 SEAC
1988 with about 50,000 miles on the clock and a lot of TVR history, What im looking for is a lot of advice on its good points, bad points and prices to by.
It the chassis any thing to worry about for its age or the suspention bushes, CV's and if any one has a phone number I can call to talk to some one about this model. I have a lot of knowledge on cars and you can find a lot on line but im looking for a more indepth look into this kind of car,if you can help me that would be grate and if I do decide to get the car ill have to come south and show it off.
Im going to give the guy that owns the car a call tomorrow and if i can learn a bit more befor then its going to be a bonice.
One again thanks to you all for you assistance.
Campbell
Defo give the chassis a look especially round the outriggers.
A few threads worth reading
http://213.52.163.118/gassing/topic.asp?t=41044&f=12&h=0&hw
http://213.52.163.118/gassing/topic.asp?t=31977&f=12&h=0&hw
http://213.52.163.118/gassing/topic.asp?t=11508&f=12&h=0&hw
http://213.52.163.118/gassing/topic.asp?t=3099&f=12&h=0&hw
HTH
Mrs fish you dam well confussled me (but thats not hard)
A few threads worth reading
http://213.52.163.118/gassing/topic.asp?t=41044&f=12&h=0&hw
http://213.52.163.118/gassing/topic.asp?t=31977&f=12&h=0&hw
http://213.52.163.118/gassing/topic.asp?t=11508&f=12&h=0&hw
http://213.52.163.118/gassing/topic.asp?t=3099&f=12&h=0&hw
HTH
Mrs fish you dam well confussled me (but thats not hard)
Campbell as Jeff sais (JMorgan) - Pose this question on the Wedge Forum for maximum impact and Stainless, me, Nacnud, Rev-erand, etc who're all SEAC owners will input. Best bet is to enlist an input from 2 Sheds (Tim Lamont of ACT)as he's probably the best person on the planet to advise on SEAC's (Wedge/Tiv Forum or his numbers in the club magazine), he helped me when I recently bought my 1987 420 SEAC.
Early to late SEAC's vary a little in spec of chassis (fully adjustable v's std bushes, GRP v's part kevlar body and some of the engine spec's varied a little and some had Poly V FEAD's, etc, etc, etc.
GB
PS: To the "check the cambelt guy" - I guess you were joking as the SEAC is a pushrod V8 which has a Camchain and the cam normally goes well before the chain
Early to late SEAC's vary a little in spec of chassis (fully adjustable v's std bushes, GRP v's part kevlar body and some of the engine spec's varied a little and some had Poly V FEAD's, etc, etc, etc.
GB
PS: To the "check the cambelt guy" - I guess you were joking as the SEAC is a pushrod V8 which has a Camchain and the cam normally goes well before the chain
Well - I treat them like all car's.
Is it in your budget. Seac's can range from 8~16K.
I personally believe condition is everything. It
normally cost's much more to put something right than
you can knock off the asking price.
HPI check - get one done.
Is the body work straight - no accident damage.
Interior - if it's in bad condition it will cost
a fortune to put right !
Mechanical items - most Rover V8's give no trouble
for 80K miles - after that there can be big bill's
ahead. The engine is basic - just the usual checks.
Rear driveshaft UJ's are prone to wear - check for
free play.
Chassis - check outriggers (tap with screw driver) should hear ring rather that a thud (suggests rust).
Also check area near rear wheel and axle.
Check all electrical items work.
The best bit - the road test !
Now never ever test with the roof off - it's tempting
but don't do it - how would you know if the axle / gear box was noisy !
Don't hold gear lever - just in case it pops out
of gear. Does it accelerate & brake properly.
Paper work - do details match car, correct owners address, history good etc.. if paper work not present
and milage is low - always suspect clocking.
Make a mental note of items to fix and then use that
to arrive at correct price.
Walk away if at any point it does not seem right.
Hope that helps.
Is it in your budget. Seac's can range from 8~16K.
I personally believe condition is everything. It
normally cost's much more to put something right than
you can knock off the asking price.
HPI check - get one done.
Is the body work straight - no accident damage.
Interior - if it's in bad condition it will cost
a fortune to put right !
Mechanical items - most Rover V8's give no trouble
for 80K miles - after that there can be big bill's
ahead. The engine is basic - just the usual checks.
Rear driveshaft UJ's are prone to wear - check for
free play.
Chassis - check outriggers (tap with screw driver) should hear ring rather that a thud (suggests rust).
Also check area near rear wheel and axle.
Check all electrical items work.
The best bit - the road test !
Now never ever test with the roof off - it's tempting
but don't do it - how would you know if the axle / gear box was noisy !
Don't hold gear lever - just in case it pops out
of gear. Does it accelerate & brake properly.
Paper work - do details match car, correct owners address, history good etc.. if paper work not present
and milage is low - always suspect clocking.
Make a mental note of items to fix and then use that
to arrive at correct price.
Walk away if at any point it does not seem right.
Hope that helps.
Rev has said it all.
I test drove before looking around and by the time we got back I wanted the car so badly that I didn't look properly. If you want to see the saga that unfolded a year later go to www.tvrcc-bristol.co.uk and look for "Duncan's Restoration Drama" in the Members Page.
I test drove before looking around and by the time we got back I wanted the car so badly that I didn't look properly. If you want to see the saga that unfolded a year later go to www.tvrcc-bristol.co.uk and look for "Duncan's Restoration Drama" in the Members Page.
Campbell it looks like most of the guys have found you here. Rev's points are spot on. The rules for buying a SEAC are essentially the same as any Wedge dialled in with the usual second hand car common sense. Wedges can rust on the chassis and can have a few foibles but Rev's hit the nail on the head and do read Duncan (Nacnud's) stuff (enlightening). Tim will give you the low down on some of the SEAC variations,look out points, etc. (Full Aramid (few), Part Aramid, GRP, Adjustable chassis/suspension, etc). The engines had a general spec but some owners could spec different things here, especially on the 420's (TVR were flexible). The key that all the guys say is check the car BEFORE you drive it as once in it the TVR rose tinted glasses go on - your hooked. I did this when I bought my 400 - doh. When I found the SEAC I thought it was tatty/in need of TLC so I walked away but then I did some further research. (talked to the TVRCC, Tim, original owner, the dealers on the log book, etc, etc) Once I had the history things looked better. The car needed some work but was mechanically and chassis sound so based on the proce I went for it. By the time it's sorted it'll be in the 5 figure SEAC price band again.
Let us know on the Wedge forum how you get on.
GB
Let us know on the Wedge forum how you get on.
GB
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good to see you back mate, oh yes and I know FA about wedges.
please dont bin me 


