Wobbly Mercedes ML164
Discussion
Just get it checked, get the bits that are worn replaced, doubt the whole suspension will need replacing. Will likely be a couple of worn components that are making it feel vague.
So make sure you know what bits are worn, replace those and see how it is, a full refresh of shocks, ball joints, arms, top mounts, bushes, springs etc is a big and expensive job when it may just be a couple of track rod ends, dampers and it needs alignment.
So make sure you know what bits are worn, replace those and see how it is, a full refresh of shocks, ball joints, arms, top mounts, bushes, springs etc is a big and expensive job when it may just be a couple of track rod ends, dampers and it needs alignment.
“Crashy” sounds like springs- last time I had them replaced the garage used pattern springs and not genuine mercedes ones at a saving of about £20 a spring. I’d have told them to put genuine ones on had they asked me- anyway a little over 12 months later and the car became “crashy” over potholes- springs had become “coil bound” and a new set of genuine springs and bushes and it was back to a comfortable cruiser.
... that super helpful too! R.Hi E-bmw, no I don't run run-flats. I have Conti Sport-Contact 5's on 20-inch Rims.
I had Pirellis on there before and same problem. I have to change the fronts very soon
so I am going to try Michelins with the herring-bone pattern so see if that helps with the
tramlining.
But first I am going to look at the suspension as per the advice I've been given. R.
I had Pirellis on there before and same problem. I have to change the fronts very soon
so I am going to try Michelins with the herring-bone pattern so see if that helps with the
tramlining.
But first I am going to look at the suspension as per the advice I've been given. R.
It can be interesting and illuminating to follow your problem car in another vehicle and watch how it behaves over sections of road which trouble it.
Worn shockers and other suspension/alignment faults can sometimes be clearly seen doing this, its not always easy relying on bounce tests etc unless you've got a well trained elephant which is the sort of weight you need to get a bounce check established stationary on a sizeable 4x4 or van.
Another handy check is when driving on a wet road run the left or right wheels along a continuous white line, the lesser grip of the road paint can provide some interesting 'pulling' as the vehicle tries to veer one way or another.
My money is on bushing going soft or possible ball joint seizing, as suspension compresses and friction comes into play as speed rises soft bushes allow alignments to get far out man, that nicely set toe in can easily become a large toe out when tyre drag and other friction forces climb.
Don't forget the rear end when checking.
Worn shockers and other suspension/alignment faults can sometimes be clearly seen doing this, its not always easy relying on bounce tests etc unless you've got a well trained elephant which is the sort of weight you need to get a bounce check established stationary on a sizeable 4x4 or van.
Another handy check is when driving on a wet road run the left or right wheels along a continuous white line, the lesser grip of the road paint can provide some interesting 'pulling' as the vehicle tries to veer one way or another.
My money is on bushing going soft or possible ball joint seizing, as suspension compresses and friction comes into play as speed rises soft bushes allow alignments to get far out man, that nicely set toe in can easily become a large toe out when tyre drag and other friction forces climb.
Don't forget the rear end when checking.
Edited by Smint on Friday 9th February 15:21
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