Need help with a MOPAR starting issue
Discussion
Well......heres an update.
Anthlon - yes,to no avail.
Have now Tried bypassing the loom - nothing. Tried adding an extra earth to the ecu - again,nothing. Checked gap between pick-up and reductor - perfect (.008 of an inch) and functioning well within tollerance. All connections on the bulkhead are spot on to the ballast,ecu and everwhere else under the bonnet and at the bulkhead connect. Voltage is correct at all points under the bonnet. Tried bypassing ballast (nothing), tried another new ecu......its rediculous.
There is no add-on ign cut off switches or any sort of added kill switches on the car.
Its mad. It cranks great,only gives a single spark on initial turn of the key and then nothing until you release it from cranking and then it gives a residual spark. The voltage regulator was changed not long before the prob started and im wondering if its fried something either on the dash (ammeter) or the second stage of the ignition system dash side (apart from its reading right at the ballast) .........whatever it is, Its now becoming rather frustrating.
Anthlon - yes,to no avail.
Have now Tried bypassing the loom - nothing. Tried adding an extra earth to the ecu - again,nothing. Checked gap between pick-up and reductor - perfect (.008 of an inch) and functioning well within tollerance. All connections on the bulkhead are spot on to the ballast,ecu and everwhere else under the bonnet and at the bulkhead connect. Voltage is correct at all points under the bonnet. Tried bypassing ballast (nothing), tried another new ecu......its rediculous.
There is no add-on ign cut off switches or any sort of added kill switches on the car.
Its mad. It cranks great,only gives a single spark on initial turn of the key and then nothing until you release it from cranking and then it gives a residual spark. The voltage regulator was changed not long before the prob started and im wondering if its fried something either on the dash (ammeter) or the second stage of the ignition system dash side (apart from its reading right at the ballast) .........whatever it is, Its now becoming rather frustrating.
Well......heres an update.
Anthlon - yes,to no avail.
Have now Tried bypassing the loom - nothing. Tried adding an extra earth to the ecu - again,nothing. Checked gap between pick-up and reductor - perfect (.008 of an inch) and functioning well within tollerance. All connections on the bulkhead are spot on to the ballast,ecu and everwhere else under the bonnet and at the bulkhead connect. Voltage is correct at all points under the bonnet. Tried bypassing ballast (nothing), tried another new ecu......its rediculous.
There is no add-on ign cut off switches or any sort of added kill switches on the car.
Its mad. It cranks great,only gives a single spark on initial turn of the key and then nothing until you release it from cranking and then it gives a residual spark. The voltage regulator was changed not long before the prob started and im wondering if its fried something either on the dash (ammeter) or the second stage of the ignition system dash side (apart from its reading right at the ballast) .........whatever it is, Its now becoming rather frustrating.
Anthlon - yes,to no avail.
Have now Tried bypassing the loom - nothing. Tried adding an extra earth to the ecu - again,nothing. Checked gap between pick-up and reductor - perfect (.008 of an inch) and functioning well within tollerance. All connections on the bulkhead are spot on to the ballast,ecu and everwhere else under the bonnet and at the bulkhead connect. Voltage is correct at all points under the bonnet. Tried bypassing ballast (nothing), tried another new ecu......its rediculous.
There is no add-on ign cut off switches or any sort of added kill switches on the car.
Its mad. It cranks great,only gives a single spark on initial turn of the key and then nothing until you release it from cranking and then it gives a residual spark. The voltage regulator was changed not long before the prob started and im wondering if its fried something either on the dash (ammeter) or the second stage of the ignition system dash side (apart from its reading right at the ballast) .........whatever it is, Its now becoming rather frustrating.
This is a long shot assuming you have spark and fuel, but the stock timing gear is nylon plastic coated on the cam gear and when they get some miles on, start to shed teeth. It could well be that the timing chain has jumped a tooth or two, in which case.... Just a thought, good luck.
Could it be the ignition switch not providing any nimble amps to the ignition circuit when you turn it (against he spring) to the "start" position?
- Switch ignition on, and coil is primed.
- Turn key to "start", engine rotates, coil discharges once - hence initial spark.
- No leccy to coil whilst key in "start" position.
- Release key, coil gets a burst of leccy as engine slows to halt giving a residual spark.
Paul
- Switch ignition on, and coil is primed.
- Turn key to "start", engine rotates, coil discharges once - hence initial spark.
- No leccy to coil whilst key in "start" position.
- Release key, coil gets a burst of leccy as engine slows to halt giving a residual spark.
Paul
I have the 383 in my Interceptor and the Mopar ECU is a known weak spot..but you've replaced with 2 units now, so Id suggest that its not that (unless you are really unlucky).
First of all...are you 100% sure you have the CORRECT supply 12v wire?
The symptoms you describe are that you have the system hooked up to a feed that registers 12V then goes cold when cranking, then comes live after releasing the key (hence the spark after you stop cranking)
I had this originally on mine as the PO had cabled it into one of the supplies that did this (cant remember exactly which one), so when cranking the module was effectively dead. As soon as you released the key, it jumped back to 12V and tried to start with a sort of shudder.
You need to get a mate to crank the car over with someone on a multimeter checking the voltages to the module. Its also worth checking the starter solenoid/relay as they also play a part in supply to the module.
Hope it helps a little..
First of all...are you 100% sure you have the CORRECT supply 12v wire?
The symptoms you describe are that you have the system hooked up to a feed that registers 12V then goes cold when cranking, then comes live after releasing the key (hence the spark after you stop cranking)
I had this originally on mine as the PO had cabled it into one of the supplies that did this (cant remember exactly which one), so when cranking the module was effectively dead. As soon as you released the key, it jumped back to 12V and tried to start with a sort of shudder.
You need to get a mate to crank the car over with someone on a multimeter checking the voltages to the module. Its also worth checking the starter solenoid/relay as they also play a part in supply to the module.
Hope it helps a little..
Edited by misterp on Wednesday 18th May 04:39
Edited by misterp on Wednesday 18th May 04:40
I have had exactly this problem with a duff ignition switch. Symptoms were ignition switch to 'ON' gave 12V to coil and spark when activating points manually etc. but as soon as you turned ignition switch to 'START' it would give one fire (as the coil discharged on first breaking of points).... then nothing..... churn, churn, churn.... then sometimes a fire as you released the key back to 'ON' (as the ignition circuit re-energised and fired a spark from the residual engine rotation).
It turned out the ignition switch had failed internally and was cutting 12V from the ignition circuit when the starter circuit was energised - it took some head scratching to find it and a hot-wiring of the ignition direct off the battery.
It turned out the ignition switch had failed internally and was cutting 12V from the ignition circuit when the starter circuit was energised - it took some head scratching to find it and a hot-wiring of the ignition direct off the battery.
IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!
Found the problem after testing every ruddy piece of wiring,connections,etc......
It was the main battery earthing clamp that wasnt fully gripping the battery neg terminal,even tho it was done up fully. it had been split by a local garage when it went for new brake lines.
An earth was added to the original earth terminal on the battery (as this was the only place that we hadnt tried),turned her over and she fired into life. As you can imagine,after all the work we have done trying to find the problem and replacing and re-gapping everything we could think that could be causing the problem the car ticks over like a purring kitten (well...a purring lion) and you can balance a coin on the airbox.
We took it out for a test drive and at no point did the smiles leave our faces - it cruised around southend without any effort and when you floored the throttle it shot off like a scalded moggy. Im still smiling now and ive been in for 20 mins 🙂 (altho admitting it was the main earth that was the prob does make both me and my bro-in-law feel like bellends,if it can fool auto sparkies then i guess it isnt that bad).
Thanks everyone for your input. It was alot of help and gratefully recieved.
Found the problem after testing every ruddy piece of wiring,connections,etc......
It was the main battery earthing clamp that wasnt fully gripping the battery neg terminal,even tho it was done up fully. it had been split by a local garage when it went for new brake lines.
An earth was added to the original earth terminal on the battery (as this was the only place that we hadnt tried),turned her over and she fired into life. As you can imagine,after all the work we have done trying to find the problem and replacing and re-gapping everything we could think that could be causing the problem the car ticks over like a purring kitten (well...a purring lion) and you can balance a coin on the airbox.
We took it out for a test drive and at no point did the smiles leave our faces - it cruised around southend without any effort and when you floored the throttle it shot off like a scalded moggy. Im still smiling now and ive been in for 20 mins 🙂 (altho admitting it was the main earth that was the prob does make both me and my bro-in-law feel like bellends,if it can fool auto sparkies then i guess it isnt that bad).
Thanks everyone for your input. It was alot of help and gratefully recieved.
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