E30 325i Convertible Advice
Discussion
Could well have the chance of a H reg 325i Convertible Manual, full leather trim, manual hood, BBS Cross Spokes, unabused, just as it left the factory in terms of spec. last owner since mid 90's. with 90k on it at a very attractive price should just require a large amount of elbow grease and a new rear screen stitched in to make a very presentable car.
Any problem areas to look out for (bodily and mechanically) cars just had 12mths MOT put on it for what its worth
also
Insurance, car is 15yrs old in Sept. will this cause a problem now regards getting classic car insurance on it as it is not quite 15yrs? Any recommendations and what sort off figure we looking at? (currently use footman james for a classic policy on my 91 Elan and pay £320 for 4.5k pa)
Any problem areas to look out for (bodily and mechanically) cars just had 12mths MOT put on it for what its worth
also
Insurance, car is 15yrs old in Sept. will this cause a problem now regards getting classic car insurance on it as it is not quite 15yrs? Any recommendations and what sort off figure we looking at? (currently use footman james for a classic policy on my 91 Elan and pay £320 for 4.5k pa)
Mustard,
Mechanically-test for low compression. The M20 cast iron block is very good for wear, and I've stripped down engines that have covered 120,000 plus miles and STILL have the original honing marks.
If there is "mayonase" in the expansion tank- it may NOT be a cylinder head gasket, but a cracked cylinder head- MUCH more expensive. Some M20 325i E30 motors had porous head castings from the factory. The 325i cylinder head casting is supposed to be worse in this respect, but if it's survived this long and been looked after it should be ok.
Check for cam wear, listen for a clattery top end (which could also merely just be tappets in need of adjustment). Take the oil filler cap off and run your finger nail along one of the cam lobes to check for excessive wear.
Check for the usual blue smoke from the exhaust on over run. This is usually simply down to hardened valve guide seals, rather then valve guide wear itself.
Bodywork wise, e30s rust along the wheel arches ( the rears mainly) and along the sills and the rear panel. Check the boot floor also, as the wheel well can gather water (especially if the boot seal has gone).
Semi trailing arm carrier bushes wear on the rear (located under the car near the rear seat) and you can hear them, on lift off. The strut bump stops at the rear also go-given away by bumping over bumps and speed humps. Semi trailing arm carrier bushes are not as straight forward to do as the earlier E21s and require a special drive to push them out.
Check for excessive play in the front wheels (often also evident on braking) - can signal front lower arm bushes- I've been told that you have to replace the whole arm rather than just the bushes- which could be costly.
Hope this helps.
Mechanically-test for low compression. The M20 cast iron block is very good for wear, and I've stripped down engines that have covered 120,000 plus miles and STILL have the original honing marks.
If there is "mayonase" in the expansion tank- it may NOT be a cylinder head gasket, but a cracked cylinder head- MUCH more expensive. Some M20 325i E30 motors had porous head castings from the factory. The 325i cylinder head casting is supposed to be worse in this respect, but if it's survived this long and been looked after it should be ok.
Check for cam wear, listen for a clattery top end (which could also merely just be tappets in need of adjustment). Take the oil filler cap off and run your finger nail along one of the cam lobes to check for excessive wear.
Check for the usual blue smoke from the exhaust on over run. This is usually simply down to hardened valve guide seals, rather then valve guide wear itself.
Bodywork wise, e30s rust along the wheel arches ( the rears mainly) and along the sills and the rear panel. Check the boot floor also, as the wheel well can gather water (especially if the boot seal has gone).
Semi trailing arm carrier bushes wear on the rear (located under the car near the rear seat) and you can hear them, on lift off. The strut bump stops at the rear also go-given away by bumping over bumps and speed humps. Semi trailing arm carrier bushes are not as straight forward to do as the earlier E21s and require a special drive to push them out.
Check for excessive play in the front wheels (often also evident on braking) - can signal front lower arm bushes- I've been told that you have to replace the whole arm rather than just the bushes- which could be costly.
Hope this helps.
Check what Marquis Rex said, and I'd add find out how long ago the cam belt was changed, this needs doing at least every 60K miles and I would suggest 40K. It's not a difficult job if you are decent at DIY. But if the belt breaks so do your valves, this can't be ignored.
The steering racks also tend to leak if stressed.
I don't know if you stated, but the 5-speed is much more desirable than the automatic. BMW autoboxes are not that good, tend to fail at around 120K miles and rebuilt ones are pricy.
These are good cars, I really like E30's. If it's not rusty buy it. You can fix it up and keep it or sell for a profit, unless it's been hit or is rusty you won't likely go wrong.
The steering racks also tend to leak if stressed.
I don't know if you stated, but the 5-speed is much more desirable than the automatic. BMW autoboxes are not that good, tend to fail at around 120K miles and rebuilt ones are pricy.
These are good cars, I really like E30's. If it's not rusty buy it. You can fix it up and keep it or sell for a profit, unless it's been hit or is rusty you won't likely go wrong.
Well Dads got a new toy!
Car is a manual and is coming up beautifully, it has a BMW service history till 2001/77k (now done 88k) virtually all the old MOT's bar the very 1st two
CAM belt was last changed in Sept 2002/81k
Other than a Janspeed rear back box car is as original as you could wish for (this is going to be replaced with an OE spec one)
Very slight play in front steering but nothing to worry about, michellin tyres all the way round...this cars had a good home!
Sort some pictures tomorrow, the E30 Cabriolet is a lovely pure shape, this car looks pure class!
Car is a manual and is coming up beautifully, it has a BMW service history till 2001/77k (now done 88k) virtually all the old MOT's bar the very 1st two
CAM belt was last changed in Sept 2002/81k
Other than a Janspeed rear back box car is as original as you could wish for (this is going to be replaced with an OE spec one)
Very slight play in front steering but nothing to worry about, michellin tyres all the way round...this cars had a good home!
Sort some pictures tomorrow, the E30 Cabriolet is a lovely pure shape, this car looks pure class!
Nooooo, Dads smitten with it!
Think hes even gonna clear the garage out for the winter! LOL
He loved his E30 318i Touring years ago (been a BMW convert ever since)... memories flooding back especially as this one has 6 cylinders and a convertble roof!
>> Edited by mustard on Thursday 21st July 22:27
Think hes even gonna clear the garage out for the winter! LOL
He loved his E30 318i Touring years ago (been a BMW convert ever since)... memories flooding back especially as this one has 6 cylinders and a convertble roof!
>> Edited by mustard on Thursday 21st July 22:27
Well bought, I would think. Photo is dark, but it does look like a good car, one you could keep.
Forgot to mention, you want to use genuine BMW antifreeze or the GO-5 brown Zerex if you just won't/can't get the gennie stuff, otherwise corrosion and waterpump failure problems, when you do the cam belt next you will want to have a water pump and a cam belt tensioner on hand, this is not a hard DIY job so don't let it intimidate you.
It's harder to find a good 325i/iS/iC than M3 anymore.
Forgot to mention, you want to use genuine BMW antifreeze or the GO-5 brown Zerex if you just won't/can't get the gennie stuff, otherwise corrosion and waterpump failure problems, when you do the cam belt next you will want to have a water pump and a cam belt tensioner on hand, this is not a hard DIY job so don't let it intimidate you.
It's harder to find a good 325i/iS/iC than M3 anymore.
Dont the 15" BBS Cross Spokes look sooo right 
just got to get rid of that exhaust back box and replace with a standard one.Love E30's had a 316 for 8 years and now had a 325i touring for 3 years
Your car looks very clean
Lots of cars being broken on the Zone www.e30zone.co.uk if you are looking for a secondhand original exhaust
Your car looks very clean
Lots of cars being broken on the Zone www.e30zone.co.uk if you are looking for a secondhand original exhaust
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