1:250 Scale Paper Model: Multi-Purpose Vessel "Mellum"
Discussion
shortar53 said:
dr_gn said:
How on earth do you form part 102 c into a tube?I'm trying with limited success, have just ordered the Sea Shepherd + lasercut details to have a play with (late christmas present), but when it comes to cylinders <1mm in diameter, I can't manage it with these fat fingers
I'm thinking of making a clear perspex jig - basically a load of different sized holes to stick the tubes in to apply the glue. That would get around the peeling issue, but would probably result in the finished tube being stuck in the jig. A split jig would be ideal I guess.
vtecsilver said:
Could you insert the ends of the paper tube inside some rubber or metal washers to hold it in place while applying the glue inside?
Maybe apply the glue just to the middle, when it dries, remove the washers on the ends and glue the ends - should prevent the washers being glued to the paper tube.
Whatever the external jig is, it needs to be transparent material so you can see you've got a perfect join line before applying glue.Maybe apply the glue just to the middle, when it dries, remove the washers on the ends and glue the ends - should prevent the washers being glued to the paper tube.
The end is in sight - I think. You never know with this one.
The lifeboats (which I completed last March!) and derriks fitted, they still need cables attaching, and a few other bits adding to the jibs. Also fitted the life raft pods and launch rails:
Foredeck pretty much done, mast stil needs lamps attaching:
Final two ladders completed and fitted:
The RIB and a few bits of furniture added to the rear deck and bridge roof:
The lifeboats (which I completed last March!) and derriks fitted, they still need cables attaching, and a few other bits adding to the jibs. Also fitted the life raft pods and launch rails:
Foredeck pretty much done, mast stil needs lamps attaching:
Final two ladders completed and fitted:
The RIB and a few bits of furniture added to the rear deck and bridge roof:
Thanks for the encouragment Final push to get it done...
Not the best picture, but foremast completed with navigation lights, and a small lamp near the base.
Just needs an antenna adding to the top, and the rigging.
Forgot to post this yesterday:
One disadvantage of laser-cut parts is that there is no printing on them. I tried to duplicate it on these lifeboat derricks before fitting.
Not the best picture, but foremast completed with navigation lights, and a small lamp near the base.
Just needs an antenna adding to the top, and the rigging.
Forgot to post this yesterday:
One disadvantage of laser-cut parts is that there is no printing on them. I tried to duplicate it on these lifeboat derricks before fitting.
RacingPete said:
dr_gn said:
It's 290 mm long.
Ta.
You sure you are not just really far away from it? Looks from the photos and detail on it that it should be 1 metre long. Ta.
perdu said:
Now I know it can go to Huddy
It looks bl**dy good dr_gn, I would love to see it at the show, no doubt taking accolades there too
Finishing it with lots of time to go too
I love how you turned flat 'thingies' into water cannon, excellent
Thanks! there's a lot still to do though believe it or not.It looks bl**dy good dr_gn, I would love to see it at the show, no doubt taking accolades there too
Finishing it with lots of time to go too
I love how you turned flat 'thingies' into water cannon, excellent
The rear deck has taken quite a beating over the months, with various things being dropped on it, and it being a bit wrinkled from the PVA. Problem was, the three containers that sit on it looked terrible with all their top faces being out of parallel with the deck and each other. I've tried to solve this by attaching them to a flat steel rule (which also acted as a spacing guide), and blobbing pva under each one:
Then upturning them and lining them up on deck, with a pair of wood strips as guides to get them more or less central longitudinally, and a cocktail stick as a sight to get them parallel to the deck:
Once set, it seemed to work pretty well. Of course the gaps at the bases are not uniform, but it's not half as noticable as the top surfaces being off:
Then upturning them and lining them up on deck, with a pair of wood strips as guides to get them more or less central longitudinally, and a cocktail stick as a sight to get them parallel to the deck:
Once set, it seemed to work pretty well. Of course the gaps at the bases are not uniform, but it's not half as noticable as the top surfaces being off:
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