GB Chat thread - Hawker Tempest

GB Chat thread - Hawker Tempest

Author
Discussion

Yertis

18,149 posts

268 months

Monday 17th January 2011
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I'm just about to order my paint. I used to know these colours off the top of my head - is this the correct post-1942 palette?

Xtracrylix XA1001
RAF Dark Green BS241

Xtracrylix XA1003
RAF Medium Sea Grey BS637

Xtracrylix XA1004
RAF Dark Sea Grey BS638

Xtracrylix XA1007
RAF Sky BS210

Xtracrylix XA1010
Aircraft Grey/Green Matt BS283

Xtracrylix XA1012
Night Black BS642

Xtracrylix XA1141
White FS17875

Eric Mc

122,303 posts

267 months

Monday 17th January 2011
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The upper surface grey should be RAF Ocean Grey - which is XA1006 in the Xtracrylix range

Yertis

18,149 posts

268 months

Monday 17th January 2011
quotequote all
Thanks Eric!

Eric Mc

122,303 posts

267 months

Monday 17th January 2011
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It's amazing what one forgets. I had taken a break from kit building up until I came back to the hobby about 5 years ago. The first model I built after my "comeback" was the Airfix Meteor MkIII. I too forgot about "Ocean Grey" and painted the upper surface Medium Sea Grey - which is a post war shade. My Meteor therefore looks wrong.

Mr. Potato Head

1,150 posts

221 months

Monday 17th January 2011
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Wanted to do something a little different, so had a nose around the web ordered this decal set.

pacman1

7,322 posts

195 months

Monday 17th January 2011
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I saw that, 3 Sqn, late 40's, but decided against it because I couldn't find many aftermarket decals. I have my eye on some from Hannants at the mo.
Might I ask where you sourced your decals from, MrPH? smile

Mr. Potato Head

1,150 posts

221 months

Monday 17th January 2011
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Freightdog decals from Hannants.

pacman1

7,322 posts

195 months

Monday 17th January 2011
quotequote all
Mr. Potato Head said:
Freightdog decals from Hannants.
Thanks, I wasn't being particularly efficient with the search function on their site. There are actually LOADS of suitable decals to choose from!

Curry Burns

5,620 posts

217 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
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What's the best way to do decals...I've never done them successfully before and will be having a go with them on my Typhoon this evening.

I think it's look smart, no where near the quality of most on here, but a good second attempt in my eyes hehe

pacman1

7,322 posts

195 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
quotequote all
Curry Burns said:
What's the best way to do decals...I've never done them successfully before and will be having a go with them on my Typhoon this evening.

I think it's look smart, no where near the quality of most on here, but a good second attempt in my eyes hehe
Cut out the ones you want to use and float them off in a saucer of warm water was how I used to do it and handle with tweezers. But don't put the entire sheet of decals all in at once, it gets a bit messy! Once positioned, dap dry with tissue paper.

Curry Burns

5,620 posts

217 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
quotequote all
pacman1 said:
Curry Burns said:
What's the best way to do decals...I've never done them successfully before and will be having a go with them on my Typhoon this evening.

I think it's look smart, no where near the quality of most on here, but a good second attempt in my eyes hehe
Cut out the ones you want to use and float them off in a saucer of warm water was how I used to do it and handle with tweezers. But don't put the entire sheet of decals all in at once, it gets a bit messy! Once positioned, dap dry with tissue paper.
Thanks, just picked up a Humbrol tool kit that includes a scalpel and flat nosed tweezers...should be ideal I think!

Eric Mc

122,303 posts

267 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
quotequote all
I never let them float off.

Cut out the decal you want - I use a small sharp nail scissors - and dip the decal in the water for about 20 to 30 seconds. Take the decal out of the water uising a tweezers and place it on a piece of kitchen paper.

Wet the area where you want to place the decal on the model with some water using a medium sized paint brush.

By now, the decal should be able to slide around on its backing paper. Using a tweezers, hold the decal near to the position on the model where you want it to end up. Push the decal off the backing sheet onto the model using a brush. The decal should be able to slide around on the film of water on the model.

Once you are satisfied that the decal is in the correct position, press it into place using some kitchen paper.

If you want to, you can use a decal softener and a decal setting solution e.g. Microsol or Microset but they aren't essential in most cases.

It is often worthwhile "wetting" the water by adding a small drop (and I mean small) of washing up liquid to the water. This eliminates any surface tension in the water.

Edited by Eric Mc on Tuesday 18th January 14:33

Yertis

18,149 posts

268 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
quotequote all
Eric Mc said:
If you want to, you can use a decal softener and a decal setting solution e.g. Microsol or Microset but they aren't essential in most cases.
Are those not two different things? I remember one of them you brush on to where the decal is supposed to go, and the other on top of the decal to enable it to conform to the aircraft. I can't remember which was which, but I know they made the decal film nearly invisible and are yet another thing I'll now need to buy rolleyeshehe

dr_gn

16,199 posts

186 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
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Yertis said:
Eric Mc said:
If you want to, you can use a decal softener and a decal setting solution e.g. Microsol or Microset but they aren't essential in most cases.
Are those not two different things? I remember one of them you brush on to where the decal is supposed to go, and the other on top of the decal to enable it to conform to the aircraft. I can't remember which was which, but I know they made the decal film nearly invisible and are yet another thing I'll now need to buy rolleyeshehe
Microset is a wettng agent applied first, then Microsol (softener). I don't usually bother with Microset.

It's always best to apply decals onto a gloss surface, then overspray with whatever lacquer you want.

Yertis

18,149 posts

268 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
quotequote all
Can I ask another question? What is the recommended thinner for Xtracrylic paint, and should I also use that to clean the airbrush?

Red Firecracker

5,279 posts

229 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
quotequote all
Handy tip for decals, put a sponge into your warm water and sit the decals onto the sponge. Easier than trying to chase them around a saucer of water and you tend to get a more even soak. Also reduces the amount of water transferred onto the model.

A drop of Klear works as well as Eric's suggestion of washing up liquid, also helps reduce the silvering evident on some decals.

Edited by Red Firecracker on Tuesday 18th January 16:20

Eric Mc

122,303 posts

267 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
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I use the Xtracrylix bespoke thinner which also works on Tamiya acrylic paint.

Curry Burns

5,620 posts

217 months

Wednesday 19th January 2011
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BALLS!!

Doing the decals last night and one of the side ones, the lettering, has folded under....unfortunately I got annoyed with it and it's now dried.

Is the only way to fix it now is to paint the lettering on...or is there another way?

Eric Mc

122,303 posts

267 months

Wednesday 19th January 2011
quotequote all
Aftermarket set?

Is it stuck to the model?

Edited by Eric Mc on Wednesday 19th January 10:35

Curry Burns

5,620 posts

217 months

Wednesday 19th January 2011
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Standard decals with set (Starter Set)....and yes it's stuck to the model....

bloody amateur I am!!!