GB Chat thread - Hawker Tempest
Discussion
I'm just about to order my paint. I used to know these colours off the top of my head - is this the correct post-1942 palette?
Xtracrylix XA1001
RAF Dark Green BS241
Xtracrylix XA1003
RAF Medium Sea Grey BS637
Xtracrylix XA1004
RAF Dark Sea Grey BS638
Xtracrylix XA1007
RAF Sky BS210
Xtracrylix XA1010
Aircraft Grey/Green Matt BS283
Xtracrylix XA1012
Night Black BS642
Xtracrylix XA1141
White FS17875
Xtracrylix XA1001
RAF Dark Green BS241
Xtracrylix XA1003
RAF Medium Sea Grey BS637
Xtracrylix XA1004
RAF Dark Sea Grey BS638
Xtracrylix XA1007
RAF Sky BS210
Xtracrylix XA1010
Aircraft Grey/Green Matt BS283
Xtracrylix XA1012
Night Black BS642
Xtracrylix XA1141
White FS17875
It's amazing what one forgets. I had taken a break from kit building up until I came back to the hobby about 5 years ago. The first model I built after my "comeback" was the Airfix Meteor MkIII. I too forgot about "Ocean Grey" and painted the upper surface Medium Sea Grey - which is a post war shade. My Meteor therefore looks wrong.
Curry Burns said:
What's the best way to do decals...I've never done them successfully before and will be having a go with them on my Typhoon this evening.
I think it's look smart, no where near the quality of most on here, but a good second attempt in my eyes
Cut out the ones you want to use and float them off in a saucer of warm water was how I used to do it and handle with tweezers. But don't put the entire sheet of decals all in at once, it gets a bit messy! Once positioned, dap dry with tissue paper.I think it's look smart, no where near the quality of most on here, but a good second attempt in my eyes
pacman1 said:
Curry Burns said:
What's the best way to do decals...I've never done them successfully before and will be having a go with them on my Typhoon this evening.
I think it's look smart, no where near the quality of most on here, but a good second attempt in my eyes
Cut out the ones you want to use and float them off in a saucer of warm water was how I used to do it and handle with tweezers. But don't put the entire sheet of decals all in at once, it gets a bit messy! Once positioned, dap dry with tissue paper.I think it's look smart, no where near the quality of most on here, but a good second attempt in my eyes
I never let them float off.
Cut out the decal you want - I use a small sharp nail scissors - and dip the decal in the water for about 20 to 30 seconds. Take the decal out of the water uising a tweezers and place it on a piece of kitchen paper.
Wet the area where you want to place the decal on the model with some water using a medium sized paint brush.
By now, the decal should be able to slide around on its backing paper. Using a tweezers, hold the decal near to the position on the model where you want it to end up. Push the decal off the backing sheet onto the model using a brush. The decal should be able to slide around on the film of water on the model.
Once you are satisfied that the decal is in the correct position, press it into place using some kitchen paper.
If you want to, you can use a decal softener and a decal setting solution e.g. Microsol or Microset but they aren't essential in most cases.
It is often worthwhile "wetting" the water by adding a small drop (and I mean small) of washing up liquid to the water. This eliminates any surface tension in the water.
Cut out the decal you want - I use a small sharp nail scissors - and dip the decal in the water for about 20 to 30 seconds. Take the decal out of the water uising a tweezers and place it on a piece of kitchen paper.
Wet the area where you want to place the decal on the model with some water using a medium sized paint brush.
By now, the decal should be able to slide around on its backing paper. Using a tweezers, hold the decal near to the position on the model where you want it to end up. Push the decal off the backing sheet onto the model using a brush. The decal should be able to slide around on the film of water on the model.
Once you are satisfied that the decal is in the correct position, press it into place using some kitchen paper.
If you want to, you can use a decal softener and a decal setting solution e.g. Microsol or Microset but they aren't essential in most cases.
It is often worthwhile "wetting" the water by adding a small drop (and I mean small) of washing up liquid to the water. This eliminates any surface tension in the water.
Edited by Eric Mc on Tuesday 18th January 14:33
Eric Mc said:
If you want to, you can use a decal softener and a decal setting solution e.g. Microsol or Microset but they aren't essential in most cases.
Are those not two different things? I remember one of them you brush on to where the decal is supposed to go, and the other on top of the decal to enable it to conform to the aircraft. I can't remember which was which, but I know they made the decal film nearly invisible and are yet another thing I'll now need to buy Yertis said:
Eric Mc said:
If you want to, you can use a decal softener and a decal setting solution e.g. Microsol or Microset but they aren't essential in most cases.
Are those not two different things? I remember one of them you brush on to where the decal is supposed to go, and the other on top of the decal to enable it to conform to the aircraft. I can't remember which was which, but I know they made the decal film nearly invisible and are yet another thing I'll now need to buy It's always best to apply decals onto a gloss surface, then overspray with whatever lacquer you want.
Handy tip for decals, put a sponge into your warm water and sit the decals onto the sponge. Easier than trying to chase them around a saucer of water and you tend to get a more even soak. Also reduces the amount of water transferred onto the model.
A drop of Klear works as well as Eric's suggestion of washing up liquid, also helps reduce the silvering evident on some decals.
A drop of Klear works as well as Eric's suggestion of washing up liquid, also helps reduce the silvering evident on some decals.
Edited by Red Firecracker on Tuesday 18th January 16:20
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